• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.179-191
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• 2003

The study is to suggest easier making method of skirts and slacks as to compare production process between manufacturers and references of clothing construct in universities. Skirts and slacks have simple production process and they are basic subjects in clothing construct class. But most references have just contents which are to make basic styles of skirts and slacks made basic materials. Continuous development of new material and variety of style request more efficient and easer making method in the reference of clothing construct. So the making methods of references and manufacturers are compared and analyzed in this study In references, there are many hand work and sub-work because they are for a person who make own clothes. In contrast, manufacturers have to product many variety clothes of good quality for many people and think the production cost of clothes. They use more simple and efficient method that include their know-how to meet changing fashion situation. In making methods of skirts and slacks, differences between references and manufacturer are in sewing of waist band and zippers and location of interlining. Manufacturers use variedly sewing method of waist band according to material and their experience. Especially handling for wrong side inseam of waist band is distinct between references and manufacturers. References have basic and detail work and manufacturers know processing order having even grade work to keep continuous production. The making method of clothes have to change and improve according to the situation. The more useful making method get to include their merits and references need to add more practical method and knowledge.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.13-28
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• 2006

The object of this study lies on classifying the size, which is mostly favored in Korea where the wedding dress is usually regarded as an article for rent, and on suggesting the range of sleeve design and that of neck line of bodice. For that, I extracted the average size by analyzing and researching the standard size of actual bodice from real wedding dress manufacturing company. According to the result of the research I named the standard size of Korean wedding dress for rent as 'WM' which has the girth of 88cm and the waist measure of 69cm. Based on the size 'WM', I also named the size 'WS' which has the girth of 82cm with extra length of 6cm up and down and the waist measure of 64cm with extra length of 5cm, and the size 'WL' which has the girth of 94cm and the waist measure of 74cm with same extra length as the size 'WS'. The extra space for the inseam of the back is 3 inches for left and right for all sizes and the mark of body size is standardized as 'girth-waist measure'. After that, I suggested the design types of sleeves and neck line of bodice which defined as its size by classifying the bodice of wedding dress based on its size. Generally the neck line of the tank top style has the widest range of wearable size, and the high neck line and bateau neck line types have the narrowest range. And the sleeveless type has the widest range of wearable size while the raglan type has the narrowest one.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.113-122
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• 2006

In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.152-168
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a design prototype of outdoor-wear which is suitable for trekking. For achieving this purpose, 6 factors(bodice, sleeve, hood, pockets, opening, hem-line) considered for clothing function were selected, classified, and complemented based on the survey of literature and the research of 185 designs in 12 outdoor-wear brands. The results are as follows; The removable hood and 4DM sleeve style with the elastic band and velcro for the cuffs was the most preferred in the detail design on the brand research. And also the ventilation function and 1 or 2 diagonal in-seam pocket, covered zipper was preferred. Based on this result, two design prototypes of men's outdoor-wear for trekking were suggested; jacket 1 has a slim waist line and a hip length. Front opening has a zip and placket for windproof effect. There is a detachable hood with stopper around the head line. 4DM sleeve and elastic band inserted at the end of sleeve, so that prevent the hem-line raising. Two inseam pocket is placed slightly diagonal. Jacket 2 is a hood jacket with a york. The Jacket has a little roomier in waist and a hip length. Front opening is fastened by a waterproof zip. It has a 4DM sleeve and a princess line to make it placed two pocket which have ventilation functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1524-1535
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to establish a sizing system according to size and dimension whereby manufactured pants can be classified and develop men’s formal pants pattern based on the analysis of ready-made and educational pants pattern. The first, we surveyed the sizing and the basic pants patterns of the men’s ready-made wear companies, Secondly, through the survey data of the domestic men’ready-mad clothing industry, we proposed a new sizing system. Lastly, after compared three different types of ready-mad pants manufactured according to their patterns and an additional type of pants made after the educational pattern, the new men’s basic pants pattern were developed. The findings were as follows: 1. Survey of the domestic ready-mad garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing system: moreover, they each used its own unique patterns which appeared to be resulted from a combination of two factors : the experience of a patterner and foreign know-how technology. 2. New sizing system was developed with 12 steps from size 74-88 to size 96-106 based on the high frequencies of the companies’3. New basic patterns for men’s formal pants were developed: Inseam length = 80cm, crotch line = H/4+4.6cm, pants ham = 23.5cm as basic lines and front waist girth =W/4+9.1cm as drafting line. 4. the superiority of the new basic patterns were been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.827-839
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• 2009

