• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.117-129
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• 1999

Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.110-126
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• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• 한국농촌건축학회논문집
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.47-62
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to analyze and explain the formation and character of presbyterian missionary architecture in Andong area from 1900 to 1945, which we may call "the modem architecture of Korea". I have surveyed and analyzed the 26 buildings. and so, the major findings of this study are as follows. Firstly, the phase of building is 1) buy the existing Korean traditional building and lot-a thatch roofed house. 2) modify the existing Korean traditional building-a thatch and tile roofed hose. 3) build the Korean style building-a thatch and tile roofed building. 4) build the Western style Building-a timber structured and zinc roofed building. 5) build the Western style Building- a masonry structured and zinc(or tile)roofed building. Secondly, the character of building is 1) In the Korean traditional building, the missionaries change the function for their purpose-office, church, school, hospital. they modify the existing Korean timber frame construction by introducing the material-brick, plaster, glass, Japanese style timber etc .. they live in the Korean existing residential area. 2) In the Western style building, the missionaries build the house according to their life style. they build the timber structured building-church, and the masonry (brick or stone)structured building such as a house, church, school and dormitory, and hospital. their building located on the hill depart from the existing Korean residential area.

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.9-20
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• 1990

The objective of this study is to test the applicability of the Information processing model suggested by Kaplan to the preferences of Korean people as well as to investigate the preference patterns of Korean people and the influencing factors on Korean preferences for the landscape. Photo - questionnaire survey was conducted twice to collect the data concerning the landscape preferences. The samples of the first survey were selected from the citizens of Seoul and the students of Seoul National University. The first survey focused on the preference patterns of Korean people while the emphasis of the second survey was given to the test of information processing model and the influencing factors on the preferences of Korean people. The samples of second survey were also selected from the students of Seoul National University. The photos in the photo - questionnaire for the first survey included the scenes representing both three landscape styles(Korean, Japanese and Western styles)and three landscape qualities such as the layout of space, the use of landscape plants and the use of stones and rocks. For the second survey, four informational factors such as complexity, coherence, legibility and mystery were selected for inclusion in the photos of photo - questionnaire. Respondents for both survey were asked to respond their preferences on the five - point Likers scale. The results of the study suggested that four informational factors influence significantly the preferences of Korean students. The study indicated that both the citizens of Seoul and the students of Seoul National University prefer water and vegetation to rock among the contents of landscape. Among the landscape styles, Japanese landscape style was most preferred and Western landscape style was more preferred than Korean traditional landscape style. In addition to informational factors, it was found that the contents of landscape and landscape style were also major influencing factors on the landscape preferences. The socio - economic backgrounds of respondents such as age, foreign travel experience, income, residency before the age 14, familiarity and respondent's experties in landscape architecture seemed to Influence the landscape preferences.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.35-54
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• 2001

This study concerns especially Choryang-Weagwan which was the largest Japanese House left in Pusan through Chosun Dynasty. Choryang-Waegwan was known to have been jointly constructed by Korean and Japanese carpenters. Therefore, Weagwan was a place for exchange of architectural tradition (special features such as sliding door and straw mat) between Korean and Japan. Judging from this point of view, It is certain that mutual influences helped to shape architecture of Choryang-Weagwan. After establishment Choryang- Weagwan was gradually extended, owing to the prosperity of trade with Japan. But since late 18th century government of Chosun did not give as much care to maintaining Choryang- Weagwan as a result of deteriorating condition of commercial and diplomatic relations with Japan. From the beginning of Choryang- Weagwan construction, Superintendents of the construction were called Hun-do and Byl-cha, who acted as official interpreters as well. And, during construction works, they were called Gamdong-gwan, At the start of construction, Weagwan was built partly in Japanese-style by the carpenters from Tokugawa Shogunate. But as time passed, the participation rate of Japanese carpenters diminished gradually. After 1831, Japanese technician vanished extremely and repairing construction was continued by the Korean workers only.

