• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.5-20
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• 2000

Through his geometric design, the Cyprus born fashion designer Hussein Chalayan raises intriguing questions about the very fact of wearing clothes. By purposefully displacing the function of each part of the clothing, such as neck line, hem line, seam, sleeve, etc., Chalayan transforms the meaning of the body that wears clothes. of the human subject as a sovereign possessor of the clothing and the visibility related to fashion. This transformation is achieved by distorting the spaces of his clothing in an unorthodox way. This thesis argues that the significance of such a practice can not be properly understood without relation to the current debate on deconstructionism under way in humanities. Instead of immediately negating the modern frame of Ideas and practices, deconstructionism asks what the assumptions for the modern regime of truth is. In this process, things that lead human beings to sovereign master of knowledge and truth such as reason, subject, body and vision are questioned. In the same context, Chalayan's design not only forces us to rethink the very function of dividing inside and outside by the clothing but also the meaning of boundary operating in numerous sites of modern life. As the human subject is not something pre-given but constructed according to the cultural representation, to which the clothing belongs, fashion can be evaluated to be an active ingredient of constructing the subject. Therefore, Hussein Chalayan's design is at the cross road between the modern and the postmodern regime of fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.89-100
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• 2008

This article aims to research and analyze expressional characteristics of media art in Hussein Chalayan's fashion works. Media technology has made rapid progress over every society, in which it enables multi-dimensional communication. Under this social background, media art can use a multiplicity of technologies and go public. Media art had great influences in fashion with the leading designer as Hussein Chalayan. His works has been selected from the 90s up until 2008 focusing on expressional characteristics of media art by a professional group of fashion design. By classifying and analyzing of Hussein Chalayan's fashion works, expressional characteristics of media art displayed from works of the late 90s, and in recent years, the use of various technologies has increased. Expressional characteristics of media art in his works have been re-classified as interactivity, transfonnation, visualization, and transparency. First, interactivity by the wearer's action and emotional change is effective on emotional express, body protection and the causing of interest. Second, transfonnation by the wearer's action, functioning, and emotional change is influenced by convenience, body protection, and causing concern. Third, immateriality in media art is divided into visualization and transparency, and in fashion structural and material characteristics. Visualization by internal luminous source and digital images influences immersion and expression on fantasy images. Fourth, transparency by immaterial characteristics and piled up images affects openness and camouflage. Development of material and technology paves the way for expressional characteristics of media art in fashion. The trend of Hussein Chalayan's works moves towards emotional high-tech design with technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.77-93
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze on the fashion collection of Hussein Chalayan who has changed the concept of fashion design in the 21st century and has pioneered in the new vision of fashion. This study will give a new perspective and perception of fashion as a conceptual and ideological art. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, Hussein Chalayan's multicultural ideas and interdisciplinary approaches which based in national speciality are the unique elements in his works. Second, Hussein Chalayan intends to present his works as an expression of conception. He has expressed the clothes which speaks the form of nature, symbolizes the combination of culture, visualizes time and space and investigates the existence of human being. Third, Hussein Chalayan has asked an endless question about existence of the human being. Furthermore, He has put a question about the relationship between time, space, history, nature and the human being. His trial to visualize the metaphysical conception of 'ego' and 'self' through his works of art makes him as the designer who represents the 21st century. Forth, Hussein Chalayan pursues the communication between the human being and the world. His works is made for human being and makes the human life as valuable thing. Because the clothes is completed when the human wears it, it can not exist without the relationship of human being. Fifth, Hussein Chalayan makes a various attempt to combine with different artistic field. Fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trial and combination beyond fashion field and this has to be a direction in the 21st century fashion. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.91-107
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the experimental design by using deconstructive design and mobile design depicted on Hussein Chalayan' works. Hussein Chalayan, the Turkish-Cypriot who is based in London, says' Challenging is the best word for me'. And so word, 'radical' that has difficult connotations was chosen for this study It implies two menainigs for the word. The first thing is "extreme" - something that is drastic. And 'Applied to clothes', it can probably mean "experimental". He has iconoclastic ideas and his ramp shows are always high on concept, experimentation of art and utility. His approach to fashion derives from philosophical and intellectual theories of deconstruction and mobility, which he expresses through his designs. Deconstructionism, in fashion, rejects customary rules and breaks all conventions. It questions aesthetic norms about bodily proportions and the criteria of beauty, emphasizes the adding on, or discovery of, an irrational moment, and reveals the processes of tailoring in clothing. The shape and the construction of the garment is more important than the color. Cuts. tears, asymmetries, matching different materials are among the most evident features of the deconstructive design. And Chalayan performed the mobile design of transforming furniture into clothes. Chair covers became dresses. a coffee table became a skirt which were designed by Chalayan, with geometric and architectural references. Chalayan says he was inspired by the idea of refugees fleeing. Besides Chalayan uses clothing as an art to reinterpret and reform the human body in a continuous tour de force of body/identity conceptualism and dressmaking. He reflect the body's function in the cultural context of architecture, science, or nature - and then attempt to translate his findings into clothing.dings into clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.221-230
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• 2007

