• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.4
• /
• pp.391-399
• /
• 2006

Modern Japan has been known as the country manufacturing Shin-gosen that denotes Japanese synthetic fiber. Japan has long traditon of weaving and dyeing of local traditional Textiles. Japanese traditional weaving and dyeing methods have been handed down through hundred years and various type of textiles have been fabricated in different regions. Japanese modern worldly famous fashion designers are recognized by using the Japanese traditional textiles. Traditional textiles of Japan are inherited in the present age and become the source of inspiration for modern Japanese fashion designers. This research investigated the originality and modernity of 10 kinds of main Japanese traditional textiles by design servey, 5kinds of weaving methods and 5kinds of dyeing methods. The 5kinds weaving methods include Kasuri, Shima, Cizimi, Zohu, Chumugi and 5kinds dyeing methods include Izome, Katazome, Tuzukaki, Uzen, Shibori dyeing.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.20 no.1 s.69
• /
• pp.229-242
• /
• 2007

In Japan, a country renowned for her traditional respect for handicraft, superior craft techniques have been transmitted from generation to generation. Modern Japanese textiles reinterprete these traditional techniques in a new light and combine them with modern technology, to make modern Japanese industrial textile both futuristic and traditional simultaneously. This combining of new technology and handicraft serves as a reservoir for a remarkable diversity and originality in the development of new technology and design, and constitutes an important trend in modern industrial textiles. The aim of this study is to investigate the developmental background of Japanese textile industry that championed this trend to make the Japanese development unique in modern textile industries and to consider the concept of modern textiles as well as the structural innovation as represented by this new trend, thus contributing to the development of creative textiles for the present and the future. The findings of this study can be summarized as follows. The combining of new technology and traditional handicraft: 1) was made possible by Japanese consciousness that values traditional culture and by early recognition of advanced textile industry, which awarded new meaning and value to the traditional handicraft leading to an expanded social role for textiles. 2) helped construct a modern concept of textiles by pursuing textile media that are state-of-the-art, aesthetic, and highly sensitive to satisfy the requirements of modern industrial textile such as high quality, high performance, and high sensitivity. 3) enabled new design ideas and creation of new styles by implementing structural innovation in industrial textiles that involved diversification of expression, diversity in materials, and emphasis on texture. In short, by combining new technology and traditional handicraft, Japan came up with a new sense of aesthetics that is highly original and high level and with which the rest of the world can easily sympathize, thereby presenting one of the most important guiding principles for future textiles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.4 no.1
• /
• pp.11-18
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic and composition factor of Japanese costume design. The stimulus were 25 contemporary costume design which represented the traditional image of Japanese. The main survey of questionary consisted of their evaluation of the Japanese costume image by 26 semantic differential bipolar scales and the subjects were 99 female students majoring in clothing and textiles. The data were analyzed by Factor analysis, Multidimensional Scaling Method and Regression Analysis. The major findings were as follows. As a result of design analysis, contemporary Japanese costume design which represented the traditional image had traditional form, color, texture, pattern, etc. Through factor analysis about Japanese costume image 7 factors were identified; Attractiveness, Attention, Cool and warm, Neatness, Activeness, Maturity, Classics. According to image positioning, Japanese costume design was classified by simple-decorative, soft-hard. As the result of regression analysis, The preference of Japanese costume image was related to attractive factor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.11
• /
• pp.1750-1759
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to comparatively analyze the color characteristics of the Japanese ethnic look advanced by Japanese and western designers in comparison with the actual traditional colors of Japan. The data determining the traditional colors of Japan was collected through a critical apparatus examination of 250 colors and the color data of what determines Japanese ethnic look was collected through an analysis of the clothing appearing in four fashion collections -Paris, Milan, London, and New York- from the 2004 S/S collections to the 2008 F/W collections. For the analysis of these colors, Photoshop was used with an RGB value measuring under 300dpi resolutions. The RGB values were then converted to H V/C values through Munsell Conversion 8.0.3, and they were analyzed using Munsell's 40 Hue and PCCS. The results of this study are as follows: Japanese designers are expressing their own aesthetic theory by designing fashions in traditionally Japanese hues. However, neutral colors and low-chroma tones appear more often than traditional colors. This study illustrates how these designers use color to reflect their inside ideals being oversensitive traditonal ideals. In contrast, western designers reflect more contemporary trends through the use of hues that more clearly reveal their preconception of the colors of the Orient rather than actual traditional Japanese colors. Moreover, these foreign designers tend to approach fashion design by the means of shape rather than color. Japanese designers systematically analyze and apply their own culture to contemporary fashion design. Their efforts serve as a good reference model for research on traditional culture and fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.17 no.6
• /
• pp.158-175
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to Korean fashion designers who wish to advance to the overseas collection. This is done through analyzing the design characteristics of Japanese young fashion designers, Tsumori Chisato, Commuun, and Limi Feu, who have successfully launched their designs into the Paris collection and became global fashion brands. Collections of each brand were analyzed by the overall fashion style and design elements. For the overall fashion style, Tsumori Chisato used a romantic style using details with various ornaments, whereas Commuun shows minimal style with a simple silhouette. Limi Feu expressed avant-garde style with experimental patterns. Moreover, these brands expressed different style to other brands by applying Japanese traditional clothes, patterns, and Japanese techniques in modern view point. In terms of design elements, these three brands used the H-line silhouette. Tsumori Chisato used loose fit; Commuun, slim line; and Limi Feu, boxy silhouette. In the case of colors, materials, patterns and details, Tsumori Chisato showed mix & match with various colors, materials, patterns and details. Commuun used mono tone with black & white using only one or two materials. Limi Feu usually used the color black with cotton. According to the style of the brand and region of the collection, the main characteristics of the design and the application of Japanese traditional elements can be different.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.6
• /
• pp.63-78
• /
• 2015

