• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.26-39
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• 2012

This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.159-170
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• 2001

The culture and society environment plays major role in the development of Fashion and now in the 21st century, interest in Fashion is getting increased along with the rapid progress of advanced media development and information surge. Now it s the time to extend visual efficiency not only transmitting fashion image but also develop a creative product that satisfy the demander s needs. Currently it is very hard to express our subjective Korean "nationalism" in the Fashion since the various expression skill using western fashion illustration are dominant in our society. I have classified two components, fashion illustration and Korean painting in the theoretical circumstance. In fashion illustration circumstance, I examined the concept, usage, expression skill and history referring to historical documents. In Korean painting section, I considered coloring portrait concept, pattern, history, concept, and feature of the four gentlemanly plants. including the basic material of Korean-paper, Writing- Brush, Ink-Stone, Traditional-ink and also the history of itself. I have designed 8 products applying the concept of plum blossoms, orchids, chrysanthemums and bamboos that represent the most important part of the four gentlemanly plants, and also the expression skill of Korean coloring portrait.rait.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.941-955
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• 2003

In this study, the researcher investigated how tailored garment were accepted and developed in India where the traditional costumes, such as Sari and Dhothi, excluding the tailored process, were mainly worn. It is suspected that pants and coats were first introduced during the Kushan Dynasty but they scarcely influenced on the costumes of India. In the 7th Century when Islam made its entrance in India, pants and coats were not accepted in India due to the exclusive attitudes of Indians, Hindu. Pants and coats were worn locally as Indian costumes through the Islamic Mughul Empire in the 16th Century. During that period, the cultural exchange between Islam and Hindu made the change of the clothes of India reflected the mixing of Islamic and Hindu elements. The colonization of India by Great Britain that was the turning point for diverse kinds of tailored garment in the costume history of India inasmuch as western elements were introduced. The western style tailored method and design changed the appearance of Indian pants into slimmer style. The style spread and influenced on the design of indian clothes greatly; hence, western style shirts and coats were accepted in India.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.52-68
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to be inquired inner contemplation of the tattoo expressed in the modern costumes. For this study, related documentaries and pictures or photos were analyzed in terms of the theretical background for the history of tattoo, the relation between tattoo and the modern western costumes. The primary source of pictures or photos are Vogue, Collections, Collezioni, Harper\`s Bazaar, Modain, Model et Mode etc. The human\`s needs of body decoration had constantly pursued on the body and costumes from the first until lately. Especially in the recents, as the tattoo is implicated a dynamic and charming method of all kinds of body decoration, it\`s used a motive of modern western costumes. The original tattoo means a picture, word etc. that was put permanently onto their skin using a needle and coloring matter. But, these days tattoo is an expression of street style for something new in the subculture. The results were as a follows : The inner meaning of tattoo represented in the modern costumes was classified into two categories. First, the tattooing was a very important factor to complete fashion design through the history of modern costumes, and also the elaborate tattoo of the body was displayed unrestricted formativeness as the skinhead\`s tattoo, raceless\`s ambiguity of street style and artistic decoration, because that can be faded easily. Second, Tattoo Look was expressed as tattoo prints of the see-through, elastic textiles in the modern costumes. That is, the tattoo enhanced the effect of dramatic atmosphere other formative arts as well as the modern costumes by Tattoo Look. Similarity, Tattoo Look could be interpreted as the change of the aesthetic consciousness by the influence of the subculture. Accordingly, in the end of a this century, many experimental designers had applied tattoo to modern costumes. So this study will stand as an important clue to foresee the future costume\`s style and change.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.15-27
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• 1999

Matting made of wools has a history which gose back even before B.C.7000, the time which is believed to be the starting point of the fabrication, production and usage of wools by the nomads in the Western and Central Asia who had made the living by breeding sheeps. The purpose of this thesis is to investigate the function of wool matting in Asia. The research period limited to 9C A.D. When classified by the method of production of wool matting, the pile method and felt method have been widely used by the nomads in Western Asia and the cattle breeding nomads in Central Asia consecutively. From ancient times, wool matting has been considered to be one of the necessities by the nomads for living in the wilderness, and even at present, continued to be used by the people both for the purpose of everyday use and decoration. Other than fore-mentioned purposes, wool matting have function that is expressed the incantation, authorization and hierarchy, emotion and desire, and cultural exchange between nations. In addition, wool matting had also been used as a mark to show ownership and for military purposes. Even a simple wool matting had a different symbolism and function by different region and people throughout Asia. However, by finding and studying further abut what wool matting had symbolized and how it had been used, the tradition and history of wool matting could continue to attract the interests which will make the tradition to continue. And also, in order for the tradition to continue, the utmost efforts to innovate and produce better quality and design wool matting to fulfil the needs of modern times are truly required.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.151-164
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• 2004