Sizing system of Korean structural firefighting protective clothing that is national approved should be met for specification of structural firefighting protective clothing that is identified by Ministry of Public Administration and Security(MOPAS). However if you look over the specification of sizing system, the standard is based on only 'height' and the others are indicated as the size of completed product. KS K ISO 13688 and EN 340 which is met on ISO 13688 which indicates sizing system about protective clothing has the standards of height, chest and waist circumference. Also NFPA 1971 that has standards of sizing system is based on chest circumference, cervical to wrist length, waist circumference and inseam. That is different from Korean standards. Therefore, fire fighting protective clothing standards which is based on only height should be compensated and not be relied on foreign standards like ISO. It is indispensable for developing our own sizing system of structural fire fighting protective clothing. In this studying, Korean new sizing system of structural fire fighting protective clothing was developed for providing basic information of ergonomic structural fire fighting protective clothing. The analyzed target age was between 20 and 59 years old fire fighter who extinguish the fire. And it was analyzed by 3D measurement among data of the $5^{th}$ Size Korea. On conclusion, in case of structural fire fighting protective clothing coat, physical dimension was to be chest circumference, cervical to wrist length. Three dimensions as 5cm space of circumference and four dimensions as 2.5cm space of cervical to wrist length were derived, which means that totally 12 dimensions were defined. Dimension standards of pants was based on the analysis of waist circumference and crotch height. Six dimensions as 5cm space of waist circumference and three dimensions as 5cm space of crotch height were derived, which means that totally 14 dimensions were defined.

• Korean Journal of Applied Biomechanics
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.417-423
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to compare two saddle height determination methods by the effectiveness of pedal reaction force. Ten male subjects (age: $24.0{\pm}2.4years$, height: $175.1{\pm}5.4cm$, weight: $69.3{\pm}11.1kg$, inseam: $77.8{\pm}4.5cm$) participated in three minutes, 60 rpm cycle pedaling tests with the same load and cadence. Subject's saddle height was determined by $25^{\circ}$ knee flexion angle (K25) when the pedal crank was at the 6 o'clock position (knee angle method) and 97% (T97), 100% (T100), 103% (T103) of trochanter height (trochanteric method). The RF (resultant force), EF (effective force), and IE (index of effectiveness) were compared by measuring 3D motion and 3-axis pedal reaction force data during 4 pedaling phases (phase1: $330^{\circ}-30^{\circ}$, phase2: $30^{\circ}-150^{\circ}$, phase3: $150^{\circ}-210$, phase4: $210^{\circ}-330^{\circ}$). Results showed that there were significant differences in EF at phase1 between T97 and K25, in EF at phase4 between T100 and T103, in IE at total phase between T97 and K25, between T100 and T103, in IE at phase1 & phase2 between T97 and K25. There was higher IE in the K25 than any other saddle heights, which means that K25 was better pedaling effectiveness than the trochanteric method. Therefore it was suggested the saddle height as 103.7% of trochanter height that converted from K25.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.76-90
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• 2015

This is a basic study of the two remaining armors (artifacts number K2366, K2368) from the late Joseon dynasty that is part of the Korean costume collection, which is preserved in the Mission Museum of Saint Ottilien in Germany. The armor No. 1 (artifacts number K2366) is a coat-styled armor with brass studs. It has a U-shaped neckline with the non-overlapping collars and sleeve straight-lined inseam. The armor No. 1 has the Mu to the sides and is not back slit. Both its inner and outer material are padded with cotton. Leather mails are attached on the inner lining, and studs are attached on the outer lining to match the leather mails. For this reason, the armor No. 1 can be named MyeonPiGab (brass studded armor consisting of a cotton coat with internal leather mails). The outer material is faded to have the natural white, or antique white look and the patterns on it are indigo blue. The inner material is blue, but the original color is unknown since it is faded. The lotus blossoms and vine patterns are dyed on the surface of the outer material and a name is written on the inner material. The armor No. 1 was worn between the late 17th century and the 19th century. It is estimated that it was worn by military officers who were above the mid-rank in the end of the Joseon dynasty. The armor No. 2 (artifacts number K2368) is a coat-styled armor with brass studs and a low-cut U-shaped neckline. The armor No. 2 has a slit on the left armpit and a string around it. Studs are evenly attached on the armor. The iron mails are attached to the left chest area on its inner lining. It seems that it was designed with both formality and functionality in mind. The outer material is red flannel, the inner material is blue satin and the pads are cheesecloth. The side of its collars, cuffs, front lines, sidelines, back slit, and bottom lines are trimmed with fur. There are armors called "JeonCheolGap (brass studded armor consisting of a felt coat with internal iron mails)," which is similar to the armor No. 2, however, the similarities are limited because they are not made of the same material nor do they follow the same principle of nomenclature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.873-886
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• 2014

