• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.46
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• pp.159-170
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• 1999

This study was for reasonable gathering by a fabric and a skirt length. So the purpose of this study was to show the basic data to forecast the gathering effect of gathered skirt which was more aesthetical and suitable for a use in time of making pattern. To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt ength-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced bgy these factors. The following are the results of this research. 1. For this research of fabrics the gathering amounts which were shown visually the most aesthetical silhouette in the same material and skirt length were decided on 1.5 times or 2.0 times. On the other side 0.5 times and 2.5 times of gathering amount were got a low estimation visually 2. Except in case the skirt length was 40cm and gathering amount were 1.0 times and 1.5 times in the same gathering amount and length of skirt it was estimated that wool fabric was most aesthetical silhouette fabric. On the other hand it was got low estimation which the cotton was not good for draping effect because it was got the lowest estimation level in all cases. 3. Considered as a whole in the same gathering amount and fabric the fabric widths for gathering which were shown the most aesthetical silhouette were estimated the length of 60cm in cotton fabric 80cm in polyester fabric and 40cm in wool fabric. Therefore as a fabric was weighty a length of a skirt was shorten so, it was estimated visually more beautiful.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.73-88
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• 1999

To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt length-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation and the shape of hemlines evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced by these factors this study found the aesthetical gathering amount and analyzed the shape of hemlines. The following are the results of this research. 1. In the same fabric and skirt length to estimate a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt the increased amount of the node number of cotton fabric was widest and wool fabric was most stable And when the gathering amounts of each fabric were higher than 1.5 times the node indexes were no difference. According as a skirt length was longer the node indexes assumed a similar aspects but according as the skirt length was shorten an the gathering amount was smaller the node shapes were level and broad. And according to being increased a gathering amount the width of right and left of gathered skirt was generally wider. 2. In the same gathering amount and skirt length in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape of a gathered skirt when the skirt length was 40cm in cotton polyester wool fabrics the node indexes were similar at up to 1.5 times of gathering amount and especially it became very bigger at 0.5 times and according as the gathering amount was increased node index became gradually smaller. The width of right and left of the skirt hemlines of wool fabric was more smaller than polyester and cotton fabrics so it is happen to hang down. 3. In the same gathering amount and fabric in seeing the estimation of a hemlines shape as a variation of a skirt length when the gathering amount of cotton and polyester was from up to 1.5 times and wood fabric was from up to 1.0 times according as skirt length was longer node index in the same gathering amount was decreased. And in case as it was 0.5 times the node indexes of the 40cm and 60cm skirt length were bigger than other factors. In the same gathering amount the width of right and left of the skirt hemlines was smaller at 60cm skirt length and polyester fabric was smaller at 80cm skirt length.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.214-218
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• 2010

This research was to judge on the gathered skirt's shape by visual images that was from the different gathered skirts according to different sewing conditions; fabrics(cotton, mixed-wool, polyester), ratio of gathers(1.5T, 2.0T, 2.5T). Questionnaire consists of 33 semantic differential scale expressing gathered skirt's image, and 10 items of the shape were measured by 3D measurements method. The data were analyzes by factor analysis, correlation analysis, ANOVA. The image of gathered skirts was composed of the five factors of activities, attraction, grace, softness, and ordinary and it was showed that these five factors occupied 68.4% of the total variance. The shape of gathered skirts was composed of the two factors of the side and the front, and it was showed that these two factors occupied 93.6% of the total variance. According to correlation analysis of visual shape, the front was significant in activities, attraction and ordinary, and the side was significant in activities, grace and ordinary. As a result of ANOVA, the visual images were significant in ratio of gathers. 2.5 ratio of gathered skirts were perceived to be more active and attractive, and 1.5 ratio of gathered skirts were more ordinary and graceful.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.472-477
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• 2007

This study was intended to identify the constructing factors and hierarchy of images in the gathered skirts, which is expected to be helpful in shape classification. The gathered skirts were made by different gathering conditions: three kinds of the gathers ratio(1.5T, 2.0T, 2.5T) and different fabrics(cotton, mixed wool, polyester). 45 undergraduate and graduate women students responded to the nine gathered skirts during December in 2004 to February in 2005. 184 words expressing gathered skirt were collected through the investigation and analysis of questionnaires. 32 words arranged in based on the standard form with frequency before conducting factor analysis to identify the constructing factors of gathered skirt images. As a result of factors analysis, 2 factors-H shape, A shape were found out as constructing factors of gathered skirts. To explain the hierarchy of gathered skirt images, cluster analysis was applied. To observe the association of 32 words, dendrogram was introduced, and to interpret the result, five sub clusters were determined. This 5 clusters were continuously combined according to their frequency, based on the factors marks. Two major division of image clusters were 'simple and neat image', and 'fairly good and feminine image'.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.57-58
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• 1998

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.626-632
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• 2010

