A number of recent Victorian studies have participated in a renewed focus on form. E. Warwick Slinn and Monique R. Morgan, for instance, have contributed to enhancing our understanding of the Victorian dramatic monologue. This paper aims to expand what they have addressed by revisiting the mechanics of the dramatic form as a form, in particular addressing two types of dramatic monologue represented with supreme adroitness by Robert Browning and Alfred, Lord Tennyson, both of whom successfully attempted to widen our epistemology through a large act of the poetic imagination and great intellectual power. To this end, this paper lays particular attention to the role of the reader who is regarded as a key element of the dramatic aspect of the genre. In the dramatic monologue proper, real readers are actively brought into dialogic relation with the speaker or the poet, or both, whereby it seeks to represent an act of play among the poet, the speaker, and the reader. What the genre achieves in this fashion is twofold. For one thing, it pushes itself sufficiently to the very centre of the complex of apparently various narrative motives that animate the genre; for another, it honours the world of multiple viewpoints more than any other previous form of literature, all the more so as readers' views vary across their own time, space, and socio-cultural contexts. Incidentally, in one way and another, the dramatic monologue is of kinship with a Jamesian type of fiction, which is noted for its exterior impersonality. So this paper concludes by suggesting some theoretical implications that the dramatic genre assumes for, not only the naturalist novel, but also the (post-)modernist one.
This study was intended to observe strategic fashion-presentation in Music stars according to the change of the star system in the Korean popular musics. The Korean Music stars since 1990s have been made, fabricated and have excessively depended on the demand of the teenagers. Therefore their distinctive fashion-presentation is considered as more important element than those of the past. Consequently. the characteristics of the fashion-presentation in the Korean Music star these days are as follows : First. Music stars shows fashion-presentation that has a consistent fashion theme. That is one of the key success factor to raise the recognition of star singer. Second. Music star produces fashion images which reflects identity and of subculture. Those appearance have won wild popularity of the Peeps 1990's new generation. Third. although there is no change music genre and emotion. through merely renovation of their fashion image, Music star got diversity and originality of the characteristics of contemporary cultural goods. Fourth. In case of famous dance groups, in the past they maintained a singular atmosphere as a group, but in 1990'Music star group each members of the group have individually fashion-presentation. So, they can get more fans. Fifth, Music singers borrow or duplicate fashion-presentation from each others. Such as similar fashion-presentation guarantees support of the same fans.
The purpose of this study was to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of the intraculturalism expressed in contemporary fashion and to confirm the functions of intraculturalism to establish, visualize, perform the racially indeterminate, ethnically neutral, culturally diverse or ambiguous identity. For this study, the applications of the intraculturalism shown in mass media and consumer culture, such as music, fashion advertisements and collections of high fashion designers from 2004 to 2008 have been analyzed and compared. The results were as follows: The Intraculturalism is reflected in the muticultural music such as Afropean, Jawaiian, Reggaeton and Asian Hip Hop. Intracultural music genres create the hybrid music and fashion culture through mixing, matching and blending one and another culture. Advertisement campaigns for Louis Vuitton, YSL Beauty, Gap and H&M stores have all purposely highlighted models with mixed racial heritage. It is reflected in the latest youth fashion market trend using face that are ethnically ambiguous. The increasingly multiracial, multicultural population is due to intermarriage and waves of immigration. The rising mixed race designers, Narciso Rodriguez, Hussein Chalayan, Vera Wang and DooRi Chung, not only compromise and amalgamate different cultural elements of their heritage and contemporary life but also create new look and fashion image. The characteristics of intraculturalism expressed in the 21st century fashion could categorized into de-genre, de-nationality, de-race and de-culture.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.32
no.1
/
pp.77-87
/
2008
Modern fashion industry creates complex and multiple fashion by amalgamating and mixing all elements that emerged in fashion without limiting them to a specific genre. The results of study are as follows: First, with regard to the conceptual differences among poor look, anti-fashion, and resistance fashion and the background. second, As aesthetic categories of poor beauty, its image with the feeling of poorness, beggar-likeness, worthlessness, poorness, and uncleanness is divided into the beauty of moderation, deconstruction, unfinished beauty, natural beauty, and ostentatious poor beauty based on the formative characteristics and poor look. Third, Oriental and Western poor images are comparatively analyzed. The poor beauty found in Oriental fashion, which is based on Zen aesthetics, seeks loneliness, poorness, and simplicity as an empty origin and features internal meaning that expresses the purity of poor beauty itself and external form that is visualized through no decoration, no color, and asymmetry in material and composition. The poor beauty in the West features non-form of no shape, asymmetry and disharmony and the characteristic in its contents is "distortion", and the characteristic in its expression features external form of "incorrectness" and internal meaning implying modem humans' frustration, resistance to materialism, and skepticism about mechanicalism.