• 대한한의학원전학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.109-130
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• 2023

Objectives : The Dong-hwa Yakbang Cheobangcheol, a formulary on proprietary medicines created by Dong-hwa Pharmacy in the early 20th century was analyzed with a focus on characteristics of the formulas that were made and sold at the time. Methods : First, external features such as bibliography, table of contents, and descriptive style were examined. In content, licensure of listed formulas, ingredients, dosage form, manufacturing process, effects, properties were medically and pharmacologically analyzed. In this process, the Japanese Pharmacopeial Convention, legislation related to medicinal pharmacology during Japanese Colonial Period, and the Donguibogam were referenced. Results : In terms of form, the Dong-hwa Yakbang Cheobangcheol faithfully follows medicinal related legislation established in the Japanese Colonial Period. However, in terms of content, we could see that most of the formulas were based on the Korean Medical tradition, while Western pharmaceutical technology and chemicals were selectively integrated when necessary. Conclusions : The Dong-hwa Yakbang Cheobangcheol comprehensively displays the situation and goal of Dong-hwa Pharmacy, one of the most representative pharmaceutical companies in proprietary medicine of the early 20th century, in which it was under pressure to adapt to power for survival, while it strived to help improve the health of the people of the time by adopting strengths of both Eastern and Western medicinals.

• 대중서사연구
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.349-392
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• 2019

한일국교정상화를 전후하여 '일본이 또 다시 한반도로 온다'라는 막연한 불안과 공포의 정조가 조성되었으며, 그에 대한 반작용으로 '왜색' 비판담론이 강력하게 대두되었다. 다만 기존의 '왜색' 비판담론이 미처 처분하지 못한 식민지 잔재에 대한 민족적 반감을 표명하는 것이었다면, 1960년대 비판담론은 대중문화 속에서 새롭게 생성되고 있던 '왜색'에 신경을 곤두세우고 있었으며 그것을 한국에 대한 '일본의 변함없는 악의'가 징후적으로 드러나는 현상으로서 파악하고자 했던 것이다. 이처럼 국교정상화를 전후하여 대두된 '왜색' 비판담론은 기존 비판담론과는 질적인 차이를 지녔다. 이 새로운 '왜색' 비판의 논리는 "국경을 넘는 문화적 현대성의 매개", 즉 냉전체제하 지정학적 질서 속에서 유동하고 연쇄되었던 서구(미국)발 탈민족적·탈국가적 '대중문화'와 그것의 소비주체로서 성장한 '대중'에 대한 경계와 검열의 의지를 동반하고 있었던 것이다. 따라서 1960년대 한국에서 '대중적인 것=왜색적인 것=소비적인 것'의 위상학은 그 사회 내부에 존재했던 "도덕적 요구의 역설"을 드러내 보인다. 이는 일본이라는 타자와의 직접적 접촉을 회피하도록 하면서도 동시에 그것에 한없이 이끌리며 가까이 다가가도록 만드는 분열적 순환구조를 고착화하는 계기가 된다. 그것은 자타를 엄밀하게 가르는 도덕적 절단을 통해 대상을 저편으로 밀어내면서도 한편으로는 그 대상에 매료되어 다시 이편으로 끌어들이는 반복강박을 내포하는 것이다. 이 글은 그것이 구조화된 궤적을 더듬어보고 그에서 반복되어 나타난 불협화음의 의의를 정치미학적 차원에서 해명하고자 당대에 발생된 상이한 소리들에 귀를 기울여 볼 작정이다. 그것은 곧 한국사회의 내적 통제원리를 구축하려는 권력이 강력하게 발동하면 할수록, 혹은 그 권력이 지닌 억압적이고도 폭력적인 이면을 감추기 위해서라도 되풀이하여 끌어들어야만 했던 '일본(적인 것)'이라는 대타성, 즉 완전히 자신의 일부로 받아들일 수도 없고 소멸시켜 버릴 수도 없는 역설에 대한 고찰이 될 것이다.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.74-83
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• 2012

