• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.25-42
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• 2005

Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.28
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• pp.121-147
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• 2007

A large variety of mineral pigments has been used for Korean paintings and it has known that organic pigments have been used together on the Buddhist painting and the portrait. Haehakbando-do, which is from Honolulu Academy Museum in the United States, 12-fold screen was commissioned by Court of the late Joseon Dynasty in order to pray for the King's longevity. Therefore, it seems that all material used including pigments were selected very carefully and a great deal of technical effort was gone into its process. The purposes of this research were to estimate the pigments and the contributory elements of each color used on Haehakbando-do, in accordance with the conservation treatment carried out by Gochang Conservation Institute throughout last year. Without extracting sample, property of pigment was measured by nondestructive method, X-ray spectral analysis, and by comparing with the data about ancient pigments. In spite of the limited range of pigment analysis by nondestructive method, it should be noted that this method would not cause damage to the cultural properites. White pigment was found in all colored parts except the background, so it can be suggested that white color was used as a grounding of other color pigments. This would be flake white[$2PbCO_3{\cdot}Pb(OH)_2$] as Pb was found. Pb was the only element could be found in yellow, however, it can be organic pigment like Gamboge as same as background. Red would be Cinnabar (HgS) as hydrargyrum (Hg) was detected. For the light purple in cloud, organic pigments were probably used since any element is not detected except for Pb, which is used for background. It is possible that green color is the mixture of Malachite[$CuCO_3{\cdot}Cu(OH)_2$] and Azurite [$2CuCO_3{\cdot}Cu(OH)_2$], which share Cu as their main element. Azurite[$2CuCO_3{\cdot}Cu(OH)_2$] was used for bluish pigments. Black is carbon compound. For gold, solid gold (Au) was detected. It shows that gold was gilded on the flake white background. Red painted on the frame of screen was identified as Cinnabar (HgS) and the gold pattern was solid gold (Au). The supporting leg of folding screen was made of brass because both copper and zinc were detected. In conclusion, white pigment was used as grounding of all colors of Haehakbando-do, and specific pigments were used for each color. Additionally, result from the analysis of several pigments shows that mineral pigment and organic pigment, or different mineral pigments were mixed to make various colors.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.114-125
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• 2016

Lacquer is one of the most widely used natural resin in East Asia since Neolithic Age. As a major ingredient of lacquerware, lacquer is waterproof, insect-proof and rot-proof to be durable and anti-abrasion, generally utilized for mainly painting purpose. According to lacquerware excavated from several sites of Japan and China, lacquerware seems to appear in Neolithic Age. On the other hand in case of excavation research in Korea, lacquerwares are found after the Bronze Age. The initial purpose of lacquer is estimated to be adhesive, regarding the literatures mentioning bitumen(Yeoksceong ), animal glue(Kyeo) and egg alumen(Nanbaek). Especially piece of jar coffin unearthed in Pyeongtaek Daechu-ri site had trace of restoration by lacquer and hemp as an evidence of lacquer for adhesion in Pre-Three Kingdoms period. Since then a trend to restore the broken ceramics with lacquer and decorate with golden foil lasted especially in Joseon Dynasty. In the field of gold plated lacquer method, mother-of-pearl inlaying technique for lacquerware and restoration of buildings, lacquer is still used as adhesive. Due to matter of reversibility lacquer is being avoided for conservation and restoration of cultural heritage. Lacquer as a traditional material for adhesive since ancient times, however, has advantage in adhesion strength and durability. Because synthetic resin adhesive has problem of emission of volatile organic compounds and aging over time, lacquer receives attention recently. On the contrary, by combination adhesive from mixing lacquer and animal glue, already proved the possibility of applicability and chemical modification. A research to utilize lacquer as modern paint or functional material is also conducted continuously also in China and Japan. To put traditional material into practical use and modernize, chemical research from the molecular level of the lacquer is necessary in the near future.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.62
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• pp.263-289
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• 2016

Confucius, whose life coincided with the Warring States period of China, is one of the most respected sages in world history whose teachings and life produced countless disciples in China, Korea, and Japan. There are innumerable pictures, sculptures, and other artworks that portray memorable deeds of Confucius and interesting anecdotes that involve his pupils. One of the most popular subjects for these Confucian portrayals is the anecdote in which Confucius and his pupil, Zhi Ru, discover a tilting vessel at an ancestral shrine in the Lu dynasty and use it to understand the doctrine of the mean. The vessel becomes the basis for the famous Chinese expression, "the cautionary vessel beside one's seat," which is nowadays used to denote one's motto for life. Portraits of these tilting vessels can be divided between those showing the vessels only and others that show Confucius observing the vessels. The former serve as visual reminders, for rulers and policy makers, of the doctrine of the mean that is necessary to fair and righteous governance. The latter form part of the pictorial biography of Confucius with educational content and messages. Interestingly, portraits of Confucius observing or studying tilting vessels have been famous among members of the royal court and the literati, circulated either as single artworks or included in the folding screens of human portraits. Portrayals of other Confucian anecdotes are mostly found in albums that visualize the genealogy of the Way; in contrast, the portraits of Confucius and the tilting vessels were included in folding screens that were popular among the literati that enjoyed stylish works of art and antiques. The portraits of tilting vessels thus highlight the diverse functions and symbolic value of human portraits. This study classifies the portraits of tilting vessels into various forms, and analyzes the period-and objective-dependent changes and characteristics in these portraits. With its exploration of the diverse functions and aspects of portraits of Confucian anecdotes, this study will shed new light on how ancient artists reanimated the lives of great sages and how these artworks differ in their expressions and styles.

