• Title/Summary/Keyword: HandCraft

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The Study on the Buttons (centering around 19th-20th Centuries) (단추에 관한 연구 -19, 20세기를 중심으로-)

  • 이영란
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.22
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    • pp.263-276
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    • 1994
  • The achievement of notable social reoforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries needlessly speaking remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns such as :1) high industrialization 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly the industrial world of the but-tons too established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced, The design (incused design) used in the 19-20h centuries are : men landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, tec, 1, The classification o f the buttons by materials Techniques shapes colors marking (Incused design) used in the productionof buttons in the England United States of America Laska Italy france Denmark Japan and India are categolizzed as : natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are : Matal Enamel Iodine Agate, Coral, Green jade(Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and bone etc. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button in-dustries are : Artificial jewell glass Acrylic material Styroform Celluloid and Nylon etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work inlay work precision casting press mosic dye etching, processing, engraving and embossed carving etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons in -dustries are : Round shape however elliptical column angular and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are : The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as : Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design(incused design) on the buttons are embodiment and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination abstractive with has offers much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the in-dustrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense ideology and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional ornamental and symbolical aspects : 1. The functional role : The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for dress how-ever the buttons beyond from this role of function now a days. 2. The ornamental role : The ornamental role of he button beyond from this role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape materials colors 2) technique locations size and design (incused design) 3) The ramaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area such as matchs with the color of garment of contrast with brigtness of colors contrasted as complementary color and so and so. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting press handcraft inlay work etching mosic etc,. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses location can be de-termined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits, However the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence rhythm contrast harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role : Since the button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations political background cultural as-pect etc. on the buttons. The design of buttons in the western circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanis and handcraft. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the but-tons however materials used in the buttons are : Bone of livestocks ivory, turtle shell are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly the level of buttons indus-try of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of western circles. It is highly suggested therefore the but-tons industrial field of Republic of Korea shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.

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The Korean Peninsula security and Military Strategy of USA and China (미.중의 군사전략과 한반도 안보)

  • Son, Do-Sim
    • Journal of National Security and Military Science
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    • s.4
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    • pp.289-350
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    • 2006
  • The world has been rapidly restructured in an agenda of national security from center of military strength to that of economic strength since the post cold-war era China military leadership-division carried out RMA through learning of a lesson from Gulf war in 1990 -1991 and Iraq war in 2003, thus the leadership-division made an attempt to convert the military system to a technical intensive system. The principle based on RMA of China military is (National defense strategy) drafted by the central military committee 1985 and (Four modernization general principles) 1978. China has introduced Russian high-technological arms and equipment in order to build up the military arms greatly thanks to an economical development, and they take pragmatism line as chinese socialism with their strategy to make secure a position as military powers such as they successfully launched a manned spacecraft and are building an air-craft carrie and soon. USA has a theory of dichotomy whether a country is a cooperator for USA, or not. and also enemy or friend since 9.11terror, thus USA is different from their direction of police. This is because USA stands a position as the superpower of the supremacy hegemony of the world. We must be carefully aware that USA considers as important area for Middle east, West south Asia, Central Asia and Northwest Asia to meet the demands of 2lcentury. Accordingly, the focus of USA's military strategy will be probably concentrated at the above mentioned four areas. On the other hand, USA enjoys such a superpower position due to collapse of USSR which was the past main enemy since the post cold war era. We could give an conclusive example as fact that USA has recurred to unilateralism But USA carry on the military operations to the terror groups at global around by converting thje military strike strategy to pre-emptive strike strategy since9.11 terror, 2001. USA seeks for transformation to the mobile military forces with light-quantity oriented in order to carry on such the military operations and makes progress GPR, And the USA forces in Korea makes progress a military renovation as part of such a military strategy. On the other hand, USA promotes the measures of choose for the countries standing at the crossroads of strategy and carries forward a main scheme of provision for four priority aims that the leaders of a hostile country and mis-country shall be prohibited from use and obtainment of weapons of mass destruction. Accordingly, this treatise found out a significant meaning to have an effect on the national security in the korean peninsula.

