• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.74-81
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to review the relationship between modern homosexuals' costume tendency in socio-cultural terms and the garment tendency reflected as high fashion and thereby, determine the homosexualism being established as a recent fashion trend. The homosexualism shown in the fashion were categorized into three aspects; a resistant tendency departing from the conventional controlling culture, a fetishism or perversion tendency satisfying in sexual inclination by emphasizing certain physical parts or using certain items, and play to express a sexual identity departing from the fixed social view. The homosexualism being suggested as new fashion trend in this society dominated by the post-modernism art must mean an integrated sense of sex just beyond a simple perversion to express the self-identity in a natural way. It is conceived that the homosexualism would be expanded towards a new horizon of costumes as long as the division of sexes becomes more obscure and the decentralized bipolarization for mutual co-existence between two sexes continues to be main stream of fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.10 no.6
• /
• pp.709-717
• /
• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• The Journal of Asian Finance, Economics and Business
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.873-884
• /
• 2021

People are often motivated by money. The salary a worker is paid by his employer can have a great influence on his performance in the administration. The study aims to identify and measure the impact of collective bargaining on the income of employees in enterprises. Participants were given a questionnaire consisting of 21 observation variables with a 5-point Likert scale. Independent variables were measured from 1 "without effect" to 5 "strongly". Based on the literature review and results of interviews, a total of 285 questionnaires were sent to participants in 95 enterprises in three typical fields: industry, construction, textile, and garment; 255 of them met the standards and were subject to be analyzed. We use qualitative research methods combined with quantitative research methods. SPSS20 software is used to synthesize and analyze data. The results of Cronbach's alpha, Exploratory Factor Analysis (EFA) and Multiple Regression Analysis (MRA) identify, the objective for collective bargaining (MT), time to organize collective bargaining (TD), the competence of the parties of the collective bargaining (NL), collective bargaining organization process (QT) are positively correlated with the income of workers in enterprises; information provided for collective bargaining (TT) has a negative correlation with the income of employees in enterprises. Based on the findings, some suggestions have been given for collective bargaining to increase the income of employees in enterprises in Vietnam.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.6
• /
• pp.744-751
• /
• 2018

This study aimed to provide the information on the thermal sensation and the amount of clothing worn of junior high school students in winter classroom the relation with their climate adaptability. Total usable questionnaires were obtained from 467 male and female students. The questionnaire included general characteristics, physical characteristics, self awareness of body shape, climate adaptability and subjective thermal sensation in winter classroom. The data were analyzed using SPSS Statistics 18.0 for frequency analysis, factor analysis, chi-square analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The results were as follows. The average body type based on BMI was normal($20.1kg/m^2$ ). Females perceived their body type as thinner than males. They wore more (8.67 garment items compared to 8.14 for males). Only about 25% of students voted the thermal sensation to neutral(47% cool~very cold, 28% warm~very hot). Females were more sensitive to the cold, perceived less healthy, and wore more garments in the cold. Students felt colder in winter classroom when their cold adaptability was lower and they actively adjusted thermal insulation against the cold. It is recommended to suggest the guidelines for the proper indoor temperature and for the wear behavior in classroom in the perspectives of increasing the learning efficiency and improving the students' climate adaptability.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.24 no.6
• /
• pp.135-147
• /
• 2020

This study explored students' online fashion studio class experiences, and investigated the factors affecting their class satisfaction. An online survey of college students who were enrolled in online studio classes within apparel and fashion-related departments during the spring of 2020 was conducted in June 2020. Responses from a total of 213 participants were included in the final data. Respondents rated lecture clips as the most useful, followed by teacher demonstration and feedback, PowerPoint (PPT) supplements, and Q&As. Frequently mentioned areas of improvement were online platform stability and video quality. Many respondents also stated that more streamlined teacher-student communication channels, immediate and meticulous teacher feedback, the adoption of course contents developed specifically for an online environment, and provisions for equipment usage would be desirable. Student satisfaction of an online fashion design studio class was significantly affected by teaching presence, social presence, online learning system stability, perceived usefulness of teacher's demonstration, and affective response toward COVID-19. Students satisfaction of an online garment construction studio class was significantly affected by teaching and social presence, online learning system stability, and perceived usefulness of teacher's demonstration. Based on these findings, we recommend developing teaching contents and methods that allow students to feel included in class and establish an online system with various functions to enhance the sense of social connection that can enable two-way communication.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.45 no.1
• /
• pp.17-27
• /
• 2021

