• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.153-161
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• 2007

In 2004, Mal-gun(抹裙) was excavated from a plastered tomb in Seok-nam-dong, In-cheon. This tomb is assumed to be from an upper-class woman. The excavated Mal-gun was used to fill in the empty spaces in coffin, and it was seriously damaged and foxed dark. The Mal-gun is made with thin, loose Sook-cho(숙초), and the width of the fabric is 70cm. Both sides of the crotches are overlapped in front, and the back is opened. The waist straps are detached, leaving a little part to show the width of the straps. The hems of the Mal-gun are sewed straight, without any pleats, except some spaces for the feet to go through. This study compared the Mal-gun of Joseon Dynasty from the documentary records and picture records with the excavated Mal-gun from Seok-nam-dong, In-chceon. Also, actual Mal-gun was manufactured according to the excavated Mal-gun to study the process of manufacturing and the formation. As a result, the excavated Mal-gun has the same form of that shown in Ak-hak-gwae-bum, a documentary record from the early period of Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.79-98
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• 2015

This article studied women's headdresses that appeared in the paintings of Joseon Dynasty. This examined the shapes of women's headdresses painted in genre paintings, record paintings and nectar ritual paintings from Joseon Dynasty and compared them to literatures and relics in order to analyze their types and characteristics. Headdress can be categorized into three types: (1) square cloth worn on the top of the head; (2) a kind of small cap; (3) Cloth that completely covers the head. The first type of headdress resembles the shape of Garima. In the early period of Joseon Dynasty, it was worn not only by Gisaeng, but also by both upper and lower class women. The second type of headdress includes a cap made by connecting several cloths, round cap, and cone-shaped cap. These two types are worn on top of the head. However, sometimes these were worn between the head and the chignon to fix the chignon. Also, these were used as hair accessories for decorative purposes. In particular, old women wore these headdresses and braided their white hair around them to fix the chignon. This way, the headdress not only kept the head warm, but also hid the old women's scanty hair. Headdress was usually made of black fabric and it was a simple hair accessory that replaced the wig. The third type of headdress was widely worn among lower class women. The cloth completely covered the head so that the hair would not fall when working. It also provided protection from cold and hot weather. According to paintings, there were many ways of wearing the cloth around the head.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

One piece of Jeogori and several books of the Goryeo dynasty were found inside of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple and they were designated as national treasure of Korea, No. 1571. The jeogori was the Jeogsam as the kind of underwear and conjectured as for women by considering its size. The collar of the jeogori was 3cm-wide square-shaped collar without gussit and the sleeve was close to straight line. Also the jeogori was designed without breast ties and could be adjusted by knot button. The fabrics for the jeogori showed similar pattern as complex silk gauze in 1302. It has not been reported yet that the complex silk gauze was used for the Jeogsam from Goryeo Dynasty to Joseon Dynasty. Comparing the Jeogori of the Bogwang temple to those of Goryeo Dynasty, it can be appropriately estimated as the remains of the Goryeo Dynasty since its shape and materials are very similar to those found in the Jeogori's of the Goryeo Dynasty and it was found between the books of the Goryeo Dynasty inside of the knee part of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple. Although only one piece of Jeogori was found, it's importance in cultural value or in the study of the fabric history cannot be underestimated considering the fact that the Jeogories of the Goryeo Dynasty are scarce, and that the used fabric was not commonly used complex silk gauze, and especially that this Jeogori is the only existing Jeogsam made of complex silk gauze.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.75-91
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• 2015

This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include 'Anji(按紙)', 'Soh(槊)' and 'Gyeok(隔)'. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes' ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women's royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.30
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• pp.1-22
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• 2023

