• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.117-130
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the 'sexy look' of the Paris Haute Couture evening dresses of the past 10 years from 2005 to 2014. The results are as follows: According to the occurrence frequency analysis of the fashion images of sexy look evening dress, the type of sexy look that appeared the most is the romantic sexy look, followed by erotic sexy look, ethnic sexy look, minimal sexy look and avant-garde sexy, respectively. According to the design component-specific analysis of evening dress for each Haute Couture house, 7 Haute Couture houses have used H-line silhouette over the past 10 years, each H-line silhouette being different. In terms of material, Valentino, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Chanel and Dior have shown a trend of favoring see-through material, Gaultier and Armani showed a lot to combine different materials. In terms of color, Valentino, Chanel, Dior, Gaultier, Armani have shown a general trend in the last 10 years to express sexy look by using attractive and mystical black tones, Elie Saab has shown skin color a lot by using brown family colors and Givenchy has used white family colors. According to the design components analysis for each sexy look fashion image, the H-line silhouette showed the most frequency to represent sexy looks. In terms of material, avant-garde sexy look, ethnic sexy look and minimal sexy look showed a lot to combine different materials to express sexy looks, but erotic sexy look and romantic sexy look are characterized by using thin see-through material. As for the color, black series has been most represented in the last 10 years for the Haute Couture evening dress sexy look.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.755-765
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Chanel. It first reviews the lives and the fashion philosophy of Chanel, a senior designer and Lagerfeld as representatives of the maison, from the haute couture collection since 2000. The results of the study are the following. First, reinterpreting the tradition, Chanel reproduced historical dress items or silhouette with modern sense, or she created a new modern Chanel image through her original restructuring and dismantling. Second, Chanel expressed balanced beauty of compounded eclecticism by accord between simplicity and ornamentation, which meant her design showed impartial beauty with simple silhouette, decoration with colors, accessories, and ornaments. Third, Chanel did not divide the value between men and women, and instead expressed androgyny through dismantling each gender's characteristics by borrowing or mixing. As a result, she emphasized the female image or created a new style through expressing symbolic image embracing masculinity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.39-58
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• 1998

In this research, first of all, the special feat-ures of Haute Couture design world (1990∼1996) prevailed in Paris and Rome are investigated, and additionally the understanding of collection concept and design structure analysis are performed to show the various method-ology of creative design. Expression method and design method are the main criteria in analyzing, and the main results of this research are summarized as follows : 1. Most of designers in Paris and Rome ex-press the traditional costume style. Paris designers are focusing on the expression of design morphology through the abstraction and re-appearance without being confined to theme expression ; Rome designers are expressing their main ideas utilizing the fashion image as their theme in lieu of expressing the design morphology. 2. Most of the designers in Paris and Rome are using simple lines for their design. Paris designers prefer the plastic design based upon formal and symmetrical balance of informal and asymmetrical balance to the partial trans-formation design ; Rome designers are enjoy-ing rather the partial transformation using the detail and trimming than the plastic design.

• Archives of design research
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.25-33
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• 1998

A Study on the Plasticity of the Gather Represented in Haute Couture The Gather is the plastic technique to represent a sense of voluminosity by pleating the plane of costume and manifests the emotional effects , such as both functional aspects and the construction of form, optical illusion effect, textural feelings from materials, tactile transformations, etc. So it is used as the tool to represent the plastistic beauty of costume. The plasticity of the ancient gather was the drape arising according to the curve of the body, but the type of gather recently found on the haute couture does not only retain the activity and functionalism on which the technical element and the ornamental aspect are mixed with other techiques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.99-112
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the higher value-added characteristics of tailored jacket designs, which are major items of French luxury brands, in an effort to raise the competitiveness of domestic fashion designs. The characteristics of the jacket designs from the 1940s to the 1970s, the golden age of Haute Couture, were examined. Based on this, the characteristics of the higher value-added expressions of the luxury brands were established by analyzing the tailored jacket designs that appeared in the Paris collection after 2010. The results are as follows: the characteristics were categorized into 'traditional value expression,' 'conceptual value expression,' 'retro value expression,' and 'creative value expression.' Traditional value was expressed as the representation of the styles inherent to the golden age of the Haute Couture houses, and the status of the luxury brands with history was represented by equally arranging the size and characteristics of the elements of the designs related to jacket silhouette. Conceptual value was reestablished as contemporary identity into which the traditional ideology of the houses and the present designers' sentiments were grafted by developing the designs with the theme containing the identity of the past Haute Couture houses. Retro value was utilized as the strategy to differentiate the luxury brands with long history from contemporary products. Creative value was expressed as tailored jackets with new concepts of shape variation and usage conversion by combining creative sentiments with the high quality techniques of Haute Couture and appears to be able to create a new consumption market of luxury brands in the global fashion market.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.163-175
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• 2010

