• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.193-210
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• 2024

The portrait featuring Jo Ban(1341-1401), a scholar-official from the late Goryeo and early Joseon period, and his wife is the oldest surviving couple portrait in Korea. It is of great value in uncovering the clothing culture of the period given the limited number of historical artifacts and records. This study examines the historical clothing and textile patterns of Jo Ban's wife and reproduces them using 3D fashion design software program CLO. She wears jokduri, chima, and baeja over layers of jeogori, a mixture of traditional Korean and Chinese styles. Her clothing illustrates eight patterns-one flower, five geometric, and two cloud. Records and relics of similar periods show that flower and geometric patterns in her clothing follow the prevailing styles of Goryeo, while the cloud patterns are representative of early Joseon. These details are used to reproduce six different styles of Jo Ban's wife with CLO tools. Various visualizations of textile patterns are applied to materials, generating a more realistic look than her existing 3D character created with the portrait. Results of this study are expected to help promote the use of Goryeo clothing and patterns in numerous designs and enhance intuitive understanding of Goryeo clothing based on 3D visualization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.76-87
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• 2007

Since the emergence of postmodernism, as interest in human has increased, human face image is being highlighted as one of the themes that are addressed the most. Making the images of faces and individuals shown in costumes the subject matter, this thesis examines the internal values immanent in the images in more depth and understands them based on the Panofsky's iconological interpretation scheme. This study aims to identify designer's purposes and even their unconscious intention through iconological interpretation of faces shown in the fashion and images shown in human image, and further to present basic materials in the fashion design. This research used literature reviews and case studies, and used Panofsky's iconological interpretation theory as the scheme in order to interpret the symbolic significance implied in the images. The images of faces and individuals shown in costumes were classified into six types through historical reviews, and based on the types the images of faces and individuals shown in the fashion since the 20th century were examined. The iconological analysis of the images of faces and individuals shown in costumes based on the classification of types according to historical reviews showed parodies, cultural identity, commercial use, eroticism, respect for heros and its fiction. This study has found that all such things finally return to humanism that humans should be valued and loved the most.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.11-24
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• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2039-2050
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• 2010

This study examines Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in her portraits according to symbolic meanings and analyzes the expressive effects of Queen Marie Antoinette's costumes in the movies. The symbolic meanings through the costumes of Marie Antoinette expressed in the portraits shows the strong historical power of France in Europe along with the majestic appearance of the queen. A new perception of Marie Antoinette's taste can be found as she wore simple robe $\`{a}$ la l$\'{e}$vite in addition to extravagant costumes that demonstrated convention and position. The benevolent, extravagant, and splendid side of Marie Antoinette in history was emphasized; however, it also emphasized that she was a fashion leader with adventurous thinking and a liberal mind who accepted new things that transcend the era through this costume. The results of studying the expressive effects of Marie Antoinette's costumes as presented in the movies through the formative analysis of DeLong are as follows. The costumes expressed like this were observed through definer and the priority of observation, and it could be classified and analyzed in 4 expressive effects of excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy; in addition, it induced the visual maximization according to the flow of the movie. After the study analyzed movies about the queen through four expressive effects, the costumes were shown as excitement, calmness, strength, and delicacy according to the flow of play.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.191-213
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• 2023

Romans in the fifth and sixth centuries BC referred to the people who brought silk from the Far East via the pre-Han (漢) silk road as "Seres". The Seres' colorful silk was characterized by intricate patterns and high yarn density, markedly different than thin "China silk". This study examined geographic and genealogic records and linguistic evidence and found support for the syllogistic conclusion that the "Seres" were the early Silla people. The Seres' territory in the seventh century BC was much larger than that of the Qin (秦) or Zhou (周), extending from Xinjiang to Balhae. According to literature records, Dong-Yi (東夷) invented Geum (錦) silk in the 11th century BC around Balhae, where silkworm trees were abundant. In the Han dynasty, even thin silk was rare and expensive, but in Gojoseon (古朝鮮), Geum silk was common and less valuable than beads. The Silla delivered surplus Geum silk, fur, and high-quality iron to the West. Linguistic evidence includes historical names for Silla: "Sira," "Saro," and "Sere," as well as records naming King Ruri of Silla "Seri-Ji"; and the replacement of the word "Seres" by the word "Silk" from the Goguryeo word for "yarn winder": "sil-kkury".

