• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.231-242
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• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing how the dualism of hippie style in the modern retro-fashion, namely, the neo hippie style and the hippie chic style were expressed. For this study, domestic & foreign fashion magazines, preceding theses, literatures, an encyclopedia, and Internet sites were reviewed. The results of this study could be summarized as follows; 1. Silhouette : The neo hippie style was expressed in slim and long silhouette to show the natural beauty. The hippie chic style was expressed in various silhouettes depending on designer's tastes. 2. Color : The neo hippie style was expressed in strong color and analogous color coordination to show richness of human nature. The hippie chic style was expressed in psychedelic color, multi-color, and fluorescent color to show an unconventional and a future oriented idea. 3. Material . The neo hippie style used such soft, thin, and flexible materials as chiffon, satin, silk, knit, etc. to show the natural beauty The hippie chic style used expensive and luxurious materials, high-technological materials, harmony of different materials, etc. 4. Pattern . In the neo hippie style, it was generally used various patterns including plant, animal, insect. In the hippie chic style, it was widely used the natural pattern as well as the ethnic pattern. The neo hippie style was characterized by the natural beauty, purity, elegance as style symbolizing the social problem, on the other hand, the hippie chic style was characterized by designer's identity suggesting an idea of new style rather than a symbol of the social problem.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.73-82
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• 2018

This research investigated the mechanical properties of the 4 different types of $3{\times}3$ cable stitches on weft knitted fabrics. The 4 kinds of cable-stitch fabrics were knitted under the same knitting conditions, then the mechanical properties, such as tensile strength, elongation, stiffness, etc. were measured according to the Korean Industrial Standards (KS K 0642). The knitting time for the sample produced by the knitting process 1 was the shortest among the 4 different types of samples. It means that the knitting process 1 would have benefits of higher productivity if there is no yarn breakage during the knitting of the cable stitches. In the test for tensile strength, the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have tensile values of approximately 8~11% higher than the sample produced by knitting process 1. The test for elongation also shows that the samples produced by knitting processes 3 and 4 have up to 18% higher elongation values than the sample produced by knitting process 1. On the other hand, the stiffness test showed no significant difference between the 4 samples. This study is expected to increase the competitiveness of the local knitting industry as a result of providing basic data on the mechanical properties of special knitted stitches, such as cable stitches.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.331-338
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• 2000

To study on the actual condition of care label attached to clothing and consumers' perception, 250 summer clothes sold at department store-blouse, trousers, one-piece dress, knit cardigan and skirt-were investigated during July 2000. In addition, a questionnaire was administered to 192 women in Taegu during August. The fiber contents of surveyed clothes were polyester 100% & polyester blend (26%), rayon 100% & rayon blend (18%), cotton 100% & cotton blend (17%), wool 100% & wool blend (14%) and others. All clothes surveyed were attached care label and the signals showed on care labels were 4~6 kinds about cleaning, squeezing, drying, bleaching, and ironing methods. 92% of clothes had to be dry-cleaned and only 8% could be wet-cleaned. Considered the surveyed clothes were for summer which needs frequent washing and the clothing items, the number of clothes had to dry-cleaned were too many. The bleaching instructions were no chlorine bleach (74%), no bleaching (21%) and others. The ironing instructions were cool ironing ($80{\sim}120^{\circ}C$) with cover (24%) and warm ironing ($140{\sim}160^{\circ}C$) with cover (69%) primarily. The drying instructions was dry on a hanger in the shade (54%) and 38% had no signal or incorrect signal. The properties of summer clothes considered important by consumers were wrinkled hardly, hand-washable, machine-washable, needed no iron and etc. Actually most of summer clothes were hand or machine-washed. Also, the majority of respondents felt inconvenient to have to dry-clean summer clothes. More than 80% respondents looked over care label and fiber content label before buying clothes. However most of respondents did not followed that instructions exactly and thought care label instructions were not correct. Considered this results, the suppliers have to make efforts to attach correct and appropriate care label which furnish the correct information to consumers.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2012

