• 복식
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• 제56권6호
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• pp.16-32
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• 2006

Perceived meaning of color uniquely forms and is being highlighted as an element of creative design in the modern design industry as well as traditional culture. It is necessary to compare the perceived meanings of color and clothing color of Korea and Japan in order to find out the model of Korea's original color. The purpose of this study Is to draw the results of examining the perceived meanings of color revealed in the culture, arts and clothing color of the both countries and comparing them depending on contemporary times. The scope of study is limited from the ancient times to modern times (about BC.IC-early20C). In the methodologies, the literature and the empirical study focus on both counturies' literature, including art history, ethnology, and the history of clothing; and their paintings and relics, which are all related to clothes. The perceived meaning of color of Korea was prominent with the beauty of nature and gorgeousness throughout the history. The colors were mostly white colors, light colors, and single colors such as obangsaek, which are high pure degree colors by which color is changed depending on darkness and lightness, while that of Japan featured clothing colors combining various colors and middle colors.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.59-72
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to understand how 19th Century's romanticism fashion is expressed in modern fashion and to investigate their relationship. The materials for study of Post-modern fashion after the 1990s are collected and analyzed from ${\ulcorner}Gap\;Collections{\lrcorner}$. The characteristics of romanticism such as sensuality, ornamentation, exoticism and mingler, which were demonstrated in the previous study, are analyzed as follows in the modern fashion. ${\cdot}$Sensuality was represented by exaggerating the human body with silhouette of past romantic fashion, making the human body mysterious with see-through material including romantic patterns and ornaments, and emphasizing human body line using thin drape-like materials. ${\cdot}$Ornamentation was created by combining skills brought from the past with newly developed techniques and materials so that it provides gorgeousness. ${\cdot}$Exoticism was expressed in more diverse exotic patterns, colors, accessories and details because of accelerated internationalization. ${\cdot}$Mingler was achieved by using materials which does not seem to be suitable for romanticism, and mixing of contrastive or heterogeneous patterns and materials. It was caused by the scientific development and trend of respecting diversity. Romanticism increases the diversity and possibility of new point of views in fashion, It also shows the desires to seek inner peace adopting images of different periods and culture.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.31-48
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• 2007

The purpose of the this study is to make a historical review of changes in the structural decorations of men's costume from ancient times to modern times and to provide basic materials for developing handicraft decoration techniques and sewing methods in contemporary fashion. Their gorgeousness of collars and sleeves reached its peak along with the exaggerated expression of the human body during the Renaissance when people were free from Christian traditions of the Middle Ages and pursued human pleasures. Huge and decorative collars gave great dignity and formality to the wearer. Sleeves were slim and cuffs were small or nonexistent after the French Revolution. Various decorated pockets had been developed since pockets began to be attached to coats in the 17th century. Pockets were at the bottom of coat in the late 17th century, but they were gradually placed much higher on the coat. Buttons began to be used as the tool for sticking fast body to clothes in the 12th century and became extremely sumptuous accessories in the $16th{\sim}18th$ centuries. Men's clothes were simpler and more practical after the French Revolution. The result was that decorative buttons begun to disappear and metal buttons came out for practical purpose. The number of buttons worn on sleeves was also noticeably reduced. This research suggested the possibility that various decoration techniques could create the unique details in the each part of clothes. In order to develop high value-added products, we need to study various decoration-sewing methods and put to practical use them for creative fashion design.

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.95-112
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• 2006

This study examines the Korean traditional and characteristic coloring through the color of Korean traditional embroidery. This research gives the chance to establish the cultural identity of Korea and presents the aesthetic standard of color images. Also, practical use of Korean traditional colors through this study provide opportunities which develope cultural merchandise in the world. were chosen as the references to analyzed the Korean traditional colors through gungsu: court embroidery, buddhist embroidery, everyday embroidery and clothing embroidery. Because this book published in commemoration of '20th General Conference and 21th General Assembly of ICOM' in 2004, which presented excellence of Asian culture. The color of these works were divided by 'Pantone Solid Color Chips' which organized by CMYK color system and categorized by Obangsaek. 'Gungsu' had vivid and splendid color sense which used strong and bright colors and 'buddhist embroidery' had mild and mysterious feelings which used low saturation.'Everyday embroidery' used the red color group frequently and 'clothing embroidery' had brighter colors comparing to other embroidery groups. The 'Chung(blue)' group had diverse color tone rather than one-tone color. This means that Koreans prefer the 'Chung' and used it regularly, also this color symbolized the racial characteristics. Even though 'Whang(yellow)' was prohibited because the color for emperor, in the case of embroidery, there were a variety of yellow colors from 'gold' to pale yellow and grayish yellow. The arrangement of colors in 'gungsu', tone on tone, complementary and bicolore coloring was used mostly which presented a strong and elegant color sense. On the other side, 'buddhist embroidery' used tonal coloring which gave gentle and noble feeling. 'Everyday embroidery' presented separation and accented coloring which was the example of common people's humor and originality. In the case of 'clothing embroidery', there was dominant lightness, separation, tone on tone and camaieu coloring which added gorgeousness in Korean traditional clothing.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.85-94
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• 1999

