• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.296-312
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• 2018

In this study, we analyzed the whole design of the necklace in detail, which reflects the artistic sense of handicraft in couture. The purpose of the study was to identify the characteristics of the design based on the analysis findings and to provide basic data to help fashion designers. The research method entailed analyzing trends in necklace design - viewed in fashion magazines and on websites - by year, season, brand, kind, material, color, and image. The identified necklace design characteristics were as follows. First, artistry and originality are dramatically expressed through the use of a broad range of materials. Second, due to the necklace's role as an object of perfect beauty, in a number of images, the necklaces were presented in convergence and contrast with overall costumes. Third, the dramatic effects of layering revealed a strong presence and individualized styling. Necklaces are created with diverse sculptures by realizing the creative imagination of fashion designers. Even though they looked a little different every year, there were designs in the collections constantly. Round shape and princess length were preferred. In particular, the mix type was used to express dramatic effect by focusing neck part in entire styling which different length of necklaces were layered and worn. As a result, it meets the needs of consumers who emphasize brand differentiation and diversity, and it is believed that the role of necessities in fashion will continue and it creates economic demand in the fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.34-56
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• 2005

This study analyzed the formative relationship between clothes and hat, and to find out the development direction of next hat design. To do these purposes, Fashion photos were picked up from all kinds of fashion magazines containing in Paris from the 1990's to 2004 S/S and some designers' collections. Then 1,381 photos were selected through two screenings. At first time, 1,500 photos were selected to have the relationship between clothes and hats, and finally 1,381 photos were picked. The method to analyze was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.877-886
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• 2006

The Purpose of this study were to study Retro-hat design. To do these purposees, the focus of theoretical approach was literature research, and hat design was attempted on the basis of the research. The focus of theoretical background was on previous research and fashion-related literature. Photo materials to analyze retro-hat design is Haute-Couture collection in paris from the 1990's to 2004 and some designer's collections. Then Retro hat design is 85 in 1,381 hat photos. The results obtained through this process were as follows. In the hats of Retro, the past style such as an Egyptian wig, a snake-shaped hat in Crete, a Medieval knight hat, Liripipe, Tricorn hat, or Bicorn hat was reinterpreted and expressed. Since 2003, Retro characteristics has became strong and frequent. By designing a hat on the basis of the direction of hat design, this study intended to find out the development direction of hat design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.73-80
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• 2010

This research examined the design characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet, a female fashion designer who left an enormous legacy and made a great contribution to the high added-value fashion industry. Her techniques can be dividing in to three types: the bias cutting, the design by geometrical methods, and the classical style of ancient Greek clothing. This research also intended to study the design cases in which Vionnet's drapery images are applied to modern fashion, mainly the haute couture works that have appeared at Dior collections since 2000. In terms of the characteristics of Madeleine Vionnet's design, First, she produced the best achievement in dress and ornament history by developing a new technique called bias cutting. Second, her work was groundbreaking because it changed the previously planar approach to the female body into a solid conception by cutting and connecting geometrical pieces in the form of quadrangle, triangle, and a quarter-circle. As a result, her works depicted feminine beauty to the fullest extent through the combination of the human body, excellent materials, and the most sophisticated technology and personal skill. Third, her approach was a classical style tinged with the Greek costume image. With this style, which was born by reinterpreting the key tone of the Greek epoch in a modern way, and transcending and even changing tradition, she created a form of beauty that only she could.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.489-500
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• 2012

This work surveys the trend and dissolution characteristics in headdress that appear in Jean Paul Gaultier's collection. Along with a related literature review, a total of 903 headdress pieces shown in collections 40 times (excluding the common caps and hats) were analyzed, covering from 2001S/S to 2010 F/W of Jean Paul Gaultier's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter. The headdress trend indicated in his collections was divided into such subgroup forms of folklore, usage of natural things, usage of artificial things, religion, retro, scarf, variations in headgear, mask and veil, atypical type and abstract. Such an expression tendency was so unique and mixed characteristic that it was hard to define its form and structure thanks to enlargement and exaggeration, extremity in ornaments, and use of foreign materials, which led to creative dynamics. Gaultier's headdress also reflected the following characteristics: first, expression of difference indicative of time deconstruction; second, uncertainty of meanings via deconstruction; third, text interactivity via deconstruction of gender and material adopted; fourth, decentralization through dissolution of the Orient and the Occident.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.147-159
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• 2013

