• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.216-224
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• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.626-632
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• 2010

The results of the image evaluations by various shapes of skirts which are typical female's lower garment were as follows; 1. The composition factors of images by the shapes of skirts were classified into five factors. The 1st factor is lovely image factor, the 2nd is attractive image factor, the 3rd is practical image factor, the 4th is slim-looking image factor and the 5th is long-looking image factor. 2. In the 1st factor- lovely image factor, tiered skirt, $360^{\circ}$ flared skirt and $180^{\circ}$ flared skirt were evaluated to express lovely images. In the 2nd factor- attractive image factor, $180^{\circ}$ flared skirt was evaluated to express refine and attractive images. In the 3rd factor- practical image factor, $360^{\circ}$ flared skirt and gathered skirt were evaluated to express easy and practical images. In the 4th factor- slim looking image factor, males evaluated 8gored skirt and females evaluated gathered skirt to express fat images. In the 5th factor- long looking image, $180^{\circ}$ flared skirt was evaluated to express long looking images by both sexes. 3. In the lovely image factor, gathered skirt was evaluated most differently between the sexes. Both in the attractive and practical image factor, tiered skirt was evaluated most differently between the sexes. 4. In the preference of male and female university students according to the shapes of skirts, both the sexes prefered flared skirt. But the low prefered shapes of skirts were differently evaluated between the sexes; the male students' was A-lined skirt and the female's was pleated skirt and wrap skirt.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.22-31
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• 2014

This study investigated the physical properties of warm up yarns and their knitted fabrics including the dye affinity and color fastness to washing of these knitted fabrics according to the various dyeing times and temperatures on dyeing process. The results were summarized as follows. The tenacity of Nylon/PP warm-up yarn was 4g/d and breaking strain was 4.5%. The wet and dry thermal shrinkages were higher than those of PET warm-up yarn. The maximum heat flow rate(Qmax) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was lower than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric and heat keeping rate(a) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was higher as 47% than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric. It was shown that the shape retention and wearing comfort of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric were better than those of PET warm-up knitted fabric. The dye-affinity(K/S) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the dyeing condition of 40minute or 50minute dyeing time with $80^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature, but PET warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the 30minute or 40minute with $110^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature. Finally, the color fastness to washing of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed good value as between 4 and 5 grade.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.43-49
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• 1999

This study conducted 4 different kinds of underwear materials, which were A (Cotton 100%), B (Wool 100%), C (Cotton/Wool, 50/50%) and D (Acrylic/Cotton, 50/50%) and were done in a climate chamber under cold ambient $10{\pm}1^{\circ}C$, $40{\pm}5%RH$ by 6 male subjects who were in good health. Physiological parameters such as rectal and local skin temperature(forehead, forearm, hand, trunk, thigh, leg, foot, back and chest), heart rate, body weight loss, clothing microclimate, blood lactic acid concentration, and wearing sensation were measured. Started with a 15-min rest period, 15-min of exercise 1 (the condition of 4.5 mile/hr walking speed equivalent to with 8.5 Kcal energy consumption on the treadmill) period, 15-min rest period, exercise 2 (after 3minutes warming-up at 3.0. 3.7, 4.5. 5.2. 6.0, 6.7 mile/hr) until exhaustion period, and final 15-min of recovery period were performed. The results were as follows: The lowest mean skin temperature was acrylic/cotton in order of wool > cotton/wool > cotton > acrylic/cotton (F=13. 79. p<0.00l). Most of all skin temperature by parts of body had turned out in sequence of temperature wool > cotton/wool > acrylic/cotton > cotton. Fore arm part showed highest temperature about $32.43^{\circ}C$ on wool and had a tendency approximately $1.8^{\circ}C$ higher than cotton which had the lowest temperature, and had the biggest difference among garments in terms of skin temperature. The back temperature within clothing showed about $2^{\circ}C$ higher than the chest temperature within clothing. but the back humidity within clothing showed about 4~12% higher than the chest humidity within clothing. Body weight loss by each garment was this sequence; cotton > acrylic/cotton > wool > cotton/wool.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.75-82
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• 2014

This study investigated the physical properties of aramid/nylon ATY and aramid ATY for protective garments according to the aramid and nylon characteristics fed on the core and effect components of air jet texturing equipment. Tenacity decrease of aramid ATY was much more higher than that of nylon ATY because of slick of aramid filament surface. Tenacity of aramid/nylon ATY was most affected by the tenacity of nylon on the effect component of ATY. Breaking strain of nylon ATY was two times higher than that of nylon before air jet texturing, then, in case of aramid ATY and aramid/nylon ATY, were 5.9-6.7 times higher than those before air jet texturing. Initial modulus decrease of aramid ATY showed 86.5% of initial modulus of aramid before air jet texturing, then aramid/nylon hibrid ATY showed arithmetic average value of initial modulus of aramid and nylon ATY. Wet and dry thermal shrinkages of aramid/nylon hybrid ATY were dominated by those of nylon filament on the effect component of ATY.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.1037-1045
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• 2001