It is very signigicant to study a dominant drift of the contemporary formative art. And it's research not only gives us a great pleasure of study but also will be a big help for designers to study how the dominant drift of the contemporary art has developed thereafter, and what it has influenced upon the following formative movement of it. In this sense I think I cannot emphasize it too strong that I gave a subtitle 'Especially analyzed in War and Peace' do my paper because we can find a real aspect of the formative movement rather by sociological point of view than by formative art itself. In this sense, 1 selected Art Deoo as a thesis of research among other things because Art Deco developed socially in respond to general pressure to adapt to modem World, specially, was a stage in an already burgeoning revolution in the decorative arts. Through this sociological point of view on Art Deco I found lots of things worthwhile to research it Art Deco, which I think shows us a special aspect of the sandwich culture between both world wars in Europe, played the important role of a bridge likning its peculiar style with those of contemporary arts in Europe. In this paper the sociological research of Art Deco style will reveal what the European's emotions meant in the socio-psychological circumstances of Deco between both world wars, and where the peculiarity of Art Deco style came from, and especially why the colors of Art Deco was so gorgeous as called 'color for color's sake'. I tried to put the importance of research of Art Deco largely on the sociological or socio-psychological points of view not on the only formative viewpoints. I could draw a conclusion that Art Deco has a contradictive duplicity in its style that can be expressible in a word like 'naivety in gorgeousness, simplicity in complexity, orderliness in confusion, and peacefulness in noisiness'.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.16-26
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• 2006

There have been in the history of western costume a few studies on men's headgear that cannot be the second to the women's headdress in terms of the gorgeousness and variety whereas the studies on women's hair styles and head dresses have frequently been carried out. Such varieties of the headgear in terms of forms and ornaments have still been found with various types. Thus, the study on the change in designs and details of headgear and the recreation of them may contribute to the utilization of the fashion in current vogue and the guidance of the creation for the new design. The aim of this study is to find such changes in the designs and the methods for the production of bonnets which have played important roles to emphasize external characteristics of costumes. As a result, this study may provide key materials for the development of new designs. As with the previous studies on the women's headdress and men's hat, the methodology of this study is to recreate bonnets based on the literature review and the portrait analysis. this study will cover the eras from the late fifteenth century to the mid sixteenth century when bonnets began to be produced. First, the characteristics of hair styles and bonnets are to be reviewed for the selection of bonnets to be recreated. Next step is to make a literature review on the form, materials, colors and ornaments used for bonnets. Finally, the patterns of bonnets is to be illustrated for the reproduction of selected bonnets. Materials to be used in this study for such a reproduction are velvets, silks and wools as presented in the literatures and ornaments to be used are similar to those captured in photos.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

• 감성과학
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.121-128
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• 2009

본 연구의 목적은 TV 화질에 대한 사용자들의 심리적 특성을 평가하기 위한 화질평가척도를 개발하고, TV 화질의 심리 특성과 물리적 특성의 관계를 확인하는 것이다. TV 화질과 관련된 형용사 152개 중 집단설문(남녀 대학생 80명)을 통하여 TV 화질을 잘 표현하는 형용사로 19개의 형용사를 선정하였다. 선정된 형용사는 다음과 같다; '깔끔하다-지저분하다', '깨끗하다-더럽다', '산뜻하다-침울하다', '편안하다-긴장된다', '매끄럽다-거칠다', '밝다-어둡다', '화려하다-수수하다', '변화스럽다-단조롭다', '자연스럽다', '감각적이다', '만족스럽다'. 126명의 남녀 대학생을 대상으로 이들 형용사의 유사성 평정을 실시하고, 유사성 점수에 대하여 요인분석(주성분분석, oblique 회전)을 실시한 결과, '깔끔함' 차원과 '화려함' 차원으로 분류되었다. 그리고 31명의 남녀 대학생을 대상으로 TV 화질에 대한 감성과 물리적 특성과의 관계를 확인하였다. 그 결과 TV 화질에 대한 감성 형용사들은 밝기, 명암, 색농도와 색상의 변화에는 민감하였으나, 선명도의 변화에는 민감하지 않은 것으로 나타났다.