This study aims at developing and producing the creative design of a lingerie look after reviewing the aesthetic value about lingerie look featured in John Galliano's works. As for the research method, the selection process from the works was followed together with literature review for empirical analysis over lingerie looks, where 2,764 pieces in total were reviewed from Galliano's Pret-a-Porter collections covering from 2001S/S until 2010F/W and Christian Dior's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter collections that he is in charge of as head designer and 291 pieces were finally singled out that show the lingerie look image well. Then, the formative expression was examined about those looks and the characteristics were induced from them. Formativeness expressed in Galliano's lingerie look, in term of lingerie style, was categorized as erotic, retro, and deconstructive. The glittering and smooth material like silk and satin, and the visible material like lace and chiffon were mainly used for material rather than foreign material. By doing so, the romantic and erotic image was highlighted. In the production method, it was grouped into transposition of wear, direct and indirect exposition, and deconstructive way. These aesthetic characteristics introduced by formative expression appeared in the form of eroticism, play, and deconstructiveness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.95-108
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the historical change of Paris Collection in relation to the social and cultural environment. Together with the various changes in society, creates fashion, the historical background of the Paris Collections is analyzed from the end of the 19th century until the present. The research method includes analysis entered on data from literature and magazines. From this study, the following conclusions can be reached. 1. Paris Collection is composed of various situations such as the economic aspect, the changing society, the change of the costumes, the change of consumer's consciousness, etc,. 2. The position and role of Paris Collection will be changed in the future. But, there is no alternative. Paris Collection is the best system which we need in our society. 3. Since the level of the planning of the apparel industry becoming raised rapidly, Paris collection tend to avoid the traditional aspect. 4. In order to make good product, good understanding of the historical background need. It must be considered to understand changes such as consumers lifestyles, social trend, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.1-14
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• 2010

This study is a discussion of the expressive characteristics of contemporary fashion design with floral images. It aims to help understand the overall trends of contemporary fashion design and textile motif design and expand the potential expression fields of originative design to natural objects such as flowers. Methodologically the study analyzed 976 pieces of data gathered from Haute Couture and Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-Porter collections of 2005S/S-2009F/W, according to their types of expression. The study results show a share of 42.7% for plane type expressions by printing or weaving and a share of 51.5% for relief type expressions, compared with 5.7% for solid type expressions. However, those expressions represented elegant femininity with emphasis on formative beauty and were applied to fashion accessories or hair adornments. The expressive characteristics found from the analysis were represented by natural images, feminine elegance, and decorative aesthetics of handicrafts. Flowers in the contemporary fashion purify the internal emotions of humankind stand for personality and beauty in many different ways of expression and serve as a means of expressing more artistic values breaking out of stereotype.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.97-111
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• 2000

The term Japonism was coined in France where the predilection for Japanese art forms was immediately apparent, influencing Impressionism, Symbolism, Post-Impressionism, and later the Art Nouveau movement, all of which reflect aspects of Japanese art adapted to Western style. The 1968 May Revolution in Paris changed traditional thinking and shifted the center of fashion of the 1970's from haute couture to pret-a porter. At about the same time, having recovered from the destruction of war, Japan started to emerge as a leading economic force. The Japanese clothing designers, who were inspired by their own traditions, began to present their collections in the West. Hanae Mori's dresses with Japanese floral motifs were the first to appear. The West was captivated by the colorfully layered clothing of Kenzo Takada inspired by peasant and working class kimonos. And Issey Miyake was acclaimed for his innovative concepts of ‘one piece of cloth'. In the 1980s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto achieved recognition with their deconstructivist and minimalist approaches to fashion. The clothing proposed by these Japanese designers has transcended not only national and sexual boundaries, but also those of accepted materials in which to work. These designs suggest new possibilities and are unrestricted by preconceived ideas of kimono or of Western clothing. The emergence of Japanese designers as a powerful creative force in the late twentieth century has created a new dimension to the term Japonism in fashion. By integrating the clothing traditions of the West and Japan, while at the same time departing from them, a new international genre of clothing has been created.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.37-45
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• 2006

Jean Paul Gaultier, debuted in 1970's and referred to as a bad boy in Paris fashion industry with his abnormal and ingenious ideas such as skirts for men, underwear outfit, etc, is a leading fashion designer. This study nay find its meaning from the fact that this study defines how the voluptuous beauty, one of the figurative beauties inherent in Jean Paul Gaultier's design, expresses in the movie costume and understands the world of the designer's fashion to provide a foundation to fashion designers who are looking for a new area where they can actively involve in. For the study, the 'The Fifth Element (1997)', in which the voluptuous beauty, Jean Paul Gaultier's representative figurative beauty, is fully revealed, and also it is his latest movie he participated in as costume designer, was selected and costume design is analyzed using DVD screen capture program. Also, this study reviewed his design with his collections from 1997 when he was invited to Haute Couture and began to actively perform his works down to date and also referred to numerous materials, fashion magazines, movie magazines, Internet data and etc. From the results of analyzing Jean Paul Gaultier collections, firs, the beauty he is pursuing is projected broadly in three types- the voluptuous beauty from clothing innovation, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature, the voluptuous beauty from exposure. Second, the movie ${\ulcorner}$The Fifth Element${\lrcorner}$ is well revealed the world of Jean Paul Gaultier's art presenting visual amusement and variety of attractions. Finally, the results of analyzing costume by characters say that the clothing innovation and the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Leeloo's costume, the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Korben Dallas's costume, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature on Zorg and Ruby Rhod's costumes are well shown respectively.