This study is a part of the integrated investigation of the design of Yves Saint Laurent, and aims at examining the background of the appearance of art inspiration which the artistic quality and originality are particularly seen. And also, I would like to examine the source of the power that transcends periods, dealing with issues in the design. From the mid 1960 to 1970, Yves Saint Laurent who leaded the global fashion trend, displayed the Art Inspiration works with the innovation of fashion in Paris, rediscovery of the trends and colors in Modern Art, and background of Entourage and so forth. He brought in the various artistic genres to the fashion, and his Haute Couture collections which were created by the passion for the movie and theater art, expressed the freedom through his strong identity in the Modern Art & Culture and the atmosphere of that period. Eventually his works are reappeared transcending the generations as the fundamental power of Modernity, through the restricted line of his own, strong contrast of colors, and insight for the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.63-74
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• 2020

Modern clothes are part of formative arts and express experimentation and originality. This tendency is especially prominent in structural fashion. This study set out to analyze structural fashion in various aspects, examining and analyzing the expressive and formative characteristics of Deformation and contribute to the development of creative fashion design. The approach of peer debriefing was used with three fashion experts to identify structural clothes in the women's haute couture collections from a total of 24 seasons from S/S of 2008 to F/W of 2019. The clothes with Deformation characteristics were then identified to analyze expressive and formative characteristics. The expressive characteristics of Deformation in structural clothes were exaggeration, distortion, and recombination. Exaggeration was expressed with exaggerated sizes, forms, and excessive use. Distortion was expressed with distorted forms and functions and through optical illusions. Recombination was expressed with the recombination of forms and roles. The formative characteristics of Deformation were maximum, playfulness, and unfamiliarity. The study connected the expressive characteristics to the formative ones and examined them simultaneously, finding that "distortion" and "playfulness" represented the expressive and formative characteristics, respectively. The characteristics of Deformation are expressed in various ways in structural fashion. If they are considered, they will make valuable contributions to creative ideas.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.59-77
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to use data from studies of headdresses which might be helpful for creating new fashion styles. Headdresses in 2010 S/S-2015 S/S Paris haute couture collections were analyzed in the following categories: years, season, brand, type, color, material, and image. The types of headdresses were categorized as hat, hood, decorative or complex types. The hat type was elegant with a modern style, and coexisted with an exaggerated avant garde style. The hood type wrapped around the head with many examples having a distinctive sculpture on top of the knot. The decorative type varied dramatically in form and materials. The complex type was a blend of all the other types with the designer's individuality being outstanding. The characteristics of headdresses were revealed first, as an enlargement of the materials category, second, as an expression of dramatic forms, and third, as complete coordination of the creative fashion image. The headdresses illustrate the designer's creativity in producing a variety of images. Henceforth they will be important as fashion items and independent designs in fashion styling.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.54-67
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• 1997

Now, this time we regarde as daylife is a part of culture in novelty view of modern culture study. Specially, we can see terms about style surfing supermarket style through visulization process for critic, combination, reconstruction, of modernism, that is post modernism. Not new style show up any more but displayed union of past style history complex, slices of decoration series. A designer group called as memphis, they designed such like that. Our view for fashion could be new in the technology, mixed media, cyber situation is stimulated us and accepted in extened concept of culture. In this study, I approched as a view of streetism cyber punkism haute couture Romanticism linked extension concept of culture. Haute couture fashion has the most historical, and constructive and decorative aspects, and regarded as principle of construction of deconstruction. And this season trend is romantic & emotional image are complexed.