• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1999.11a
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• pp.157-161
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• 1999

본 연구에서 직물의 열, 수분 전달특성과 KES-FB의 역학적 특성치, 직물표면의 fractal dimension을 측정하여 주관적 의복 착용 쾌적감을 예측하고자 하였다. 실험의복에 사용된 직물은 면 100% 평직물, 면/PET 혼방직물, 피치가공된 면/PET 혼방직물, PET 100% 평직물, 알칼리 감량가공된 PET 100% 크레이프 직물이었으며, 실험의복의 형태는 긴 소매 셔츠로 하였다. 착용실험은 온도 29$\pm$0.5$^{\circ}C$, 상대습도 75$\pm$2%RH, 기류 0.15m/s를 유지하는 항온항습실에서 실시하였고 36명의 여성 피험자(20-23세)들이 참여하였다. 의복 착용감의 하위 구성차원을 파악하기 위해 실험결과를 요인분석한 결과 5 개의 요인으로 추출되었다. 제 1 요인은 체온상승, 수분특성과 관련이 있는 온열.발한감이었으며, 제 2 요인은 무게ㆍ두께감, 제 3 요인은 회복특성감, 제 4 요인은 표면접촉감, 제 5 요인은 온냉감으로 구성되었다. 직물의 표면특성을 정량화하는 방법으로 도입한 fractal dimension 의 분석값들과 종래의 가장 보편적으로 이용되어 온 KES_FB 의 표면 특성치들이 주관적 착용쾌적감 예측에 얼마나 기여하는지 비교해 본 결과, 표면접촉감은 fractal dimension, 접촉점들의 총면적, 접촉점들의 평균 axis ratio, MMD, SMD와 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 또한 종합적 착용쾌적감에 대해서는 SMD 를 제외한 척도들이 유의한 상관을 보였으며, 그 중에서도 fractal dimension 과 접촉점들의 총면적은 0.8 이상의 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 착용쾌적감을 예측하기 위한 회귀분석결과에서는 fractal dimension 만으로 쾌적감의 74%가 설명되었으며 공기 투과도를 첨가하면 두 변수로 $R^2$=.792가 되었다. 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.tosterone농도는 107.7$\pm$12.0 pmol／l이었고, 남성의 타액내 농도는 274.2$\pm$22.1 pmol／l이었다. 이상의 결과로 보아 본 연구에서 정립된 EIA 방법은 RIA를 대신하여 소규모의 실험실에서도 활용할 수 있을 것으로 사려된다.또한 상실기 이후 배아에서 합성되며, 발생시기에 따라 그 영향이 다르고 팽창과 부화에 관여하는 것으로 사료된다. 더욱이, 조선의 ${\ulcorner}$구성교육${\lrcorner}$이 조선총독부의 관리하에서 실행되었다는 것을, 당시의 사범학교를 중심으로 한 교육조직을 기술한 문헌에 의해 규명시켰다.nd of letter design which represents -natural objects and was popular at the time of Yukjo Dynasty, and there are some documents of that period left both in Japan and Korea. "Hyojedo" in Korea is supposed to have been influenced by the letter design. Asite- is also considered to have been "Japanese Letter Jobcheso." Therefore, the purpose of this study is to look into the origin of the letter designs in t

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.102-102
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• 2011

