• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1997.10a
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• pp.39-44
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• 1997

As wind waves generated in deep water approach nearshore zone, they experience various physical phenomena caused by bathymetric variations, nonlinear interactions among different wave components and interferences with man-made coastal structures. Among these, the bathymetric variations may play a significant role in the change of wave climate. The accurate calculation of reflection and transmission coefficients of incident waves over a bottom topography is indispensible for the proper and economical design of coastal structures. (omitted)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.212-218
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• 2008

A possible source of resonant problems in a harbor is long waves generated by incident wave groups. The analytical solutions of the governing equations of second-order long waves derived using a multiple-scale perturbation method consist of the locked and free long waves. The locked long waves propagate at some group velocity, whereas the free long waves propagate at the shallow-water speed. To study the resonance of free long waves, a trapezoidally varying topography is employed. With certain combinations of incident angle, water depth, and ambient current velocity, free long waves can be trapped and resonated.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.1 s.74
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• pp.7-17
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• 2007

Based on the Boussinesq wave model, the wave distribution in the Chagui-Do sea area in Jeju was simulated by applying the directional irregular waves at an incident boundary. The time and spatial variations of monthly mean wave height and period were investigated, which aims to provide basic information on optimal sites for wave power generation. The grid size and time interval of the Boussinesq wave model were validated by examining wave distributions around a surface piercing wall, fixed at sea bottom with a constant slope. Except for the summer season, the significant wave height is dominated by wind waves and appears to be relatively high at the north sea of Chagui-Do, which is open to the ocean, while it is remarkably reduced at the rear sea of Chagui-Do because of its blocking effect on incident waves. In the summer, the significant wave height is higher at the south sea, and it is dominated by the swell waves, which is contributed by the strong south-west wind. The magnitude of significant wave height is the largest in the winter and the lowest in the spring. Annual average of the significant wave height is distinctively high at the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast, due to a steep variation of water depth and corresponding wave focusing effect. The seasonal and spatial distribution of the wave period around Chagui-Do sea reveals very similar characteristics to the significant wave height. It is suggested that the west sea close to the Chagui-Do coast is the mast promising site for wave power generation.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.34-38
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• 2010

Field investigations have been carried out in two 60-day stages on the surf beat low frequency waves in Anzali port, one of the main commercial ports in Iran, located in southwest coast of the Caspian Sea. The characteristics of significant water waves were measured at three metering stations in the sea, one at the entrance of the port and three in the basin. The measured data were inspected to investigate the surf beat negative effects on the tranquility of the port. Using field measurements and complementary numerical modeling, the response of the basin to the infra-gravity long waves was inspected for a range of wave frequencies. It was concluded that the water surface fluctuations in the port is strongly related to the incident wave period. The long waves with periods of about 45s were recognized as the worst cases for water surfaceperturbation in the port. For wave periods higher than the mentioned range, the order of fluctuation was generally low.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2008.05a
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• pp.2141-2145
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• 2008

Three kind of system composed with buoyant flap hinged at the sea floor are modeled experimentally. The mechanically coupled system provides shelter by reflecting incident waves and by attenuating wave energy through structural and viscous damping. The characteristics of wave reflection, transmission and dynamic angle of the flap oscillation for various conditions were investigated. The structure can minimize wave transmission by attaching offshore wing wall.

• Water for future
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.259-266
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• 1986

A numerical study of the process of wave deformation, such as reflection and transmission coefficients and wave forms with bottom change was carried out by Boundary Element Method using linear elements. It is assumed that the incident wave is normal and oblique to the bottom and the wave may be described by linear theory The accuracy of the computational scheme is investigated by comparing the results of other researchers in the following several cases. (1) Simple and sloping stepped bottom geometry (2) Submerged breakater type bottom geometry (3) Trench type bottom geometry

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.449-457
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• 1998

Using a numerical model solving the shallow-water equations, unusual huge run-up heights observed in the lees of both Babi and Okushiri islands were investigated in detail. The effects of incident tsunami widths were particularly examined by adjusting the transverse length of the wave-maker in laboratory and numerical experiments. The calculated run-up heights were compared with the laboratory experimental data. It has been found that the run-up heights in the lee of a conical island are strongly dependent on the ratio of a transverse length of incident tsuanmis to a base diameter of the island. Keywords : shallow-water equations, tsunami, run-up height, conical island.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.44-54
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• 2015

Breakwaters are the coastal structures constructed either perpendicular (shore connected) or parallel (detached) to the coast. The main function of breakwater is to create a tranquil medium on its leeside by reflecting the waves and also dissipating the wave energy arriving from seaside, resulting in ease of manoeuvrability to boats or ships to their berthing places. Different types of breakwaters are being used at present, such as rubble mound breakwater, vertical wall type breakwater and composite breakwater. The objective of this paper is to investigate reflection coefficients (Kr) and dissipation (loss) coefficients (Kl) for physical models of Quarter circle caisson breakwater of three different radii of 0.550 m, 0.575 m and 0.600 m with S/D ratio of 2.5 (S=spacing between perforations, D=diameter of perforations). The models were tested in the monochromatic wave flume of the department, for different incident wave heights (Hi), Wave periods (T) and water depths (d). It was observed that reflection coefficient increased with increase in the wave steepness (Hi/gT2) and decreased with increase in depth parameter (d/gT2) and hs/d (Height of structure including rubble base/depth of water). The loss coefficient decreased with increase in the wave steepness and increased with increase in depth parameter and hs/d.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.3B
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• pp.323-334
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• 2008

Present study examined the functionality of the solitary wave (tsunami) control of the two-rowed porous submerged breakwater by numerical experiments, using a numerical wave tank which is based on the Navier-Stokes equation to explain fluid fields and uses a Volume of Fluid (VOF) method to capture the free water surface. Solitary wave was generated by the internal wave source installed within the computational zone in the numerical wave tank and its wave transformations by structure were compared with those in the previous study. Comparisons with the precious numerical results showed a good agreement. Based on these results, several tow-dimensional numerical modeling investigations of the water fields, including wave transformations, reflection, transmission and energy flux, by the one- and two-rowed permeable submerged breakwater under solitary waves were performed. Even if, it is a research of the limited scope, in case of two-rowed permeable submerged breakwater with $h_0/h=0.925$ ($h_0$ is height of submerged breakwater and h is water depth), the wave height damping in range of $l/L_{eff}>0.4$($L_{eff}$ is effective distance of solitary wave) can reach nearly 60% of the incident wave height. In addition, it is found that reflection coefficient increases nearly 47% and transmission coefficient decreases nearly 18% than one-rowed one. The numerical results revealed that the tow-rowed submerged breakwater can control the incident solitary wave economically and more efficiently than the one-rowed one.

• Water for future
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.70-80
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• 1976

The efficient breakwater design requires a knowledge of the behaviour of the waves passing the breakwater. Wave Diffraction is an important factor and phenomeon in this behaviour. The diffraction ocean waves entering a gap in a breakwater normal to the incident wave direction in water of uniform depth has been investigated, applying a solution previously given in the author's paper, based on the theory of light diffraction by Sommerfeld. The wave profiles and heights on both the leeward side of the breakwater and the gap side have been studied and summarized in the form of diagrams with diffraction coefficients in range of x/L, y/L 0∼100, b/L=0.5∼12, with some extension of the diagrams made previously. The results of the theoretical approaches have not been experimentally verified. The theory ad computation methods with computer program in Fortran IV developed in this study make an efficient use for estimating the diffraction about a breakwater gap.