• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.114-126
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the art characteristics of Japonism expressed in Art Nouveau jewelry. This study also provided an opportunity to seek for the development direction of contemporary jewelry design for the future. The influence of Japanese arts in Art Nouveau jewelry, was mostly from Ukiyo-e, an art form from the Edo Dynasty in Japan. Japanese arts soon inspired the origination of Art Nouveau across Europe in the late 19th century. And the scope of its infuluence is shown in jewelry which created by contemporary painters and designers. Ukiyo-e, a folk painting was created from multi-color wooden printmaking emerged many Japanese art collectors, including Samuel Bing and Arthur Lasenby Liberty. This became a source of new inspirations for Degas, Monet, Gogh and the origin of Japonism. The layout techniques that used perspectives higher than eye level and that extremely cut or expanded major objects for emphasis were typical Ukiyo-e characteristics. The result of this study is found out by showing the evidence that influence of this Ukiyo-e's method came up with specificity as planity, naturality, decoration and express on the Art Nouveau jewelry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.16-32
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• 2022

In the intensely competitive global fashion market, the use of cultural elements to enhance design has become increasingly widespread. However, there is a lack of research on challenges and opportunities associated with integrating cultural elements of Minhwa into fashion design. Moreover, diverse approaches to incorporate Korean cultural elements into contemporary fashion designs are still needed. This study aims to reveal the real-world challenges relating to the incorporation of Korean cultural elements, including Minhwa, into fashion design and to clarify the possibility of applying Lin's cultural levels to cultural aspects in accordance with experts' views. To establish a theoretical foundation, the literature review on cultural design and Minhwa studies was conducted. It analyzes Minhwa to gain an understanding of the characteristics associated with different cultural levels. In-depth interviews with fashion industry professionals and Minhwa artists were conducted to ascertain their attitudes toward Minhwa use. The study's major findings were threefold. First, the cultural design facilitates the introduction, promotion, understanding, and maintenance of the culture. Since Minhwa offers rich inspiration linked to Korean culture, Minhwa-related designs can provide new perspectives while still having commercial potential. Second, however, the limitations of existing cultural designs included their being outdated, superficial without interpretation, unsophisticated, or limited. Furthermore, the use of Minhwa is limited since it is difficult to avoid creating superficial and unsophisticated designs in the real world. Third, approaching Minhwa at different cultural levels can promote diverse thinking and reduce the challenges of Minhwa use in design, but the major challenge remains visual expression.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.258-277
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• 2020

The purpose of this paper is to examine the paintings and symbols of the Jeju Guandeokjeong murals, Treasure No. 322. Gwandeokjeong Pavilion in Jeju is one of the oldest buildings in Jeju and was built in 1448 during the reign of King Sejong (世宗) of the Joseon Dynasty to serve as a training ground for soldiers. Unlike Gwandeokjeong Pavilions in other regions, Jeju's Gwandeokjeong Pavilion has a long history and is of cultural value due to its beautiful architecture. In addition, it contains various murals which are a further source of attention. There are four murals on the front and back of the two Lintels on the left and right sides of the building. Their contents include of 『The Three Kingdoms (三國志)』 and and on the back. Towards the right, is depicted, with on the back. Based on a replica of the murals from 1976, the plan, style, and age of the Gwandeokjeong Pavilion murals have been studied, together with their meanings. The contents of the mural are broadly divided into five parts, which are identified by the tacit signatures atop the screen, which provide such details as the painting titles. The paintings on the left and right sides of the center appear to inspire the spirit of the military's commerce in order to boost soldiers' morale, protect the country, and protect the people in line with the purpose of Gwandeokjeong Pavilion. The following and figuratively depict guidelines for the behavior and mindset of officials. In particular, is a painting concerned with concepts of longevity and an auspicious (吉祥), which shows how court paintings became popular as folk paintings at that time. The paintings of tangerines and other specialties of Jeju Island, the ritual paintings of Jeokbyeokdaejeon, and the expressions of Mt. Halla (漢拏山) and Oreum (오름) indicate the existence of Jeju artists that belonged to the Jeju government office at that time. The five themes and styles of the murals also show that the murals of Gwandeokjeong Pavilion were produced in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.64-87
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• 2020

