• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.26-41
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• 2005

In this study homosexuality as a discourse represented in contemporary fashion magazines is explored in context. The main concerns are the contemporary construction of homosexuality, fashion symbols to identify homosexuals, and relationships between homosexuality and heterosexual masculinity in fashion images today. After elaborating homosexuality conceptualized historically, an analytical framework from Foucault's discursive approach was made up to interpret the fashion spreads since 2000. As a result, as it is assumed that the concept of homosexuality is constructed by historical specificity, homosexual fashion styles are dynamic. So, it should be recognized that they are formed by power relationships with heterosexuality, and other social factors such as class, race, age, and consumer culture and market trends. On the basis of photographic themes and fashion looks homosexual images are classified into 3 kinds of versions, the effeminate trend setter, the masculine athlete or biker, and the neo camp. However, most of contemporary homosexual photographs are not also so conspicuously different from heterosexual ones. Therefore, in the contemporary structure at least from fashion images, homosexuals can be recognized equally with heterosexual people only except for sexual preference. Thus, homosexual fashion also shares a lot of fashionable products with heterosexual one, with often homosexuals' role as trend -setter.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.99-112
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• 2008

The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.391-405
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• 2005

This study puts emphasis on showing the change of Stripe Pattern, which has been popular for a long period of time in many societies, with change in time, assessing its value as an art. During medieval period, Strife Pattern had a strong negative meaning as a sign of disgrace or inferiority, or had been used as discrimination against a mental or a sinner, who had been rejected or banished from the society. Through French Revolution, Stripe Pattern has become a symbol of liberty and equality, furthermore, the notion of society as well as countries. This event had positively affected on reevaluating its image, from inferior, negative to significant, artistic. Eventually the variety of aesthetic values of Stripe Pattern led its way to the variation of its functional value expanding its use other than fashion industry. It is anticipated that our fashion industry will flourish in creating new, creative design by understanding design and appreciating their aesthetic values with their applications to human sensibility.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.203-213
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• 2007

This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Christian Lacroix's haute couture works. The materials for the study are the precedent studies, the related literature, and the photographs of the works and the interview articles in fashion journal at home and abroad. The result of this study were finds three esthetic characteristics in his works and fashion philosophy; historic, ethnic, and hybrid sense. First, the historic sense, Christian Lacroix's biggest characteristic, is influenced by his major studies, but is not a revival from the past itself but a new characteristic based on borrowing and reinterpreting the images created by introducing and compromising the historic elements. Second, the ethnic sense is influenced by the growing background in his childhood and can be characterized as compromise among the multi-national design features. It is certified by the contrasting images, styles, expressions, materials, ornament elements, and so forth with the worldwide ethnic senses centered by the southern France and Spain. Third, the hybrid sense as the essential characteristic shows the uniqueness in his design by not only combining the modern materials, technologies, and futuristic emotion but also liberally compromising and associating the emotions based on a mixture among the follows; the historic representative styles, the foreign materials, the diversity between the Eastern and Western culture, and all elements, details, trimmings In the fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.1-15
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• 2003

Buttons in general reflect the culture of the society, and their values depend on practicality, decorative feature, and symbolism. Their infinite potential enables us to attempt various original changes in formative factors such as forms, patterns, colors, materials and sizes. In addition new styles, methods, and techniques are tried to show that the decorative feature becomes stronger today than it did in the past when the function was more important. Now buttons are not only a factor of clothing but have value as composite art works reflecting the pride, idea and culture of a nation. Moreover consumers' interest in new designs increases everyday as the moderns' desire for unique individuality rises. Button designs of Korea, however, are still far behind in the aspects of materials, qualities, and methods, facilities, and scale of production. And uniform mass production prevails without the buttons of creative and artistic values made due to the lack of specialized designers. Therefore it seems necessary to carry out historial studies simultaneously with the rising interest in button designs now. Prior to developing new designs, the study will examine those of western buttons that are the origin, going through relevant literature and data to define the characteristics of each era and type. It may provide basic data for developing the backward button designs of Korea.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.157-173
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• 2013

