• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1013-1019
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• 2015

As the interest in leisure and health increases, the domestic outdoor wear industry becomes bigger. The waterproofness of fabrics does not ensure the waterproofness of garments because of the stitch holes during the sewing process even with the seam sealing tapes. Thus the water leakage often becomes a problem during the end use. Still companies use fabrics waterproofness data for garments marketing because they are simple to run the test, less expensive than the whole garment testing, and easy to achieve the quality control. In this study the rain tower system for evaluating the waterproofness of garments has been developed and the waterproofness of the selected waterproof and breathable garments in the market were tested. The rain tower was consisted of rain tower room, rainfall forming system and measurement system. Two different levels of rainfall can be simulated with this system(100l/m²/hr and 450l/m²/hr). Jackets in the market have been tested at two different rainfall conditions. The temperature and humidity data inside jackets didn't provide much information on the waterproofness at severe rainfall condition(450l/m²/hr, 1 hour). However, water leakage was detected on the cotton undershirt inside jacket. 5 out of 8 jackets passed the normal rainfall condition(100l/m²/hr, 30 minutes). The newly developed rain tower system was able to evaluate the waterproofness of the jacket seams. It is recommended the further study on the detailed test conditions for the end use of the waterproof and breathable garments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.136-150
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• 2002

In this study, we proposed a method to be standing customers as the supporting system for the improvement of fashion garment industry which was the marginal growth getting into full maturity of market. As for the customer creation method of Fashion garment company is developing a marketing program to be standing customer as customer scoring to estimate a existing customer‘s buying power, and figure out minimum fixed sales of company to use a future purchasing predict. This study was a result of data from total sixty thousands data to be created for the 11 months from september. 2000 to July. 2001. The data is part of which the company leading the Korean fashion garment industry has a lot of a customer purchasing history data. But this study used only 48,845 refined purchased data to discriminate from sixty thousands data and 21,496 customer case with the exception of overlapping purchased data among of those. The software used to handle sixty thousands data was SAS e-miner. As the analysis process is put in to operation the analysis of the purchasing customer’s profile firstly, and the second come into basket analysis to consider the buying associations for Association goods, the third estimate the customer grade of Customer loyalty by 3 ways of logit regression analysis, decision tree, Artificial Neural Network. The result suggested a method to be estimate the customer loyalty as 3 independent variables, 2 coefficients. The 3 independent variables are total purchasing amount, purchasing items per one purchase, payment amount by one purchasing item. The 2 coefficients are royal and normal for customer segmentation. The result was that this model use a logit regression analysis was valid as the method to be estimate the customer loyalty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.921-926
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to develop upper bodice pattern for obese girls aged 10~12 by using 3D virtual garment simulation system. The criteria for subjects in this study were girls who had over 1.46 of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer Index. A total of 229 schoolgirls who met these criteria were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: First, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new upper bodice pattern considered obese-schoolgirls was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+4.5, armhole depth B/4-1, waist girth W/4+0.5+dart amount, front chest width B/6+2, back width B/6+2, neck width B/12-0.5 and neck depth B/12+0.5. Second, armhole darts were added to compensate the loose amount of front armhole and dart manipulation was used to ensure a better appearance on armhole in the design. The dart side line was modified concavely to help cover the protruding stomach. Curved lines on the armhole were significantly relieved using dart manipulation and the darts side line was modified concavely to reduce the tightness around the front waist darts. Third, according to the results of the new upper bodice pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new upper bodice pattern was appropriate for the obese-schoolgirls. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1359-1371
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• 2011

The purpose of this paper is to compare two avatars made using direct and manual methods and to evaluate the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars. In this study, two subjects were measured by $[TC]^2$ body scanner and the avatars and virtual garments were created by OptiTex software. The direct avatar was made by the direct importation of 3D body scan data and the manual avatar was made by manual input from extracted body measurement. Two virtual garments in a tank-top were evaluated by distance, transparency, and stretch maps. In the results of comparing difference of the direct and manual avatars, the bust and back of the manual avatar are protruded slightly more than that of the direct avatar and the manual avatar is slightly larger dimensions at the bust, waist, abdomen, and hip area in the side view in case of subject 1 and 2. In the results of comparing difference of the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars, in case of subject 1 and 2, the back of the virtual garment on the manual avatar are protruded more than that of the direct avatar. Also, the ease in the bust area of the virtual garment on the manual avatar with a projected bust area was smaller than that of the virtual garment on the direct avatar and the stretch of that of the manual avatar was also high in the bust area. The results of this study are expected to be used as basic information in the apparel industry using virtual try-on technology.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.795-803
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• 2017