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A Study on Glass Mirror Trade and its Characteristics of Craft after Joseon Dynasty (조선 후기 유리거울의 수입과 공예품의 특징)

  • Park, Jinkyung
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.52 no.4
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    • pp.206-225
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    • 2019
  • This paper examines the trade and development aspects of glass mirrors through the literature records of the Joseon Dynasty, and studies the characteristics of existing glass mirror crafts by referring to the terms and types shown in the literature. The glass mirror in the records had called western mirrors(西洋鏡, 洋鏡), glass mirrors(玻璃鏡, 玻瓈鏡), stone mirrors(石鏡), etc. Glass mirrors were imported mainly through trade with Russia and the Qing Dynasty since the 17th century and were banned from importation in the late Joseon Dynasty. These mirrors were something new that caused a great stirring in Joseon society in the 18th century, and in the 19th century, it grew larger as a commodity needed for everyday life, especially with trade with Japan. At that time, glass mirrors were used for various purposes, such as installing large glass at a store, which were not the standard mirror usage of confirming one's appearance. These mirrors surprised Koreans in Joseon who experienced them at Yanjing Liulichang(燕京 琉璃廠) in the 18th and 19th centuries. As a result, the demand for glass mirrors rapidly increased and quickly surpassed that of bronze mirrors. Consequentially, new crafts using glass mirrors instead of bronze mirrors in Joseon began to be produced and used after the 18th century. In particular, integrated flat boards of glass mirrors were developed as crafts used indoors. It was convenient to use the hair comb box, a long-time presence in Joseon society, with the bronze mirror. This kind of mirror remained apparent in various genre paintings, including the Taepyeong Seongsido(太平城市圖, 'A Thriving City in a Peaceful Era') collected the National Museum of Korea which reflect its populism of the times. Also, the Mirror Stand(鏡臺) used in the Qing Period was produced in Joseon, but there was a difference in the way of making the drawers and box shapes between two nations. On the other hand, the Face Mirror(面鏡) was made to look at the face. Various crafts made with the aesthetic sense of Joseon, such as the ox horn inlaying craft technique, were produced with auspicious designs. In the 19th century, glass mirrors were imported from European countries, such as France, Denmark, the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom, however after the end of the 19th century Japanese crafts were popular. Glass mirrors, which were popular in the Meiji and Taisho eras of Japan, were imported and also the Mirror Screen(鏡屛) using large glass mirrors were used. In particular, the mirror screen had developed wood furniture since the previous time, which were used for banquets and large spaces, such as the drawing room, and were imported from China and Japan. In addition, the western architectural effect of attaching a mirror to the wall was also attempted to adjust the brightness of the space and introduce another image and scenery in the mirror. This was done at Deoksugung Palace's Seokjojeon.

A Study on Textile Design of William Morris (월리엄 모리스의 텍스타일 디자인에 관한 연구)

  • 이경희
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.163-174
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    • 2001
  • William Morris(1834-1896) was the most versatile and talented of all British nineteenth century polymaths. Since his death over one hundred years ago his achievements as an artist, designer, manufacturer, shop-keeper, poet, author, publisher, printer, collector, teacher, conservationist, political activist and environmentalist have influenced the lives and work of people throughout the world. Moris is now best known for his attractive and colorful patterns. The decorating firm of Morris, Marshall, Fault & Company(Morris & Company after 1875) was established in 1861. Over the years it produced works, ranging from stained·glass windows and furniture to tapestries, carpets and printed and woven fabrics, that had great influence on the course of British design. His earliest experiments with the craft were amateurishly worked embroideries made for his own use. Before long, Morris began to produce textiles on a more commercial basis. In order to control production properly, Morris set about learning the various textiles techniques, first dyeing and blockprinting, hand-loom jacquard and eventually, carpet and tapestry weaving. This extraordinary involvement with the practical side of manufacture separated Morris from all other designers of his time and contributed in no small way to his success. Morris's designs for textiles, embroidery, dyeing, woven, carpet and tapestry were commercially produced, that are most universally admired and frequently copied today. These have a timeless quality arising from the designers respect for and knowledge of the technique. Of equal importance was his love of nature, evidence of which can be seen in even the smallest details of each of his patterns.