• Trans-
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• v.9
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• pp.17-36
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• 2020

This study is aimed at discussing the possibility of content production, utilization and expansion, focusing on the exhibition case of Danwon Art Museum run by Ansan Cultural Foundation. In 1991, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism named Ansan as the City of Danwon since it is believed to be the hometown of Danwon Kim Hong-do (1745~?), a painter of the late Joseon Dynasty and a well-known master of genre painting. As a result, Ansan is making various efforts to utilize Danwon Kim Hong-do for its unique resource through internal and external business such as the creation of Danwon Sculpture Park, the operation of Danwon Art Museum, and the planning of Danwon Kim Hong-do Festival. However, the biggest problem with Ansan is that there are not many collections of Kim Hong-do. Ansan has owned a total of six works as of May this year: a deer and a boy, flowers and a bird, A view of clouds on the water, Daegwallyeong, Yeodongbin, A way to Singwangsa. Accordingly, Danwon Contents Center has set up a vision to systematically collect, preserve, and display various visual and artistic materials related to Kim Hong-do, offering high-quality information based on digital data. In other words, it is a complex cultural information agency of One-Source Multi-Use, which combines the functions of libraries, archives and art galleries so that visitors' desire is satisfied. It reflects the contemporary trend of overcoming the limitations of the ancient paintings and satisfying the role and function of the art museum. From the opening of the Danwon Contents Hall, the original work of Kim Hong-do has been interpreted and produced as media contents or recreated as a new form of art by modern artists. Exhibition using technologies such as touch screen and 'deep zoom' helps visitors to heighten their experience of the archives and get inside the world of the genius painter.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.36-59
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• 2021

This study infers the origin and production period of the , which is in the Onyang folk museum, through analysis and interpretation of the Haeju Palgyeong and exploration of the landscapes and traditions contained in the painting. The first collection of landscapes to Haeju was identified as Haeju Palgyeong by Ku Sa-meng (1531-1604). Yoo Man-ju, writing in 1782, referred to it as Go-palgyeong in 『Heumyeong』 while Haeju Palgyeong was defined as Geum-palgyeong (今八景), which is the Haeju Palgyeong in the earliest period confirmed by literature. is 'Boating on the Nam river (南江泛舟)', 'Lotus viewing at Buyongdang (芙蓉賞蓮)', 'Foot washing at Gwangseokcheon (廣石濯足)', 'Seokbyul at Haeunkyo (泣川送客)', 'Fishing at Haeunjeong (東亭釣魚)' and 'Sea view at Namsan( 南山望海)', and the final two contain a picture that contains 'Viewing the moon at Yeonghaeru (瀛海玩月)' and 'Writing contest and Archery at Baeklimjeong (栢林觀德)' The Suyang Chaemi(首陽採薇), Shingwang-jeoljeol (神光霽雪), and Jiseong falls (池城瀑布) of Gopalgyeong, which were excluded from Haeju Palgyeong, are all landscapes unfolding as a grand site of Suyangsan Mountain. is a result of the reorganization of Seunggyeong centered on Eupchi (邑治), away from the Suyangsan area. It has emerged as a seunggyeong of Haeju. The elaborateness of trying to contain the detailed prizes representing Haeju, such as the specialty sake of Haeju, is revealed. Most of the landscapes depicted in are historic and outstanding spots in Haemok, but the scenes of life related to daily life are properly arranged. In addition, Foot washing (濯足), Fishing(釣魚), Doing laundry (漂母), Lotus viewing (賞蓮), Sending guests (送客), Drinking (飮酒), sea viewing (望海), Moon viewing (玩月), Archery (射藝), Poetry (詩作), Drinking tea (飮茶), and Dancing (歌舞) are of various styles. Compared with the Gopalgyeongs, Haeju Palgyeong did not take into account the distribution of landscapes in the four seasons, and the small-sized view was also broken. When considering the time of the construction of Haeunjeong and the deterioration of Yeonghhoeru, it is believed that was produced in the early- to mid-18th century. is considered to be a painting that contributed to strengthening the sense of intimacy with the local people and promoting the pride of Haeju by showing the representative scenery of Haeju, such as scenic spots and customs, away from the ideal utopia.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.1
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• pp.182-205
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• 2023