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.3
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• pp.459-474
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• 2023

Contemporary fashion criticism tends to rely solely on the established art criticism process without consideration of the distinctive characteristics of fashion. Thus, this study aims to reveal the unique roles and characteristics of fashion criticism by recognizing it as an independent field in contemporary art with its own social significance. This study will first apply traditional art criticism models to analyze and explore contemporary fashion criticism's empirical content before uncovering the uniqueness of contemporary fashion criticism by content analysis. Contemporary fashion criticism discusses not just physical objects but various topics and ideas, as well. Accordingly, the existing criticism model was modified in this study to fit contemporary fashion criticism and organized into five stages: description of historical fashion, form description, external evaluation, interpretation, and internal evaluation. Commerciality, the human body, coordination, the critic's individuality, trends, and fashion-related persons were identified as key factors of contemporary fashion criticism's uniqueness. In conclusion, rather than build a single contemporary fashion model, this study found it more effective to create individual fashion criticism models suitable for detailed fields, as these enable the discussion of multifaceted topics in the fashion field. This study is expected to serve a meaningful guide for the fashion discourses.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.53-82
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• 2022

The Hebrew word for silk, meshi, is mentioned in the Bible only once and there is a possibility that the item to which it referred was made of local wild silk. Although Jewish historical sources from the Roman and Byzantine periods mention silk many times, only a few silk textiles have been discovered at a sited dated to the Byzantine period (4^th-7^th centuries CE). The word "silk" occurs in the New Testament, although only once. A turning point in the history of the Negev (Southern Israel) occurred around 400 CE when it underwent a period of prosperity related to the advent of Christianity and pilgrimage, which enabled the purchase of imported silk textiles. The Early Islamic period (7-8th centuries CE) yielded four (out of 310) silk textiles from Nahal 'Omer on the Spice Routes joining Petra, in the Edom Mountains of modern Jordan, and the mercantile outlets on the Mediterranean Sea, notably Gaza and El Arish. The most important silk textile assemblage in the Southern Levant was found near Jericho at Qarantal Cave 38 and dates to the medieval period (9th-13th centuries CE). Linen textiles decorated with silk tapestry originating in Egypt date back to the 10-11th centuries CE. Mulham textiles - silk warp with hidden cotton wefts - were discovered in the medieval fortress on Jazirat Fara'un (Coral Island) in the Red Sea, 14 kilometers south of Elat and today located in Egypt. Mulham is mentioned in literary sources of the ninth century in Iraq and Iran, whence it spread through the Islamic world. The article will present aspects of the origin, transmission, and exchange of these textiles.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.329-334
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• 2014

A scientific analysis of ancient textiles provides significant data to understand weaving techniques and culture of textiles in each region and charateristics of materials used at that time. In addition, species identification of waterlogged wooden objects is a scientific analysis method that allow us to verify information of relation of foreign species trade and exchange, of preferable species through kinds of wooden products, and of forest environment as well as method setting of conservation. As a result of a species analysis about historical textiles and a wooden comb in a bronze bowl that were excavated from Hapgang-ri, Dong-Myun, Yungi-gun, Chungcheongnam-do, Textile1 and Textile3 are identified as Urticacese Boehmeri nivea ; ramie, Textie2 is identified as Malvaceae Gossypium herbaceum, and a wooden comb is identified as Betulaceae Betula spp. It is expected that this result will help to make further comparative studies, identifying species of textiles and trees of ancient times.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.70-78
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• 2017

To predict and foster professional research issues for the present and future, it is important to understand the stream of research trends. This study is to provide information of research trend through analysis of quantitative variables in 1,374 articles from the first issue to the present(2015) of the Fashion and Textiles Research Journal. As a result, in the former periods, articles in the field of textile science & technology and fashion design & historical concerns, and articles that used experiments and others as a research method were dominant; in the latter periods, articles in the field of fashion marketing & merchandising and apparel production & technology, and articles that used survey as a research method were dominant. According to each detailed research field and method, there were significant differences in the number of pages, authors and references of articles. In addition, it was found that the number of pages and the number of references increased sharply in the latter period, indicating that the contents of the papers were more detailed and faithful to references of other studies. Through the analysis of this study, it was found that Fashion and Textiles Research Journal published a variety of articles in the academic fields. The research information analyzed in this study will contribute to the future design for the research as well as the academic societies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.341-351
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• 2017

This study evaluates a cleaning method to maintain and minimize the change of blood soil for the selective removal of stains from textiles with historical significance and special meaning. Cotton and silk fabrics were soiled with blood, aged artificially and then washed by wet cleaning or dry cleaning (water, nonionic surfactant; Triton, natural surfactant; saponin, organic solvent; n-Decane). The washed fabrics were stored at room temperature for four years. The change of the blood soil was evaluated by SEM, weight, thickness, and color differences. Subsequently, the shape and the amount of blood adsorption on the fabric varied depending on fiber type and fabric structure characteristics; in addition, long term storage affected changes to blood soil. It was difficult to remove artificially aged blood soil from fabrics by wet or dry cleaning. However, the changes of the blood soil by these cleanings can be explained by the changes on SEM, weight, thickness and fabric color. The changes (especially color) showed over time. Wet cleaning showed that the changes of those factors were slightly lower than those by dry cleaning.