• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.76-89
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• 2009

Popular music unites people who have different genders, ages, locals, and values. Through the popular music, youth interchange their emotion and create their fashion. Fashion and music formed the twin pillars on which the first historically significant youth sub-culture was built. Glam rock and Punk rock which won popularity in the 1970s influenced the fashion of the times. The purpose of this study is to compare Glam and Punk make-up which appeared as a symbol of the rebel against an older generation. The methodology utilized in this study was the analysis of materials from the survey through the literature, internet sites, and visual references. The results of this study are as follows: In face make-up, Glam used a white base to appear cosmic; on the other hand, Punk used a white base to appear pale and horrid. In eye make-up, Glam used black, pink, and blue eye shadow, and accented the eye by using black eye lines. Punk used black eye shadow, and drew black circles or squares around eyes. In lip make-up, Glam used pink, purple, red, and black lip color and silver and pink lip gloss to glitter. Punk used red and black lip color to appear horrid. In body make-up, Glam used glitter powder to appear with a bright skin. Punk drew tattoos and horror patterns in their body. The common themes of Glam and Punk make-up were rebellion, androgyny, and the beauty of ugliness as well as a self-created persona.

• Steel and Composite Structures
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.199-213
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• 2020

This paper proposes a Global-Local Analysis Method (GLAM) to assess the progressive collapse of steel framed structures under fire-induced column failure. GLAM obtains the overall structural response by combining dynamic analysis of the heated column (local) with static analysis of the overall structure (global). Test results of two steel frames which explicitly consider the dynamic effect during fire-induced column failure were employed to validate the proposed GLAM. Results show that GLAM gives reasonable predictions to the test frames in terms of both whether to collapse and the displacement verse temperature curves. Besides, several case studies of a two-dimensional (2D) steel frame and a three-dimensional (3D) steel frame with concrete slabs were conducted by using GLAM. Results show that GLAM gives the same collapse predictions to the studied cases with nonlinear dynamic analysis of the whole structure model. Compared with nonlinear dynamic analysis of the whole structure model, GLAM saves approximately 70% and 99% CPU time for the cases of 2D and 3D steel frame, respectively. Results also show that the load level of a structure has notable effects on the restraint condition of a heated column in the structure.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.781-795
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is not only to widen and deepen the understanding of external environments of hairstyle but also to provide the basis of understanding and perspicacity as to the hairstyle which will be created under the influence of new music by contemplating distinctions between Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s and by comparing and analyzing distinctions between Glam Hairstyle and Punk Hair Style of 1970s. As the method of this study, first of all four common factors, which are resistance, androgynous, beauty of ugliness and pursuit of pleasure through persona, were able to be ed from both Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s, and then by using that factors as analyzing instrumental frame, the above two hairstyles were compared and analyzed through photographic materials in this study. According to the results of comparing and analyzing two hairstyles above, in Glam Hairstyle, the androgynous character is the most remarkable distinction. They tried to overturn the gender role by challenging the traditional color and form of hairstyle. In funk Hairstyle, the resistance is the most prominent distinction. They expressed their group identity resisting a pre-existing generation by putting on threatened and aggressive hairstyle.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1156-1168
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• 2008

This study investigated the preceding studies and concept of Glam Rock style, modernistically reinterpreted its aesthetic function and symbolism and connected them to design. It analyzed according to the standards for classification the Glam Rock style appearing mainly in the collections from 2002 S/S to 2007 S/S and presented four pieces of design through the analysis. Its findings are synthesized as follows. First, unstructured design constitutes mule stressing gold cubic overall. It takes an unstable form by the placement of unshapely front ball of foot from transforming Chopin and a relatively poor heel. Second, over trimming constitutes separated pumps in the form of over trimming irregularly a piece of broken glass, metal and thumb tack. Third, Mix & Match combines Boot body of flexible knit material with an acrylic wedge sandal. Fourth, a platform sandal has the structure of color contrast between yellow and bronze in calf fur of tiger-skin pattern. I hope that this study will be developed by reflecting Glam Rock spirit and style as cultural phenomena through analyzing Glam Rock style and presenting design according to selected standards for classification, inferring plastic beauty of fashion shoes from them, investigating the change and feature of age-specific shoe design and making a new attempt possible.

• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.37-51
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to devise a wide range of expression and direction in fashion by analyzing the wardrobe of David Bowie, a musician who represents Glam Rock, for "glam" characteristics. Research was done using dictionaries of musical terms, dictionaries of attire terms, internet, papers and books published in Korea and abroad and other materials. The results of this study showed four characteristics, and it can be summarized as follows. First, resistance refers to the deviation from the norms set by a mainstream society. The resistance in Glam Rock was expressed in depreciative and anti-social characteristics, and Punk elements were expressed by using studs and metallic materials. Second, androgyny in David Bowie's costume expresses the innate nature of gender by freely integrating or tight silhouette costumes. Third, the fantasy in Bowie's costumes is a concept as opposed to what is real and is expressed by using avant-garde and playful expressions. Distorted, exaggerated and avant- garde expressions express decorative and bizarre fantasy by using the images of an astronaut. Fourth, the folklore in David Bowie's costumes uses the patterns and images of different cultures, and is expressed as through integration of exotic components, including the usage of costumes with Oriental colors and shapes. Furthermore it represents geometric shapes and curves, using the images of Kimono.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the relations between Pop Art and pop music, which formed a serious coupling loop in an identical cultural background. Also this study intends to set up a position of visualized sexual identity as it Points out the conceptional characteristics of glam, a subculture outside mainstream, which includes the matters of sexual minorities such as homosexuality and bisexuality under the influence of the aesthetic and philosophical composition by Andy Warhol. In conjunction herewith, we explore the visual representation of glam style focusing on the influence of Warhol. The classification and explanation about the visual representation of glam style under the influence of Warhol are practised by distinguishing as denotative representation and connotative representation. For the denotative representation shown in the glum style, first, the discordant images were put together by bricolage, then adapted into the new dramatic symbol of youth. Second, through a visually androgynous style a subversion of sex for symbols of sexuality and gender was represented. Third, the factitiveness as a weird display and fallacy is shown from boisterous make-up and unisex sかling in theatricality and put-ons, featuring artificiality, assemblage and unnaturality. And the connaotative representation shown in glum inglam style, first, glam style implies its experimental nature which attempts to break down boundaries between masculinity and femininity, homosexuality and heterosex-uality. Second, the bricolage in sequin and other discordant elements have connotative meanings as sensuality and excessiveness. Third, mixing various style as sexual play shows ironic visual images, in accordance with Superior Theory and Discord Theory.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.857-871
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• 2010

As the selective role model for the public and the creators of fashion style, the characters of homme fatale image presented in the Korean 'trendy' teleplays have significant influence on the audience. In this study, the concept of homme fatale, is defined, and the inherent meaning of this recent coinage(homme fatale) and the characteristics of the image are discussed. And then, the fashion styles classified into homme fatale image are exhaustively analyzed to find out the recent trends of men's fashion which represent the new masculine image and its meaning. According to the result of this analysis, the fashion styles of homme fatale image, which expresses the new image reflecting the traits of contemporary men, can be subdivided into traditional classic style, modern dandy style, easy casual style, and glam sexy style. Traditional classic style represents perfect masculine image with its dignity and formality, while modern dandy style expresses the modern, urban, elegant, and refined images. Easy casual style emphasizes the active and liberal image of men, and the glam sexy style tries to stress the sexual attractiveness of men. These fashion styles are important elements which express not only the characteristics, the social status, the jobs but also the psychology of the characters, and they present the various fashion styles expressing the masculine sexuality.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.353-364
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• 2016

This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.127-136
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• 2006

These researches discussed promotions and effectiveness in the area of star marketing production, copying, advertising, and expenditure on clothes. The thesis is refreshing in the way it deals with analysis of strategical changes in the fashion of entertainers asia cultural industry developed. I specially focused on comparing and analyzing the changes in style of Hip Hop fashion from the period of inferior culture to the period in which their fashion is highly respected. Also, I'd like to study the influence of the fashion to Korean Hip Hop artists. The Hip Hop musicians developed their styles from underdog images of Hip Hop to glamourous and luxurious styles along with modeling in various magazines appealing sexually. In Korea, Seven and Hyori Lee are showing new and changed styles that are different from the past to their fans. The Hip Hop style now is showing with unimaginably luxurious styles as opposed to its original image. With their pursuance of ostentatious and luxurious styles Hip Hop was reborn as new Glam style. Old Hip Hop styles such as ripped jeans, safety pins, graffiti, and loose and exaggerated silhouette give inspirations to many worldly known designers and their collection. Hip Hop that used to be a branch of a low culture was able to grow to the culture of luxuries via the development the media and improvement of lives and the level of consciousness of the middleclass. Music stars with luxurious Hip Hop fashion influenced coming of a new musical genre and Korean musicians largely. I hope this research can help developing the unique low-culture and creating new trend in the field of entertainers' fashion.