This study conducted a survey on jean pants that targeted males in the 20s in order to select preferred brands for skinny jean pants. Preliminary data for the pattern development of skinny jean pants was presented through functionality evaluation, appearance evaluation and pattern analysis. The results were as follows. 1. The result of survey targeting males in the 20s to select the design and brand name of jean pants showed that skinny jean pants were selected as the most favorite type of jean pants to wear; in addition, non-brand products and brand names such as Uniqlo and Levi's were also preferred. 2. The result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand received a high score in all items except for items regarding the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference, S brand received a high score as well as a low score, and N brand received a low score in general. The result of appearance evaluation showed that L brand for the waist height and waist circumference, N brand for the brand crotch circumference, posterior crotch length and knee circumference, and S brand and N brand for the length of pants were preferred. 3. The result of pattern measurements analysis from the result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand provided a large pattern measurement for the waist height, L brand provided less ease due to small pattern measurements for waist circumference; in addition, N brand for the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference were preferred. 4. The analysis result shows that a ease of 5cm based on the belly band which is 3.5cm below the belt width is proper for the waist circumference when designing a skinny jean pant pattern and 4cm for the hip circumference and 32.5cm for the ease of crotch circumference are proper, -0.4-0cm for the ease of mid-thigh circumference and knee circumference in consideration of human body measurements; therefore, 80.1-80.5cm for inseam as the length from the crotch height to the leg length, 25.7cm for vertical hip length and 53.0cm for crotch length are proper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.69-84
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• 1996

The main current of ancient Korean thought is based on Yuk(易) : which solves the principle of creation of universe letter(文字) which is the principle of geometry and three elements thought of circle square . It's related to the creation principle of the universe and regarded as a sign that demons-trates shows the way to read the mathematical principle. The original form of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is represents the structure of hu-man body which reflects a small universe. So a good structure and meaning of the human body is well read in the formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) and that is a good symbolization of the clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) as the space of small universe. The good formation of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) could be shown by cutting out straight bending twisting and turning each straitly cutting piece is applied to its trans-tormation. Geametical formation with obvious sym-metric dividing of front-back left-right and top-bottom is well shown in Korean clothes by twisting Yuk(易) or m bius strips. So we can find out whole formation by representing only either 'front and back' or 'left and right' and also sa-pok(사폭) of man's trousers seop(섶) of jeo-go-ri(short jacket 저고리) kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) of Sam-hwai-jang jeo-go-ri (삼회장 저고리), mu(무) of jig-ryung(straight collar and long and wide sleeved robe, 直領) trouser wide and ga-rae-ba-dae(가래바대) of dan-cok-kok(woman's under trousers). The formation line of Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is based on theprinciple of unlimited m bius strips by twisting of turning direction from universal principle and original basic form is not changd even by turning in-side out. Unity of the whole and part in Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) could be found in nonorientable thought(非始原思想) which represents the unity and dependence kil(길) of jeo-go-ri(short jacket, 저고리) and po(long and wide sleeved robe, 袍). Selva-gewise(식서방향) of sleeves and seam of out-side of kil(길) and outside of seop(섶) are directed to outside of seop(섶) inside of seop(섶) is to kil and direction of inseam of kheut-dong(끝동) and kyut-ma-gi(곁마기) is directed to sleeves. Korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) is usually made by cutting fabric for several parts and sewing them and the way to make Korean clothes is deeply related to the theory of chon-pu-kyung jong-il and il-seok -sam-geuk. As the development of men's consciousness is pro-gressed from total separation to separation and superseparation. Sewing process of korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) can be make single dimension to double or triple dimension of korean clothes(Han-Bock, 韓服) silhoutte bacause it can be include principle of topology as noneuclity.