• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.360-378
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• 2018

Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1014-1024
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• 2009

The cultural content industry can be stimulated by the production of content based on Korean traditional culture such as Korean court culture. At present, the use of royal costumes of various Korean dynasties for content creation is rare. Less than ten government-supported projects managed by the Korea Culture & Content Agency (KOCCA) are related with Korean royal costumes. Only a handful of tourism-related cultural products (e.g., souvenirs and theme parks) are related to this subject. Fortunately, there are many events that demonstrate traditional court ceremonies; however, there is a need for more investment in academic research to ensure accurate reproduction. There are a number of issue in utilizing traditional royal costumes to produce cultural content that include: a lack of understanding the importance of Korean royal costumes, discrepancies of the content produced based on the historical context, a lack of public knowledge or support, and the lack of the historical accuracy of reproduced content. In order to benefit the most from royal costumes, this article suggests recreating the costumes as a source for further content creation, the development of a database to store information by design features and itemized topics, along with the active support of the government.

• 복식
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• 제61권9호
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• pp.60-73
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• 2011

The movie costumes, artistic and figurative, serve to maximize the dramatic conveying effect of the movie's theme, actor's character, and the image of a dramatic situation expressed through clothing. It is considered that research would be meaningful if it studied on how the movie costumes are implied with symbols in order to present a dramatic image depending on the situation. Therefore this research compared, analyzed, and interpreted the historical plays produced on historical backgrounds, "The Sword With No Name" and 'Elizabeth - Golden Age'. In other words, five dramatic situations were extracted in order to compare and analyze the costumes of Empress Myeongseong to the costumes of Queen Elizabeth. The costumes presented according to the storyline and the personalities of the two characters with these five as the basis are compared and analyzed, and the implied symbolic meaning could be interpreted and analogized based on the results. Therefore it is suggested that symbolic meaning, along with the expression of the dramatic atmosphere, needs to be implied in the design of the movie costumes.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.155-171
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• 2007

Exaggerated expressions of contemporary fashion have exceeded historical precedents in volume. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetic characteristics of expanded form In contemporary fashion. To take dresses beyond their flat shapes into three-dimensional forms, it was investigated into volume of dresses by using the void and the mass. The void Is rarefied space and the mass is densified space. The void of dresses could be constructed from the boning such as panier and stiff textiles as organza lining. The mass could be constructed from padding. Fold, pleats, twist, and the layering of fabrics show features of both the void and the mass. Contemporary fashion designers relied on the void rather that the mass to make the enormous volume because of the weight of the mass. X-silhouette and the expansion of skirt and sleeve were dominant as the result of accentuating the body with a waistline. However, many of expanded dresses were so voluminous that they obscured the body's outlines. Some forms were strange and shocking. Many designers explored the void and there were a multitude of methods to construct the void: compartments of air, architectural techniques, technical textiles, fold such at origami. The aesthetic consciousness of expanded dresses could be classified into 7 categories, the giant, the dynamic, the deconstructive, the historical, the comedic, the rhythmical, and the technical character.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2005

Jazz derived from the blacks' work songs and made the frame of Jazz reaching blues and finally arrived at the recent time propagating itself as not only the blacks' music but all human being's music. This study has a purpose to suggest the Jazz image to the fashion design by examining the historical trace of Jazz which is one of popular music received by hearing sense. As for the result of the Jazz's effects by age, rhythmical beauty stressing dresses were in fashion by dance enjoying women in 1920's and dresses giving a mature atmosphere set the fashion in 1930's. in the beginning of 1990's, newly emerging Jazz was reflected to the popular culture along with the historical mode's fashion in the general society. The design's decided with two themes of Jazz Classic and Neo Fusion to modernly and naturally express the pursuit of strong color contrast which associated fast rhythm and lax image such as the counter melody of smooth Jazz. In that result, Jazz image with auditory feelings could suggest the various design motive and new idea to fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권5호
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• pp.950-968
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• 2020

This study derives the modern characteristics of the paisley ornament through an analysis of the paisley ornament shown in fashion since the 2010s based on a theoretical review of the paisley ornament used in Kashmir India shawls for artistic inspiration in the fashion-textile field. It classified the paisley ornament in fashion since the 2010s into types of 'basic structure of body and coif', 'abnormal paisley ornament shapes', 'complex structure of paisley ornament', 'complex structure with other motif', 'a pair of symmetrical reflection motif', 'regular of repetitive arrangement', 'complex arrangement of irregularity and regularity' and 'free arrangement of irregularity'. A comparative analysis with the historical paisley ornament shows that paisley ornaments have contemporary characteristics like 'Bisector structure of centerline in criterion of the body', 'Composite structure of extended 1-repeat', and 'Free structure of engineered placement'. A modern design was inspired by the historical art forms; however, it was used in free utilization of motifs and patterns in terms of size, direction, proportion and space. These were the expression of a design identity that originated from the aesthetic ability and career of a designer as well as the technology of computer programs for the improvements in time and cost efficiency.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.68-84
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.463-474
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.