Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Contemporary Characteristics of Fashion-textile Design Applying Paisley Ornament

페이즐리 오너먼트를 활용한 패션텍스타일 디자인의 현대적 특징 연구

  • 정하정 (국민대학교 의상디자인학과) ;
  • 박주희 (국민대학교 의상디자인학과)
  • Received : 2020.07.10
  • Accepted : 2020.08.19
  • Published : 2020.10.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study derives the modern characteristics of the paisley ornament through an analysis of the paisley ornament shown in fashion since the 2010s based on a theoretical review of the paisley ornament used in Kashmir India shawls for artistic inspiration in the fashion-textile field. It classified the paisley ornament in fashion since the 2010s into types of 'basic structure of body and coif', 'abnormal paisley ornament shapes', 'complex structure of paisley ornament', 'complex structure with other motif', 'a pair of symmetrical reflection motif', 'regular of repetitive arrangement', 'complex arrangement of irregularity and regularity' and 'free arrangement of irregularity'. A comparative analysis with the historical paisley ornament shows that paisley ornaments have contemporary characteristics like 'Bisector structure of centerline in criterion of the body', 'Composite structure of extended 1-repeat', and 'Free structure of engineered placement'. A modern design was inspired by the historical art forms; however, it was used in free utilization of motifs and patterns in terms of size, direction, proportion and space. These were the expression of a design identity that originated from the aesthetic ability and career of a designer as well as the technology of computer programs for the improvements in time and cost efficiency.