The results of the image evaluations by various shapes of skirts which are typical female's lower garment were as follows; 1. The composition factors of images by the shapes of skirts were classified into five factors. The 1st factor is lovely image factor, the 2nd is attractive image factor, the 3rd is practical image factor, the 4th is slim-looking image factor and the 5th is long-looking image factor. 2. In the 1st factor- lovely image factor, tiered skirt, $360^{\circ}$ flared skirt and $180^{\circ}$ flared skirt were evaluated to express lovely images. In the 2nd factor- attractive image factor, $180^{\circ}$ flared skirt was evaluated to express refine and attractive images. In the 3rd factor- practical image factor, $360^{\circ}$ flared skirt and gathered skirt were evaluated to express easy and practical images. In the 4th factor- slim looking image factor, males evaluated 8gored skirt and females evaluated gathered skirt to express fat images. In the 5th factor- long looking image, $180^{\circ}$ flared skirt was evaluated to express long looking images by both sexes. 3. In the lovely image factor, gathered skirt was evaluated most differently between the sexes. Both in the attractive and practical image factor, tiered skirt was evaluated most differently between the sexes. 4. In the preference of male and female university students according to the shapes of skirts, both the sexes prefered flared skirt. But the low prefered shapes of skirts were differently evaluated between the sexes; the male students' was A-lined skirt and the female's was pleated skirt and wrap skirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.388-399
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of garment design, fabric type and the presence of lining on the thermal insulation value $(I_{cle}\;and\;I{cl})$ and clothing area factor $(f_{cl})$ of skirts. A standing, electrically heated thermal maninkin was used to measure the insultation value of eighty skirts-five skirt styles with eight different fabrics, with and without lining. The air temperature of the chamber was set at $22.2^{\circ}C{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$ , air velocity was limited to less than 0.1 m/s, and relative humidity was approximately $50\%$. The results are as follows: 1) The Ic, values of gathered skirt and flared skirt, which had high $f_{cl}$ values, were significantly higher than those of other skirts, though the highest $I_{cle}$ value among five styles wer pegged skirt. 2) Insulation values of various skirts were more relevant with physical properties such as thickness, air permeability, and thermal transmission of the materials rather than fiber content. 3) The addition of lining made significant difference in the insulation values of skirts and the differences of gathered and flared skirt were significantly higher than those of othere types of skirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1034-1043
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of the visual evaluation about gathered skirts according to different gathering conditions and objects. The experiment is made of factorial design for three variables-fabric(cotton, wool, polyester), ratio of gathers(1.5T, 2.0T, 2.5T), objects(real thing, 2D digital picture, 3D shape). Questionnaire consists of 33 sematic differential scale expressing gathered skirts' image. The subjects were 50 male and female students majoring in clothing and textile. The data were analyzed by Frequency, Factor analysis, Anova, scheffe's test. The results obtained were summarized as follows; 1. As the open-ended response there were difference among the image according to different gathering conditions and obects. 2. The image of gathered skirts was composed of 6 factors; activities, attraction, attention, softness, moderateness, function. 3. For visual evaluation of gathering conditions as different objects, there were similar as softly in fabrics and lager in ratio of gathers. 4. For visual evaluation of different objects as gathering conditions, there was more difference effect of ratio of gathers than fabrics.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.959-966
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to analyze the shape of gathered skirts made by different gatherings. The shape of gathered skirts is affected by the amount of the gatherings that control fullness along a waistline seam. The gap also has an effect on the shape. We made a few experiments to make gathered skirts in different gathering conditions. The conditions include two types of ratio of gathers, which were given the total amount of gathering, and two types of spread of gathers, which were calculated for waist and hip. Experiments were conducted to figure out the dressed shape through 3-D measurement Exyma- WBS, and also to investigate the proportion, area distribution, and gap of the shape of gathered skirts on the horizontal section map with Rapid Form 2004 SP3, a software for 3-D shape analysis. As the results show, there were differences among the proportion, area distribution, and gap of the dressed shape. It showed that the shape on the horizontal section map was different because the shape between waist and hip per parts on body was not the same.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.11 s.158
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• pp.1598-1607
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the proportion of gathered skirts using a three-dimensional measurement system. And in this experiment, we have attempted to accumulate three-dimensional data of wearing model and find out adequate methods for analyzing shape of clothes. The experimental design consists of two factorial designs. We established three different kinds of fabrics, ratio of gathers. The measurement tool for three-dimensional model was whole body 3D scanner(Exima-WBS2H). Analysis program used in experiment is RapidForm 2004 PP1 and Pattern Design 2000. Data analysis utilizes SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. As the results show, there were different effect of gather and proportion of shapes among the measurements of width, thickness and areas made by different lines of vision in cross-sectional silhouette. And there were difference shapes of section area at each part of gathered skirts between vertical-outline silhouette and vortical-plane silhouette made by gathering conditions. And also the cross-sectional silhouettes and vertical silhouettes were related to shape of clothes.