This study explored culture adaptive attitudes and traditional dress donning practices among Japanese women who immigrated to Korea after marrying Korean men. Quantitative research was conducted on Korean-Japanese multicultural families. Participants were 233 married women who emigrated from Japan to Korea currently living in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. The data was analyzed using frequency analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The findings were as follows: First, a positive relationship was found between Hanbok acceptance attitudes(HAA) and Kimono transmission attitudes(KTA). Both HAA and KTA had a positive relationship with ethnic identity. 43.3% of the respondents thought that they belonged both to Korean and Japanese ethnicity, 30.5% to Korean ethnicity, and 26.2% to Japanese ethnicity. Similar tendency (64.8% to bicultural identity, 31.3% to Korean, and 3.9% to Japanese) was found in the ethnic orientation towards their children. Both HAA and KTA had no difference in accordance with nationality, education and income level. Second, 70.4% of women had no experience of wearing Hanbok, and 90.1% had no experience of wearing Kimono. The women mostly wore Hanbok and Kimono for social events and family weddings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.3
• /
• pp.359-370
• /
• 2011

This study analyzes the textiles design of natural indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan. In this study, a total of 556 Korean natural indigo dyed products, and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products were used for analysis. The subjects of this study were 556 natural indigo dyed products and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products selling natural indigo dyed products which were found using search engine keywords of natural indigo dyeing and natural dyeing. Research and analysis was treated regarding the products, items, patterns, and the representation techniques of the patterns. The results of this study are as follows. In the pattern used for natural indigo dyed products, 71.4% of Korean products have no pattern, but 77.1% of Japanese products have patterns. On the representation techniques of the patterns, Korean products used tie-dyeing and a dip patterned fabric. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterning techniques were paraffin dye, followed by tie-dyeing, yarn-dyed and weaving, screen printing, and yarn-dyed and knitting. Regarding the kinds of patterns for natural indigo dyed products, only 8 kinds of patterns were used in Korean products; however, over 50 kinds of various patterns were used in Japanese products. Most patterns in the Korean products were ion patterns made by tie-dyeing. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterns were stripe patterns, followed by flower, dot, and ion patterns. Based on these research results, the problems of the textile design of Korean natural indigo dyed products were that most of the products have no pattern, and even though there were patterns, they lacked variations between the products. While in the case of Japan, they used the traditional and modem patterns of various textile representation techniques.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.5 no.4
• /
• pp.56-72
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.113-131
• /
• 2014

This study aims to examine the background to the rise of Rei Kawakubo, a Japanese designer who achieved fame by suggesting the concept of deconstruction and recombination of clothes, and to look at environment of the time, the formative characteristics of her design and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in her design. As the method of research, collections that Kawakubo unveiled over the past 10 years starting in 2004 were examined, and a survey of the literature was conducted to describe the background of her growth and the Japanese aesthetic sense inherent in the design. According to the study, Kawakubo grew up in the ruins of a war, and went through a time of great tumult, when Western culture was mixing with Japan's traditional culture. She taught herself a method of creation involving the deconstruction of clothes, and their recombination. For this reason, her design from the beginning was inevitably focused on deconstructing clothes before they could be recombined. Through analyses of her collections, it was found that the formative characteristics of her design were characterized by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity. Kawakubo created clothes under the influence of an ethnicity that was shrouded in individuality and a traditional aesthetic sense, and the formative characteristics of her design defined by asymmetry, incompleteness, humor and hybridity were closely related to the hybridity represented by Wabi (わび), Yugen (幽玄), Okashi (をかし) and Zakyo (雜居).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.40 no.5
• /
• pp.855-866
• /
• 2016

This study explored the concept and use of two kinds of textiles goods (Cheongpo [blue textile] and Samseung) sold by Cheongpo-jeon merchants in the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. Research was conducted based on an analysis of relevant documents published during the Joseon Dynasty. The Cheongpo-jeon was a merchant group that predated 1637. They sold various imported goods such as Cheongpo, Samseung, cotton textiles, felts, hats, incense, and needles. Cheongpo and Samseung were the main products among these imported goods. Cheongpo was a blue cotton textile imported from China that was sold by Chengpo-jeon merchants. The Samseung sold by merchants was a kind of imported textile whose surface provided a feeling like cotton flannel. The concept of the two textiles were different from existing ideas. Generally, the Cheongpo was believed to be a hemp fabric dyed in blue and the Samseung was a textile with a density of three seung (a traditional density unit of textiles). Cheongpo was used as a currency for war supplies during the two Japanese invasions of Korea (1592 to 1598). In addition, it was also used to make military uniforms, tents, and flags after the Japanese invasion. Samseung was used in the combat uniforms of Chinese soldiers from Ming China during the Japanese invasion of Korea. In addition, it was continuously used to make quilted gambeson amour and some of military uniforms until the $19^{th}$ century.