This research is done to design and manufacture prototype clean room garments to improve the product yield of the clean room processing. To assist the research, other papers and references on the same subject were collected for analysis. Also the researcher made interviews with the workers at the clean room. The prototype garments made for this project was compared against the commercially available clean room garments used in the industry. A set of test was conducted to measure particle release from the garments. The prototype clean room garments was manufactured after having considered all the aspects stated above, and tested for the level of particle release. The test subjects performed 4 different movements(marching, arms stretch, squat and rise, and jogging) while wearing the prototype garments and commercially available clean room garments. Particle counts produced by each movement were measured. The data collected was statistically analyzed. The followings are the result of the test. 1) Overall, the prototype garments yielded less particle release.(p<0.001) 2) It showed greatest difference of particle counts for jogging(p<0.001) and squat and rise(p<0.001). In the arms stretch test. the prototype garments was also more effective in controling the particle, however, in the marching test. no significant difference was detected. 3) The prototype garments had less particle release in upper(p<0.001), middle(p< 0.001), and lower level(p<0.01) than the commercially available clean room garments. Manufacturing a new fabric for the clean room processing is important, but this research proves that the design of the clean room garments also determines the efficiency garments in the particle control. Therefore the same fabric can perform differently according to how it is designed. Improving the design will also improve the 7article control and reduce the cost of research. Eventually, the manufacturers will increase the product yield.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.116-135
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• 2008

To investigate the actual distribution condition and clothing construction factors of the working clothes supplied to the Changwon national industrial complex, 5 major companies in machinery, automotive, industrial engineering, shipbuilding and rolling stock in the industrial complex located in Gyeongsangnam-Do were selected. The questionnaire designed for the research consisted of working clothes distribution policies in manufacturing industry and the actual conditions of the design facts, repair and maintenance of the working clothes, etc. The analysis of the clothing construction factors of the working clothes provided by 5 respondent companies were conducted in parallel. The results derived from the study were as follows: The basic types of working clothes were the blouson jacket and straight pants; safety equipments for manufacture were safety helmets, gloves, snickers, goggles, masks, ear caps, wristlets, leggings, apron, etc. The size-charts adopted by the participant companies were the small-medium-large and cm/inch measurement size systems. To solve wearer's dissatisfaction with the garment fit, certain clothing construction factors were used, e.g. strap bands and the elastic band on a waist band. The types of fabrics used for the working clothes were mainly polyester/cotton and polyester/rayon blended ones. Moreover, to provide with more air permeability to wearers, the warp knit material was used to construct the lining and the armpit or back bodice slits. Lock, two-thread chain, safety, overedge stitches were applied with flat, lap felled, French, superimposed, lapped, bound and edge finishing seams to construct the working clothes selected.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2019

WKSF (Warp-knitted spacer fabrics) knitted using a double Raschel machine is the three-dimensional knit that has vertically connected separate layers in loop structures. Because of its unique structure, the fabric is light, compressible and breathable. Owing to the high production speed, the use of the fabric is increasing in various areas. The purpose of this study is to establish the design process in the utilization of WKSF program and analyze the difference between WKSF and Neoprene as garment materials.. The study on the design related to WKSF has rarely been carried out because of the complexity of WKSF structure and the difficulties encountered in analyzing the structure and thread. Therefore, checking beforehand the simulation results similar to a final knit using the CAD program for WKSF can only enhance the efficiency of the design for the light knits. The conclusion drawn after designing the light knits using the CAD program and analyzing the pros and cons of WKSF through the various property evaluation techniques is as follows. The tension characteristic analysis results indicated that Neoprene specimen has the elastic transformation and resilience, thus behaving like an elastic product such as rubber. By contrast, in the event that clothing and fashion accessories are designed with WKSF, these products are kept in a boxy style fit so that the fabric can be applied flexibly to a curvy body line. In addition, WKSF is good in forming noticeably around a curvy body, because its resistance shear deformation is lower than that of Neoprene.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.422-436
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• 2021

The fashion industry analyzes the value of its essence with ecological design and is expressed as an innovative sculpture using digital technology. Accordingly, this study explores ecological images and digital technologies, categorizes types and derives their meanings through analysis of ecological images shown in modern digital fashion. A literature survey was conducted on ecological images and digital technology as a theoretical background. To analyze the expression type and internal meanings of ecological images, designs with ecological formability were selected and analyzed from related journals, books, and internet sites. The finding are as follows: The expression type was first identified as organic curved garment silhouettes of a non-material liquid with digital retouching. Second, ecological fashion design includes structural shape that applies the silhouette of an organism and patterning of the ecosystem. Third, ecosystems consist of interactions between components of an ecosystem that appear in the interactive type. Accordingly, the internal meanings of ecological images in modern digital fashion are: first, digital fashion can encircle the inherent concepts of nature as organic collections of individuals; second, digital ecological images emphasize a sense of community with coexistence and harmony, playing a complementary role; and finally, the images express perceptual features by providing people with transcendent experiences. This study is significant as it analyzes new formative features based on ecological systems in the digital fashion environment, establishes an aesthetic system through internal meanings, and enhances awareness of human-natural relationships.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.49-61
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• 2022

This study aims to provide upper body shape information by analyzing the measurement data of middle-aged women aged 50-69, including baby boomers, whose economic power and activity have improved compared to the previous generations. In order to provide accurate upper body shape information by analyzing the body type using the 8th Size Korea measurement data, body shapes were classified through factor and cluster analysis using 75 direct measurement items. Upper body type was classified according to the factors, and the associated characteristics were analyzed. As a result of the comparative analysis of the upper body measurements from the 4th to the 8th Size Korea measurement, it was found that in the height item, both the waist height and the hip height increased, making the overall height greater and the leg length longer. The body circumference items tended to increase, but were found to decrease significantly in the 8th Size Korea (2021) measurement. Middle-aged women were classified using five factors. Factor 1 was the upper body obesity factor, and Factor 2 was the trunk vertical factor. Factor 3 was the width of the back shoulder, Factor 4 was the vertical factor behind the back, and Factor 5 was the length factor of the front garment composition. Middle-aged women were classified into four body types through cluster analysis. Type 1 is relatively small and skinny, Type 2 has the most obese upper body and developed back shoulders, and Type 3 is skinny and has a long back and short front. In Type 4, the upper body was relatively long and the shoulders were narrow.