Copper trihydroxychloride (atacamite, botallackite, paratacamite, etc.), the first green pigment used in Mogao Grotto's mural paintings of China, has been known as "copper green", "green salt", and "salt green", etc. and has been used as an important green pigment with malachite. At first, the natural mineral atacamite was employed, but after the Five Dynasties (907~960 CE), synthetic copper trihydroxychloride was primarily used. In Chinese literature, copper green, green salt, and salt green are recorded as being made via reaction with copper powder, Gwangmyeongyeom (natural sodium chloride), and Yosa (natural ammonium chloride), and the prepared material was analyzed to be copper trihydroxychloride. Copper trihydroxychloride pigment was not found in paintings prior to the Joseon Dynasty (1392~1910 CE) in Korea. In analysis of the green pigments used in paintings and the architectural paintworks in the Joseon Dynasty, copper trihydroxychloride was also shown to have been used as an important green pigment with malachite (Seokrok). In particular, the proportion of copper trihydroxychloride use was high in Buddhist paintings, shamanic paintings, and dancheongs (decorative coloring on wooden buildings). Some of these turned out to be synthetic copper trihydroxychloride, but it is unclear whether the rest of them are synthetic or natural pigments due to a lack of analyzed data. From literature and painting analyses, the pigment name of copper trihydroxychloride in the Joseon Dynasty turns out to be Hayeob, a dark green pigment. It is believed to have first been prepared by learning from China in the early Joseon period (early 15^th century) and its use continued until the late 19^th century with imported Chinese pigment. Round or oval particles with a dark core of copper trihydroxychloride which were used in Chinese literature were similar to the synthetic copper trihydroxychloride pigments used in the Joseon Dynasty and Chinese paintings. Therefore, the synthetic copper trihydroxychloride pigments of Korea and China are believed to have been prepared in a similar way.

• Korea Science and Art Forum
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• v.30
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• pp.119-127
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• 2017

Multi-cultural societies in the era of globalization are now common phenomena all over the world. Since our country has already entered into a multi-cultural society, we can no longer stay in the ideology of a single nation. However, current national policies and researches related to multi-cultural society in Korea are limited to institutional aspects and unilateral education of Korean culture. Therefore, this study aims to overcome these practical limitations. The purpose of this study is to acquire design resources in the folk paintings reflecting the culture of each country. And We will develop textile design content that can be applied to most closely related textile products in daily life. Through this, it is aimed to raise awareness of various cultures and to suggest a communication method through cultural exchange. Therefore, this study has developed color and textile pattern design contents through analysis of characteristics of China, Vietnam, and Japan peoples of the three most frequent countries based on the status of domestic marriage immigrants. And tried to apply it immediately to various textile products. The results and contents of the study are as follows. First, the domestic multi-cultural society was formed through international marriage, and the largest number of marriage immigrants came from China, Vietnam, Japan, the Philippines, Cambodia, Thailand, Mongolia and others. Second, folk paintings are suitable for developing textile design contents as an important factor implied by different cultures of different countries. Thirdly, we have developed the pattern and coloring DB and textile pattern design contents by using folk paintings of China, Vietnam and Japan. As a result, we could verify the utilization of contents reflecting the cultural characteristics of each country and the possibility of commercialization. Based on the results of this research, we hope to contribute to the harmonization of the emotional and artistic aspects that naturally share the culture among multi-cultural society members and to develop differentiated related products.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.96
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• pp.239-260
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• 2019

