• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.299-307
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• 2009

The purposes of this study ate to evaluate sensibility performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. The sensibility performances such as sensory, touch preference and buying preference for memory fabrics of the metallic Jacquard fabrics were evaluated, and mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB system. The correlation between the mechanical properties and the sensibility performance were analyzed. As the metal fiber content increased, the sensory evaluation value of lustered, wrinkly, sandy, rustle and stiff increased, the sensory evaluation value of slippery and damp decreased. As the metal fiber content increased, the touch preference decreased and the buying preference increased. The touch preference had negative correlation with the metal fiber content, but the buying preference had positive correlation with it.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.660-666
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• 2004

This article describes the change of hand value of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH) as crosslinkins agent, 2% aqueous acetic acid as a solvent of chitosan and ECH, and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide as a mercerizing agent and crosslinking catalyst. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution, and finally wash and dry. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were investigated using Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. Tensile energy and tensile strain were decreased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. Tensile resilience, compression resilience bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compression linearity, compressional energy, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. On the other hand, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compressional resilience, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of crosslinking agent(epichlorohydrin).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.217-223
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• 1988

This study is to examine the cleaningproof by dry cleaning runs and parts(shoulder, belly, butt) of garment leathers tanned chrome. This study is composed of three methods of test; color difference test, surface view by scanning electron micrographs, mechanical properties measurement by KES-FB system. The results obtained were as follows: 1. In stiffening of parts of sample, the belly is the best degree in smoothness, fullness, softness. But that of the butt have been found to be the worst degree and to be thick. 2. In fading of parts, the shoulder is an extreme case, but the belly is the best among three parts. 3. In dry cleaning runs, the view after 3 runs has been found to be the best result. 4. The stiffening after dry cleaning 1 run have been low grade, for the sample absorb much solvent of dry cleaning. And, the fading and the decoloration are to be worse after 5 runs. Because the leather surface is affected by dry cleaning runs.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.207-216
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• 1988

This study is to examine the cleaningproof by dry cleaning runs and parts(shoulder, belly, butt) of garment leathers tanned chrome. This study is composed of three methods of test; color difference test, surface view by scanning electron micrographs, mechanical properties measurement by KES-FB system. The results obtained were as follows: 1. In stiffening of parts of sample, the belly is the best degree in smoothness, fullness, softness. But that of the butt have been found to be the worst degree and to be thick. 2. In fading of parts, the shoulder is an extreme case, but the belly is the best among three parts. 3. In dry cleaning runs, the view after 3 runs has been found to be the best result. 4. The stiffening after dry cleaning 1 run have been low grade, for the sample absorb much solvent of dry cleaning. And, the fading and the decoloration are to be worse after 5 runs. Because the leather surface is affected by dry cleaning runs.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.15-26
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• 1994

Cotton fabrics were treated with the cellulase which is an enzyme to decompose cellulose and its actional mechanism is known. The optimum condition of the cellulase to the cotton fabrics and the weight losses, tensile strengths of the treated cotton fabrics were also obtained. The cellulase performs a specific catalytic action on the ${\beta}-1$, 4-glucosidic bonds of the cellulose molecules and hydrolyzes them. For that reason, the negative surface charges of the cotton fabrics were increased by additional generation. of hyrdoxyl groups. The increased surface charges cause the decrease of dye adsorption by inhibiting the approach of the anions of direct dyes. But, it was overcome by the use of enough amount of salt, it means that sodium ions of the salt neutralize the almost all of negative charges of the cotton fabrics. The improvement of the water absorbency is also due to the increased hydroxyl groups In addition, their handles including the mechanical properties were measured and caculated by KES system which is a measuring apparatus that numerizes and objectificates human's feeling, especially touch. As the results, we knew that KOSH(stiffness) and FUKURAMI(fulness & softness) were decreased and that NUMERI(smoothness) was increased.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.21-29
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• 2009

In order to enhance the functionality of a cotton fabric actually used as a clothing material for patients, the fabrics were treated with a chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. The nanosilver had excellent biocompatibility, provided expectation of an additional performance, did not harm human beings, and supplements chitosan, which was disadvantaged if used alone for fabric treatment. The nanosilver was mixed thereto and a treatment effect due to a mixing ratio was considered. This study was observed through mechanical properties and hand value which were the important function. The treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution gave a smoother surface than the treatment of chitosan alone. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the cotton fabric was a little smooth to provide elasticity, due to the treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. THV of the treated fabrics calculated from this basis increased at all mixing ratio as compared with the untreated fabric. The fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution were shown a better THV than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.114-123
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• 2014

