• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.32-46
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• 2011

The study researched the characteristic of helmet and armor reflecting Joseon Dynasty by focusing on the helmet and armor appearing in dramas, the Tear of Dragon and King Sejong, whose common point is the historical background, the early Joseon Dynasty, among the historical dramas, which are manufactured on the basis of historical person or age. First, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama was reproduced on the basis of historical record depending on age. In the early Joseon Dynasty, helmet was classified into cheomju and wonju and armor was classified into chalgap, swaejagap, gyeongbeongap, dujeonggap and dudumigap. In drama, the Tear of Dragon and King Sejong, for helmet, cheomju and wonju were used and for armor, chalgap, dujeonggap and dudumigap, whose type and manufacture method were similar to that of historical record, were reproduced. Second, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama searched for function. In drama, the Tear of Dragon, rather than heavy iron, plastic and textile were used and the metal scale inside armor was removed. In drama, King Sejong, the weight of armor was decreased by removing the metal scale inside armor and easy wearing was secured by using velcro. Third, the helmet and armor appearing in historical drama expressed various dramatic interpretations. In drama, the Tear of Dragon, the same color as that of armor was adopted for helmet to provide stable and unified feeling. Visually splendid display was added to armor by matching powerful prime color and glossy metal. In drama, King Sejong, modem sense was added to helmet and armor by actively using pastel color reflecting modem fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to know how helmet and armor was reinterpreted in historical play by considering general concept and type of old helmet and armor from the aspect of costume history and comparing the helmet and armor types of TV historical plays, Yeongaesomun and Taewangsasingi, whose historical backgrounds were based on the age of Goguryeo. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun was reinterpreted as the one, which is close to historical investigation, by reappearing lamellar armor and jongjangpanju(helmet made of slim, long plate) shown in Goguryeo wall painting. The helmet and armor type shown in Taewangsasingi expresses fantastic helmet and armor by adding fantastic factor regardless of historical investigation. The study result reveals that there are several common characteristic factors between the helmet and armors of two historical plays. First, there was a classification in the display of character and story. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun classified color and detail design depending on lamellar armor or character. In Taewangsasingi, the helmet and armor was manufactured depending on character's nature and the chain armors, which are lighter than existing helmet and armors, were usual. Second, they escaped from the historical investigation about traditional helmet and armor. In Yeongaesomun, myeonggwangae(a type of armor), which might be popular, was not expressed and Taewangsasingi is free from an imperative idea of historical investigation by manufacturing helmet and armor referring to that of ancient Rome age. The modern sense was reflected to increase dramatic effect. The helmet and armor of Yeongaesomun provides modern feeling by using stainless steel material and modern color arrangement and that of Taewangsasingi is designed in modern, splendid way as it aimed at game development from the planning step.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.137-149
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• 1993

The concept of style including the external form and internal meaning provides a useful structure to clarify the historical phenomenon on dress. The purpose of this study was to explore surrealism related to the external form and internal meaning and the stylistic change of surrealism through 1930 and 1988 according the linked solution proposed by Brodsky. The results were as follows; 1. In terms of double roots including the external form and the internal meaning on the surrealism of dress, first, the external form was founded to be that each objects having symbolic meaning was dislocated from its original place to dress. Second, the aspects of internal meaning intended to represent not rational and external world but irrational as well as to reveal other nature of object or dress itself. 2. The change of surrealistic style on dress was characterised as "linked solution" change theory than cyclical change theory through the historical data from 1930 to 1988 of documentary sources.

• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• 2005.06a
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• pp.161-163
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.107-125
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• 2020

Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15^th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2000

The purpose of study is explaining the Historicism as a result of compromise, historical eclecticism, between historical things and current cultural background instead of regarding it as an imitation from the past. It means that external factors in history help internal esthetic value surface out as costume. Fashion s history is more than the classified thing according to the appearance with the changes of the times. Intrinsic cultural elements should be added in creating new fashion. One of the different features between Modernism and Post-modernism. When coming to the period of Post-modernism, it connected with the historical factors to make something new by fragmenting, magnifying, or minimizing them. This is calles 'Historicism'in the world of art. It revived the past, not the past itself, in new ways : quotation, reuse, metaphor, and mixture. To represent the image, parody, pastiche, or bricolage was usually used. In post-modernism fashion, parody is a technique for imitating the past or the preceding forms with artists'own critical points of view. This technique gives us shock or surprise by using satirical, ironical or paradoxical expressions. pastiche shares the same part with parody in imitating particular or unique style, and it can be renamed empty parody, because it doesn't have any hidden motivation or satirical impulse. bricolage is a mixture of quotations from other works. It contains fragments that deepen the image. Like the techniques uttered above, the revival of history through parody, pastiche or bricolage is historical eclecticism and it is included in Historicism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.407-419
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• 2017

Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.543-553
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• 2014

This study analyzes the visual image and the symbolic image of the 'New Woman' main female characters' costumes in three films: , , and , set in the Korean Empire Period and filmed in the last 10 years. The findings are as follows. First, on the visual image by formative characteristics, Gibson girl style was reflected in Western costume design. Korean costume design is based on a traditional style (or modified in some parts). Second, the three films have the same historical background on the visual image by the fidelity of historical research; however, the fidelity of historical research differs and varies with the personality of characters or situations in the films. Third, all three films share the symbolic image by characteristics of characters and 'New Woman' aspect with the same historical background and 'New Woman' female character in common; however, the personality and 'New Woman' aspect of the characters were somewhat different. There was also a distinct difference in the symbolic image of Western and Korean costumes. Western and Korean costumes signify externality versus internality and denial versus the affirmation of national identity in ; dailiness versus ceremonialness and dynamics versus statics in ; and independence versus conformity and variability versus continuity in .

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.300-313
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• 2005

Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.630-647
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• 2021

As generations Y and Z gain influence, luxury fashion brands are interacting with younger digital consumers through fashion film, seeking to offer them a differentiated brand experience. Using a literature review addressing characteristics of fashion films as a communication medium and luxury fashion brands' heritage in the digital era, this study examines how brands express their heritage through fashion film, categorizing those expressions in terms of implicit meaning. The case study analyzed films from Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior, and Burberry uploaded to YouTube between 2018 and 2020. First, to retain their status as luxury, brands emphasize historical legitimacy. Specifically, they highlight their iconic historical image, their succession of creative directors, valuable historic locations, and diversity of consumer's brand experiences. Second, by stressing craftsmanship, integrating contemporary art and local culture, and utilizing a museum aura, they use brand heritage to acquire luxury status. Third, they attempt to mythify the founders by creating the persona of the fashion designer and the artist. The results show that the heritage depicted in fashion films is a key way in which luxury fashion brands resolve the tension between accessibility and exclusivity that they encounter and to get consumers emotionally engaged with brands.