This study is an historical consideration about the modern discourse of Japanese spacial tradition driven from cultural background. The purpose of this study is to establish a cartographic map of historical progress, and to shed light on the forming of identity in Japanese traditional space design on the schizo-analytical aspect. It adopts F. Guattari's psychoanalytic theory to the structural analysis of Japanese traditional space design. The process of this study is illustrated as follows: At first, it mentions Guattari's theory of Mechanical Unconscious, Schizo-analysis, Cartography, and Abstract machine as theoretical background. And, it considers the identity of Japanese traditional space constructed by various cultural sign over a long period of time as the statement of apriority. Secondly, it clarifies semiologic generation of Japanese traditional space design based on the analysis of spacial morphemes about each design stemmed from modernization process of Japan. Thirdly, it ascertains semiologic topography the representamens draw, i.e. schizo-analytic cartography from synchronic and diachronic point of view. Fourthly, it analyses traditional discourse structure in terms of generative schizo-analysis and transformational schizo-analysis with four categories- object, style, concept, strategy. Through this process, it studies the reproduction of Japanese tradition in terms of the 'social organization', and explores the way vitalized on the space-time coordinate system by the schizo-analysis of the mechanical unconscious. In conclusion, it clarifies Generative-schizo is accomplished in the level of formulating representamen, and Transformational-Schizo involves experimental mind that induce implantation of the heteromorphic elements and avant-garde experiments of abstract mechanical operation in the schizo-analysis of Japanese traditional space design. The significance of this study is to arrange an opportunity of introspection on Korean-ness seriously from inspecting logic of Japan-ness closely in traditional space design.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.140-147
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• 2010

The objectives of this study are, first to define the concept of restaurant total coordination and establish its components as a design strategy for planning and managing all elements comprising a restaurant, and second, to survey the total coordination of Japanese restaurants in foreign countries and examine how traditionality, which is an element for globalizing Japanese restaurants, is expressed. This study was conducted through literature review for defining the concept of restaurant total coordination and extracting its components and a field survey for analyzing the current state of restaurant total coordination and traditionality expression methods. The results of this study are as follows. First, Japanese restaurants categorized into Type A with relatively high traditionality expression(3.3 or higher) were 25% of the surveyed restaurants. These restaurants showed the traditional characteristics of Japanese style as they are without contemporary adaptation for all components of restaurant. Second, 41.7% of the restaurants were categorized into Type B with traditionality expression between 1.7 and 3.3. They were mostly popular casual restaurants at which people can enjoy Japanese food comfortably. In visual and spatial design elements, traditional and contemporary styles appeared in the equal percentage, and decoration, table setting and food design were styled according to Japanese traditions. Third, 4 cases(33.3%) were categorized into Type C with traditionality expression below 1.7. Because they were fine dining restaurants that sold high priced dishes, formality and consistency were also high. Through all design elements including visual, spatial, table setting and food design elements, elegant and simple contemporary images were dominant. The results of this study will be used as basic materials to establish the concept of total coordination that views the visual, spatial, table setting and food design elements comprising a restaurant, which were approached separately in previous studies on restaurants, together from the viewpoint of integrative deigns, and to make design strategies for globalizing Korean restaurants based on Japanese restaurant cases.

• 한국주거학회논문집
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.75-86
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• 2004

This research is about the Korean private residence as the actual housing published in Kuchie, 'Chosun and Architecture'. Research about the Korean private residence during the Japanese colonial period is important to find out the influence of foreign culture on Korean housing during that period. This research is necessary to reveal the tendency of modernization of Korean housing and how the foreign cultural relationship transformed and applied to the Korean housing. This research was carried out mainly on the 16 Korean private residences published in 'Chosun and Architecture'. The main subject of this research is to analyze the architectural floor plan, building material and heating facilities etc. Other important themes of the research are the practical side of actual housing plan, interior furnitures and fittings, electrical fittings and the classification of life style.