• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.69-73
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• 1999

Korean and Japanese, both people have a lot of similarity and complexity in terms of physical constitution and culture. This study might be the first implementation that tries to figure out constitutional differences of both people in scientific way. In this study, subjects were from each country, had been exposed $5^{\circ}C$ environment wearing each country's traditional costume- so called Hanbok and Kimono- and all through this experiment we'd compared physiological responses and analyzed differences of cold response go with their own clothing culture. We've obtained following results: Korean had kept maintaining low mean skin temperature basically in cold circumstance, compared with Japanese, have stronger cold tolerance. However, there's no significant difference between Korean and Japanese. Owing to huge influence of wearing other country's traditional costume itself even makes differences of rectal temperature in a cold environment. In addition, in a period of time that wearing other country's traditional costume, thermal sensation would be different according to exposed surrounding temperature.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2016

Japan has several unique traditional colors. The traditional colors of Japan include a collection of colors used in traditional Japanese literature, textiles such as the kimono, and other Japanese arts. Japanese color system has a long history, leading to some consistencies in color and naming. During the Edo period(1603~1867), the unique color sense of 'iki' produced many color names that are often related to mouse(nezumi) and tea(cha), and fashion color originated as kabuki actors. As for colors named after animals, the most popular appears to be the mouse, which is used to express grey tones. Recently, many fashion companies in Japan have been working on reviving an interest in traditional Japanese colors. Ordinary people of Edo named even slightly different color tones, each with individual exquisite and mind valuing 'iki' senses. They translated these into their livelihood and culture. The colorimetry result of 49 restored dyed fabrics were as follows; Hue difference was 7.8, value difference was 2.9, chroma difference was 1.8 of prefix siro. Hue difference was 3.8, value difference was 1.6, chroma difference was 1.7 of prefix usu. Hue difference was 3.5, value difference was 1.5, chroma difference was 1.4 of prefix cha. Hue difference was 6.4, value difference was 1.1, chroma difference was 1.6 of prefix koi. Hue difference was 7.5, value difference was 0.8, chroma difference was 3.3 of prefix nezumi.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.132-149
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.135-148
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to examine changes in Japanese fashion design through analysis of the background and characteristics of 'Japanesque Modern'. With the advent of globalization and pressures to enhance international competitiveness, key players in both Japanese government and industry feel an urgent need to establish a distinctive brand for its products. 'Japanesque Modern' was launched in January 2006 as a nationwide campaign through the support of the Japanese Ministry of International Trade and Industry (MITI). 'Japanesque Modern' strives to be a national movement, enhancing Japan's brand image while promoting continuous industrial innovation. 'Japanesque Modern' unites Japanese culture, design, and aesthetics with advanced technology, bringing traditional concepts to enrich contemporary life styles. In order to exemplify the 'Japanesque Modern' ideal, existing market products and content that reflect the concept were selected for the 'Japanesque Modern Collection' by the Japanesque Modern Council. In making these selections, the Council emphasized criteria based on three Japanese spiritual values: Craftsmanship; Manner; and Hospitality. As a result, three designs concepts have emerged in the 'Japanesque Modern Collection': the 'convergent method'; the 'conversion method'; and the 'emphasis method'. This research will explore these design concepts and their relationship to 'Japanesque Modern'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.24-33
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic and image of oriental costume design on represented among three countries, Korea, China and Japan. The specific objectives were; 1) to identify the design characteristics of oriental costume. 2) to investigate the hierarchic structure of oriental costume image and the meaning structure of oriental costume image. The stimulus were 75 costume design of contemporary costume which represented the traditional image of orient. The main survey of questionary consisted of their evaluation of the oriental costume image by 26 semantic differential bi-polar scales and the subjects were 99 female students majoring in clothing and textiles. The data were analyze by Cluster analysis. Factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe test. The major findings were as follows; 1) As a result of design analysis, costume design of Korea, China, Japan had differences on form, color, texture, pattern, ornament, etc. 2) The hierarchic structure of oriental costume image consisted of elegance, sexy, feminine. Through factor analysis about oriental costume image 7 factors were identified; Attention, Attractiveness, Sexiness, Activeness, Weightness, Classics, Classics, Maturity. It was found out strongly that Korean costume image was simple and comfort image, Chinese costume image was sexy and feminine image, Japanese costume image was luxurious and mature image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.30-49
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• 2009

This study was intended to research how such Japonisme affected the western fashion and to consider that the unique Japanese fashion was implemented in the western mode as the traditional aesthetic sense got jointed with the western culture together and was expressed as the modern Japonisme beauty. The beauty of 'Date' was the aesthetic sense created focused on the noble culture of public family. On the contrary, 'Iki', 'Wabi', 'Sabi' and 'Shibusa' is the Japanese lower middle class's universal living aesthetics. 'Kawaii' is influence on an animation, cartoon and character industry as well as the whole world’s fashion style as one of the common aesthetic sense of the world people in the modern time. That is, Japanese fashion designers expressed the human body with such the aesthetic sense by the design of shape, space, fusion, amusement through clothes. It could be concluded that they created an autonomous amusement’s design world over the visual beauty of human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.959-967
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• 2011