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A Study on Folkcraft Processing Art and Designing Development-Especially Centerin garound Plant-Stalk Works (한국민속공예제품 가공기술 및 디자인 개발에 관한 제고방식-초경공예제품을 중심으로)

  • 남상교
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.13-41
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    • 1989
  • The raw materials for plant-stalk-folkcrafts are cultivated in the whole country. Most Korean farmers, to increase their income, have produced mats and containers with various plants as a side line from very long ago. At first, they began from the instruments of life and then made folkart and at last get to manu\ulcornerfacturing of industrial folk craft. The folkcrafts, made of plant-stalk, which could nor conform to changing society, are partly declined and partly handed down as the traditions. The social change today, however, makes living conditions more speedy and multisided, accordingly the characteristics of demand also become in\ulcornerdividual and various. While the demend is various like this, suppliers cannot answer demendants' requirements, and consequently, the demand and profit cannot be increased. According to this, the purpose of this study is set up to give an answer to the situation that is at the traditional standstill, through an examination of the motives. I. The crafts of plant-stalk are made only in an organized relationship between agriculture, industry and art as it is compounded art of gathering raw material, manufacturing, producing, improv\ulcornering design and production conditions. It may be possible that a farmer gathers material and weaves it manually but in others, it is im\ulcornerpossible to refine, bleach and dye because the process requires a professional industrial treatment. It is impossible to make art works to a farmer as every farner does not always have aesthetic sense. Though a farmer or producer has these all abilities, it is not desirable to him from economical view. 2. The development or improvement is essential in many sides but the most important thing seems to he in design. According to reports, it is, howevt!r, fact that the crafts improved in design of existing works have more expanded the sales than newly developed works. Therefore, ir appears advisable to improve designs of existing things positively as they have merit of occupying a position already, but on the other hand, new crafts have to be also developed and the producer should grasp the proper time. 3. Building up an industrial complex to improve design with collecting the producing districts for this works scattered allover the country is very desirable for speedy communication, intensive educa\ulcorner tion or training, and effective guidance. 4. In producing for export abroad, before everything, must know the life environment, custom! and manners, main thought of the country, and then produce according to these. S. The crafts of plant-stalk are the fIrst industry in present but in the futher it should change intc second or third industry. 6. A synethetic organization for supporting side line should be established for effectiveness, and experts have to be secured and also the educational-industrial complex and activation of study should be preceded.

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Yoo Young-kuk's Early Constructivism: Utopianism in (1937) (유영국(劉永國)의 초기 구성주의: <랩소디>(1937)에 나타난 유토피아니즘)