This research aimed to figure out the effects of physical features such as BMI, garment size and socio-psychological factors such as self-esteem and depression on the body management. A survey was conducted for women in their 40's and 50's. The participants in this study consisted of 197 women recruited in Daegu and the surrounding areas. Statistical analysis including factor analysis, ANOVA, cluster analysis and regression was done using SPSS 23.0 to analyze the results. Among 3 clusters divided by BMI, normal group showed higher body cathexis compared with overweight group and obesity group. S-size group showed higher body cathexis rather than M, L-size groups. L-size group showed higher scores in nonsurgical body management factor. Self-esteem(+)/depression(-) group showed highest body cathexis among 4 groups clustered by self-esteem and depression levels. On the other hand, self-esteem(-)/depression(+) group showed the lowest body cathexis and highest surgical body management and nonsurgical body management factors. This result meant that the lower in self-esteem and the higher in depression, body cathexis decreased and desire for body management increased. As the results of analysis of the effects of BMI, garment size, self-esteem, depression level on body management, depression was a significant factor on surgical body management; depression and garment size were critical factors on nonsurgical body management.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.617-627
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• 2020

This study investigates the apparel sizing communication presented in online retail websites focusing on women's ready-to-wear tailored jackets and to analyze the meaning of these information as the actual product size guide factor. A total of 34 retail websites were selected based on the highest growth fashion companies list and the best fashion brands list. We collected size information in two types: size specifications including sizing code, body measurements, garment measurements, and size references including customized size guide tools, size information in customer reviews, model size information, and others. Most websites prefer to present garment measurements rather than body measurements that are recommended notations under Korean standards and related regulations. In addition, there was the absence of consistency in presenting measurements list and terms that can confuse consumers in size communication. This study found that the stature measurement was a key factor in size reference despite that it did not represent a proper garment size. The obsolete Korean numbering sizing code such as '55 and '66 was still used in many ways such as idiomatic expressions for body shape. It also implied that we can take advantage of the old sizing code for accessible size information. The finding of this study gives an in-depth diagnosis of current online sizing information problems and suggests useful basic data for developing online apparel size standards and marketing strategies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.963-970
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.87-104
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• 2000

The women's apparel sizing system, currently used in the Korean industry, does not reflect measurement differences associated with varying body types and age. Forty five body meaqsurements were taken on 560 subjects, whoes eages ranged from 18-24. STatistical analysis of the data was coducted by using frequences, crosstables, correlation, oneway ANOVA, Regressio analysis. The results of this study were as follow. 1. Average height of women in their early 20's is 160cm, average bust girth 82cm, average hip girth 90cm and average drop 809. The correlation between height and grth items were low and the correlation of length items in the superior and inferior body were shown to bo high respectively. 2. The average Rhrer index is 1.28 and they ussually seem to be in the thin and standard body group. 3. body types were divided by differences between hip and bust sizes. N type(medium hip), A type (large hip), H type(small hip). A classification by body type showed that N type made up 58% while a type made up 24%. 4. The garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed. 5. The new basic blocks and garment sizes for women in their early 20's were developed as follows : Bust girth (1/2) = 76N, 76A, 79A type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 4cm) 79N type($\frac{1}{2}$B+ 3.5cm) 82N, 85N type ($\frac{1}{2}$B +3cm) Hip girth($\frac{1}{2}$) =N type($\frac{1}{2}$H + 2~2.5cm) Atype($\frac{1}{2}$H +1.5~2cm) Waist girth($\frac{1}{2}$)=$\frac{1}{2}$W + 2-3cm Back length =extimated measure -0.5cm Front length=76A, N (Back length + 2.2cm) 79A, N(back length +2.7cm) 82N(Back length +3.2cm) 85N(Back length + 3.7cm) Sleeve length=Sleeve length +3cm.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.90-100
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• 2017

In this research, consumer awareness investigation and wearing test were carried out for obtaining useful data on the development of thermo-sensitive functional clothing material. A survey involved 216 people in Seoul and Kyeonggi-do, and 200 questionnaires data were analyzed by descriptive statistics and frequency using SPSS 17.0. Four healthy men in twenties were participated for wearing test. Subjects in normal loungewear were exposed to temperature change from the initial temperature $30^{\circ}C$ down to $5^{\circ}C$ for an hour in a climate chamber. The environmental temperature, surface temperature of garment and skin were measured. As a result, most of respondents have all season clothing products such as underwear, hosiery, and jogging suit for loungewear. Also, thermo regulator y functional clothes are frequently used as underwear and sweat shirt. The consumer awareness investigation on thermo regulatory functional clothing showed that the most important key buying factor is quick climate temperature response, easy maintenance, design and cost, in that order. Surface temperature of garment went down with the cooling down of environmental temperature. The lower environmental temperature, the greater temperature difference by body part showed. Skin temperature change by environmental temperature showed similar tendency of garment surface temperature. In comparison between garment surface and body skin, temperature difference became larger under the lower environmental temperature.