This research was focused on the changes of layered techniques in Hussein Chalayan's collections. For this purpose, the layered techniques in 134 works from Chalayan's collections, 97S/S to 06S/S, which were obtained from fashion magazines and fashion internet site, were analyzed and classified into 15 groups. Layered techniques in his works apparently expressed his philosophy about deconstruction. Multilayered feeling was given through using various techniques such as one layer clothing which was showed like multi-layered clothing. Others were multi-layer clothing which felt like one layer, breaking the stereotyped line of clothing into atypical construction and using various materials or constructive lines which made the optical feeling like one layer or multi-layer clothing, and so on. These layered techniques in Chalayan's collections were differentiated into several categories, such as techniques which were revealed in every collections, techniques which were differentiated from one another collections, techniques which were continuously showed through three collections for connection with each collection, techniques which were used only for Spring/Summer season, and techniques which were uniquely showed in early collection or recent collections.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.27-38
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• 2008

In the 21st century, the development of technology overturned the paradigm of the entire society and culture, and the term 'high-tech' became generally accepted around the world by the momentous advances of technology. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of high-tech fashion by clarifying the characteristics of high-tech fashion, and to propose the proper approach toward the coming fashion. Hussein Chalayan shows the experimental and futuristic designs based on the cultural context of architecture and sculpture. Moreover, the scope of this study has been limited into Hussein Chalayan's recent works after the year 2000 up to 2007. High-tech architecture has been, in some ways, a response to pow technology a new aesthetic in contrast with standard modern architecture. High-tech architecture aimed to achieve a new industrial aesthetic, spurred on by the renewed faith in the progression of technology. However, no matter how prominent the industrial look appeared, the functional element of modern architecture has been very much retained. The characteristics of high-tech architecture that had been extracted by analyzing the antecedent studies were: technocism, transformability, and dynamism. Furthermore, the characteristics of high-tech fashion has been explained based on the characteristics of high-tech architecture. First, technocism is expressed either by the new technologized materials, and advanced digital technology. Second, transformability is expressed in the transformable clothing, which performs various functions. Third, dynamism is displayed in dynamic forms influenced by the technology of engineering. High-tech will be the dominant influence in fashion, and the designers will be enamored with the technologies of the new millenium. Architecture and fashion share the characteristics of high-tech, and their common cultural features is confirmed again.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.717-729
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• 2019

This study defines critical fashion designs and investigate its critical messages on fashion itself. The critical messages on fashion are categorized into two major issues of a fashion industry system and fashion consumer culture. This study contributes to the understanding of meaning and value for critical fashion messages that match critical art. As the research method, this study combines a literature review and case studies and the research scope focuses on cases that have appeared in fashion media since the 2000s when social critical messages in fashion began to emerge. The results of the study are as follows. Critical designers such as Viktor & Rolf, Elisa van Joolen, Issey Miyake, and Mary Ping have delivered messages challenging the nature of fashion industry system that criticize the cycle and limitation of a fashion system and pursues changes in perception of sustainability. The critical message on fashion consumer culture articulated by designers such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Hussein Chalayan, and Ricarda Bigolin & Nella Themelios insist on the formation of community while delivering a critical message on social, political, and cultural problems that raise the mechanism of social awareness through fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.101-117
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to consider the works of Nick Knight, the most influential fashion visual maker, to find out the characteristics of his works. For the research method, literature reviews were done by studying his book, viewing the articles on his official web site, reading journal review of his works and his interview articles. For the work analysis, fashion brands 'Christian Dior', 'Alexander McQueen', 'Martin Margiela', 'Hussein Chalayan' and 'Gareth Pugh' that have worked with Nick Knight were selected. The characteristics of his fashion works were derived from overall analysis of fashion visual works. The characteristics of Nick Knight's works are as follows. First is the 'innovation of image expression'. He used digital infra in advance and introduced digital images at the initial stage. He used fashion films as the means of communication and tried new image expressions in 3D. Second is 'breaking down the boundaries of creating process'. He worked with various field experts to make high quality works. He invited the public to participate in his creative process through the internet. Third is 'breaking down the categories of aesthetic expression'. He provided a wide variety of aesthetic standard and refused aesthetic stereotype. He broke the boundaries between fashion and art with a unique technique and high values.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.117-136
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze changes in high-tech fashion along with the types and characteristics of high-tech fashion that have appeared recently providing diverse material for the fashion field. High-tech fashion requires such research to learn how much distance one has in one's life. It is also meaningful to predict what direction high-tech fashion research may be needed. For research methods, previous research and literary studies were considered and photographs in which high-tech techniques were used were collected using the keyword 'high-tech fashion'. High-tech fashion types can be organized into the four types of luminescent types, mutual interaction types, 3D printing fashion, and virtual fashion. The research results were as follows. First, luminescent fashion was an important expression method of high-tech fashion. Materials for luminescent fashion first started with LED electric wire connections and many methods have been attempted with the appearance of electrically conductive clothing material, such as luminescent lasers and beam projectors. Second, interactive high-tech fashion often appears as variable fashion. The work of Hussein Chalayan, which was combined with advanced technology, set up a base for variable type interactive high-tech fashion in the 2000s. As bioengineering technology has developed, fashion that interacts with the environment without an energy source has appeared and the interaction among fashion, people, and the environment can be seen. Third, diverse forms of expressiveness in virtual reality such as 3D CLO shows a great difference with past high-tech fashion. Simple and diverse attempts made through virtual fittings reduce the limitations of time and space, permit interaction, and add a sense of reality through speed and dynamic physical beauty. Fourth, 3D printed fashion expresses complex and detailed clothing material that is different from those before with the development of computer 3D modeling technology. Modeling that can imitate geometric and bio-engineered structures is possible and mysterious feelings are passed on to people through creative expressions.