• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.64-64
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• 2003

In these days western costume became everyday clothing in most of countries and is expected to be remained in that way. Therefore, it is needed to analyze how the past western costume has expressed human body stereoscopically up to the present time in order to predict future style of costume and develope various costume designs. Additionally, the pattern making and needlework techniques that were achieved through investigating history of costume in aspect of Clothing Construction, will provide significant information and inspiration to not only amateur designers but also costume researchers.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2002.10a
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• pp.36-37
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• 2002

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.67-75
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• 2003

In fashion history, the color "green" has been used from ancient to modern times constantly. Especially nowadays, the worth of green in fashion is becoming bigger than ever before to express the longing for pure nature. The purpose of this study is to define green's imageries in western costume history. For the basic about green, first of all, this study researched green of origin, effect and costumes in western history, then classified green's imageries. Green's imageries expressed in western costumes can be divided mainly into a 'nature imagery' and a 'religious divinity imagery'. Nature imagery was extended again into 'youth, devil, citizen and ecology image'. Youth image came from the luxurious feature of nature and it was extended again into 'innocent love, virgin and immaturity'. Religious divinity imagery has been represented in the ancient Egypt, Islam and Christian religion. In those cultures, green was considered as a sacred color of Osiris, Mahomet and Holy spirit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.149-166
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• 1990

Korean clothes is traditional folk costume native to Korea, Which is in Korea clothes. The past Korean costume was developed in the native costume, together influenced by chinese costume. But in the late Yi dynasty the contact with western countries brought about a turning point in Korean costume history, with rapid growth of economy since Korean war in the 1950's, the magnification of industrial structure, the development of productive technique, transformation of consumption pattern and the development of communication have been increased concerns for the western costume. In 1953 the introduction of nylon which was imported from Japanese brought about a fuming point in clothing habits. In 1967 the development of the fiber industry got a firm stand in ready-made clothes. Consequently our traditional Korean clothes was regarded as nonfunctional, nonproductive and it was pushed out of daily life little by little and it was deprived of the function of ordinary costume by the influence of western costume. But in these days the Korean clothes appears as the desire of pursuing traditional style in addition to mordern style of Korean clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.501-517
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• 2011

This study investigates the concept of the body in Korean traditional costume by comparing the traditional costumes of the west and those of Korea while focusing on the relationship between the body and dress. In order to make a comparison of the traditional perspectives on the body in western and Korean costumes, this study examines the literature of history, art, medicine, philosophy as well as dress from the mid-fourteenth century to the nineteenth century pertaining to the west and those of the Joseon Dynasty Korea. Western dress assumes apparent formal structures and pursues overall harmony via the completeness of its entities, while traditional Korean dress subordinates the parts to the whole, emphasizing the organic total. Whereas the proportion of bodily structure is stressed in western traditional costume, in Korean costume the body is perceived as a whole. By revealing the body through the three dimensionalities of dress, the focus on the erogenous body parts is shifting in conventional western dress according to changes in aesthetic consciousness, which reflects the western ideas of objectiveness and self-centeredness. In traditional Korean dress, in the space between the body and dress, the emphasis is on planarization of the dress, which assumes the oriental relationship-centeredness concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is contemplating and substantiating Korean Empire's court costume through relics and photos. Additionally, the meaning of the pattern of Mugunghwa as the national symbol in the court costume is considered. The results of this study are following. First, a phased introduction of western-style court costume was executed through Ulmi Reformation in 1895 and Court Costume Rule in 1900. U1mi Reformation was characterized by transitional reformation because newly introduced system and traditional costume consolidated in costume. Under Court Costume Rule, however, by accepting western-style on contemporary costume, modernized style was settled in every respect of form and matter. The court costume comprised bicorn, coat, vest, pantaloon, sword, sword belt, white collar and white gloves at audience with the Emperor. Second, by examination of the relics of Chigimgwan and Juimgwan, it was confirmed that the court costume was manufactured in foreign countries such as France and Russia on the basis of order. It was also identified by pictures that court costume was worn by diplomats dispatched. Third, the pattern of Mugunghwa in court costume was featured by embroidery of 6 petal pattern. And the pattern of Mugunghwa, as national symbol, has important meaning in view of history and national affection, while Japanese and European adopted the crest of the royal household. In summary, Korean Empire proclaimed modernized court costume institution to handle international relationship driven by West. It was uneasy reformation in adopting western court costume imported from overseas because its textile and style were completely different from traditional costume. However, the willingness of Korean Empire should be reevaluated in the history of Korean costume, in that Korean Empire established court costume proclaimed its sovereignty domestically and overseas, and that the pattern chosen as national symbol was that of Mugunghwa which is current national flower.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.8
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• pp.15-27
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• 1984

A costume study is a part of the cultural history and also has the greatest relation to life's senses as a concrete culture. Korean costume that consists a double structure with Chinese one through Chosun Dynasty five hundred years, has recently changed up to the Western Form. In this respect Korean Costume has a important meaning in relation to Western costume. Traditional costume, generally speaking, has tendency to keep up by the common people than the higher classes. Then there were four classes. They are aristocratic classes common people, those who are engaged in the form, industry, trade and low classes. Merchant of them partially took charge of the cultural exchange about contacting with tradition and new one. Because it's easy to flow in one's character the new civilization. So there is an important significance to research of the merchant's costume in Gae Hwa Gi changing age of civilization in politics, economic, and social system. The records appeared about the merchant's costume in the age of civilization through literature study and natural photo at that time.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.1-17
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• 1997