Keywords

References

  1. Abas, S. J., & Salman, A. S. (1995). Symmetries of Islamic geometrical patterns. Singapore, New Jersey and London: World Scientific.
  2. Ames, F. (1997). The Kashmir shawl and its Indo-French influence (3ed ed.). Woodbridge: Antique Collectors' Club.
  3. Ames, F. (2010). Woven masterpieces of Sikh heritage: The stylistic development on the Kashmir shawl under Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780-1839). Woodbridge: Antique Collectors' Club.
  4. Bloomer, K. (2000). The nature of ornament: Rhythm and metamorphosis in architecture. New York, NY: W. W. Norton.
  5. Crill, R. (Ed.). (2015). The fabric of India. London: Victoria & Albert Museum.
  6. Chung, H. J. (2019). Fashion-textile design applying the formative principle of paisley ornament (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Kookmin University, Seoul.
  7. Firstviewkorea. (2010). 2011 S/S Women RTW NewYork Anna Sui. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS021&City=CD004&Event=EV001&Designer=103&Cate=CC001
  8. Firstviewkorea. (2011). 2011 F/W Women RTW Milan Etro. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS022&City=CD002&Event=EV001&Designer=95&Cate=CC001
  9. Firstviewkorea. (2012a). 2013 S/S Women RTW Milan Etro. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS027&City=CD002&Event=EV001&Designer=95&Cate=CC001
  10. Firstviewkorea. (2012b). 2012 F/W Women RTW Milan Etro. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS024&City=CD002&Event=EV001&Designer=95&Cate=CC001
  11. Firstviewkorea. (2012c). 2012 F/W Women RTW Milan Etro. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS024&City=CD002&Event=EV001&Designer=95&Cate=CC001
  12. Firstviewkorea. (2014). 2014 F/W Women RTW NewYork Alexander Wang. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS030&City=CD004&Event=EV001&Designer=1749&Cate=CC001
  13. Firstviewkorea. (2015a). 2016 S/S Women RTW London Antonio Berardi. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS033&City=CD003&Event=EV001&Designer=2474&Cate=CC001
  14. Firstviewkorea. (2015b). 2016 S/S Women RTW Paris Manish Arora. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS033&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=1949&Cate=CC001
  15. Firstviewkorea. (2015c). 2016 S/S Women RTW Paris Manish Arora. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS033&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=1949&Cate=CC001
  16. Firstviewkorea. (2016a). 2017 S/S Women RTW Paris Moncler Gamme Rouge. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS035&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=2944&Cate=CC001
  17. Firstviewkorea. (2016b). 2017 S/S Women RTW Paris Acne Studios. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS035&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=2685&Cate=CC001
  18. Firstviewkorea. (2016c). 2017 S/S Women RTW Milan Etro. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS035&City=CD002&Event=EV001&Designer=95&Cate=CC001
  19. Firstviewkorea. (2016d). 2017 S/S Women RTW Milan Etro. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS035&City=CD002&Event=EV001&Designer=95&Cate=CC001
  20. Firstviewkorea. (2016e). 2016 F/W Women RTW London Holly Fulton. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS034&City=CD003&Event=EV001&Designer=2345&Cate=CC001
  21. Firstviewkorea. (2016f). 2016 F/W Women RTW London Paul Smith. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS034&City=CD003&Event=EV001&Designer=404&Cate=CC001
  22. Firstviewkorea. (2017a). 2017 F/W Women RTW Paris Manish Arora. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS036&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=1949
  23. Firstviewkorea. (2017b). 2018 S/S Women RTW NewYork Delpozo. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS037&City=CD004&Event=EV001&Designer=3423&Cate=CC001
  24. Firstviewkorea. (2018a). 2018 F/W Women RTW London JW Anderson. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS038&City=CD003&Event=EV001&Designer=2380&Cate=CC001
  25. Firstviewkorea. (2018b). 2018 F/W Women RTW Paris Chloe. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS038&City=CD001&Event=EV001&Designer=441&Cate=CC001
  26. Firstviewkorea. (2019a). 2019 F/W Women RTW Paris Altuzarra. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS040&City=CD007&Event=EV001&Designer=4358
  27. Firstviewkorea. (2019b). 2020 S/S Women RTW NewYork Anna Sui. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS041&City=CD004&Event=EV001&Designer=103&Cate=CC001
  28. Firstviewkorea. (2019c). 2020 S/S Women RTW Milan Atsushi Nakashima. Firstviewkorea. Retrieved from http://api.firstviewkorea.com/FVKWEBSVC/Pages/PhotoImageViewer.aspx?Season=SS041&City=CD002&Event=EV001&Designer=4132&Cate=CC001
  29. Geczy, A. (2013). Fashion and orientalism: Dress, textiles and culture from the 17th to the 21st century. London and New York: Bloomsbury.
  30. Gillow, J., & Barnard, N. (2014). Indian textiles. London: Thames & Hudson.
  31. Guy, J., & Britschgi, J. (2011). Wonder of the age: Master painters of India 1100-1900. New York, NY: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
  32. Han, H.-K. (2014). Study on the intangible cultural heritage utilization of crafts for culture contents industry. Culture Art Contents, (12.13). 263-285.
  33. Hann, M. (2012). Structure and form in design: Critical ideas for creative practice. London and New York: Berg.
  34. Jones, O., & Iain, Z. (2010). The grammar of ornament: A unique collection of over 2,350 classic patterns included (S. S. Kim, S. H. Kim, K. E. Lee, Y. J. Lee, & S. Y. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Da Vinci. (Original work published 2001)
  35. Kim, T.-j., & Ahn, S.-h. (1990). A critical study on the interpretation of architectural history(II)-Concentrating on A. Riegl's concepts of art history-. Theses Collection, 8, 261-272.
  36. Koch, E. (1982). The baluster column: A European motif in Mughal architecture and its meaning. Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Institutes, 45, 251-262. doi:10.2307/750984
  37. Park, C.-K. (2002). Alois Riegls "Kunstgeschichte als Stilgeschichte". The Journal of Aesthetics and Science of Art, 16, 67-79.
  38. Rawlings, L. B. (2016). Grunbaum and Shephard's classification of Escher-like patterns with applications to abstract algebra (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Columbia University, New York.
  39. Riegl, A. (2018). Stilfragen: Grundlegungen zu einer Geschichte der Ornamentik [Style issues: Basic principles for a history of ornamentation]. (Forgotten Books, Reprint). London: Forgotten Books. (Original work published 1893)
  40. Skelton, R. (1972). A decorative motif in Mughal art. In P. Pal (Ed.), Aspects of Indian art: Papers presented in a symposium at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, October, 1970 (pp. 147-152). Leiden: E. J. Brill.
  41. Udale, J. (2008). 텍스타일과 패션 [Textiles and fahion] (H. W. Seo, Trans.). Seoul: Design Researchn'Planing, Inc. (Original work published 2008)
  42. Washburn, D. K., & Crowe, D. W. (1988). Symmetries of culture: Theory and practice of plane pattern analysis. Seattle and London: University of Washington Press.
  43. Wilson, K. (2000). A history of textiles (M. S. Park & I. S. Cha, Trans.). Seoul: Yekyong. (Original work published 1979)
  44. Wong, W. (1994). 디자인과 형태론 [Principles of form and design] (G. R. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Kukje. (Original work published 1993)