This paper examines the circulation and dissemination of painting during and after the nineteenth century through a case study on the One Hundred Fans paintings produced as decorative folding screens at the time. One Hundred Fans paintings refer to depictions of layers of fans in various shapes on which pictures of diverse themes are drawn. Fans and paintings on fans were depicted on paintings before the nineteenth century. However, it was in the nineteenth century that they began to be applied as subject matter for decorative paintings. Reflecting the trend of enjoying extravagant hobbies, fans and paintings on fans were mainly produced as folding screens. The folding screen of One Hundred Fans from the collection of the Museum am Rothenbaum Kulturen und Künste der Welt (hereafter Rothenbaum Museum) in Germany was first introduced to Korean in the exhibition The City in Art, Art in the City held at the National Museum of Korea in 2016. Each panel in this six-panel folding screen features more than five different fans painted with diverse topics. This folding screen is of particular significance since the National Museum of Korea holds the original drawings. In the nineteenth century, calligraphy and painting that had formerly been enjoyed by Joseon royal family members and the nobility in private spaces began to spread among common people and was distributed through markets. In accordance with the trend of adorning households, colorful decorative paintings were preferred, leading to the popularization of the production of One Hundred Fans folding screens with pictures in different shapes and themes. A majority of the Korean collection in the Rothenbaum Museum belonged to Heinrich Constantin Eduard Meyer(1841~1926), a German businessman who served as the Joseon consul general in Germany. From the late 1890s until 1905, Meyer traveled back and forth between Joseon and Germany and collected a wide range of Korean artifacts. After returning to Germany, he sequentially donated his collections, including One Hundred Fans, to the Rothenbaum Museum. Folding screens like One Hundred Fans with their fresh and decorative beauty may have attracted the attention of foreigners living in Joseon. The One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum is an intriguing work in that during its treatment, a piece of paper with the inscription of the place name "Donghyeon" was found pasted upside down on the back of the second panel. Donghyeon was situated in between Euljiro 1-ga and Euljiro 2-ga in present-day Seoul. During the Joseon Dynasty, a domestic handicraft industry boomed in the area based on licensed shops and government offices, including the Dohwaseo (Royal Bureau of Painting), Hyeminseo (Royal Bureau of Public Dispensary), and Jangagwon (Royal Bureau of Music). In fact, in the early 1900s, shops selling calligraphy and painting existed in Donghyeon. Thus, it is very likely that the shops where Meyer purchased his collection of calligraphy and painting were located in Donghyeon. The six-panel folding screen One Hundred Fans in the collection of the Rothenbaum Museum is thought to have acquired its present form during a process of restoring Korean artifacts works in the 1980s. The original drawings of One Hundred Fans currently housed in the National Museum of Korea was acquired by the National Folk Museum of Korea between 1945 and 1950. Among the seven drawings of the painting, six indicate the order of their panels in the margins, which relates that the painting was originally an eight-panel folding screen. Each drawing shows more than five different fans. The details of these fans, including small decorations and patterns on the ribs, are realistically depicted. The names of the colors to be applied, including 'red ocher', 'red', 'ink', and 'blue', are written on most of the fans, while some are left empty or 'oil' is indicated on them. Ten fans have sketches of flowers, plants, and insects or historical figures. A comparison between these drawings and the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum has revealed that their size and proportion are identical. This shows that the Rothenbaum Museum painting follows the directions set forth in the original drawings. The fans on the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum are painted with images on diverse themes, including landscapes, narrative figures, birds and flowers, birds and animals, plants and insects, and fish and crabs. In particular, flowers and butterflies and fish and crabs were popular themes favored by nineteenth century Joseon painters. It is noteworthy that the folding screen One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum includes several scenes recalling the typical painting style of Kim Hong-do, unlike other folding screens of One Hundred Fans or Various Paintings and Calligraphy. As a case in point, the theme of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" is depicted in the Rothenbaum folding screen even though it is not commonly included in folding screens of One Hundred Fans or One Hundred Paintings due to spatial limitations. The scene of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" in the Rothenbaum folding screen bears a resemblance to Kim Hong-do's folding screen of Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden at the National Museum of Korea in terms of its composition and style. Moreover, a few scenes on the Rothenbaum folding screen are similar to examples in the Painting Album of Byeongjin Year produced by Kim Hong-do in 1796. The painter who drew the fan paintings on the Rothenbaum folding screen is presumed to have been influenced by Kim Hong-do since the fan paintings of a landscape similar to Sainsam Rock, an Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden, and a Pair of Pheasants are all reminiscent of Kim's style. These paintings in the style of Kim Hong-do are reproduced on the fans left empty in the original drawings. The figure who produced both the original drawings and fan paintings appears to have been a professional painter influenced by Kim Hong-do. He might have appreciated Kim's Painting Album of Byeongjin Year or created duplicates of Painting Album of Byeongjin Year for circulation in the art market. We have so far identified about ten folding screens remaining with the One Hundred Fans. The composition of these folding screens are similar each other except for a slight difference in the number and proportion of the fans or reversed left and right sides of the fans. Such uniform composition can be also found in the paintings of scholar's accoutrements in the nineteenth century. This suggests that the increasing demand for calligraphy and painting in the nineteenth century led to the application of manuals for the mass production of decorative paintings. As the demand for colorful decorative folding screens with intricate designs increased from the nineteenth century, original drawings began to be used as models for producing various paintings. These were fully utilized when making large-scale folding screens with images such as Guo Ziyi's Enjoyment-of-Life Banquet, Banquet of the Queen Mother of the West, One Hundred Children, and the Sun, Cranes and Heavenly Peaches, all of which entailed complicated patterns. In fact, several designs repeatedly emerge in the extant folding screens, suggesting the use of original drawings as models. A tendency toward using original drawings as models for producing folding screens in large quantities in accordance with market demand is reflected in the production of the folding screens of One Hundred Fans filled with fans in different shapes and fan paintings on diverse themes. In the case of the folding screens of One Hundred Paintings, bordering frames are drawn first and then various paintings are executed inside the frames. In folding screens of One Hundred Fans, however, fans in diverse forms were drawn first. Accordingly, it must have been difficult to produce them in bulk. Existing examples are relatively fewer than other folding screens. As discussed above, the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum and its original drawings at the National Museum of Korea aptly demonstrate the late Joseon painting trend of embracing and employing new painting styles. Further in-depth research into the Rothenbaum painting is required in that it is a rare example exhibiting the influence of Kim Hong-do compared to other paintings on the theme of One Hundred Fans whose composition and painting style are more similar to those found in the work of Bak Gi-jun.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.193-214
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• 2015

