• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.204-221
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• 2020

East Asian countries share a culture of perfuming clothes. The prosperity of the Maritime Silk Road and the incense trade are direct factors that have led to the development of incense culture. Perfuming clothes is a method of applying fragrance by burning incense. The Chinese could make an incense mixture with various types of incense, and records demonstrating use of perfuming clothes tools (熏籠) show that they might have perfumed clothes with incense mixtures. During the Tang dynasty, the incense trade thrived. Examples of ancient literature such as 『千金要方』, 『香譜』, 『香乘』 describe how to make incense for perfuming clothes and how to perfume clothes. 『桂海虞衡志』 and 『諸蕃志』 shows trade partners and goods. Incense was introduced to Korea alongside Buddhist culture. 『買新羅物解』 shows Silla traded incense with Japan. One of the trade goods recorded in 『買新羅物解』 is perfuming cloth incense (熏衣香), which establishes that Silla performed perfuming clothes at that time. During the Goryeo dynasty, Goryeo exported musk as well as ginseng. The royal family burned incense from the Song royal family. Noblewomen preferred sachets. The use of this dress continued into the Joseon dynasty. 『買新羅物解』 showed that Japan imported incense from Silla. 『The tale of Genji』 illustrates Heian nobles' incense culture, perfuming clothes culture, and trade of incense. Perfuming clothes tools became essential articles for marriage purposes and it developed in a practical shape. The Champa had a perfuming clothes culture. It is described on 『諸蕃志』. As Agilawood is found in Tongking, and Tongking was neighbor to the Champa and China, they might have had a perfuming clothes culture as well. Korea, China, Japan, and Vietnam shared a perfuming clothes culture. We can identify universality and commonality in the purpose of perfuming clothes, time of development, the method of making the incense mixture for perfuming clothes, the method of perfuming clothes, the tools, the gender of perfumer, and the type of herbs and spices.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.101-114
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• 2023

This study aimed to create globally acceptable Hanbok-inspired work uniforms, by developing practical designs and providing useful resources for incorporating Hanbok characteristics into office attire. First, to establish the elements that the Hanbok work uniform should have, the definition and characteristics of service clothes and preferences for the process of modernization of traditional Hanbok were reviewed through a review of the preceding studies. For the Hanbok work uniform design, a total of 4 pieces, 2 for each male and female, were planned, a schematic diagram was created, and the design was modified after evaluation by fashion design experts. I made a pattern of the modified design with a CAD program, imported it into CLO 3D to produce a virtual costume, and confirmed the final design draft. Work uniform design has symbolism, functionality, and aesthetics as its characteristics. The functionality of the Hanbok work uniform designed in this study is suitable for the season, and it was designed to increase the efficiency of work when worn for a long time. The design was focused on the development of materials and patterns in consideration of comfort and activity. The esthetic nature of hanbok-inspired work clothes was intended to reveal details that could highlight the silhouette of the human body and reflect the beauty of hanbok.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.87-96
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• 2001

The purpose of this investigation is to investigate exact information for Korean consumer's the wearing and purchasing behavior of the imported fashion brand. The subjects were 118 female and shopper came shopping in Kang-Nam gu, Seoul. The subjects is buyer purchase the direct import-fashion brand. A questionnaire was surveyed through direct interviews. Data was processed by a computer(SAS) and analyzed by using frequency, percentage, $x^2$-test. The results of this investigation are as follows: 1. The consumer were surveyed to be more satisfy for the interior goods than satisfy for the direct import-fashion brand in the good's quality, character expression, lasting quality, brand, design, comfort etc. 2. The possession number were surveyed to possess mostly 1 - 2 suits. 3. The consumer's view for the clothing-size were surveyed to be a difference between imported fashion brand. 4. The consumer's selection for the clothing-size were surveyed to put on clothes directly, especially more young women than old women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.133-148
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• 2016

This study examined dahoe(多繪-braided cord) and mangsu(網綬-ornament of husu for ceremonial dress) used in myeon gwan(冕冠), daedae(大帶), and husu(後綬) among royal formal dresses in the Joseon Dynasty(1392-1910) based on historical materials including literature, relics, and paintings. The results of this study are as follows. In myeon-gwan, dahoe was used for cap strings, goeing(紘) and yeong(纓). Cap strings were applied to the king, the Crown Prince, and the eldest son of the Crown Prince regardless of their status, and they showed differences among the periods. Both goeing and yeong were used during the early period of Joseon, and then only yeong was used in the late period. As goeing was removed and only yeong was used in the late period, patterns combining goeing and yeong, in color and wearing method, appeared. Dahoe used in cap strings is dongdahoe(童多繪-a kind of braided cord). In daedae, 'nyuyak(紐約)' was tied up to its fastening part. The material of nyuyak was changed from dongdahoe in the early Joseon Dynasty to guangdahoe(廣多繪-a kind of braided cord) in the late period, and the method of using it was also changed. Husu was imported from Beijing in China during the early period of the Joseon Dynasty, but in 1747, it was regulated to be woven in Joseon, and at that time, King Yeongjo attempted to restore the institution of weaving husu with "320 su(首)," namely, 6,400 strands as specified for the status of a prince of the Ming Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.17-26
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• 1986

