• 제목/요약/키워드: Japanese avant-garde

검색결과 26건 처리시간 0.022초

일본 아방가르드 패션에 표현된 서구 전통복식의 혼성모방 (Pastiche of Western Traditional Costume in Japanese Avant-Garde Fashion)

  • 임은혁
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제19권5호
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    • pp.970-980
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    • 2011
  • As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

일본 아방가르드 패션의 미학 -몸의 평면화를 중심으로- (Aesthetics of Japanese Avant-garde Fashion -Focusing on Planarization of the Body-)

  • 임은혁
    • 복식
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    • 제57권1호
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    • pp.50-65
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    • 2007
  • Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

Avant-Garde Fashion: A Case Study of Martin Margiela

  • Reddy-Best, Kelly L.;Burns, Leslie Davis
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • 제13권2호
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2013
  • We studied the meaning of the term avant-garde in relation to clothing of the 1980s and 1990s by examining the media's perceptions of Martin Margiela, a Belgian deconstructionist designer who was often labeled as avant-garde by journalists, scholars, and fashion critics in the late 20th century. A five-step content analysis method described by Paoletti (1982) was used to conduct the research. Newspaper and magazine articles in the 1980s and 1990s were analyzed using a set of existing avant-garde characteristics developed by Crane (1987) to determine if those journalists' perceptions matched the characteristics described by Crane. Results indicated that the journalists' critiques and descriptions matched the avant-garde characteristics described by Crane (1987). Including a subjective element to the conceptualization of the term explains how journalists described Margiela's designs despite Japanese designers' use of similar techniques before him. We (re) conceptualize the term's latter 20th century meaning and shifting dialogue to include a subjective element.

일본 분리파건축회의 초기작품에 관한 연구 (Early Works of Japanese Secessionist Architects)

  • 황보봉
    • 한국산학기술학회논문지
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    • 제15권5호
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    • pp.3176-3182
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    • 2014
  • 본 논문은 유럽에서 근대건축의 헤게모니 다툼이 치열하게 전개되고 있던 1920년대 일본의 근대건축이 어떠한 성향을 지니면서 발전하게 되는지를 분리파건축회(Japanese Secessionist)의 건축이론과 작품을 통해 살펴보고자 한다. 분리파건축회는 1920년부터 1928년까지 9년이라는 짧은 시간동안 활동한 전위예술가(Avant-garde) 단체이지만, 이들의 도전적이고 활발한 활동이 일본 근대건축의 전통성 논쟁을 비롯해 예술가의 지위에 대한 논란을 불러일으켰다는 점에서 근대건축의 발전에 있어 중요한 위치를 차지하고 있다. 본 논문은 분리파건축회가 창립하게 되는 배경과 더불어 일본 근대건축의 중요한 역사적 사건으로 평가할 수 있는 제반요소들을 제시하고자 한다. 또한, 이들의 급진적인 건축관을 당대 유럽 건축계의 흐름과 대비시켜 파악하고, 근대건축의 전반적인 맥락에서 분리파건축회가 지니는 건축적 경향과 특징을 규명하고자 한다.

한국 현대복식에 나타난 일본 패션의 영향 -여대생을 중심으로 (1998년)- (The Influence of Japanese Fashion Which Shown in Korean Contemporary Costume -Focused on College Women(1998)-)

  • 박길순;김세윤
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제7권1호
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    • pp.27-37
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    • 1999
  • The results of this study are as follows : 1. Though Korean college women have taken unfriendly attitudes and thoughts to Japan, they have enjoyed themselves over the various Japanese cultures. 2. They have thought that Japanese fashion becomes popular in Korea, Japanese clothes are superior to Korean clothes in quality, and they are suitable to express personality. 3. Japanese clothing elements which become popular now in Korea are the clothing style of ‘school girl-look’, ‘Avant-garde’, punk hair style, and the various shapes of shoes, accessories, and make-up.

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1990년대(年代) 패션에 나타난 기모노 이미지 디자인의 분석(分析) (A Study on the Fashion Design imaged by Kimono in the 1990s)

  • 염혜정
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제5권3호
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    • pp.95-109
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study was for analyzing the fashion design imaged by Kimono in the 1990s. Through the work, what is the way to create the non-western fashion design can be found. For this purpose, I took my design data from fashion magazines in the 1990s, and referred to the literal materials about history of western costume and Kimono. The result were as follows ; Kimono in Japanese denotes thing to wear. Ki is derived from the verb kiru, to wear, and mono, thing. However, in the western world the term came to mean the T-shaped outer garment formerly known in Japan as the kosode. It is consists of sleeve(sode), wide sash(obi), hemline(suso), collar(eri), and material. There were many complex reasons for its diversity in the west, and for its evolution during the past one hundred years from the peignoir including exoticism, eroticism, women's liberation to the high fashion imaged by folklore and avant-garde. Therefore the fashion design imaged by Kimono was divided into feminine style, natural & folklore style, modern & avant-garde style.