  • 유영아
    • The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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    • no.9
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    • pp.93-121
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    • 2010
  • This study is about Yoo Young-kuk's early works which show constructivism, especially focus on his debut painting, for the 7th Dokuritsu Bijutsu Kyokai(獨立美術協會, the Independent Fine Arts Association) in Tokyo in 1937. The work was painted 2 years after he had started his study in Japan in 1935. It was the first painting that applied Constructivism. played an important role for Constructivism to be a leading art in his abstraction. After this picture, Yoo was soon devoted to the principles of Constructivism-- Faktura(material), Tektonika (tectonics), Tekhnika(technique), space, construction-- in his painterly reliefs. This article examined why Yoo concentrated on Constructivism for , what the characteristics were, and what influences were on other works from 1935 to 1949. In addition, I investigated in which period was painted and how Constructivism was spread in 1930s and early 1940s in chapter 2. I scrutinized Rhapsody in chapter 3. When Yoo created Japan was under the Fifteen Years War(1931-1945), and a major discourse was the Japanese Spirit at that time. It was connected with construction of an ideal nation which the Japanese ultra-national fascism pursued. This ideological pursuit was intended to unite the Japanese people for total war system and to restore a national dignity which had been fallen down due to Manchurian Incident(1931). Thus, on the hand, Kokusai Bunka Shinkokai(國際文化振興, The Society for International Cultural Relations) and the Nippon Kosaku Bunka Renmei(日本工作文化連盟, Japanese Werkbund) were supported financially by the Japanese government. On the other hand, the government enacted regulations to opposing parties which would distract Japanese people's unification. As for the Japanese art world, the merge of art groups was carried out through remodeling of Teikoku Bijutsuin(帝國美術院, The Imperial Fine Arts Academy) in 1935. This brought out continuous dispute and disorder. Young artists who felt difficulty of entering an entry of Imperial Fine Arts Exhibition repeatedly grouped and disbanded for small art groups to build their standing, which they pursued Surrealism and Abstract art. Among them Constructivism was considered as the latest trend and was popular in craft, design, architecture as well as fine arts. In the year before he painted , Avant-garde theatres including Constructivism theatre were introduced in a feature article of September, 1936 in Atelier, which was dealing with mainly avant-garde arts. Books related with Constructivism were translated into Japanese, and Gestaltung Education had become active since the publication of A Compendium of Gestaltung Education("構成敎育大系"(1934)), Salvador Dali(1904-1989) was also introduced, so Surrealism was drawn more attention by young artists. reflected popular trends. Yoo analyzed the Japanese avant-gardists' archaic taste in the Independent Art Association that he submitted his painting to. And then he entitled 'Rhapsody' which derives from Ancient Greek's epic poetry and deliberately set up images in a scene. In chapter 3, I examined a theme which was planned carefully by sorting favorite images from the Japanese Surrealism. was a result that Yoo Young-kuk observed objectively the phenomenon that young artists dreamt of Utopia or longed for Nostalgia passively and lethargically under wars. And then he otherized himself from that circumstance. First of all, for he used the typical icons of Japanese Surrealism such as the horizon, flowing clouds, and vast plain that were considered stereotypes of Arcadia. He, however distinguished himself form those Japanese Surrealists. He made his own vision about Utopia by referring Lyubov Popova(1889-1924)'s stage design. His objective point of view was expressed by positive and dynamic images of structure and human's actions. Constructivism which was attempted in had an effect on other early constructive works, and the principles of Constructivism were sought hard in reliefs, paintings, and photos.

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The analysis of design education in "Arts & Life" (현행 고등학교 교과서 "미술과 생활" 의 디자인 교육 내용 분석)

  • 이지수;정은숙
    • Archives of design research
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.221-230
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    • 2004
  • Design textbooks for general education bring our attention to the education of design as a part of whole education. In this vein, this thesis tried to analyze and discuss on the current status of design education contents included in the 7th educational curriculum of the Art & Life. This study had a historical review of the contents of arts education as well as a review of theoretical contents in art education. Also this thesis analyzed five types of Art & Life text books currently used at high schools with weight given to the design and to the status of pictorial coverage in the text books. Finally, the thesis presented problems of design education through a comparative analysis of high school arts education and design education. Through the analysis, inequality of design contents in education was reported. It was clearly attributable to the backgrounds of text book writers. For example, authors with graphic design backgrounds tended to lack product and environment design concepts, while hand craft section of text books all showed a biased contents towards traditional Korean arts. In the analysis of pictorial coverage, similar to the composition of academic contents, coverage was concentrated in the graphic design areas; inequality in quantity of pictures found with a ratio of 1 to 4. In terms of areas of arts, design contents in text books were concentrated only in arts creation chapters among the 3 major areas of arts appreciation, understanding, and creation. Design education is attained in an atmosphere of creativity and the provision of ample teaching material. It is because diverse contents will generate the development of arts. When compared to design education curriculum of U.S. and Japan, these creativity put their focus of design education in the understanding and emotional contacts, so that every application is easily attained. In terms of expression learning, creativity and diversity of material are emphasized. From Kindergarten to middle, and high school periods, apparently the care contents of deign is emphasized. A textbook in the 7th education curriculum is one of the sources for education. In designing text books, learning process should be emphasized following subjects and natures of arts so that creativity can be achieved. Therefore, a systematic approach for design research and educational development for material would be needed in textbook design.

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