In the pleats of the statue in the ancient Greece, a vivid expression is included about clothing, which has organic relationship with a human body. This study examined about diverse expressions of pleats that were shown in the Greek sculpture, based on understanding about a pleat meaning and function, and clothes. As a result, the clothes, which were shown in the statue in the ancient Greece, were reflecting spirit and fashion of the times. The pleats, which were expressed in clothing, are closely related to a human body and simultaneously are those that a sculptor showed own creative intention in a work by reflecting a historical demand, thereby having become an important element of dominating the image in the whole clothing. Also, a change and development in expression were being progressed according to a flow of each period. Amidst what expressiveness based on lines are excellent, the unity and the dynamic formative characteristic were forming the mainstream. The design-based elements related to these characteristics are judged to possibly give many inspirations to designers in the modern fashion design sphere, which is mixed diverse styles, and are considered to be able to be helpful even for establishing newer and more creative design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.123-137
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• 2006

Christian Dior has been standing to a good position in fashion and make-up for a long time, and it has been growing up continuously. The purpose of this study was to find out data that a point of view on sensibility. So first, this study analyzed image components of Christian Dior fashion, then this study examined aesthetic characters of Christian Dior fashion. For researching the image of Dior based on an historical consideration of Dior, subjects were fixed in this study. 1) Analyzing image components of Dior fashion 2) Examining image characters of Dior fashion 3) Researching consumers understand how to image of Dior fashion. The study was theoretical and established method; using more than a graduate student-major in clothing and make up, survey$(2004.5\sim6.)$ and SPSS 10 program statistics method. As the results, in Dior fashion, this study analyzed the factors of shape, color, material and texture, and that indicated character of chic, classic, gorgeous and romantic image on the foundation of elegant beauty. As consumers understood that as a same image. By analyzing the image as an emotional side, it could be fundamental data of emotional marketing for Asian.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.41-54
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to trace the development of cotton Early Chosun Period by examining the historical literary sources : such as production of cotton various uses of cotton trade with other countries The developement process of cotton fabrics during this period can be divided into three stages. The first stage which can be discribed as a settling period lasted 27 years from A.D. 1392 to 1418. In this stage cotton fabrics were just about to be used as fabrics for popular clothing. The second stage which can be discribed as a developmental period lasted 50 years from A. D.1418 to 1468. In this stage cotton fabrics were mainly produced in the southern parts of the country which are Kyungasng-Do, Choongcheng-Do and Jeunla-Do. And cotton fabrics were used not only by the common people but also by the royal family. The third stage, that is the last one was an extensive period and lasted from A.D.1469 to 1592. In this stage as the demand for cotton fabrics greatly increased the production from southern parts of the country fell in short of the supply needed. Therefore the production was extended to the northwestern parts. In addition cotton fabrics finally came to be used as money to value the goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.18-28
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• 2009

Korea Ancient Gagye in Clothing history has the following meanings with ceremonial, social, and aesthetic aspects, related to symbolism of its formality and procedures, flexibility about social aspects, and clothing beauty. First, Gagye must be worn in formal ceremonies with its clothes. Different Gagye in different time and place means the symbolism of its formality and ceremonies. Gagye played a big role as a means to carry out national ceremonies In diplomatic relationship with China. Second, Korea Ancient Gagye had been worn in every class irrespective of social status. Because it could be worn reflecting personal preferences even in old communities. Additionally Gagye had flexibility to reflect the historical aspects and improved various Gagye types reflecting Buddhism and practical science. So Gagye becomes significant sharing the common value with Korea Clothing culture. Third, Korea Ancient Gagye developed aesthetic spirit concerning beauty of Clothing. In the Age of the Three States, Clothing and Gagye types kept balanced and made good harmony. Gagye had gotten little exaggerated and expanded and become changed into loaded hair type.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.53-64
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• 2013

Culture has played a pivotal role in fashion from time immemorial. The objective of this research is to explore the power of cultural affiliation in fashion. The selected study setting is the Kandyan Kingdom of Sri Lanka. The Kandyan Kingdom of Sri Lanka lasted almost 3 1/2 centuries from 1474-1815. The whole period faced different foreign cultural forces. As a result of such diverse cultural influences the Kandyan dress showed a hybrid formation of Western and South Indian and Sinhalese traditional sartorial features. Sewing techniques and unsewn dress arrangement methods were mixed together. The dress became an amazing blend of Eastern and Western dress items. They combined different aspects of foreign dress together to yield a unique result. The analysis comprises observational study of actual descriptions made by observer- participants, historical records, murals of the period review of ancient literature and research papers relevant to the subject. Reliability of the data was ensured. The pictorial data were cross checked from different literary sources. Many original sources were used. Results: Culture and fashion have strong interconnection. When features of culture change, trends of fashion are gradually correspondingly changed.