This study aims to document the conservation treatment of the fine-hemp official headgear housed by the National Museum of Korea, and to reconsider its existing name following the restoration of the original form of the damaged cultural heritage asset. The headgear consists of a single inner frame with a vertical line at the front, a single outer frame surrounding the inner frame, and a double-layered headband that spans the circumference of the wearer's head and joins the inner and the outer frames. This study applied a conservation treatment to the men's undyed hemp headgear of the Joseon Dynasty in order to remove contaminants and foreign substances on the surface and repair the partially deteriorated and damaged fabric, thereby restoring and stabilizing the original shape and preparing it for exhibitions. The hemp headgear was sewed both by hand and with a sewing machine. Although its overall composition and style are similar to the same type of official headgear from the Joseon Dynasty, the use of a sewing machine supports the assumption that it was produced in the early 1900s. This study identified similarities between the overall composition and shape of the fully-preserved hemp official headgear and those of the jangbogwan, a type of men's official headgear worn by Confucian scholars as part of their everyday attire, and compared it with the shape of jangbogwan seen in documentary records, illustrations, prior research, and portraits from the Joseon Dynasty, as well as with the characteristics of extant jangbowan artifacts, eventually concluding that it is appropriate to classify and name the headgear as a jangbogwan.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.47 no.4
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• pp.168-176
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• 2015

The history of paper folding had continued before that the paper manufacturing technique was spread in the 3rd century and it was used for witchcrafts and rituals. Fold means as was used with the word Cheop and Jeopji. In the Three Kingdoms period, the conical hat with fabric spread as customs, then it was made of the paper that led the popularization of paper folding form the early Joseon Dynasty. Paper crafts and living things with paper are mostly derived from fabrics except the paper written for saint's name related God. In the period of the tribe nation, witchcrafts and rituals brought to Japan via the Korean Peninsula, as a result Kami which means God in Japanese that becomes the paper. The first folding fan was made to develop from the fan, Baekseopsun in the end of Goryeo Dynasty. It was an outstanding application of paper folding crafts. Since the early Joseon Dynasty, paper flower folding has considered as the virtue of savings and has developed one of the Korean traditional paper arts. Paper folding has also developed in the practical uses like the other Korean paper arts but paper folding that was developed as seasonal customs, playing or religious purpose showed a different trend from Korean paper arts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.29-44
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• 2013

This study is about the periodic characteristics of Wonsam in the Joseon Dynasty. Wonsam include the Danryeong-shaped Wonsam in the beginning, the compound Wonsam in a period of transition and the stereotyped Wonsam in the late Joseon Dynasty. The formative characteristics of Wonsam are divided into four stages. The first stage of the Wonsam is from the 15th to 16th century. The shape of Wonsam began to form and it was similar to one of Danryeong during this time. The formative characteristics of the first Wonsam included collars that looked like one of Danryeong, side pleats(called Moo) with multiple inner folds, straight cylinder-shaped sleeves, and a belt tied with the Wonsam. There were various fabrics that were used for the Wonsam from this stage. Second stage of the Wonsam is from the early 17th to mid 17th century. This period marked the beginning of the transition of the Wonsam and it served as a stepping-stone to the development stage in the Joseon Dynasty. The characteristics of the transitional Wonsam were a complex combination of the Danryeong and Wonsam. During this period, the Wonsam went through many changes and forms in a short period of time. Third stage of the Wonsam is from the mid 17th to early 19th century. The Wonsam was developed at this stage. The developed Wonsam went through a period of transition equipped with a stable form. The formative characteristics of Wonsam during this period included collars that faced each other, big and wide sleeves with multicolored stripes, Hansam, curve-edged side seam and the side pleats(Moo) with multiple inner folds had disappeared. It was a turning point from the single-layered clothes to double layered clothes and from dark blue to green color appeared at this time. The fabric patterns of this stage tended to consist of more simplified silk pattern. The fourth stage of the Wonsam is from the late 19th to 20th century. The Wonsam was expanded at this stage. The formative characteristics and fabrics were typically used for the standard Wonsam and were divided into two types; as a ceremonial robe used in courts and a wedding ceremonial robe for the common people. Phenomena such as sewing of double-layered clothes as one and straight-edged side seam during the late Joseon period developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.14 no.2 s.42
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• pp.143-157
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• 2005