레이온 섬유는 dry한 촉감, 고광택, 드레이프성 등 의류 분야에서 요구하는 많은 장점들을 가지고 있으나 타 섬유 소재에 비해 소비량이 적은 것은 합섬이나 면/울 제품에 비해 상대적으로 제품 가격이 높고, 형태안정성이 취약하여 정장 및 캐주얼의 겉감 용도로 쓰기에는 성능 보완이 필요하다. 또한 염색가공 공정에서 구김발생이 많으며, 열고정이 쉽게 이루어지지 않아 습윤강도와 탄성 회복률이 낮아 변형이 쉽게 발생된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 합섬의 장점을 그대로 유지하면서 레이온 섬유가 갖는 고비중과 우수한 드레이프성과 유연한 질감으로 소프트 터치를 발현하는 특수한 레이온 대체 소재를 실현하고자 하였다. 직물에서 드레이프성과 은은한 광택을 확보하기 위해서는 폴리머단계에서 비중과 광택을 발현할 수 있는 무기입자 중 비중이 높고, 중합 후 폴리머 내에서 광택을 유지하는 입자의 선택이 필요한데 본 실험에서는 $BaSO_4$를 이용하여 PET dope액과 중합한 후 용융 방사하여 고비중 폴리에스테르사(100/48)를 제조하였다. 고비중 폴리에스테르사를 이용하여 폭 58inch, 밀도 92T, 중량 324.8g/yd 직물로 제직하여 그에 따른 태를 측정하였다. 태측정기(KES-FB, KATO TECH CO)를 이용하여 인장 & 전단강도, 굽힘강도, 압축강도, 표면측정 시험 결과 $BaSO_4$ 2% 첨가한 원단의 드레이프성이 우수한 것을 확인할 수 있었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.605-615
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• 2000

This study was carried out to investigate sound characteristics including sound parameters and subjective sensation, and primary hand values related with sound of fabrics for blouse, and furthermore to predict subjective sound sensation with mechanical properties and sound parameters. Sound of specimens was analyzed by FFT. Level pressure of total sound(LPT), loudness(Z), coefficients of autoregressive(AR) functions for fitting the spectra, and sound color factors(ΔL and Δf) were obtained as sound parameters. Primary hand values for women's thin dress were calculated by using KES-FB. Subjective sensation for sound including softness, loudness, sharpness, clearness, roughness, highness, and pleasantness was evaluated by free modulus magnitude estimation. The results were as follows; 1. Fabrics for blouse showed similar spectral shapes to one another in that amplitude values were lower in most ranges of frequencies than fabrics for other uses. 2. It was found that fabrics for blouse were less louder because LPT, loudness(Z), and ARC values were lower than other fabrics. 3. Primary hand values indicated that specimens were soft-touched, flexible, and less crisp. Among primary hands related with sound, Shari values were higher for silk fabrics than for synthetic ones, while the values for Kishimi were similar, 4. Fabrics for blouse were rated more highly for softness, clearness, and pleasantness than for loudness, sharpness. roughness, and highness. Silk fabrics were evaluated more pleasant than synthetic fabrics. 5. Subjective sensation for sound of blouse fabrics were predicted with mechanical properties and physical sound parameters.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.79-93
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of dynamic characteristics of knitted fabrics on the clothing pressure of foundation. Five knitted fabrics of foundation were selected by different fiber types and blended ratios for the study. The dynamic characteristics of foundation wears made with five different fabrics were measured by KES-FB system method. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The tensile linearity and resilience of f1 were lower than those of other samples. While the tensile resistances of f1, f2 and f4 samples were high, the coefficients of friction of them were low. The bending rigidity and geometric roughness of f5 were higher than the others. 2. The clothing pressure of f3 all-in-one sample was the highest, and followed by f5, f4, f2 and f1, respectively. This result showed that the compression resilience affected on the clothing pressure greatly. 3. In terms of the clothing pressure by posture, the clothing pressure at $90^{\circ}$ bending posture was the highest and followed by that at standing and one-leg-up, respectively. The back part of abdomen was pressured most at $90^{\circ}$ bending posture.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.33-45
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• 2000

The handle were observed by objective and subjective method as the washing was repeated for 4 kinds(sample A, B, C, D) of materials which have different water vapor transmission, and the change of water vapor transmission each others. The results of factor analyses for 18 polar adjective words on subjective handle test yielded 4 factors, that were 'elastic property', 'surface property', 'thickness and weight property' and 'thermal and rigid property'. The surface properties were deteriorated remarkably as washing was repeated and significant difference were observed. Compared with the primary hand value for each materials, the statistical difference of samples was shown at Koshi and Fukurami measured by the KES-FB system. Koshi decreased for all the materials after repeated washing, and Fukurami had a tendency to increase for all the materials in proportion to repeated washing. Significant difference of total hand value wasn't shown in repeated washing number, but in fabric types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.800-808
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• 1999