This study was conducted to obtain basic materials to improve the teaching method of Home Economics by theoretically looking into the supplementary teaching materials or implements usable in teaching Costume History area. And based on these data, the types and the applications of the supplementary teaching materials or implements highschool owned were examined. The subjects of this study were 111 Home Economics and Housework curriculum highschool teachers who give a lecture in the country by using self-administered questionnaires. SAS program was used to calculate frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, and $\chi$(sup)2-test analysis. The results of the study were as follows； 1. Most of the highschool teachers used the school expenses for experiments in preparing the supplementary teaching materials or implements. 2. Of the supplementary teaching materials and implements concerning Costume History, visual implements such as slides and pictures were the mostly owned. CD and audio implements as cassette-tapes were not used. 3. Most of the teachers recognized the importance of the audio-visual teaching materials and implements concerning Costume History. 4. Among the audio-visual materials and implements concerning Costume History by which can be made by school teachers of Home Economics and Housework curriculum, the mostly used one was ‘cutting pictorials from magazines and newspapers’, and the next were ‘orbital materials’, and ‘copy the pictorials’, and the least was ‘recording from the radio’. 5. Most of the annual expenses assigned to the department of Home Economics was used in cooking practice, and the least of the expenses was assigned in buying audio-visual teaching materials and implements. 6. Time assigned to the area of Home Economics was for the most part one or two hours per week, and among this, time assigned to the history of western costume and the history ok korean costume was for the most part five to eight hours. 7. The areas that the highschool teachers felt difficulties mostly during clothing and textiles curriculum were ‘textiles’and the next were ‘knitting’, ‘western costume history’, and ‘korean clothing construction’. 8. The difficulties the highschool teachers faced while teaching Costume History were mostly that ‘the pictorials in the text is not fully explainable’, the next were ‘most of the supplementary teaching materials or implements are not owned’, ‘have to explain very much in a short time’, and ‘the lectural explanation is insufficient’. 9. The solution for the difficulties that the highschool teachers faced while teaching Costume History was mostly ‘the information, on which audio-visual materials and implements are distributed in the market, should be easy to obtain’, the next opinions were ‘the school should provide enough experiment and practice expenses to buy audio-visual materials and implements’, and ‘education facilities of the Home Economics Department should be the main aspects in improving the teaching methods and should give special lectures about it’.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-27
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• 1994

This result of the study on the costume of Osman Turkey are as following. 1. Empire of Osman Turkey(129∼1922) exerted an almost limites impact and influence on Europe and Asia during their regime 600 years. The distant ancestors of the Osman Turks were nomadic peoples, who wandered I tribal groups through the Central Asia. Therefore their costumes were based on nomadic culture. They had trade with West and East were influenced by Hellenism and Byzantium and grew, to a strong Islamic political power polygamy with which influence their clothing along with other culture. 2. Topkapi Saray was one of he principal residences of the Osman sultans and his court. Late 17 century, Topkapi Saray found many of kaftans of Osman Turks Empires of 14∼17 centuries. Otherwise we studied by the minatures of 16∼17 centuries, Since the Topkapi Saray became a museum in 1924, a program of careful restoration has made it possible to some pars of it to the public, after centuries neglection. 3. Osman Turkey Empire had important role in between West and East(silk-road). Economic, commercial, social and political factor of Turkey led to a development in the art of weaving (kema, kadife, catman, seraser, zerbeft, hatayi, kntnu, atlas)parallel to the rise and development of the Osman Turkey Empire itself, one which raised the art to a level attained nowwhere else in the world. Fabrics woven from gold and silver thread occupied a very important place in the court life of the time. This was due as much to their symbolic as to their material value, reflecting as they did the power, glory and magnificence of the Empire. 4. In order to study Eastern or Western history of costume one must study Turkey history of costume in advance. Also there is a great need of comparison to study of western, central and north eastern area history of costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.110-124
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• 2015

This study examined a phenomenon of exaggerated hairstyle in the history of Western custom through publications related with Western costume and research papers. By adopting the criteria of Delong, M. R. to analyze visual forms shown by interaction between human body and costume worn over the body, it analyzed the formative characteristics by the interaction between hairstyle and costume. In addition, it inferred the aesthetic characteristics through content analysis of examined phenomenon focusing on socio-cultural background and costume socio-psychological precedent studies. Formative characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle applied by analysis criteria of Delong, M. R. were in pursuit of the emphasis style. This was clearly and intensively recognized by forming spaces for mostly closure style, part style, three dimensional style, determinate style, and space separation style. Regarding the interaction between hair and ornamentations, 'precedence of ornamentation' was pursued as ornamentations were recognized earlier than the hair itself. It means associative meanings of the surface effect were accompanied by emotions of 'intensiveness' and the pursuit of the attractive style. As for the interaction between hairstyle and costume, there were many cases of pursuing 'continuity' mutually and visually by connecting the hairstyle and the costume. Aesthetic characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle were inferred as 1) the expression of the sprite of the age(i.e. art, culture, politics, society, ideology, religion), 2) symbols of wealth, class, authority, and excellence, 3) pursuit of addicted desire to ornament, and 4) harmony through continuity with costume. This study verified that hairstyle was connected as a part of costume, or formed as a way to express deeper human psychology beyond just a part of a costume. It was also confirmed that hairstyle was an expressive method to express the spirit of the age, such as art, culture, society, religion, ideology.