• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.486-491
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• 2012

This study examined the sound characteristics of Taekwondo uniform fabrics to investigate the relationship between the sound parameters and the mechanical properties of the fabric as well as to provide the conditions to maximize the frictional sound of the uniform. Frictional sounds of 6 fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms were generated by the Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics. The frictional speeds were controlled at low(0.62 m/s), at mid(1.21 m/s) and at high(2.25 m/s) speed, respectively. The frictional sounds were recorded using a Data Recorder and Sound Quality System subsequently, the physical sound properties such as SPL(Sound Pressure Level) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters were calculated. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB. The SPL, Loudness(Z) values increased while Sharpness(Z) value decreased. In the physical sound parameter, specimen E had the highest SPL value at low speed and specimen B at high speed. In case of Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters, the commercially available Taekwondo uniform fabrics(E, F) showed higher values of Loudness(Z), Sharpness(Z), and Roughness(Z), that indicates they can produce louder, shaper and rougher sounds than other fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms. The decisive factors that affected frictional sounds for Taekwondo uniforms were W(weight) as well as EM(elongation at maximum load) at low speed and WC(compressional energy) at high speed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.157-169
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• 1996

Polyester yarns and fabrics containing three levels of $TiO_2$ delusterant were hydrolyzed with NaOH and examined for physical and morphological changes. The mechanical propertis and hand values of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics were measured using KES-FB system. Also, the relationship between the morphology and the mechanical property of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics was analyzed. The results are as follows: 1. At an initial stage of alkaline treatment, the concentration of $TiO_2$ did not affect the weight loss of the treated yarns. But by increasing treatment time, the effect of the concentration of $TiO_2$ on the weight loss of the fiber became more pronounced. The weight loss were increased in the following order; fulldull> semidull> clear 2. The effect of hydrolysis on yarn tensile strength seems to be more related to the size of the pits on the fibers rather than the number of pits. 3. Axially oriented pits occurred along the hydroyzed, delustered fiber surfaces, while such pitting was absent on hydrolyzed fiber containing no $TiO_2$. The number of voids across the surface of a fiber increased with an increase in the amount of TiOa incorporated into the fibers. The size of the voids depended on the treatment time of hydrolysis rather than the concentration of TiOa. 4. The mechanical properties and hand values of polyester fabrics were changed by alkaline treatment but were identical regardless of the concentration of TiOa. While the mechanical properties of polyester fabrics depended on the structural change of the fibers and the yarns within the fabrics as the fiber diameter became progressively smaller rather than the size and number of pits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.968-981
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.117-128
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to clarify the effects of constituent characteristics and the mechanical properties by KES-FB system on the visual texture images and preference of men's suit fabrics. Twenty different kinds of black fabrics, which were used mainly for the spring and summer men's suits, were selected and the subjective evaluation of the visual texture images was tested. Sixty experts in department of clothing and apparel industries participated in the subjective evaluation. Factor analysis showed visual texture images were classified into 4 categories : 'bulkiness', $'extensibility{\cdot}rapability'$, 'flexibility' and 'smoothness'. All of relationships were established between the mechanical properties and the visual texture images except the relation between 'flexibility' and bending properties. The significant factors affecting preference were 'smoothness', compression energy(WC), fabric count and 'flexibility', As the fabrics had higher value for 'smoothness' and 'flexibility' , and lower ones for compression energy and fabric count, they tended to be more preferred.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.309-315
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• 2013

This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.676-682
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• 2010

Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.237-248
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to compare the comfort sensation depending on four different kinds of denim blue jeans: cotton, cotton/tencel, tencel, cotton/pp. The objective and subjective experiments were conducted to measure the comfort of blue jeans. To investigate the objective comfort, physical properties related to thermal insulation, moisture properties and hand were measured. For subjective comfort measurement, 5 healthy female college students were taken as subjects. The outcomes of the experiments are as follows: The higher the air permeability and bulk density of the denim, the lower the thermal insulation, the thicker the denim, the higher the thermal insulation. Tencel blending denim showed the higher bulk density, the lower air contents, and consequently the lower thermal insulation than the other denims. Tencel showed the highest moisture regain, and cotton/tencel blend showed the highest water vapor permeability. Tencel denim had relatively better flexibility, shape stability and elastic recovery than the other denims. The total hand values of the denims by KES-FB system were not significantly different. Cotton and cotton/pp denims raised the subjects body temperature after excercise more than tencel or cotton/tencel denims. Average skin temperature was found to have a correlation with micro climate temperature and micro climate humidity. The correlation coefficients were 0.749 and 0.767, respectively. However, average skin temperatures were not significantly different among the materials. Pulse rate was found to be the highest when wearing cotton/pp and the lowest in case of cotton/tencel denim. The energy was consumed in order of cotton>cotton/pp>tencel>cotton/tencel. There was no significant difference in preference before excercise, but, after the excercise, the order of preference changed as the following; cotton/tencel>tencel>cotton/pp>cotton.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.77-86
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• 2009

A comfort evaluation of car seat clothing has been proposed for high comforts interior seat clothing. Car seat covers have received wide spread attention due to their man-machine interface working. And then, it will be necessary for measurements on delicate basic mechanical-properties, which closely relate with human touch feeling of its materials. In this research, we have utilized $KES-FB^{(R)}$(Kawabata Evaluation System) series, $^ST300{(R)}$ analogue softness tester and friction tester for measurement a physical properties. In order to consider both kansei and physical properties on interior seat covers, we firstly have established subjective words of judgement for the seat covers. Secondly, related them to the objective measurement of physical properties. Each kansei-language has clearly defined as 'Softness', 'Elasticity', 'Volume' and 'Stickiness' for the adjectives of leather car seat covers. These technical terms have correlated to physical properties in other words, h (mm), bending moment ($gf^*$cm/cm), To-Tm (mm) and ${\mu}$. At this time, fuzzy logic has utilized to predict the value of kansei language through physical values. On the basis of this result, finally it is possible to predict quality index of car seat covers using neural networks technique. In short, we develop a quality evaluation system of car seat clothing combining four physical quantities with kansei engineering.