• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1598-1610
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• 2007

The knit design of this study was developed from reconstruction of Gustav Klimt images including gorgeous colors, symbolic lines, patterns and decorations, and the purpose was laid at making of unique, creative costume image with modem sense and adding artistic value on crochet knit wears. As for the contents and method of this study, We analysed formative aspects of Gustav such as line, color and shape Klimt in his art, and reviewed the cases where his works had been employed in modern costume. The conclusions are as follows; First, painting is important motif for contemporary costume design, and according to the individual thinking and expression, can be a major momentum for development of original design. Especially the organic lines and decorative patterns of Gustav Klimt paintings were suitable for rich decorative motif of costume design. Second, the unique colors of Gustav Klimt paintings can, if introduced to costume, allow new color combination. Third, crochet technic, by the texture of material, can present rich expression even with the basic knitting only. The embroidery metallic thread which is the main material for this study, was good for expression of gorgeous and classy image, in spite of the difficulties from its typical luster and embossed feeling. And the mohair, used as decorative motif, allowed more three dimensional expression with its rich voluminous and tangling property. Fourth, in applying Gustav Klimt paintings to costume design, other technics such as knitting, beading, applique, and patchwork helped creation of more unique clothes, presenting possibilities of rich artistic expression.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.280-291
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to research characteristics of costume which is expressed in Gustav Klimt's Paintings. In the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20century Vienna, considered to be the fashion Mecca after Paris, the creativity of such artists allowed the 'Anti-Fashion Movement' to set itself up against the frippery of the costume of the time. The Secession Movement received the effect of Art Nouveau and Symbolism and Klimt led of this movement as a forerunner in Vienna. Many women appealed in Klimt's Painting with unique costume which contrast to traditional fashion that period time. The characteristics of costume in his paintings are as follows. Firstly, Klimt drew in the women's costume which made by designers of Vienna Workshops, at one of motive of his work of art. Costume got a opportunity became a new art field, because there was no conceptual thinking of a fashion designer at that time. Secondly, the costume of Klimt' paintings had both anti-fashion design and elements of fashion, so he gained considerable support from leaders of high fashion who was the upper classes. Thirdly, both anti-fashion and fashion appeared in his painting at first period. Costume which made at the Vienne Workshop appealed portraits of Klimt paints at the second period. Klimt interested in Naturalism, Japonism, Orientalism and Greece style and expressed his characteristic techniques at the last period. Lastly, Klimt liberated the woman from a physical and spirit restriction through his various artistic presentations.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.101-101
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• 2001

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2002

The following paper deals with the interaction between an Austrian art trend from the late 19th century until World War I, the Vienna Separatist Movement, and the Vienna Workshop dress and its ornaments in part designed by the artists belonging to the former mentioned school. Gustav Klimt′s paintings along with his photographs and pictures and articles published in the "Wiener Mode" magazine were subject of analysis. The focus was on Klimt′s paintings with female themes whereby a comparative analysis was made between the development of the forms, hues and ornaments of clothing and the style of paintings at that time. The whole development was classified into three phases. The first period from 1897∼1905 marks the birth of the Vienna Separatists along with the clothing reform movement. The heyday of the Separatists represents the second phase from 1906∼1913 and the decline of the very school and the Vienna Workshop period lasts from 1913∼1918. Refromed dresses were started to be recognized as alternatives, from 1897 when the Separatists started to gain foot until 1o05, and Kimt and Van de Velde published designs that were comfortable and elegant. From 1906 to 1913 the expressionism and Reform Mode of the Vienna artists started to flourish. But during the War the Separatist Movement, which triggered the modernazation of Vienna declined and instead the decorative art of Vienna Workshops started to develop. The asymmetric design of the dress, exotic patterns, shades of complementary colors and reformed clothing were frequently used by Kimt and other Separatists. This is an instance where fashion design directly influenced art and different branches can reflect the same aesthetic standards within the same time frame.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.19-34
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• 2010

