• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.35-41
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• 2002

천해역에서 관찰되는 장주기파는 발생 기구에 따라서 surf beat, setdown wave, locked wave, 또는 Far-infra-gravity wave 등으로 다양하게 불리 우며, 모두 0.5-수 분대의 주기를 갖는다. 이들은 정의에 따라 약간씩 다르기는 하지만 모두 계류된 선박의 동요뿐만 아니라 해안선 침식과도 밀접한 관련이 있다는 것이 일반적으로 인정되고있다(가등 등, 1989). (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.226-235
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• 2011

Field measurements of the winds and waves were carried out for one year at multiple locations inside and outside of the Pohang New Harbor in order to clarify the reason of downtimes frequently occurring at most of the harbor quays and to establish an efficient countermeasure. In addition, the downtime records of the quays and precipitation data provided by Korea Meteorological Agency were acquired for mutual comparison and comprehensive analysis of the cause of downtimes. Except the influence of precipitation, it was found that the downtimes occurred when the height of waves entering into the harbor incurred by either one of swell, wind seas, or mixture of both, exceeded a threshold. The seiche whose period ranges from 5 to 80 minutes, which was suspected as a possible cause of the downtimes, is shown to have no direct relation with the downtimes. Meanwhile, the height of far-infra-gravity waves whose period ranges between 0.5 and 3 minutes, propagating to the harbor mouth forced by short period waves, showed almost proportional relationship with the height of short period waves. Based on the result of this study, it is concluded that the downtime problems of Pohang New Harbor can be greatly improved by effectively preventing the entrance of short period waves such as swell or wind seas.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.595-608
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• 2013

This paper is proposed the computation method of moored ship motion considering harbor resonance, and estimated that the harbor resonance have an effect on moored ship motion. The computation of harbor resonance was used CGWAVE model and the computation of moored sip motion was used the Green function method expressed by three dimensions. This method was verified with the field observation data of moored ship motion, and the application of actual harbor was investigated with wave field data and down time record data in Pohang New Harbor. The resonance periods in Pohang New Harbor that obtained from wave field data were 80, 33, 23, 8 minute, which are the long waves, and 42, 54, 60 second, which are the infra-gravity waves inside harbor slip. The simulated results of harbor resonance were corresponded with the wave field data. This study was investigated on 5,000 ton, 10,000 ton and 30,000 ton ship sized in Pier 8 of Pohang New Harbor that the harbor resonance has effect on moored ship motion from simulated results of ship motion in case of included resonance and excluded resonance. In case of included resonance, the ship motion have increased by 12~400 percent when compared with results of excluded resonance. We could find that the harbor resonance have still more an effect on the surge and heave motions of a large size ship and the roll and yaw motions of a small size ship.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2020

In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude A_B and length L_B of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.141-146
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• 2003

Time seres of suspended sediment concentration, surface elevation and velocity were measured and analysed to investigate the role of waves and the predominance of infra-gravity wave component for sediment suspension phenomena in the surf zone. For the investigation in detail, we adopted the cross spectral analysis method between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave, and ensemble average analysis method about long-period wave component, which is dominant to sediment suspension in the measurement point. The obtained results are summarized as follows: 1) The relationship between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave is stronger for the long-period standing wave components(about 60s and 30s) than the long wave components(about 100s), which have the most energetic power, 2) and also, it is cleared that sediment concentration is increased in the case of the phase, the velocity components of the first mode long-period standing wave(60sec) were accelerated toward on-shore direction, that is, the water surface in offshore side is higher than on-shore side.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.455-463
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• 2003

Time series of suspended sediment concentration, surface elevation and velocity were measured and analysed to investigate the role of waves and the predominance of infra-gravity wave component for sediment suspension phenomena in the surf zone. For the investigation in detail, we adopted the cross spectral analysis method between suspended sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave, and ensemble average analysis method about long-period wave component, which is dominant to sediment suspension in the measurement point. The obtained results are summarized as follows: 1)The relationship between suspended sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave is stronger for the long-period standing wave components(about 60s and 30s where the nodal point of the first mode and the anti-nodal point of the second mode are located at the measurement point, respectively) than the long wave components(about 100s), which have the most energetic power, 2) and also, it is cleared that suspended sediment concentration is increased in the case of the phase, the velocity components of the first mode long-period standing wave(60sec) were accelerated toward on-shore direction, that is, the water surface in offshore side is higher than on-shore side.