War has been a reason for the culture of one conservative country to make contact with the culture of another country. The Crusade, among other wars, caused cultural exchange between the orient and the occident and had a great influence on the western costume. This paper has made an attempt to find out the influence of the Crusade with respect to the cultural exchange between the orient and the Occident and to study the influence which the Crusade has had on the western costume. The Crusade was the war in which the European Christians tried to retake the Holy Land, Jerusalem, from the Islamites through the 11th century to the 13th century. As a result of this war,the autyority of the Pope was weakned, the nobles were ruined and royal authority was consolidated. Due to the contact with the Orient, trade had become active, cityes had developed and the middle class of rich merchant had grown. Gothic architecture also appeared in the Occident at this time due to the religious influence of the Crusade. Turban type headdress and the brink decoration of clothes had been very popular under the influence of the Orient. Embroidery and applique had developed and silk fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more gorgeous and luxurious. Many accessories were imported from the Orient. The Oriental culture contributed to the use of rich and bright colorsm, various ornaments and splendid textiles of the western costume. Owing to the influence of war itself, many costumes had been newly made in order to adapt to the hot desert climates of the Orient. Blazon decorations, uniforms and armour had also developed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.105-115
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• 1997

The fashion clothing market is changing due to the appearance of new consumer group. And the import of foreign brand clothing is highly increasing. The purpose of this study is to help the domestic apparel companies set better market-ing strategy by studying the relation between fashion ivolvement and the purchase be-havior of foreign brand clothing. Subjects were 498 new generation women living Seoul metropolitan area. Data were obtained by questionnaire and analyzed by SPSS package. The main findings of this study are as follows; 1. The result of factor-analysis of the fashion involvement's variables were classified into 8 factors. 2. Consumer's main purpose of buying new clothes were To coordinate clothes with each other' 3. Consumers evaluated every clothing factors: color fit etc of foreign brand very highly except the price. 4. The factor that consumers consider most when choosing clothes is color design fit de-tail texture and brand knowledge in order. 5. the advertizing method that consumers care the most was shop and window display. 6. 'Because design and color are good' were the most important factor as motive of buying foreign brand clothing. 7. Most consumers still bought domestic brand clothing. 7. Most consumers still bought domestic brand clothing. 8. Monthly income and purchase of foreign brand were positively related 9. All variables 2of fashion involment were positively related with the purchase of foreign brand 10. Consumers with higher monthly income did not care much about 'Weather or occasion' when buying clothes. And consumers living in Kangnam(compared with consumers linving in Kangbuk) cared more about personality and bought more foreign brand. 'Social and econ-omic status' were highly related with monthly income residence and purchase of foreign brand clothing 11. Older consumers cared more about color figure texture and fit than younger con-sumer. Monthly income were positively re-lated with design color and figure. Residence were highly related with color and figure. Pur-chase of foreign brand clothing were positively related with design color figure and fit. 12. Younger consumers cared more about brand knowledge. And the purchase of foreign brand clothing were positively related with de-sign detail and brand knowledge. 13. Consumers with foreign brand's purchase experience showed negative relation between ;foreign brand's purchasing experience' and 'Weather or occasion' 14. Consumers with no foreign brand's pur-chasing experience showed negative relation between fashion innovativeness and figure. 15. Consumers with no foreign brand's pur-chasing experience showed positive relation between fit and fashion opinion exchange. The study shows that colors is most import-ant factor in purchasing clothes. And imported brands are very strong in terms of proposing various and unique colors. not all brands succeeded in Korea. Those brands that failed to group consumers have the following problems. Therefore it is critical to review the above factors when importing the foreign brand.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.182-198
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the previous make-up studies. A number of publications and journals were reviewed and analyzed carefully. The results of review and analysis were as follows: There were many different subjects in make-up studies and They can be divided into ten types : cosmetics purchase behavior, change of make-up culture and comparison, make-up trend by era, cosmetics industry's standing of today and strategy, art trend in make-up, brand preference of cosmetics, make up attitude, recognition about imported cosmetics and purchase behavior, color preference of cosmetics, the relationship between self-concept and make-up. In general, the cosmetic purchase behavior studies are conducted most actively. According to result that analyze existent study, special duality of cosmetics purchase action appears very variously according to standard of classification of study target and study target. But, study target and method of study are not various, and purchase behavior study collected with make-un and clothes is yew lacking. Therefore, in this study, wished to discover problem of virtue study because analyzes studies about previous make-up and present forward study direction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.65-81
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• 1981

I referred to documents to study the origin and the progressing process of textiles. Cotton seeds were first imported from China by Mun, Ik Jem at the end of the era of Koryeo, and cotton had several different names such as mok-myen, cho-myen, gil-pae, baek-chep-za, tap-po, ban-ki-wha, dong-yep-po and so on. Since the era of the Three Kingdoms, people had heard of cloth of superior quality but it was not certain whether it was imported from China or made in our country. It seems that cotton was not made during that period, white silk, hemp cloth, and ramie fabric were produced. At that time, linen was called cotton by mistake. After importing cotton seeds from China, all the people began to plant them and made their clothes from them. At the beginning of the Yi Dynasty, the weaving technique was dependent on China. However, the government persuaded farmers to plant them. At that time cotton was used as a means of purchasing instead of money. Silkworms raising started during the era of the Three Kingdoms and it was widely spread at the beginning of the Yi Dynasty. In order to encourage sericulture' spinning and weaving instruments were installed in the royal palace and the queen with sher court maids demonstrated how to spin and weave. The activity was named "chin-jam-ye." Linen was the representative of all textiles and it was also very popular. The technique of weaving had already been highly developed at the era of Silla. During the era of the Three Kingdoms people used "bang-chu-cha" as a weaving instrument. They discovered several new hand machines in the period of the Yi Dynasty: they were instrument of removing seeds, spinning wheel, hemp cloth loom and so on, and we find the remains of them these days.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.