This research investigated the physical properties of PET coolness filaments and their knitted fabrics including dyeing characteristics of these knitted fabrics according to the different dyeing time and temperature. The coolness filament(S) with non-circular cross-section and hydrophilic property was spun and another commercialized coolness(A) and regular(R) PET filaments were prepared for comparing coolness and another physical properties. Qmax of coolness knitted fabric made with S filament was higher than that of R-PET filament, and the maximum value of Qmax of S knitted fabric was shown at the dyeing conditions of temperature, $110^{\circ}C$ with 30 min. or 40min. It was shown that hand of S knitted fabric was a little harsh comparing to A and regular knit specimens, but shape retention and wearing performance of garment made with S knit specimen were estimated as good owing to high bending and shear rigidity. K/S of S knitted fabric was higher than those of regular PET and A knit specimens. Dyeing fastness of coolness knitted fabric showed between 4th and 5th grade.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.47-55
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• 1985

To determine the change of the mechanical properties of the wool/polyester blend fabrics in proportion to blend ratio, 10 mechanical properties were measured on 6 blend fabrics by KES-F system. Blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics was increased by $20\%$, and the structure of the fabric were plain, 2/2 twill, respectively. And wearing performances in propoetion to blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics were investigated. In this experiment. the following conclusions were obtained with the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 1) The values of WT, RT in tensile properties. tensile energy and elongation, and RC in compressional properties were decreased. 2) The values of B, 2HB in bending properties, 2HG. 2HG 5 in shearing properties were increased. 3) Putting on clothes, wearing performance was bad because crumbling of shape and wrinkle were easily made an appearance. Particularly it was remarkably bad as blend ratio of polyester was expressed $60\%$.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.39-45
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• 2006

The aim of this work is to develop sense-differentiated textiles using Thick-Thin polyester yarn(T-T yarn) with finer than 1 denier mono filament. The ITY(Interlace Textured Yarn) using T-T yarn with various over feed ratios of PET filament was manufactured with different shrinking percentage of core yarn and then the fabrics were woven on the same weaving 100m using ITY produced. The mechanical properties and the handles of the fabrics were examined with KES-FB system suggested by Kawabata. The shrinkage of ITY was increased with decreasing over feed ratio and increased with increasing heat treatment temperature of T-T yarn. The initial elasticity modulus of ITY was decreased with increasing over feed ratio and heat treatment temperature of T-T yarn. The tensile energy of fabrics was decreased with increasing of over feed ratio, but bending rigidity and shear rigidity of fabrics were increased with increasing of over feed ratio of PET filament. The results indicate that the fabric using T-T yarn with finer than I denier mono filament can be used for the purpose of sense-differentiated textile.

• 감성과학
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2000

한·미 문화간 비교를 통하여 직물의 소리와 촉감이 주관적 감각에 미치는 영향을 고찰하고자 한국인과 미국인 각각 30명을 대상으로 의미분별척도에 의하여 서로 다른 8개 직물 소리의 주관적 감각(부드러움, 시끄러움, 유쾌함, 날카로움, 맑음, 거친, 높음)과 촉감의 주관적 감각 (딱딱함, 매끄러움, 성김, 시원함, 유연함, 까실거림, 무게, 두께)을 측정하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터로 LPT(level pressure of total sound)와 Δf (frequency differences)를 계산하고, KES (Kawabata Evaluation System)을 이용하여 직물의 역학적 성질을 측정하였다. 직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’의 점수가 높고 ‘시끄러움’과 ‘날카로움’, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮은 직물들이 주관적으로 유쾌하게 느껴지는 것으로 나타났다. 직물에 따른 소리의 시끄러움과 날카로움, 높음에 대한 주관적 감각은 한·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였으나, 한국인은 미국인보다 모직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’과 ‘유쾌함’의 점수가 높고, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮았으며, ‘맑음’에 대한 직물별 점수가 다양하였다. 직물의 촉감은 직물에 따른 차이가 더 다양하게 나타났다. ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’의 직물 별 감각은 한 ·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였는데, 한국인은 대체로 미국인보다 ‘성금’과 ‘까실거림’을 낮게, ‘시원함’을 높게 평가하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터인 LPT와 ΔL이 양국인의 소리 감각에 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 감각은 주로 LPT가, 미국인의 감각은 LPT와 ΔL이 함께 영향을 미치는 회귀식이 성립하였다. 촉감에서 ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’, ‘유연함’, ‘까실거림’에 한·미 모두 표면 거칠기가 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 촉감에 대한 회귀식이 더 많이 성립하였고 R2가 높게 나타났다.