This study aims to examine associationistic psychology and psychological operation associated with each color image, then to study the relation between particular colors used in paintings produced by Gogh and Klimt in different times and these painters' psychology in a bid to explore the meaning and role of psychological operation of colors. The findings of the study indicated that red and blue colors represent mainly negative images, while yellow and orange colors represent mainly positive images and psychologies. Specifically, in the case of Gogh, red expresses anxiety, a negative image, yellow symbolizes passion, a major positive image of emotional liberation, dark and thick green and the green involving blue symbolize negative images, emptiness and despair, and blue represents negative images of internal desire conflicts, and screaming. Also, purple used together with white represents anxiety and depression. In the case of Klimt, red represents negative images of anger toward mother and suppressed energy, yellow, an alternative to gold color, symbolizes the positive image of hope, passion, desire and eroticism, the arrangement of strong gold and orange colors represents a color of psychological healing more than a color of hope. As such, colors used in paintings produced by modern Western painters express the physiological conditions, psychological feeling and emotion in life, at the time when the artists produced such works. It was found that colors are yet another language of expressing emotions, and symbolize the psychologies of the artists, indicating that colors have something to do with the painters' experience and emotional impulses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.55-68
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• 2003

The purpose of this research is to expand the realm of a button for a decorative purpose through embossing the effect and gravity of a button in fashion by designing the new ceramic buttons which are mainly used for decorative function in costume. In order to acquire a motif for the design, I analyzed several works of Gustav Klimt. As the result, those feature can be classified into the use of decorative lines, mosaic forms, and harmony of golden yellow and black, and it can be applied to buttons and clothes design. The sort of clay used in manufacturing the ceramic buttons was white clay to have high density and to diffuse light well, and press shaping techniques using plaster mold were employed. The baking was performed in an electronic kiln at $800^{\circ}C$ for the first time and at $1250^{\circ}C$ for the second time. Based on wearable designs in 2002/2003 F/W Trend of Interfashion Planning, I made three pieces of dress which could express the button's capability of decoration with effect. This is expressing a simplified form which shows up in details of and yellow and red pink were used to harmonize with golden yellow clothes. As an application of shapes of foliage in I transformed its size and form to be consistent with a jacket and a tube top. To accord with golden beige costume, I made a curve, showing up in Klimt's paintings, with golden color on a circle shape which was also a main motif in his paintings.

• Archives of design research
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.131-142
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• 1998

Gustav KJimt (l862-1916)was a pioneer in the field of painting and decorative art. He was severly critized by the art critics of the time because of his rebellous art style. He firmly believed that there should exist a new kind of art that should portray the essence of the new liberalized era and that shoud reveal the idea of an artist in his work. Klimt was an aesthetic who sought beauty in life. He represented man as a micro universe within the macro universe. In order to portray man's inner being and to depict the process of life and death in nature, he symbolically employed female entity as a medium. Through uses of the circles, triangles, rectangles, and the spiral forms in his paintings, Klimt symbolized the meanings of man and nature. The circle symbolizes the universe and female entity; the triangle, human being; the rectangle, the earth and male entity; and the spiral, a universal force that attracts the opposite poles. The highly decorative characteristic nature of Klint's paintings and murals has often been modified in the pattern design field. It has been applied to home-furnishings and apparel textile designs, stained glasses, tiles, and posters. The techniques and layouts of these designs have been modified so that they may suit their manufacturing processes. In general, these pattern designs have two spectrums. One is the kind of design that has faithfully carried out Klimt' s original painting style. The other is the kind that has extracted the essence from the Klimt' s original art work.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.97-104
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• 2011

Art has always been a witness to its time. The art of our century has lived through two world war. In that time Friedensreich Hundertwasser was born to a half Jewish family in Vienna in 1928. He lived and died as a painter, architect, designer, ecologist, writer, innovator... etc. He was impressed form Gustav Klimt, who pioneered the Viennese Secession which was the Austrian expression of the Art-Nouveau mouvement and inspired by the works of Egon Schiele from an early date. His style as an architect was heavily influenced by Antonio Gaudi and some of the Jugendstil architects. Although his architectural work is comparable to Gaudi in its biomorphic forms and use of tile, but is currently renowned for his unique styling. His character as follows; First, Bold color - His use of color is bold, and he has a strong sense of which color work well together. Second, Curved line & Spiral - It's the primary shapes in his works against the tyranny of ugliness and the iron rule of its straight line. Spiral reveal as a transautomaism. Third, Harmony with nature - His work is the creator of beauty, of nature of harmony, peace of joy, against the contradictions of our post-industrial society. He represented these various characteristics in his works. Hundertwasser first achieved notoriety for his boldly-colored painting, he is more widely renowned today for his revolutionary architectural designs.