The use of royal artificial flowers was finally found through schematics and records in Wonhaeng Eulmyojeongri Uigwe, which organized the procession to Hwaseong in 1795. The results of classifying the uses of artificial flowers in the brthday banquet at Bongsudang Hall in 1795 and considering the shape, user, and usage are as follows. According to literature records, artificial flowers were made with high-quality materials such as gold, silver, and silk thread in the early period, but were mainly made of paper in the later period. Artificial flowers were used for decorating official hats, Bongsudang Hall, and banquet tables. The Sagwonhwa was used for decoration of the official hats of members of the royal family, and the one on the top was called Eosam-Sagwonhwa. At the birthday banquet inBongsudang Hall, King Jeongjo and Hyegyeonggung used the Eosam-Sagwonhwa and put it on the right side of the official hats. Officials put peach blossom with two petals on the left side of the official hats for decoration. The artificial flowers for decoration of the official hats of musicians and dancers were more expensive and flashier than the officials' ones. Depending on the dance, several artificial flowers were inserted into the official hats. When measuring the size of artificial flowers, the scale used was when making a ceremonial article. For artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet hall, red and white peach blossoms were placed in two jars with dragons painted on them and them placed on two red-painted tables, respectively. The table and jar with flowers were tied together with a red cotton string and fixed so as not to fall over. The artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet table of King Jeongjo, Hyegyeonggung, and the king's sisters were a large lotus, medium-sized lotus, peony, rose, and specially made peach flowers. The artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet table of guests and officials were small lotuses and peach blossoms. The artificial flowers used in the birthday banquet at Bongsudang Hall the most were peach blossoms, and peaches had the meaning of longevity and exorcism. It is expected that the above research results will be helpful in understanding the characteristics and usage of artificial flowers in the period of King Jeongjo and use in reproducing royal feasts and producing traditional cultural contents.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.100
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• pp.112-138
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• 2021

This paper mainly analyzes the records titled 'Shijujil(施主秩)' from the Bokjangs of each of the Rocana and Shakyamuni statues enshrined as wooden seated Vairocana Buddha Triadcomposed of Vairocana(center), Rocana(right), and Shakyamuni(left) at the Daeungjeon Hall of Hwaeomsa Temple in Gurye. The Shijujil from the Shakyamuni statue was recovered through Bokjang investigation in September 2015 and has been kept in the museum of Hwaeomsa as an undisclosed relic. After the discovery of the Shijujil from the Rocana statue through an Bokjang investigation in July 2020, both of the Shijujils were only officially released through the special exhibition 'Grand Hwaeomsa Temple in Jirisan Mountain' in September 2021. Existing documents recording on the creation of Buddha statues in the 17th century are in the form of sheets or rolls. However, the Shijujils take the form of simple stitched booklets. The Shijujil from Rocana consists of 19 chapters and 38 pages in one book, and the Shijujil from Shakyamuni consists of 11 chapters and 22 pages in one book. The contents of the Shijujils consist of the purpose of the Buddha statue creation, the creation date, the year and place of enshrining, the names of the statues, the people in charge and their roles, the sculptors, the list of items donated, and the list of the contributors. In addition, the list of monks who were staying at Hwaeomsa Temple at that time are also recorded, so the Shijujil is like a time capsule that tells the situation of Hwaeomsa Temple about 400 years ago. According to the records of the Shijujils and the Writing on the wooden pedestal of Rocana, the Vairocana Triad began to be in March 1634(12th year of King Injo) and was completed in August of that year, and was enshrined in the Daeungjeon Hall in the fall of the following year. It is very important to confirm that the Vairocana Buddha Triad of Hwaeomsa was created in 1634. Since studies on the reconstruction of Hwaeomsa Temple in the 17th century and the roles of Byeokam Gakseong have been mainly based on 『湖南道求禮縣智異山大華嚴寺事蹟』 written by monk Haean in 1636, it has been estimated that the wooden seated Vairocana Buddha Triad was created in 1636. However, it is now known that the Virocana Buddha Triad was created in 1634. The Shijujils are also a good source of information about Byeokam Gakseong who played a pivotal roles in the reconstruction projects of Hwaeomsa Temple in the 17th century. He played leading roles in rebuilding the East Five-story Stone Pagoda(1630), in creating the wooden seated Vairocana Buddha Triad(1634), and in producing the Yeongsanhoe Gwaebul(1653, Hanging Scroll Painting depicting the Shakyamuni preaching). It is also very important that the Shijujils are records that can reveal the relationship between Byeokam Gakseong and royal family of Joseon Dynasty in the 17th century. The Shijujils from Rocana and Shakyamuni are the first documents ever discovered in which the names of royal family members, such as Uichanggun(Gwang Lee, son of King Seonjo), Ikseong Shin(son-in-law of King Seonjo), and Crown Prince Sohyeon(son of King Injo) are recorded in detail in relation to the production of Buddha statues. The Shijujils from Rocana and Shakyamuni contain specific information about the production of the wooden seated Vairocana Buddha Triad in the 17th century, such as the year of production of the Buddha statues, the role of Byeokam Gakseong, and the relationship between Byeokam Gakseong and the royal family, so it is of great value not only for art history but also for historical studies of Hwaeomsa Temple.