• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제15권3호
• /
• pp.437-443
• /
• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid air jet textured filaments for protective garments relative to ATY nozzle diameters. Three types of para-aramids(840d, 1,000d, 1,500d) and nylon(420d) filaments were prepared; in addition, 840d aramid/420d nylon and three kinds of aramid filaments were texturized with a variation of air jet nozzle diameters(0.6, 0.75, 1 and 1.2 mm) on the AIKI air jet texturing machine. The measured physical properties of 16 specimens are as follows. The linear densities of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY increased with a larger nozzle diameter. The tenacity and initial modulus of aramid and hybrid ATY linearly decreased with a larger nozzle diameter; in addition, the breaking strain increased with the nozzle diameter. The dry and wet thermal shrinkage of hybrid ATY increased with a larger nozzle diameter from 0.6 mm to 1 mm and then decreased at a nozzle diameter of 1.2 mm (which seems to be a critical diameter). The wet and dry thermal shrinkage of aramid/nylon hybrid ATY are influenced by the nylon part of the hybrid yarns because the wet and dry thermal shrinkages of aramid ATY are less than 0.2%. The instabilities of aramid and aramid/nylon hybrid ATY were not influenced by the air jet nozzle diameter; however, they increased with the linear density of ATY.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제23권2호
• /
• pp.247-260
• /
• 2021

While it is an important element of clothing construction, research has so far been very limited on the similarities between virtual and real clothing in terms of the type of neckline. The purpose of this study is to verify the similarity, accuracy of virtualization, and actuality of neckline, which all play an important role in individual impressions and image formation, and require considerable modification when fitting real samples. A total of 5 neckline models were selected through the analysis of dress composition textbooks. The selected designs were then planned and manufactured in muslin. The specimen clothes were then tested on a female model in her 20s. 2 kinds of virtual bodies were created in order to compare the real and the virtual dressing. The first virtual body was made through an Artec 3D Eva scan of the model, and the other was made by entering the model's measurements in a CLO 3D program. A visual image of the front, side, and back image of both the real and virtual dressing were subsequently collected. The collected images were then evaluated by 20 professional fashion workers who checked the similarity between the real and the virtual versions. The current study found that the similarity between the actual and virtual wearing of the five neckline designs with reality appeared higher with the virtual wearing image using the 3D-scanned body. The results of this study could provide further information on the selection of appropriate avatars to clothing companies that check the fit of clothing by utilizing 3D virtualized programs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제24권2호
• /
• pp.249-259
• /
• 2022

To analyze recent changes in designer-specific garment composition, detail, and design elements of jackets, we classified jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S to 2019 F/W according to their designers and examined their characteristics. Our analysis of the jackets by Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Valentino shows that the hour-glass silhouette was most common in Armani, Chanel, Dior, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino jackets; Chanel used more straight silhouettes compared to other designers. Most jackets, regardless of the designer, had midlength waist-to-bottom, tight sleeves fitted to the body, natural shoulder shape, and solid color. Moreover, woven fabric was the most common material. Jackets with no collar were the most common for Armani, tailored collars for Dior and Jean-Paul Gaultier, and standing collars for Chanel and Valentino. For the closure method, Armani used hook-and-eye, Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Valentino used button closures, and Dior used snap closures the most. New design attempts by designers are bringing details and design elements together. In an era characterized by an abundance of designs and frequent replacement of each brand's creative designers, it is important to create and maintain a brand's unique design identity and philosophy that can meet consumers' elevated standards, which tend to be biased towards new and stimulating designs due to the development of the IT industry.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제18권1호
• /
• pp.49-58
• /
• 2015