At the outset, surrealism starts from pure art, but surrealism has greatly influenced commercial art and fashion circles, more so than any other genre of art. The critical thinking methods of surrealism and its mode of expression continues to influence fashion theory extensively. Even now, surrealism may be found in the designs presented in fashion circles and is still expected for future lines. Surrealism in modern fashion has been reborn, newly integrated and transformed, based on the features of Surrealism paintings. The characteristics of its forms can be found in a combination of modern material, modern design and new skills and the classical items : bodyform molding context of architecture, experimental and sex-appealing of body. Expression was made by borrowing natural motives and recreating natural fabrics while the existing typical idea about clothes was destructed, with the boundary of patterns changed. Expression was also made by mixing items, uniting future images, and using up-to-date functional techniques. This study is significant that up-to-date technological culture expands cyber-space and increases surrealistic expressions by combined heterogeneous materials, thus arousing much interest. The purpose of this study is to determine interrelationship between how surrealism developed and what formative properties those clothes affected by surrealism obtained in the 1990s.
Modern art is getting more comprehensive and diversified regardless of genre in many forms due to the pluralism and anti-aesthetic trend of the time which is impacted by post modernism. This atmosphere is also applied to fashion illustration which creates synergy effect in cooperation with many different genres. This study selected Matisse' paper cut-out as the subject which would reflect the minimalism and ionism of modern plasticity. By taking this as the motive for fashion illustration, I made seven illustration works with the subject of minimalism of form and color. The conclusion of this study is as following. First, Matisse's paper cut out has controlled plasticity related to the modern ionism and it well fits the modern trend and sensibility which is appropriate for motive of fashion illustration. Second, by upgrading the technique of Matisse' paper cut-out in a modern way such as combination of hand drawing and computer graphic using Photoshop, I was able to make originative and creative illustration works with background and patterns that were closely connected with each other. Third, applying the fashion illustration to other various products is being well received now and I made my illustrations that could lead to follow up studies to apply the fashion illustration to other different products. Matisse' paper cut-our has forms, colors and patterns that can contain both commercial and artistic value. Therefore it is quite feasible for follow up research to apply into many different areas.
The purpose of this study was to review and establish the two concepts of art film and artistic expression in Prada fashion films, through a literature review of domestic and international case studies, as a form of luxury branded content, Prada fashion films are considered to artistic film genre. For the study, aesthetic expression in art films as discussed in the previous research was divided into four types. The study method was to review fashion / art films from the founding of YouTube, specially, works that used digital images from Thunder Perfect Mind, which was introduced in Prada in 2005, to Nylon Farm in 2018, stylistic features were searched by film. In addition, for this study, fashion film was analyzed based on the typology of art films. The following conclusions regarding artistic expression were drawn from this study : First, the Prada fashion films represent a transition to advanced art through a conceptual approach. Second, the causal relationships personality psychology can be cited through the disturbed and fragmented narrative lines. Third, the films help people identity Prada's aesthetics by humanizing the luxury brand. Fourth, the films are a feature of serialization.
The history of contemporary art in the 20th century can be said the history of changes. Today the variety of objects destroy the boundaries of each genre. This study aims to understand the relationship between fashion and art that becomes closer by examining contemporary art in the Gwangju Biennale 2008 to enlarge the range of understanding of mutual communication between contemporary art and fabrics which are the object of fashion. The research method was to investigate the characteristics and expression methods of object fabrics shown in contemporary art through the review of papers published at home and abroad, related literatures, and Internet materials. Also, the meaning, technique, and methods of fabrics were analyzed from works introduced in the Gwangju Biennale 2008. In order to achieve this purpose, fabric was examined as the object of work in Gwangju Biennale 2008. As a result, it is found that fabric plays an important role in changing environment newly with more dynamic, abundant, and comfortable and softer feeling than any other artistic materials and enlarging the boundaries of artistic materials by exploring formative possibility. Furthermore, its multi-dimensional expression characteristic presents unbounded possibility. Fabric which has long formed close relationship with human life has taken its place as one genre now. It departs from the past principles of fabric handicraft and the restriction of a classical norm and becomes characteristic of very wide-ranging selection of materials and free expression. Its soft and warm texture provides emotional stability for a human. Although the peculiarity of fabric as an active concept to human environment and new materials and technique based on the aesthetic consciousness of a human rely on the high development of industry, it is significant that artists' liberation from their concept and material sense is accompanied by the expression of freedom.
The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.
The purpose of this study is to understand the history of 20th century fashion and make-up culture, analyze trend of the modern fashion and make-up, creat a cyber make-up model according to themes and also it will find out how to use make-up as a part of fashion genre. As a result of this study is 1. Looking over change-process in 20th century fashion and make-up history, we can find the popular make-up color and pattern reflecting the society and cultural environments. And also make-up culture reflecting their sense of values and way of thinkings. 2. Analyzing fashion and make up color trend of 2002 F/W, we can find a similarity between fashion and make-up color trend by comparing with hue&tone chart. All of theme have a tendency to be natural, veiled, feminine by neutral color and artifical highlighted, illuminate, transparant by clear-high saturation color. 3. Creating imagemaps, color palletes and cyber model of 4 trend themes by computer graphic, It can give more visual and interesting effect on the cyber space, and also it can help to expect make-up will be dizitalized, visualized and informationalized.
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