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일제강점기 '전위미술론'의 전통관 연구 - '문장(文章)' 그룹을 중심으로 (A Study on Avant-Garde Fine Art during the period of Japanese Colonial Rule of Korea, centering on 'Munjang' (a literary magazine))

  • 박계리
    • 미술이론과 현장
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    • 제4호
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    • pp.57-76
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    • 2006
  • From the late 1920s to the 1930s, Korea's fine art community focused on traditional viewpoints as their main topic. The traditional viewpoints were discussed mainly by Korean students studying in Japan, especially oil painters. Such discussions on tradition can be divided into two separate halves, namely the pre- and post-Sino-Japanese War (1937) periods. Before the war, the modernists among Korea's fine art community tried to gain a fuller understanding of contemporary Western modern art, namely, expressionism, futurism, surrealism, and so forth, on the basis of Orientalism, and borrow from these schools' in order to create their own works. Furthermore, proponents of Joseon's avant-garde fine arts and artists of the pro-fine art school triggered debate on the traditional viewpoints. After the Sino-Japanese War, these artists continued to embrace Western modern art on the basis of Orientalism. However, since Western modern fine art was regressing into Oriental fine art during this period, Korean artists did not need to research Western modern fine art, but sought to study Joseon's classics and create Joseon's own avant- garde fine art in a movement led by the Munjang group. This research reviews the traditional view espoused by the Munjang group, which represented the avant-garde fine art movement of the post-war period. Advocating Joseon's own current of avant-garde fine art through the Munjang literary magazine, Gil Jin - seop, Kim Yong-jun and others accepted the Japanese fine art community's methodology for the restoration of classicism, but refused Orientalism as an ideology, and attempted to renew their perception of Joseon tradition. The advocation of the restoration of classicism by Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun appears to be similar to that of the Yasuda Yojuro-style restoration of classicism. However, Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun did not seek their sources of classicism from the Three-Kingdoms and Unified Silla periods, which Japan had promoted as a symbol of unity among the Joseon people; instead they sought classicism from the Joseon fine art which the Japanese had criticized as a hotbed of decadence. It was the Joseon period that the Munjang group chose as classicism when Japan was upholding Fascism as a contemporary extremism, and when Hangeul (Korean writing system) was banned from schools. The group highly evaluated literature written in the style of women, especially women's writings on the royal court, as represented by Hanjungnok (A Story of Sorrowful Days). In the area of fine art, the group renewed the evaluation of not only literary paintings, but also of the authentic landscape paintings refused by, and the values of the Chusa school criticized as decadent by, the colonial bureaucratic artists, there by making great progress in promoting the traditional viewpoint. Kim Yong-jun embraced a painting philosophy based on the painting techniques of Sasaeng (sketching), because he paid keen attention to the tradition of literary paintings, authentic landscape paintings and genre paintings. The literary painting theory of the 20th century, which was highly developed, could naturally shed both the colonial historical viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as heteronomical, and the traditional viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as decadent. As such, the Munjang group was able to embrace the Joseon period as the source of classicism amid the prevalent colonial historical viewpoint, presumably as it had accumulated first-hand experience in appreciating curios of paintings and calligraphic works, instead of taking a logical approach. Kim Yong-jun, in his fine art theory, defined artistic forms as the expression of mind, and noted that such an artistic mind could be attained by the appreciation of nature and life. This is because, for the Munjang group, the experience of appreciating nature and life begins with the appreciation of curios of paintings and calligraphic works. Furthermore, for the members of the Munjang group, who were purists who valued artistic style, the concept of individuality presumably was an engine that protected them from falling into the then totalitarian world view represented by the Nishita philosophy. Such a 20th century literary painting theory espoused by the Munjang group concurred with the contemporary traditional viewpoint spearheaded by Oh Se-chang in the 1910s. This theory had a great influence on South and North Korea's fine art theories and circles through the Fine Art College of Seoul National University and Pyongyang Fine Art School in the wake of Korea's liberation. In this sense, the significance of the theory should be re-evaluated.

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에스닉 이미지 패션에 나타난 메이크업 연구 - 일본과 아프리카를 중심으로 - (A Study on Make-up as a Component of Ethnic Image Fashion - Focusing on Japan and Africa -)

  • 서정윤;이요진
    • 복식
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    • 제59권4호
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    • pp.14-25
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    • 2009
  • This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.

유영국의 초기 추상, 1937~1949 (Early Abstract Paintings of Yoo Youngkuk)

  • 정영목
    • 미술이론과 현장
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    • 제3호
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    • pp.173-192
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    • 2005
  • Yoo Youngkuk started his career as an artist when he entered Bunkagakuin of Tokyo in 1935 he actively participated in the Japanese art scene as a young Korean artist until 1943. In his earliest works, Rhapsody and Work B, Surrealist and abstract influences are manifested as these were prevalent in Japan at the time. With the exception of Rhapsody and Work B, all works available that were executed between 1937 and 1940 are abstract, which points to the fact that Yoo intended abstraction from the beginning. Surviving works in relief suggest his early style was founded on the abstractions similar to Russian Avant-Garde, Neo-plasticism and Bauhaus simplicity. His early abstractions were not the ideational images derived in the process of the abstraction of the representational image, but they arose from the constructive attitude in composing the already stylized non-representational geometries. It is worth noting that his early emphasis was on the pure and absolute geometric abstraction, rather than the images motivated from the figurative representation. Yoo differentiates himself from Kim Whan Ki in the following aspects: one, he eliminated the subject matter i.e. human figures and the nature; two, he maintained the constructivist attitude in creating a strict and absolute abstraction; three, he experimented with different styles without combining them. He manifests direct influences from the prevalent Western art influences, such as Futurism and Russian Avant-Garde, unlike Kim who vaguely references. In both paintings and reliefs, Yoo's attempt in the realization of the pictorial depth and space seems cerebral and conceptualized compared with the other artists of the time who resolved abstraction via the constructive dimension. Uemura, a contemporary critic to the geometric abstractions in Japan, disapproves the stylistic bent in the adaptation of the abstract painting without the comprehension of its spiritual movement. As witnessed in other criticisms as well, contemporary Japanese critics' interest lie mainly in the superficial observation such as the presence of representational elements, composition and use of color. Such formal and superficial understanding of the geometric abstraction resulted in

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