This study aims to analyze functions and characteristics of 'Cha-il(遮日)' which was used at ritual events(宮中儀禮行事) in the Joseon dynasty, Joseon dynasty had many ritual events related with O-Rae(五禮). Cha-il was almost used at important ritual events, especially at the congratulatory events. The congratulatory events(宮中宴享) are the representative events were held with many temporary install facilities(假設施設) in a palace. Cha-il was a kind of Korean traditional membrane structures. Cha-il was set up for cutting off interior space from sunlight and rain. In general, Cha-il was Consisted of Cha-il-jang(遮日帳:woven fabric), Cha-il-jook(遮日竹:bamboo column), some ropes, and fixing wares. In the congratulatory events, three types of Cha-il. were set up. Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il(白木大遮日)was made of cotton cloth. Yu-Dun-Cha-Il(油芚遮日) was made of oiled paper or oiled cotton cloth. Man-Joen-Cha-Il(滿箭遮日) consisted of wooden structure. Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il(白木大遮日)was set up on the most important area of stage for protecting from sunlight. Yu-Dun-Cha-Il was set up on less important area of stage for protecting from sunlight and rain. Man-Joen-Cha-Il was set up below Baek-mok-Dae-Cha-il for supporting and draining raindrops off. The results of this study were as follows; Functions of Cha-il were to protect ritually space from sunlight and rain, and to extend ritually space, and to reconstruct ritually space. Cha-il was the peculiar temporary install facility which differed from other countries.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.735-746
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• 2021

Uiwon-gun (1661-1722) and Sim Ikchang (1652-1725) were people of the upper classes of the Joseon Dynasty, who's belts woven with thread were found in their graves. The purpose of this study is to find a term suitable for the belts of these two people and to reveal the characteristics of the two belts and decipher the 8-character text marked on Shim Ikchang's belt to understand its meaning. The terms used during the Joseon Dynasty related to woven belts include "Gwangdaho", "Daeja", "Bunhapdae", "Sagagda", "Bangseungah", and "Samunjikdae". Among these terms, "Gwangdahoe" is the most suitable to indicate the belts of for both belts. The belts are made of a silk fabric of narrow width. The size of Uiwon-gun's belt is 2.8×199cm, and because it is folded in half lengthwise and sewn, the original width is 8cm. It was woven in the imitation gauze technique. Sim Ik-chang's belt measures 10.5×258cm and is decorated with a woven net at the end. There are water and mountain patterns on both ends of the belt, with 11 lines of flower patterns equally spaced between. The belt is damask, the inscription part is made of brocade with letters expressed in golden thread. The meaning of the inscription is "Made in Hanbu. May you live a long and healthy life".

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.77-88
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• 2023

In the late Joseon Dynasty, the floor of the royal palace was covered with grass mat called ji-ui. Ji-ui was produced by connecting several mats named seokja(席子) and trimming the edge with narrow fabric named seon(縇). The standard manufacturing technique was to connect the shorter sides of the seokjas by overstitching them. A room was covered with either single or multiple ji-uis, depending on the case. In the case of the main and the subsidiary halls (jeong-jeon and pyeon-jeon, respectively) where the king conducted official meetings with the civil servants, multiple ji-uis were laid out to signify the division of space, which reflected the ceremonial aspects of the governing acts. The most essential division was the distinction of yeong-wae(楹外) and yeong-nae(楹內), with the jeon-goju (a tall frontal pillar inside the hall) functioning as the breakpoint. Jeong-jeon was divided into four spaces each covered with one ji-ui: yeong-nae, yeong-wae, and the left and the right sides of the royal seat named jwa-tap(座榻). Pyeon-jeon was covered with three ji-uis that divided the hall into three spaces: yeong-nae, yeong-wae, and hu-twae(後退) (the hind section) where the royal seat was placed on.