본 연구는 감성의류용 탄화지르코늄 함유 축열 니트의 원적외선 특성을 연구하였다. 탄화지르코늄 함유 축열 PET 원사가 이성분 방사법에 의해 방사되었다. 이 원사의 core부에는 고점도 PET와 탄화지르코늄을 혼합한 용액을, sheath부에는 저점도 PET 용액을 사용하여 콘쥬게이트 방사를 실시하였다. 이들 방사된 원사의 원소분석과 원적외선 특성 분석이 EDS와 FT-IR 계측기기에 의해 분석되었으며 두 가지 조직의 니트 소재를 편직하여 이들의 열적특성을 분석하였다. EDS 분석에서 Zr 피크를 확인하였으며 원사내에 Zr 원소가 19.29% 함유되어 있음을 확인하였다. 또한 원적외선 분석에서 $5{\sim}20{\mu}m$ 파장 영역에서 원적외선 방사에너지가 $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, 방사율이 0.906 임을 확인하였다. KES-F7 측정기 분석에서 ZrC 함유 편성물의 Qmax 값이 일반 PET 편성물의 값보다 낮은 값을 보였고 보온율 값은 ZrC 함유 편성물이 일반 PET보다 더 높은 값을 보이므로서 ZrC의 축열성을 확인하였다. 열전도도는 Zr의 높은 열전도도 때문에 일반 PET 편물보다 더 높은 값을 보였다. ZrC의 함유가 편물의 촉감에 미치는 영향을 없었으며 편성 조직이 더 큰 영향을 주는 것을 확인하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제1권4호
• /
• pp.376-386
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study was to determine the physiological responses and the Subjective sensations of the human subjects when 10 human subjects(5 males and 5 females) were tested with selected ensembles, including the uniforms of students, industrial and bank workers. For the study, garment material and design were selected, which was mostly used in Taegu area by the survey. Thermal manikin and the human subject tests were performed. The results were as follows: 1. There was no significant difference among skin temperature of head by season and among that of breast and back by all variables, however, there was a significant difference among that of belly by gender and that of thigh and shank by season. In addition, there was no significant difference among rectal temperature by gender and season, but there was a significant difference by uniform. 2. Mean skin temperature of male subjects was significantly higher than that of female subjects. Specially in lower environmental condition, the difference got larger. 3. There was a significant difference among purse rate of subjects by uniform, but there was no significant difference among those by gender and season. There were no significant difference among maximum and minimum blood pressure by gender, uniform, and season. 4. There was a significant difference in temperature of chest among gender and uniform, and there was no significant difference in temperature of back by season. In addition, There was a significant difference in humidity of back by uniform and season but there were no significant difference in that by gender. 5. There was a significant difference in humidity sensation by gender, comfort sensation by uniform and season, but there was no significant difference thermal sensation by uniform and season. 6. For the result of regression analysis, we got the regression equations as follows: Clo=1.810 Thickness+0.525, Clo=0.475 weight+0.863.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제14권1호
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 2011

이 연구는 감성의류용 형상기억 메모리직물의 제조 방법과 물성을 조사하기 위해 저온열처리와 정장열처리 가연법을 폴리프로필렌 POY와 SDY에 각각 적용하고 이들 사를 사용하여 PP형상기억메모리 직물을 air-jet직기에서 제조하였다. 물성비교를 위해서 PET와 PTT형상기억메모리 직물도 같이 제직하여 4가지 형상기억 메모리 직물시료를 만들고 이들의 여러 가지 물성을 측정 비료분석하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. PP형상기억 메모리 직물에 사용하기 위해 저온가연법과 정장열처리법에 의해 만든 PP가연사의 물성은 절단강 신도가제직성에 문제가 없는 값을 가졌으며 특히 열수축율이 습열은 1.5% 이하 건열은 3~5% 범위를 가짐으로써 PTT의 5~8%의 높은 열수축율에 비해 열적 안정성을 가졌다. PP형상기억 메모리 소재의 변형된 형태를 유지하는 소성적 성능 특성 평가법인 Toray 방추성 평가는 PP소재가 PTT와 같은 5급을 나타냄으로써 우수한 변형 유지특성을 보였다. 또한 PP형상기억 메모리소재의 보온성은 PTT소재보다 약 56% 향상된 결과를 보였으며 스프레이법에 의한 발수성은 PTT소재에 발수처리한 소재와 동일하게 5급의 우수한 발수성을 보였다. 그리고 PP형상기억 메모리소재의 형상기억 특성을 평가 할 목적으로 3D 이미지 방법과 카메라 측정결과 PTT소재와 비슷한 형상기억 특성을 보임을 확인 할 수 있었다.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제15권1호
• /
• pp.141-148
• /
• 2012

