• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.35-45
• /
• 2019

This study was initiated to add value to fashion illustration as a genre of plastic art, as its importance as a progressive visual art is growing. The research purpose is to analyze characteristics of Grotesque, a subculture that emerged from the challenges and problems of groups which deviated from social and cultural trends, and to develop fashion design illustration utilizing the characteristics unique to that subculture. As a method of research, this study examined the characteristics and expression methods of Grotesque, which appeared in fashion literature, referenced a prior study of Grotesque, and developed fashion design illustration using Grotesque as a based. The result of this study are as follows. First, the characteristics of Grotesque that are applicable to fashion illustration were derived as 'evil, aversion, playfulness, heterogeneity, and abnormality'. Second, the expressive elements of Grotesques, reflecting the beauty of ugliness, present a methodology for developing new and creative fashion design illustrations. Third, it was found that Grotesque fashion illustration is a visual tool that is suitable for expressing the problematic origins of human existence, values, alienation, and social chaos. Fourth, 'arthropod' motifs were identified as a suitable theme for extracting the newly integrated Grotesque images through the process of contradiction and confrontation between humans and objects. Fifth, the Grotesque fashion illustrations could be understood in terms of plastic arts, and could provide a gateway to rediscovering human dignity. Based on the finding, we expect that creative design thinking and development that combines the motifs of various themes and Grotesque's expressive methods will proceed more deeply and specifically.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.41 no.10 s.188
• /
• pp.85-100
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque images in fashion specially focused on the postmodern grotesque with the relationship between body and fashion. The results are as follows: The postmodern grotesque fashion images in the years of 1990-2000 can be analyzed as trans-stylistic, trans-boundaries which have been set by the modem western white elite men group. The postmodern grotesque fashion images in the years of 1990-2000 can be categorized as 1) unclear boundaries between genders: body and dress; human being and non-human being; life and death; wholeness and fragmentation; clear body and abject body. 2) violence to the body: body mutation by simplification, exaggeration; body injury.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.13-25
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• Art History and Visual Culture
• /
• no.21
• /
• pp.126-147
• /
• 2018

This paper is to find the theme and meaning of the Beauvais Grotesque tapestry considered a conundrum. The three works are chosen from Beauvais Grotesque consisting of six tapestries, which are The Offering to Pan, The Musician and Dancers, The Camel in the J. Paul Getty Museum. I analyzed these works by dividing them into grotesque ornaments, chinoiserie motifs, and scenography. The Offering to Pan shows the influence of Raphael's Grotesque tapestry, but Beauvais work followed the design of Jean Berain's Grotesque with arabesque. In The Musician and Dancers, chinese ceramics, textiles, and Chinese people in edge were noted. Especially, the Chinese with yellow skin in the border reveals the European gaze on China at that time. In the 18th century, Chinoiserie was prevalent through stage designs rather than books. The Camel, playing Brighella, makes it clear that this tapestry is a stage of Comedia dell'arte. The characteristic of Comedia is a mixture of genres such as music and dance, with no scripting 'improvisation.' Features of Comedia are 'improvisation' without a script and a mixture of genres such as music and dance. Thus, the Grotesque tapestry transfers the stage of the Comedia into threads woven. In addition, the horizontal stage decoration with the disappearance of the perspective vanishing point is related to the era of regent of Philippe d'Orl?ans (1674-1723). Above all, the grotesque, Chinoiserie, and scenography are all fantasies separated from reality. Therefore, the Beauvais Grotesque tapestry represents of 'improvisation' and 'fantasy' in which there is no narrative theme or meaning, as if the script of Comedia did not exist.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.17 no.3
• /
• pp.51-60
• /
• 2004

The esthetics of 'grotesque' and its entertaining values have many things in common with the characteristics and properties of animation as a medium of expression. The ways to express grotesque images in animation have expanded its realm of expression with the development of modern image digitalization technologies. The grotesque images that were expressed by the combination of photographs and animations and objet animations have been developing its disharmony in a more realistic manner with full 3D animation technology and realistic motions of virtual characters with motion capture. The subject matter also has become more diverse with the advance of modern scientific civilization. An example is the appearance of Cyborg(cybernetic+organism) characters and the grotesque images in the modern times mainly start to appear in animations dealing with the isolation of human beings among its characteristics. Also, the changes of the expression methods of grotesque images along with the development of visual technology development in the future will transform its methodological forms by changing its expression methods to VR forms and interactive visuals. Thus it is expected that the grotesque images and characteristics will change into a visual genre which emphasizes dehumanization.