This study investigated the structural coloration and fabric hand of the caustic reduced fabrics for emotional garment using structural color yarns, which was spun by 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers capable of producing basic colors using biomimetic technology. The colorations of the three kinds of structural color yarns were confirmed using multi angle spectro-photometer, and their triangular cross sections composed with 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers were measured using SEM and were discussed with layer length in relation with coloration and spinning conditions were also set up. The apparent color difference and reflectance of the three kinds of fabrics with different density and weave pattern were analysed as ranging from 400nm to 700nm. The optimum fabric structural design which is made by warp and weft densities(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) and caustic reduction condition by $100^{\circ}C$ temperature and 60minutes with NaOH, 20g/l solution were decided through analysis of the mechanical properties and fabric hands of these three kinds of fabrics treated with 3 kinds of the caustic reduction conditions. And it was shown that the rate of caustic reduction was increased from 13% to 23% with increasing temperature and time of caustic reduction. The extensibility, bending rigidity and shear modulus of caustic reduction treated fabrics were decreased by treatment of caustic reduction, on the other hand fabric compressibility was increased. And it was shown that the hand value of specimen number one which was treated with temperature $100^{\circ}C$ and time 60minute was the best and the hand of this fabric was better than that of Morpho $fabric^{(R)}$ made by Teijin co. Japan.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.113-124
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide for the basic data useful to designing a scientific and systematic merchandising program for infants' wear brands. For this purpose, designer and MD working for 8 local infants' wear brands were surveyed to analyze the conditions of their designing and merchandising of infants' wears. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Only 3 brands employed MD for their merchandising departments. The average number of clothing designers employed by the subject brands was 3-5, while that of colorists was 1-2, and that of accessory designers was 2-3. On the other hand, the average number of patternmakers employed was about 1, while that of sewer was 4. 2. Many of the sample infants' wear brands tended to collect and analyze the information for merchandising, while most of them relied less on outside planned data. The information source upon which they relied most was 'local and foreign fashion magazine', followed by 'data surveyed by local and foreign department stores' and 'data surveyed for local fabric markets' in their order. Meanwhile, the main color represented 70-90% of the total colors, while the pastel groups accounted for 30-40% and vivid color groups for 40-50%. On the other hand, knit accounted for about 60% of their materials, while woven and sweater accounted for 30% and 10%, respectively. 3. In overall terms, most of brands felt that their brands were preferred as much as or less than their competitive brands, while consumers felt expensive for infants' wears. Namely, most consumers were dissatisfied with the price levels of infants' wears. On the other hand, consumers were found to favor the pastel color groups a little more, while being aware of each brand's sizes more or less precisely. 4. The medium upon which the infants' wear brands depended most for their advertisement was 'magazine', followed by 'radio' and 'catalogue' in their order. Most of them were analyzing the results of their sale turnover monthly or frequently in order to review their sales performances in comparison with their competitors. Most of brands bothered to program a sale strategy 4 times a year, primarily to dispose the stocks or find a breakthrough for their sales activities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1546-1557
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• 2010

This study analyzes the status of foreign direct investment in Korean textiles and fashion firms and investigates the factors determining their performance. A total of 1,251 cases (including 1,116 manufacturers and 135 of distributors from the 2009/2010 Korean Overseas Business Directory published by KOTRA) were used. The results of this study are as follow: 1) In the case of manufacturers, China was the most heavily invested in country, and the Asian region that included China, Vietnam, Indonesia and Bangladesh consisted of 80% total investment. In cases of distributors, China was also the first ranking country and other countries, that included Vietnam, United States, and Japan are major ones. 2) In terms of the foreign entry mode, wholly-owned subsidiaries represented 90% of total cases. As the index of the degree of localization, the ratio of local employees was very high. 3) Different countries were utilized by year, type of business, and area of process. In manufacturers, Indonesia, China, and Vietnam were the most heavily utilized countries in the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s, respectively. For distributors, China was the major market ill the 1980s and 1990s but Vietnam has emerged as the biggest market in the 2000s. In terms of area of process, China was for manufacturing fibers and fabrics, Vietnam was for most items, Indonesia was for assembly, knit, accessories, and Bangladesh was for embroidery and accessories. 4) The determining factors of the age of foreign business as the proxy index and performance of foreign business entry, were different by the type of business. For manufacturers, four factors including the dollar amount of investment, number of local employees, the mode of foreign direct investment, and entry to China were significant. On the other hand, only two factors including the dollar amount of investment and entry (other than China) were significant distributors.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.43-51
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• 2009

The cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen or argon plasma, enzymes(cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and examined for their weight loss and conditions for treatment for the environment friendly finishing. In the plasma treatment argon gas had better effect on the weight loss than oxygen gas did and the weight loss of all the fabrics was increased as increasing discharge power and discharge time. The weight loss of cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) fabrics decreased in a large measure after 1 hr but that of tencel didn't decrease after 1 hr. In case of cellulose fibers oxygen gas plasma induced chemical functional groups on the surface of substrate more than argon gas plasma did so the weight loss of wool was larger than that of cotton, tencel fabrics in oxygen plasma-enzyme treatment. The weight loss of cotton and tencel fabrics decreased the initial stage because oxygen plasma pre-treatment caused cross linking as well as etching effect but argon plasma pre-treatment didn't. The plasma pre-treatment cleared the way for enzyme treatment on the whole but oxygen plasma pre-treatment bear in hand the increase of weight loss more or less because of the cross linking on the surface of cellulose fibers. The appropriate conditions for plasma treatment was 10-1Torr, 40W for 30minutes and for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of $3g/{\ell}$, pH 5, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of $4g/{\ell}$ pH 8, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.49-58
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• 2015

This paper investigated far-infrared emission characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage knitted fabrics for emotional garment. For this purpose, ZrC imbedded heat storage PET was spun with high viscosity PET imbedded ZrC powder on the core part and low viscosity PET on the sheath part by conjugated spinning method. Ingredient analysis and far-infrared emission characteristics assessment of spun filament were carried out by EDS and FT-IR spectrometer. Two kinds of knitted fabrics were made using texturized ZrC imbedded PET for measuring thermal characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage PET. Zr peak was certified by EDS measurement and it was confirmed that content of Zr was 19.29%. Far-infrared analysis revealed that emission power at the range of wavelength, $5{\sim}20{\mu}m$ was $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, and emissivity was 0.906. Heat storage analysis by KES-F7 system revealed that $Q_{max}$ of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was lower than that of regular PET one and warmth keepability rate was higher than that of regular one, which means that ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric has heat storage property. Thermal conductivity of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was higher than that of regular PET one which was caused by high thermal conductivity of Zr itself. Hand property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was not inferior compared to regular PET knitted fabric, which preferably was found to be dependent on knit structure and surface property.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.