본 연구에서는 생체모방기술을 응용하여 감성의류용 구조발색사를 방사하고, 이를 사용하여 직물을 제직 감량 가공하여 이들의 발색성 및 촉감 물성을 측정하여 감성의류용 용도의 적용성을 확인하여 다음과 같은 연구결과를 얻었다. 삼각단면을 가진 37층의 폴리에스테르와 나일론을 교호로 적층한 구조발색사의 방사조건을 확립하였으며, 이 세 가지 사의 발색성을 multi angle spectro-photometer로 확인하였다. 그리고 이 사들로 제직한 구조발색 직물 세 가지의 겉보기 색차와 반사율을 분석한 결과, 700nm에서 400nm까지의 파장에서 발색성을 확인하였다. 또한, 직물의 밀도와 조직이 다른 세 가지 구조발색 직물을 제직하고 감량 가공 처리하여 직물 역학특성치에서 촉감을 측정한 결과, $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리한 시료가 최적설계(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) 및 감량 조건임을 확인할 수 있었다. 그리고 감량 처리 시 온도와 처리시간 증가에 따라 감량률이 13%에서 최대 23%까지 증가함을 확인할 수 있었다. 이때 직물의 신축특성, 굽힘강성 및 전단강성은 감소하며 압축특성은 증가하는 현상을 보였다. 그리고 최적설계조건인 1번 직물시료를 $100^{\circ}C$, 60분 감량 처리할 때 촉감이 가장 우수하며 일본 몰포 직물보다 더 우수한 촉감치를 얻었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제19권2호
• /
• pp.221-229
• /
• 2017

This study researched the needs of smart fashion items using energy harvesting for outdoor wearers and surveyed the application areas and design preferences for energy-harvesting systems based on outdoor activities. A total of 217 subjects were surveyed. Subjects who had at least 3 years of experience in outdoor activities were selected in order to increase the reliability of the research results. The survey investigated lifestyles based on outdoor activities, outdoor clothing and electronic equipment usage, purchase style, utilization plan, and design preference for energy-harvesting clothing and supplies. The results showed that 62.7% of the respondents had experience in outdoor activities for more than five years. 96.3% of the subjects carried electronic equipment, and 179 participants(82.5%) experienced discomfort due to battery consumption/dead batteries during outdoor activities. 78.4% were interested in smat fashion items using energy-harvesting technology, and the energy-conversion technology that was useful for outdoor activities was "kinetic energy"(74.7%). Participants showed a high preference for a detachable type(30.9%) and a city type(69.1%) that can be worn in outdoor activities as well as in general life. The preferred location of the electric power-charging device was the "Hem area of top garment"(35.9%), and the reason for this selection was that it was easy to operate and did not interfere with movement. The data from this paper can be used as a basis for product planning and product design for energy-harvesting apparel designers and supply developers for outdoor clothing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제19권6호
• /
• pp.768-776
• /
• 2017

This study analyzed the relationships among actual body types, perceived body types, body-image discrepancy(difference between perceived and ideal body), and body satisfaction, and their effects on jacket fit satisfaction at 17 body parts of women in their 20s. To apprehend the actual body type of subjects, total 18 items were measured according to the anthropometric method of the 6th anthropometric survey project. The relationship between body-image discrepancy and body satisfaction was correlated in all body parts. Body-image discrepancy and body satisfaction were more affected by perceived body size than actual body size. The fit satisfaction level of the jacket was found to be lower as the discrepancy between the body type and the ideal body type was recognized. As the waist girth, hip girth, armscye girth, and upper arm girth were smaller, the height was taller, bust girth and breast size were larger, these body sizes were considered as closer to the ideal body shape and the jacket fit of the area was more satisfied. When the perceived body sizes and the actual body sizes were compared, the women in their 20s tended to perceive their waist, abdomen, and hip as larger, their shoulder length and front/back interscye as longer, their breast size as smaller, and their waist height as lower than the actual size.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제17권4호
• /
• pp.613-625
• /
• 2015

This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts $\times$ KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.