• Trans-
• /
• v.15
• /
• pp.105-140
• /
• 2023

This study aims to investigate the interrelationship between German expressionist dance and grotesque art, with a specific focus on the analysis of Pina Bausch's renowned work, <Café Müller>. German expressionist dance emerged as a response to the social instability and economic downturn that followed World War I, leading to the introduction of expressionism and grotesque aesthetics. The incorporation of grotesque expression in dance plays a critical role in boldly portraying the destruction of the human condition and its underlying causes, thereby offering insights into social contradictions and the erosion of human nature. This research thoroughly explores the intricate connection between German expressionist dance and grotesque expression, providing a comprehensive analysis of Pina Bausch's <Café Müller> to reassess the profound meaning and significance of expressionist dance. Additionally, this study delves into the inherent grotesque tendencies embedded within the work, surpassing conventional notions of visual beauty and ugliness, and strives to reinterpret the essence of grotesque expression through the nuanced movements of the dancers and the integration of auditory elements within the performance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
• /
• v.3 no.2 s.2
• /
• pp.39-46
• /
• 2005

Art-Make-up has resulted in occupying one of the central areas of this culture. Art Make-up is currently undergoing various changes. The viewpoint of modern make-up is the infiniteness of emotion such as the subjectively individualized expressions and aesthetic values breaking with conventional thought. The most significant change is the idea of the 'grotesque'. The purpose of this research is to re-clarify the development of the diversity, professionalism and artistic feature through the study of Art make-up based on the 'grotesque' style. This also strives to focus attention at observing the deep and mysterious workings of the human inner world. In order to explain the features of 'grotesque' Art make-up, six images below are presented. Firstly, Inharmonious images. Secondly, disgusting inhuman images. Thirdly, mechanical images. Fourthly, distorted and exaggerated images. Fifthly, diabolic and horrific images. And, lastly, playful images. These six images thoroughly demonstrate the 'grotesque' features. The fact at we can see the 'grotesque' features in Art make-up explains the enormous growth of Art make-up and the unlimited range of expression in this field. It also implies that the choice of material and theme is not restricted to universal artistic criteria. In closing, it is necessary that Art make-up is thought of not as actual art but more as a tool for its subjects. As a result, this research will provide valuable information for studies in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.4 no.3
• /
• pp.43-54
• /
• 2002

Some factors had influence upon the grotesque image formation expressed in fashion: for instance, thanatos, religions, fin de siecle (end of the century), the aesthetics of ugliness, subculture group's resistance and technology development, etc. Those factors have formed a grotesque while exchanging influence each other, and have following features: First, the thanatos, which is destructive and aggressive instinct of the inner world of human being, creates frightening object and motif to form the images of grotesque. Second, from religious point of view, the church made the Devil a tool for maintenance of power: They manipulated physical body and give a damage to it to sublimate it in holy existence, so that they could feel catharsis. Third, there was fin de siecle (end of the century) to let people have negative life attitude, such as uneasiness on following century, eschatology, skepticism and nihilism, etc. Fourth, the ugliness having unpleasantness and disharmony occupies governing position when our society becomes corrupted and uneasy, and the aesthetics of ugliness discloses the inconsistency of ideal and beautiful life in the grotesque images. Fifth, subculture groups, i.e., the lower classes, homosexual and the youth's group, etc, form the grotesque images by political and ideological resistance, complaints and specific identity, etc concerning governing culture keeping traditional ethics consciousness. Sixth, recent technology development has destroyed a boundary between human being and machinery, and bio-technology development has created transplant operation, plastic operation and other human body transformation operations, and genome research, etc has raised human being's identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.40
• /
• pp.151-170
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• Trans-
• /
• v.11
• /
• pp.65-95
• /
• 2021

Grotesque, which has often emerged as a breakthrough in Western art to protest rational and classical pure beauty, is often seen in modern art. Grotesque, along with the concept of pendulum, appears in infinitely expanded forms across cultures, arts, and society. In particular, transformed body images through deformatization and deformatization of the body are interpreted as strong rejections that seek to break away from formalized beauty. The main purpose of this study is how the body reproduced through body deformation, distortion, and bonding in Dimitris Papaioannou's work can be interpreted within the grotesque category. To this end, he examines the Grotesque discourse and modern meaning underlying the interpretation of the work and identifies how the fragmented and expanding body, which is currently actively discussed in the dance world, has an interaction with Grotesque. It selects , , , and , which are the main attributes of the grotesque, focus on conflicting familiarity, life, hatred, and beauty. Based on this, we would like to confirm that in contemporary dance, the reconstructed body reveals concealed things rather than expressing an unrealistic fictional world, and seeks new possibilities beyond boundaries as well as reconsider existing aesthetic views.