An importance of design that considers the characteristics of fashion that plays a role of a medium that communicates with customers (and is not simply clothes or products by adding the particular culture factors of a local country to the development of glocalism) is discussed. While the cultural consumption becomes a core key word, the survey of customers is conducted to develop a party-wear design that applies a Korean image suitable for the party culture industry magnified by the young generation's cultural trends. Based on it, we suggest a party-wear design that applies Dancheong's lotus and derive the followed results. The first, one-piece and accessory coordination was the highest by 49.3% for the party-wear coordination and design. In addition, Dancheong was the highest by 16.5% for the traditional pattern (thought to be representative for Korean image). Among the traditional patterns, for a pattern suitable for party-wear, the case applying flowers such as the Japanese apricot flower, lotus flower, and peony was the highest. The second, among the several patterns used Dancheong that was represented by a Korean image of a lotus flower pattern because of the characteristics of strong vitality and blooming in dirty mud was often used for the pattern of clothes. The third, under the motive of the results of the survey and Dancheong's lotus flower pattern, we developed 2 methods of one piece and accessory coordination, 2 methods of top and skirt coordination, and 1 method of jacket and one piece coordination as the party-wear.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.823-833
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• 2006

The globalization phenomenon of the 21st century has acted as the catalyst to accept diversity, and a new cultural code, ethnic, has emerged in the modem society by the pursuit of diversity throughout the whole society and culture. Unlike preceding studies focusing on ethnic concepts and design development, this study attempted comparative analyses on ethnic trends shown in the collections of two designers, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, who have strong ethnic consciousness. It is considered the comparative analysis on the two designers' collections with ethic images will be a guide to indicate the fashion philosophy of the two designers in the category of Japan, and this will be useful as basic data for the establishment of the globalization identity which is needed in the future fashion industry. The study results are as follows. First, it was found that the ethnic code has been so widely accepted by the world designers in a very positive form to accept foreign cultures that the ethnic code is now showing an aspect of eclecticism. Second, designer Issey Miyake has been pursuing his own ethnic style based on his philosophy to liberate humans through continuous researches and efforts on clothes. Third, Yohji Yamamoto has been pursuing a Japanese ethnic style as a designer who has expressed the unique beauty of Japan from the characteristics of Japanese traditional clothes. Fourth, as a result of comparative analyses on collections, they both have pursued an ethnic style based on the unique national characteristics of Japan, but it was also found that their fashion philosophy has developed differently in the same category of ethnic trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.42-53
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to study doll's symbolism representing our social culture and the characteristics of clothing design. The ball joint doll was selected, that are pretty much resembled to human body in terms of facial expression, body proportion, joint movement, etc. Results of research are summarized as follows: the ball joint doll is indicated a doll whose joints are free to move with a round shaped joint, which originated by Yochilya simon, who adopted German Hans Bellmer's method.'rho ball joint doll, first, there appeared state of human isolation due to the material civilization and industrial revolution, and trend of adhering to one's own world made human possess dolls. Second, according to the doll play became a representing play culture among Kidult culture, dolls, that are resembled with human being, were recognized as personalized objects. Third, along of expanding digital culture that makes easy to exchange information via Internet, so, ball joint doll market is growing fast, for which various levels of mania are being formed. Take a look at the doll fashion in modern society. In accordance to form of Look, it is largely categorized Young Casual look, Office look, Ethnic look and Military look. When take a look at design specialty, young casual look was presented as a comfortable silhouette and also made of elastic materials and expressed vivid bright tones. Office look image was expressed as a suit of jacket with skirt, and cotton wool polyester materials and acro-matic colors. Ethnic look was represented by Japanese traditional dress and Chinese traditional clothing. The Military look was generally emphasized army uniforms of straight silhouette and shoulder straps.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.80-91
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how he successfully connected his ideas of fashion design for art with the commerciality without a conflict about for 40 years. It is expected that this study will be a precedent in the aspect of the symmetry between artistry and commercialization in Issey Miyake's works. We will examine Issey Miyake's idea of fashion design and its development for the commercialization since 1970s that he started to give shape to his ideas in the fashion works to exactly commercialize in the market. 1. Re-creation of tradition(a piece of cloth): throughout the 1970s, Miyake continued to experiment with a variety of Eastern design elements. The elements of Japanese or oriental tradition made him to be at the very center of supreme of the world of fashion. He took advantages of his identity, and developed the tradition for mass produce. 2. Design for mass(Pleats Please): Miyake decided to make clothes for the people, not only for the top class of the society. This thought developed the designs for the mass, which were functional, universal for the modem buyer, and accessible to a wide market. He realized his ideal by the medium of pleats, which were made through industrial processes, while he tried variously the aspect of formative of the pleats in the collections. His designs concept is summarized by the industrial product design and anonymous design. 3. Innovation of manufacturing system(A-POC): Miyake in 1999 developed A-POC. A-POC is used modern computers in conjunction with traditional technology. A-POC does not make only a new cloth but also makes a new manufacturing system of clothes.