The green pigments of shamanic paintings (83 items) in the 19~20th century were analyzed with X-ray fluorescent spectrometer(XRF), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR). In 60 items, copper and arsenic were detected in green pigments of the paintings by XRF spectra. Cu $K{\alpha}$/As $K{\beta}$ (peak intensity ratio of copper and arsenic) of shamanic paintings of Bokgaedang (shrine), solemn paintings (romance of three kingdoms) of Donggwanwangmyo and unknown enshrined place were 5.93~12.04 and higher compared to 5.67-6.26 of standard emerald greens and 4.01~7.89 of remaining shamanic paintings. The SEM images of crystal forms of copper-arsenic green pigments were various. Crystal forms were divided into oval and round spherulite with intersecting plate crystals and spherulite with agglomerate plate crystals. The crystals of the latter were found in shamanic paintings of Bokgaedang (shrine), solemn paintings (romance of three kingdoms) of Donggwanwangmyo and unknown enshrined place and the former were found in the rest of shamanic paintings. Copper-arsenic green pigments of shamanic paintings were identified as Scheele's green from shamanic paintings of Bokgaedang (shrine) and romance of three kingdoms. Emerald green from the rest of shamanic paintings by ATR-FTIR. From analytical results, it is confirmed that Scheele's green of shamanic paintings of Bokgaedang and romance of three kingdoms was used in the 1850s~1870s and emerald green had been widely used from late 19th century to 1970 in the rest of shamanic paintings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.39-59
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• 1981

