• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제18권1호
• /
• pp.157-166
• /
• 2009

This study was conducted to evaluate the differences in external appearances and functional qualities between the slacks which were patterned on existing designs and on a new design in order to improve on their level of comfort of ready-made clothes for abdominally fat women. Five abdominally fat women in their 60's were chosen as experimental participants. Twenty-four external evaluation items, and seven different actions involving six moving parts of the body were investigated with a 5-level scale in the repeated wearing test. The results were analyzed by statistical methods. The newly designed pattern in this study was definitely superior to the other two patterns(L-type and K-type) on the external appearance evaluation. The newly pattern removed a waist belt and a dart from the front part of the garment and gave surplus space around the waist. It prevented superfluous wrinkles at the abdominal region and thighs. The superfluous wrinkles at the side regions also disappeared due to the length (inseam) reduction from waist to crotch. The newly pattern made the center-line of the back side slightly sloped to the main pattern in order to remove the drooped line. The newly pattern showed the highest score in the functional test of several actions. It was due to the reduction of the length from waist to crotch as well as the belt width. It made waist-line movement better, and made it easier and more comfortable to sit down. The newly pattern also showed the highest score in the functional test classified by specific movements of parts of the body for the same purpose. The slacks which were made of elastic materials showed better results than the non-elastic ones on external appearances and functional test items. It showed that the elastic materials played a better role in the increase of functional action of abdominally fat, aged women. This study suggests that the newly designed slacks pattern could give abdominally fat, aged women better external features and a more comfortable fitting sensation. As well, the results were significant as basic data to produce ready-made and/or tailer-made garments.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.246-253
• /
• 2009

테크놀로지와 패션은 얼핏 보기에는 서로 거리가 멀어 보이나 사실은 그렇지 않다. 초기 착용형 장치는 기능성을 갖추었으나 입기에 불편하고 보기에도 좋지 않았다. 오늘날의 착용형 장치는 스타일을 가지고 있는 동시에 편안한 의류를 만들어냄으로써 패션계의 기대를 충족하고 있다. 착용형 장치의 개인화를 통해 패션 아이템을 대중에 어필하기 위한 본질적인 요소인 새로운 자기표현이 가능해졌다. 의류에 포함된 기술과 전자 섬유에 통합된 기능은 패셔너블 착용형 장치의 ‘착용성’과 편안함, 미학적 특성에 영향을 준다. 이러한 요소를 고려하는 것은 사용자 중심의 패셔너블 착용형 장치를 만드는데 중요한 디자인 프로세스이다. 디자이너는 목적과 사용자, 상호 교류, 상업적 가능성, 가격에 대한 포괄적인 이해를 가지고 있어야 한다. 직관적인 인터페이스를 갖춘 뛰어난 디자인을 통해 성공적인 패셔너블 착용형 장치를 만들 수 있다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제18권4호
• /
• pp.457-467
• /
• 2016