The pursuit of a healthier life has created life style changes through exercise; in addition, an athleisure look as well as a combination of everyday clothes and sportswear has rapidly spread through sharing based on image-based SNS. Fashion related images shown in an image-based SNS are considered important resources for grasping micro-needs with regard to the sensibility of consumers. Therefore, this study analyzes the design characteristics of an athleisure look shown in image-based SNS. In order to analyze the athleisure look, images of the entire garment were collected and classified to enable content analysis methods that analyzed the design characteristics of each type. As a result, types were classified as sporty-athleisure, modern-athleisure, high-end athleisure, retro-athleisure, and romantic-athleisure. Looking at the characteristics of the athleisure look, it was shown that the design characteristics of each type were well expressed through differences in the direction, material, and details by matching between the items used. This study can be used in design development processes by deriving the characteristics of athleisure looks through an analysis of fashion images that appear in image-based SNS.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.29 no.6
• /
• pp.810-827
• /
• 2021

Indonesian women have emerged as global consumers, and various studies are needed to expand the global fashion market targeting their needs. In this study, a survey was conducted to determine the fashion design preferences of Indonesian Muslim women according to demographic characteristics and religious variables. In this study, Indonesian women aged from their teens to their 40s were surveyed by questionnaire during June 2020. This yielded 301 survey responses, which were analyzed using χ²-test, t-test, ANOVA, and Duncan's multiple range test using SPSS23. The results of the study are as follows: Analysis of the demographic characteristics of Indonesian Muslim women and the degree of acceptance of fashion trends according to religious variables showed significant differences according to age, monthly income, and the extent to which they wore a hijab. Analysis of the demographic characteristics of the women and the degree of acceptance of the fitted garment according to religious variables showed significant differences depending on their age, whether they were married, their monthly income, religious faithfulness, the extent to which they wore a hijab, and the degree of acceptance of Islamic discipline. After examining the difference in Muslim women's preferred fashion images (according to demographic characteristics and religious variables), significant differences were identified according to their age, income, extent to which they wore a hijab, and the degree of Islamic discipline with regard to clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.230-239
• /
• 2017

In the clothes industry, there are lack of experts including technical designers who can analyze the fit of clothes. This study is to provide practical data available for fit analysis education by distinguishing the differences in standards and aspects of garment fit between experts and novices, through the eye-tracking technology to quantify the sense of fit. For this study, two groups were organized; one composed of 7 experts with over 15 year-experience including technical designers and patternmakers, and the other composed of 7 novices who are students majoring in clothing. Wearing the goggle type eye-tracker Tobii Pro Glasses 2, the participants in the experiments were required to conduct fit analyses for a pair of pants on a live model. After those experiments, they were required to check the items for fit analysis and assess the importance level of them on a questionnaire. The differences between the two groups in the ratios of total visit count and total visit duration by each AIO(Area of Interest) of clothes were analyzed through non-parametric statistical test. The results of eye tracking experiments showed that experts focused on center front and back line, crotch area, and side seam, while novice's fixation points were dispersed around the pants. The survey results showed that the experts put importance on the center line position and its verticality, front-back proportion of side seam line, and front-back proportion of waist line, 71.4~100% of whom checked them, while 14.3% of the novices checked them.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.128-136
• /
• 2014

The virtual try-on technologies of the current level have limitations with material expression as well as some difficulties with commercialization. There are differences in simulation results and subjective evaluations perceived by consumers according to the types and physical characteristics of materials used in virtual try-on simulations. This study were to analyze the exterior clothing shapes and visual images from 3D virtual try-on simulations with materials whose drapability was differentiated and then test the accuracy of the expression of the drapability of the materials. The study carried out 3D virtual try-on simulations by selecting flared skirts as an item to best express differences in drapability along with five materials of different physical properties and offered some basic data for greater utilization of virtual try-on simulations by comparing and analyzing them with the exterior shapes and visual images of actual flared skirts. The analysis results of hemline shapes between actual and virtual try-on according to the types of materials showed no match among the quantitative items of exterior shapes factors. There were no significant differences in the visual images except for "soft" according to the simulation methods, which means that the items can serve as part of a scale for visual image comparison. It is necessary to reflect quantitative numbers regarding "drapability" proposed in the study simulation software and to continue to build a systematic database for virtual simulations by investigating and testing various materials.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.344-352
• /
• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.