The demand for PU coated synthetic leather is increasing as a high fashion material. But it has some faults of water vapor permeability surface tacky property and static electricity. Therefore the purpose of this study was the produce of PU coated fabric added collagen with hydrophilic property and soft touch. In the PU coated fabric water vapor permeability water vaper absorption and frictional electronic voltage were investigated surface bending and compression properties were also examined by the use of KES-FB System. The followings were the results of this study. 1. There was no Cr in the collagen so that Cr was not treated in the collagen. 2. The surface and cross sectional layer of PU coated fabric with collagen were highly developed by micro porous structure. 3. The water vapor permeability of PU coated fabric was increased as collagen concentration increased. 4. The water vapor absorption of PU coated fabric was increased as collagen concentration increased. 5. The frictional electronic voltage of PU coated fabric was decreased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration. Especially it effectively decreased by the use of only 5% collagen concentration. 6,. The bending and compression properties of PU coated fabric were increased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration so that it became stiff. 7. The Value of MIU, SMD was decreased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration so that the PU coated fabric became smooth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.152-159
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• 2002

Neural networks are used to predict the sense of touch of polyurethane coated fabrics. In this study, we used the multi layer perceptron (MLP) neural networks in Neural Connection. The learning algorithm for neural networks is back-propagation algorithm. We used 29 polyurethane coated fabrics to train the neural networks and 4 samples to test the neural networks. Input variables are 17 mechanical properties measured with KES-FB system, and output variable is the sense of touch of polyurethane coated fabrics. The influence of MLF function, the number of hidden layers, and the number of hidden nodes on the prediction accuracy is investigated. The results were as follows: MLP function, the number of hidden layer and the number of hidden nodes have some influence on the prediction accuracy. In this work, tangent function, the architecture of the double hidden layers and the 24-12-hidden nodes has the best prediction accuracy with the lowest RMS error. Using the neural networks to predict the sense of touch of polyurethane coated fabrics has hotter prediction accuracy than regression approach used in our previous study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.217-223
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• 1988

This study is to examine the cleaningproof by dry cleaning runs and parts(shoulder, belly, butt) of garment leathers tanned chrome. This study is composed of three methods of test; color difference test, surface view by scanning electron micrographs, mechanical properties measurement by KES-FB system. The results obtained were as follows: 1. In stiffening of parts of sample, the belly is the best degree in smoothness, fullness, softness. But that of the butt have been found to be the worst degree and to be thick. 2. In fading of parts, the shoulder is an extreme case, but the belly is the best among three parts. 3. In dry cleaning runs, the view after 3 runs has been found to be the best result. 4. The stiffening after dry cleaning 1 run have been low grade, for the sample absorb much solvent of dry cleaning. And, the fading and the decoloration are to be worse after 5 runs. Because the leather surface is affected by dry cleaning runs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.207-216
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• 1988

This study is to examine the cleaningproof by dry cleaning runs and parts(shoulder, belly, butt) of garment leathers tanned chrome. This study is composed of three methods of test; color difference test, surface view by scanning electron micrographs, mechanical properties measurement by KES-FB system. The results obtained were as follows: 1. In stiffening of parts of sample, the belly is the best degree in smoothness, fullness, softness. But that of the butt have been found to be the worst degree and to be thick. 2. In fading of parts, the shoulder is an extreme case, but the belly is the best among three parts. 3. In dry cleaning runs, the view after 3 runs has been found to be the best result. 4. The stiffening after dry cleaning 1 run have been low grade, for the sample absorb much solvent of dry cleaning. And, the fading and the decoloration are to be worse after 5 runs. Because the leather surface is affected by dry cleaning runs.