• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.353-359
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• 2018

In this study, fused deposition modellig(FDM) 3D printing technology has been applied directly to polyester voil fabric to produce 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics. A stereolithograpy(STL) file with a lace type 3D modelling under the various thickness were prepared and transformed into a g-code file using a g-code generator. The extrusion conditions for FDM 3D printing were controlled by 50mm/s of nozzle speed, $235^{\circ}C$ of nozzle temperature, $40^{\circ}C$ of heating bed temperature. 3D printed lace/voil composite fabriscs manufactured by 3D printing based on FDM using a thermoplactic polyurethane(TPU) filaments were obtained. To evaluate the mechanical properties and washability of the fabricated 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric, KES-FB system test, washing fastness test and dry cleaning resistance test were conducted. As 3D printing thickness increased, KOSHI, NUMERI, and FUKURAMI of 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric increased. From the results of the primary hand value test, 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics were confirmed to be applicable to women's summer garments. As a result of the washability and dry cleaning resistance test of the 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics, all samples were graded 4-5.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.561-570
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• 2018

This study defined the changes of mechanical properties of silk fabric according to bias angles and investigated the influence of bias angles and fabric characteristics on hand value. For the experiments, 4 types of commercial silk plain weave fabrics were chosen. All fabrics had the same density, but different yarn characteristics. Fabric samples were cut into 12 different bias angles between $0^{\circ}$ and $165^{\circ}$ with $15^{\circ}$ gap and measured for tensile, shear, bending, surface properties by the KES-FB system. As a result, most mechanical parameters showed an asymmetry shape with $90^{\circ}$. The most flexible and easiest angles are $45^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$. Furthermore, the bias angles of silk fabrics were classified into three clusters with mechanical properties such as WT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, and SMD. The parameters according to fabric samples showed significant differences at WT, RT, B, 2HB, and MIU. It showed bigger effects as yarn fineness; in addition, twists were higher except RT. The results of hand value indicated that Koshi and Hari were highest with a bias angle of $75^{\circ}$; however, Shinayakasa was highest at bias angle of $45^{\circ}$. Finally, Shari was lowest at $45^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.620-629
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• 2013

This study examines the rustling sound characteristics of electrospun nanofiber web laminates according to layer structures. This study assesses mechanical properties and frictional sounds (such as SPL); in addition, Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters (such as Loudness (Z), Sharpness (Z), Roughness (Z), and Fluctuation strength (Z)) were calculated using the Sound Quality Program (ver.3.2, B&K, Denmark). The result determined how to control these characteristics and minimize rustling sounds. A total of 3 specimens' frictional sound (generated at 0.63 m/s) was recorded using a Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics (Korea Patent No. 10-2008-0105524) and SPLs were analyzed with a Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured with a KES-FB system. The SPL value of the sound spectrum showed 6.84~58.47dB at 0~17,500Hz. The SPL value was 61.2dB for the 2-layer PU nanofiber web laminates layered on densely woven PET(C1) and was the highest at 65.1dB for the 3-layer PU nanofiber web laminates (C3). Based on SPSS 18.0, it was shown that there is a correlation between mechanical properties and psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile properties (LT), weight (T), and bending properties (2HB) showed a high correlation with psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile linearity (LT) with Loudness (Z) showed a negative correlation coefficient; however, weight (T) with Sharpness (Z) and Roughness (Z), and bending hysteresis (2HB) with Roughness (Z) indicated positive correlation coefficients, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.1 s.29
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• pp.79-87
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• 1989

In the part 1 and 2, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer and fall & winter fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes were measured by KES-F system. The experimental results are statistically analyzed in the aspects of the mechanical properties, their effects on the hand values, formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior. The correlation in the hand values are analyzed, too. Furthermore, there mechanical properties are discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows: 1. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes have box-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity and shear elasticity. 2. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are inferior to silk fabrics, superior to polyester fabrics in formation. 3. A drapability and wrinkle recovery of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes formation for weared clothes are inferior to polyester fabrics, superior to silk fabrics. 4. A primary factor of mechanical properties contribute to the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are same as the Korean women's winter fabrics, except for flexibility with soft feeling. 5. As for the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are superior to those of polyester fabrics. And also, flexibility with soft feeling, scrooping feeling of core-spun yarn woven fabrics have greater values as compared with silk fabrics for Korean folk clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.257-266
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• 1998