This Studies on 20th century fashion was carried out according to the classification of the times as made up Belle Epoque, New Look, Big Look, and Body-Consciousness. Aside from research in literatures, research into 20th fashion also include the analysis of photo had been taken from various collection. The enlargement beauty of costume had been place under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness. the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To conclude, this study finds there are between the aesthetic characteristic differences in the aesthetic consciousness of the costumes in history and the present-day fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the present-day was found to have the following characteristic ; (1) History-oriented tradition (2) Metaphorica autonomous (3) Freedom of breaking with restriction (4) Dismantling the irregularity (5) Hedonistic play instinct (6) Psychological compensation (7) Sexual sensuality (8) Ideal of the times (9) Aesthetic ornament (10) Feeling of satisfaction through self-enlargement. From list above. metaphorical sensuality, aesthetic ornament and the feeling of satisfaction driven by Self-Enlargement are the same characteristics found in the aesthetics consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costume In history in that they are the aesthetic consciousness above time and space. It is metaphorical sensuality which transform woman's body in to distorted images as influenced by both capitalism and materialism in the last 20 years. These are represented by the sadomasochistic and fetish images as the woman's metaphorical voluminous enlargement is apparently becoming more positive, radical and obscene especially in terms of expression.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.54-66
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• 2016

This paper examines the transition of the Hungarian men's costume. Transition of the Hungarian men's costume can be divided into pre-eighteenth century, eighteenth century, and since the nineteenth century. Hungarian costume was derived from the Magyar who settled in Hungary in the ninth century. Hungry had begun to accept Western culture in the tenth century, so when the prototype of Hungarian costume was completed, it consisted of Dolman, Mente, pants, and boots combining traditional Magyar style with Western European style. In particular, Dolman shows the uniqueness of the Hungarian men's costume; it has a high, stand-up collar in the back center, closes on the left, has a right front plate with a diagonal cut at the waist, and a wide front closure. In the eighteenth century, Hungarian men's costumes played an important role in displaying national pride while living under the oppression of the Habsburg Empire. In particular, Dolman was worn as a uniform at the battle of independence (1703~1710). This dress of male courtiers became the distinctive style of the eighteenth century and then became the basic style of men's costumes. Since the nineteenth century, Hungarian men's costumes have acted as an means to promote the national consciousness of Hungary through the Citizen Revolution (1848), the War of Independence (1849), and the formation of the Dual Empire (1867). Looking at evolution of the Hungarian men's dress style, it reveals that resistance and struggles against other nations, a history of aggression, and living under oppressed are factors that impact on important clothing transitions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.104-115
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• 2008

Party is an important communication method in the 21st century and this tendency is not exceptional in Korea. With this noteworthy phenomenon, this study summarized the concept and history of party first, and then analysed "belief - attitude - behavioral intention" model based on the one-dimensional attitude theory. The variables included in this research were western culture familiarity as belief factor, three variables evaluating the party culture(i.e., non-popularity of party, marketability of party, sociability of party) as attitude factor, and dress code receptiveness as behavioral intention factor. The samples of this study were 498 women in twenties and thirties from metropolitan areas in South Korea. SPSS 12.0 and AMOS 4.0 packages were used for statistical analysis. The results of this research are as follows: First, western culture familiarity had a significant effect on attitude toward party culture. Specifically, western culture familiarity negatively influenced the non-popularity dimension of party and positively influenced the marketability and sociability dimension of party. Second, attitude toward party culture significantly influenced the dress code receptiveness. Consecutively, all of three dimensions about attitude toward party culture positively influenced the dress code receptiveness. Managerial implications were provided.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 1981

The object of this study lies in reviewing of the western costume history in the light of the negative regulations concerning costumes and adornments. Readings related with the subject lead to the following findings; 1. the principal purpose of the sumptuary laws has relationship with the social stratification of the feudalism and the frequency of their occurrence is related with the formation of feudal system, its decline, the appearance of imperial regimes and the start of civil revolutions. 2. Sumptuary regulations spread westward with the flow of civilization, eg., in the sequence of Italy, swiss, France, Britain and new world. 3. Sumptuary laws are also found in abundance in the english colonies of America, and their object seems to be rather of the moral concern than class distinction of economical restriction.4. The reviewed sumptuary regulations are concerned with : A. Material gold or silver clothes, silks, ermine, marten or miniver furs, velvets, laces and embroies. B. Colors-Purple, scarlet and red. Other colors do not show consistent pattern of color-status symbol; C. Form-Length and width of headdresses, shoes, collars, trains or hoops. E. numbers of dresses allowed to be worn.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.81-96
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• 2014

The meanings of colors vary with time and space. For the most important events in a person's life, such as wedding or funeral, people use color to symbolize their identities or roles. Traditionally, the colors of dress had indicated the wearer's age, class, or marital status in Korea. However, Korea's exposure to western cultures has affected in many dimensions of its modern history. Especially, influenced by social change, the traditional dress has undergone many modifications in forms, silhouettes, materials, and color. However, women's mourning dress has been maintained as a long lasting tradition and the use of white in mourning dress has been regarded as a norm until recently, while men have worn a regular black suit with a black tie. But, the shift from white to black in mourning dress has been observed in recent mourning practices. To examine this change of color in Korean traditional mourning dress, a historical approach utilizing multiple resources, such as interview, observations of events, documents, and archival records was applied.