This article briefly researched the Picture of Welcoming the Governor of Pyongan Province painted by Kim Hong-do, penname Danwon(1745-1818?). The Picture was composed of three parts and its historical and pictorial back-ground were reviewed firstly. And later the dress and its ornament appearing on the Picture were studied. In the historical viewpoint of dress and its ornament, the Picture shown all sorts of dress from lower class maids and servants to higher officials-dignatories and governor, and dealt with nearly all dresses. In order to support and to make better understand the dresses of that age, some Korean literary works of the same period depicting the dress and its ornament were also selected. This article dealt with the dress and its ornament. especially that of 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, and comparatively studied for our folk painting with literary works. Also the picture enabled to make this study was an important data of our old dress and its ornament. This painting was considered as one of our cultural treasures. Several conclusions drawn out from this study as followings: 1) In male and female dress of lower class people; male dress was consist of trouser and coat, and coat, and over the coat SOCHANGYI were used. Female dress was basically consist of skirt and these were white color of their favourite. Mainly simple color was used for clothing and its dress style were CHAKSOO-HYONG (narrow sleeve style) which convenient for a work. 2) Yangban's dress was consist of trouser, coat and over the coat, usually DOPO(over-coat) were used and some case JICKRYONGPO (a sort of over-coat) or CHANGYI were also used. These were GWANGSOO-HYONG (wide sleeve style) of inconvenient for a work. 3) In head-gear, there was no difference of the higher and the lower. They usually used HEUC-KRIP (black Korean hat). The OCKJUNGJA, GONJAKMI (peacock tail), HOSOO (tiger beard), and YOUNGJA (chin strip) were used according to officials ranks as head-gear's oraments. 4) Local petty officials used ordinary dress and CHUPRI (warn-dress) were also used by them, and military officials used war-dress of tight sleeve. 5) The belting of over-coat are different in color according to official grade. The higher grade wore red-wide belt, but generally black narrow belt for ordinary officials. 6) All KISAING girl wore SAMHYEOIJANG upper coat. And their head ornament were black KARIMA for grown KISAING. SAYANG hair for DONGKI or maiden KISAING and BINYEO (an ornamental rod of women's hair) were inserted into the hair of rear down part of head. The water carring maid wore BANHYEOIJANG upper coat and no KARIMA were on head and their coat were gloomy color. Above mentioned are several conclusions, and there migh be a false or erroneous explanations of 18th century dress and its ornament, however I considered they were data for blank period of quite unknown.

• 한국HCI학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2008.02b
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• pp.640-644
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• 2008

In this paper, firstly, I take the concept of korean traditional cultural archetype and cultural content, and discuss about methodology that the cultural archetype can be cultural content. As the methodology of making cultural content of cultural archetype, analyzing media art which used material of the painting and korea traditional dance in the Chosun Dynasty, the photograph in the era from the end of the Chosun Dynasty to modern age, and a folk play, etc. And then I would like to suggest that the method of making cultural content of the cultural archetype using new media.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.175-197
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• 2006

This study aims to assess the traditional knowledge on seasonal customs and its characteristics for practical use. The Delphi method and correspondence analysis were hired to collect and analysis the data. Twenty six professionals for the Delphi participated in three-round process. The followings were concluded. The number of items valuing and resourcing for seasonal customs. were 118(40 for folks and ceremonies, 53 for foods. 25 for plays) on Delphi results. For example are Bokjori, Dano fm, Bokjumeoni, Chuseok, Tano festival, New Year Card, washing hair with an iris, Soup with rice cake, Boiled rice with five cereals, Rice and red-bean porridge, Kimchi-making for the winter, Sharing walnut with friends, Game of yut, Playing kite, Play with Hanga etc. Nowadays the ideas of modernized practical use on seasonal customs was to connect with modernized scientific technology and designate commemoration day. The items for connecting with modernized scientific technology were new year card, painting and recording sound with traditional seasonal customs, food areas, cake with seven kind of cereals, play areas, hand wrestling, cockfighting in folks and customs areas. Also the items for designating commemoration days were the Suelbeam and Suelbeam Socks present for the aged people, man cooking day, Korean traditional workers day in folk and ceremony areas.