This study was conducted to examine the changes of the mechanical properties of the position in jean slacks during the wear, previously used for the wearing test, which were subjected to repeated tensile-shearing deformation using a simulated fatigue tester has been investigated and compared, by calculating both mechanical properties and hand value(HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and the by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows. 1. The fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties was the LT, 2H B, 2HBS, MMD, SMD, RC values increased, elasticity values of tensile, bending and shearing properties, such as B, G and compression properties LC, WC were reduced. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 2. The hand value and THV; except anterior knee from all part of KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI was decreased. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value was different on the position of clothing; on the position of hip, rate of B, G smaller than other parts and KOSHI was decreased, on the part of anterior thigh was FUKURAMI was increased, on the anterior knee RC, NUMERI, THV was increased, on the posterior knee was 2HB, 2HG, 2HGS showed increasedgreater than any other part and on the hem of back, MMD was increased, but NUMERI was decreased. 4. The changing process of mechanical properties in the simulation testing by the fatigue tester has similar tendency to that of the wearing tester. It is concluded that this testing method is useful to predict the fatigue phenomena of fabrics caused by wearing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.870-879
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• 2006

In this study, the difference in the mechanical properties of silver and cotton weft knitted fabrics was studied. Six silver fabrics for the summer ladies' knit outwear were knitted varying knit structure and fabric density. Two commercial cotton knitted fabrics were selected to compare the properties. subjective sensation of hand of the fabrics was also studied. Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(THV) was carried out according to the KW-304 Summer. The result of the research show that silver weft knitted fabrics had lower LT, RT, G, 2HG and higher EM, W, LC, WC, RC than cotton weft knitted fabrics. The use of silver yam contributed to increase in surface roughness of knitted fabrics. As the silver knitted fabrics became thicker compressional energy increased. The use of silver yarns contributed to much better fabric handle compared with the use of cotton yam only. It appeared that coefficient of friction of tuck stitch was larger than that of plain and interlock stitch. KOSHI and FUKURAMI values of the tuck samples were significantly higher than those values of the plain and interlock samples, while SHARI values were low in general. The total hand value of tuck stitch was higher than those of interlock and plain stitch.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.486-491
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• 2012

This study examined the sound characteristics of Taekwondo uniform fabrics to investigate the relationship between the sound parameters and the mechanical properties of the fabric as well as to provide the conditions to maximize the frictional sound of the uniform. Frictional sounds of 6 fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms were generated by the Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics. The frictional speeds were controlled at low(0.62 m/s), at mid(1.21 m/s) and at high(2.25 m/s) speed, respectively. The frictional sounds were recorded using a Data Recorder and Sound Quality System subsequently, the physical sound properties such as SPL(Sound Pressure Level) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters were calculated. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB. The SPL, Loudness(Z) values increased while Sharpness(Z) value decreased. In the physical sound parameter, specimen E had the highest SPL value at low speed and specimen B at high speed. In case of Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters, the commercially available Taekwondo uniform fabrics(E, F) showed higher values of Loudness(Z), Sharpness(Z), and Roughness(Z), that indicates they can produce louder, shaper and rougher sounds than other fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms. The decisive factors that affected frictional sounds for Taekwondo uniforms were W(weight) as well as EM(elongation at maximum load) at low speed and WC(compressional energy) at high speed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.515-523
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• 1994

This study was accomplished to investigate the mechanical properties and handle according to treatment processes and brushing condition. For this study, grey fabrics of blended ratio of polyester 65% : cotton 35% were bleached and dyed. These fabrics were then brushed 1, 3, 5 and 7 times. The mechanical properties were measured with a KES-F system and the mechanical data were then transformed into hand values by the conversion equation, that is, KN-201-MDY. The results obtained by the analysis are as follows; 1) The variation of mechanical properties was remarkable in the initial brushing of 1∼ 3 cycles for all of grey, bleached and dyed fabrics. The values of RT, 2HB, B, G, 2HGS, MMD and SMD were decreased and MIU, WC and T were increased with the increase of number of brushing . 2) LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HGS, MMD, SMH and W of dyed fabrics which is coincident with the end use showed lower values than those of grey or bleached fabrics, but MIU, WC and T were higher 3) From the variation of hand value, stiffness of dyed fabric showed lower value than that of grey or bleached fabric. On the other hand, smoothness, soft feeling and total hand values of dyed fabric were higher. Especially, dyed fabric showed the highest total value at the 3 cycles of brushing condition.