This study aimed to develop functional underwear for elderly women in their sixties in terms of good fit, wear comfort and body temperature regulation. To satisfy elderly women's physical and metabolical needs, an automatic temperature control system via PCM treatment was applied. Underwear pattern was produced by producing body surface replica, which was derived from 3D body parametric model. Differential ratios of outline length and area between 3D surface and 2D plane were 1.4% and 0.5%, respectively. The reduction rate was determined as 10% through the expert's evaluation. PCM treated fabric showed higher Q-max, meaning that it can facilitate the thermal transition in hot situation. Moreover, it also showed higher insulation to preserve heat and keep warm microclimate in a cold weather. Heat distribution measurements on various body parts revealed that the temperature after PCM treatment was significantly higher. The clothing pressure after 10% pattern reduction showed higher before reduction, at the same time, even lower than the comfort clothing pressure range of $5{\sim}10gf/cm^2$, implying that experimental garment of this research is acceptable in terms of clothing pressure. Evaluation results on the comfort to move in various motions proved that adequate clothing pressure improved the wear comfort in various motions.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제20권5호
• /
• pp.102-114
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to enable a scientific and rational approach for future research agenda setting in the clothing construction field. Through analysis of research papers on clothing construction published in domestic academic journals during the recent decade, the research trend of clothing construction in respective academic journals, research subjects, and research contents were grasped thoroughly. From all domestic academic associations' publication on garment/clothing and textiles/fashion, 7 academic journals were selected as subjects of research, in order to compare and analyze the research trend in the last ten years. The ten-year period ranged from April 2006 to March 2016, and a total of 735 papers published on clothing construction were used for analysis. The number of publications in the clothing construction area during the last decade has decreased, which is due to the increase in the number of clothing and textiles fashion-related academic journals, other than the 7 journals analyzed, and since the number of papers published in international academic journals has also increased. Body type, patterns, fitting test, and functional clothing accounted for the highest proportion of research themes in clothing construction. In terms of body type, there was an increasing tendency towards usage of 3D body measurement. In the patterns area, the 3D virtual dressing system was actively used. For functional clothing, sportswear, protective clothes, and innerwear were most widely researched, and ergonomic design together with smartwear was actively studied.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• 제15권1호
• /
• pp.51-74
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this exploratory research is to study Cashin's fashion philosophy and to draw her design characteristics through analysis of her work. As a result of this research, 76 garment pieces were selected from the 180 Bonnie Cashin collections at the University of Cincinnati to document and evaluate. The final selection includes: sixteen jackets, fifteen skirts, five pants, five tops, seven dresses, twenty five coats, and three capes. Bonnie Cashin specialized in practical and functional; yet innovative designs such as leather trimmed tweed Jackets/coats, canvas raincoats, suede leather coats, and ponchos. Her trademark elements include toggle closures, oversized pockets, her Noh coats, tweed suits, canvas raincoats, fringed suede dresses, funnel neck pullovers, jersey dresses, and ponchos. She emphasized function and comfort and she believed that a good design must also be practical. The examination of these 76 pieces from the University of Cincinnati's private Bonnie Cashin Collection brings to light Bonnie Cashin's creative design and what she represented in the development of American fashion design in the $20^{th}$ century.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제3권2호
• /
• pp.1-17
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to discover the source of the force that has continously pertained it through the years. Following the flow of the times, the Chanel Style has transformed and developed through the styles of the sporty look, the russian look, the gar onne look, the romantic look, and the classic look. Not only has Chanel created classic designs that transcend time, but she has created clothing that is very feminine and full of wit in the evening wear. She has also innovated the fields of textile, garment cutting, details, and accessories. The Chanel Style was expressed by simplicity, funtionality, sensuality, and amusement. Simplicity to Chanel was an important element that expresses both youth and casual characteristics and the use of jersy and the color black has resulted in a functional simplicity. For the active, new woman, not only a funtional beauty but also a subtle, moderate, and a unobtrusive sauve sensibility is expressed in the Chanel Style. Also pleasure can be observed in the costume jewelry that gives one enjoyment.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제41권1호
• /
• pp.60-70
• /
• 2017

This study selects representative materials and sewing methods used to: produce medical compression clothing in domestic garment, understand physical properties according to sewing conditions before and after knitting, and propose a sewing method that can improve the functional properties of the medical pressure clothing for burn patients. This experiment used samples from two knitted fabrics of high-frequency, produced and sold among fabrics used to produce medical compression clothing in Korea. Sewing methods were N321, N502 and N601, most commonly used in the press clothing industry. Fabric A is most often reduced in EMT values when sewing N502. However, N321 and N502 are suitable sewing methods for the reliable to twist at the larger torsional shear and the larger 2HG, 2HG5 value. Fabric B is sewn with N601, the EMT value is the most elevated, LT value is also low and extensibility improves after sewing. N601 is shown as an appropriate sewing method for warp knitting. When sewing with N321, the torsional is stable but elongation is lacking. N502 is not good for torsional stability.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제35권5호
• /
• pp.249-264
• /
• 1997

The purpose of this study was to provide the reference information for user and potential users of apparel CAD system is Korea. Two interviews were carried out for the study. The apparel CAD system of Assyst, Gerber and Yuka was selected for technical comparative study. The results were as follows: 1. The future development of the apparel CAD system is the transfer of the developed pattern design from a 3D design system and of CIM concept. 2. The share of data is working closely in a module function. So the Assyst system provide connectivity and communication between all apparel CAD system's module and other automation programs. This system is suitable for CIM production line. 3. The Gerber system is developed the Apparel CAD system which is given by the CAM system's technical ability. This system is given high insurance of ability to the service and data transportation with other systems from users in the Korea. 4. The Yuka system is developed pattern making by the Apparel CAD system. This system's different methods which is compared with other systems are the split grading and auto pattern making. So this system is suitable for users which want to product many items and a little amount garment by using the Apparel CAD system.

• 복식
• /
• 제54권2호
• /
• pp.121-133
• /
• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제41권3호
• /
• pp.420-432
• /
• 2017

This study examined user needs for compression pant development for women with pes planus in their 50s and 60s. A total of 355 women aged 50 to 69 participated in the survey and interview. Questions were asked if they had pes planus, the using condition of foot orthotic, inconveniences during gait, and wearing condition of compression pants. The results showed that 42 (11.8%) women had pes planus. Orthotic insole and arch support were used most frequently. The most uncomfortable aspect of foot orthotic (n=146) was that it was difficult to use unless they were going outside. Participants with pes planus responded that they felt discomfort on the inner area of propodium, metatarsus, ankle, and knee during gait. The purchase and wearing rate of compression pants were not high; however, compression pants were purchased with specific needs and purposes. Respondents mainly wore the compression pants for sports activities. M size was the most frequently worn size. They preferred high waist type leggings and there was a need to increase the compression strength of the waist, thigh, knee and ankle. Additionally, the ease of donning and doffing were discussed.