• Title/Summary/Keyword: First Ladies

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A Study on the Sang-Uiwon to Make Royal Attire in Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 상의원의 왕실복식 공급체계 연구)

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.2 s.111
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    • pp.11-28
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    • 2007
  • Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.

The Emergence of $Gar\c{c}onne$ and it's Costume in 1920's (1920년대 가르손느의 출현과 그 복식)

  • Cho Kyu Hwa
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.19-30
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    • 1984
  • There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

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A Study on the Costume of The Koryo Dynasty(2) -See through by human being, on the written Budist scripture(2)-2 (고려시대 인물관련 제작물을 통해서 본 복식에 관한 연구 (2) -고려시대 인물관련 제작 불화(佛畵) 중 '사경화'를 통해서 본 복식에 관한 연구(2) -평서민 남녀복식을 주로하여)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.23
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    • pp.211-223
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    • 1994
  • It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

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The Classification of Fashion Frame and Fashion Image of Korean Women in their Twenties and Thirties (한국 20~30대 여성의 패션 프레임과 패션이미지 유형화)

  • Shin, Sae-Young;Kim, Young-In
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.4
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    • pp.118-131
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to take a look at the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties to sort the actual fashion image and the ideal fashion image according to the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties, and also to find out the standards and features that divide such a classification. For this study, we used the Q method, which is valued as an effective way to assess subjectivity. This helps to objectively classify the perception the fashion images of and the response to them as well. The analyzed materials were divided into two actual fashion frames and two ideal fashion frames, and classified them into 12 fashion image types in total, that is, six actual fashion images and six ideal fashion images, and we named each type of the fashion images and analyzed the features of each fashion image type through the in-depth Q workshop in which 14 professionals participated. The results of this study are as follows: First, the actual fashion frames of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was largely divided into 'Fashion Gold Girl', the fashion frame of mainstream and 'Indi-idol', the fashion frame of subcultures, and this was further divided into six fashion image types: 'Basic Casual', 'Vintage Performer', 'Easy Chic', 'Ladies' Look', 'City Office Girl' and 'Club Mania'. Second, the ideal fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was divided into 'Urban Refinement', the fashion frame of the mainstream and 'Mismatched Style', the fashion frame of subcultures. It was also divided into six fashion image types: Power Fashion', 'Fashion Conservative', 'Semi-culture', 'Fashion Otaku', 'Sweet Darling' and 'Fashion Panic'. Third, The characteristics of the fashion images' colors are recognizable according to the type of fashion images.

Women's Religious Engagement at Daesoon Jinrihoe's Yeoju Headquarters (大巡真理會的女性宗教參與 : 以驪州本部道場為例)

  • Li, Yuchen
    • Journal of the Daesoon Academy of Sciences
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    • v.34
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    • pp.75-105
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    • 2020
  • Previous scholars have studied Daesoon Jinrihoe mainly through its scriptures and doctrines; however, in this essay I have combined data from a questionnaire with interviews I conducted to observe women's religious engagement from their own perspectives. I conducted my fieldwork from October 23 to 26 at Yeoju Headquarters in Korea and received 81 questionnaire replies. This ongoing project will shed light on the niche for women in Korean new religious movements. This essay is divided into three parts. First, I reviewed 5 articles on general attitudes towards women within Daesoon Jinrihoe to serve as a doctrinal introduction. Second, I used the Ladies Club, the Women's Assembly of the Department of Social Welfare, and female students from the Inter- national Volunteers Association to better understand women's participation and education in Daesoon Jinrihoe on an institutional level. Third, I issued a questionnaire in order to learn respondents' sex, age, educational background, and birth place and used those data points determine patterns in how the above influence religious participation and positions in Daesoon Jinrihoe. My investigation showed that both the self-expectation and division of labor among the followers at Yeoju Headquarter were affected by and corresponded to social gender roles. Moreover, the emphasis on missionary work rather than centralized hierarchy contributed to a reduction in the influence of gender-segregation and led to relative coherence in terms of gender relations within Daesoon Jinrihoe.

The Internal Deconstruction Trend Expressed in the Works of Jean Paul Gaultier (장 폴 골티에 작품에 나타난 내적 해체경향)

  • 최영옥
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.4
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    • pp.574-591
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    • 2001
  • This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

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Characteristics of the construction process, the history of use and performed rituals of Gyeongungung Heungdeokjeon (경운궁 흥덕전의 조영 및 사용 연혁과 설행된 의례의 특징)

  • LIM, Cholong;JOO, Sanghun
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.55 no.1
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    • pp.281-304
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    • 2022
  • Heungdeokjeon was the first pavilion built on the site of Sueocheong during the expansion of Gyeongungung. In this study, we tried to clarify the specific construction process of Heungdeokjeon, which was used for various purposes such as the copy location for Portraits of ancestors, temporary enshrinement site, and the funeral building for the rest of the body, which is Binjeon. In addition, we tried to confirm the historical value based on the characteristics derived by the history of the building and the rituals performed. Heungdeokjeon began to be built in the second half of 1899, and is estimated to have been completed between mid-February and mid-March 1900. It was a ritual facility equipped with waiting rooms for the emperor and royal ladies as an annex. The relocation work was planned in April 1901 and began in earnest after June, and it was closely linked to the construction of attached buildings of Seonwonjeon. In addition, comparing the records on the construction and relocation cost of Heungdeokjeon with those related to the reconstruction of Seonwonjeon, it was confirmed that annex buildings of Heungdeokjeon were relocated and used as annex buildings of Seonwonjeon. The characteristics identified in the process of Heungdeokjeon used as a place to copy portraits are as follows. First, it was used as a place to copy portraits twice in a short period of time. Second, it was the place where the first unprecedented works were carried out in relation to the copying of portraits. Third, the pavilion, which was specially built for imperial rituals, was used as a place to copy portraits. Since then, it has been used as a funeral building for the rest of the body, and features different from those of the previous period are identified. It was the building dedicated to rituals for use as Binjeon, and was also a multipurpose building for copying portraits. In other words, Heungdeokjeon, along with Gyeongbokgung Taewonjeon, is the building that shows the changes in the operation of Binjeon in the late Joseon Dynasty. Characteristics are also confirmed in portrait-related rituals performed at Heungdeokjeon. The first is that Jakheonlye was practiced frequently in a short period of time. The second is that the ancestral rites of Sokjeolje and Bunhyang in Sakmangil, which are mainly held in the provincial Jinjeon, were identified. This is a very rare case in Jinjeon of the palace. The last is that Jeonbae, jeonal, and Bongsim were implemented mutiple times. In conclusion, Heungdeokjeon can be said to be a very symbolic building that shows the intention of Gojong, who valued imperial rituals, and the characteristics of the reconstruction process of Gyeongungung.

Promotional Strategies of Local Drugstores

  • Kim, Seung-Mi;Lee, Sang-Yoon;Kim, Pan-Jin;Kim, Nam-Myun;Youn, Myoung-Kil
    • The Journal of Industrial Distribution & Business
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.5-12
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    • 2010
  • The retail business of drugstore was introduced to Korea for the first time 10 years ago. Since Olive Young introduced a retail store in the name of drugstore in 1999 for the first time in Korea, new distribution channel combining drugstore, cosmetic products and dairy products, etc has been made. At initial stage, the new distribution channel grew up slowly because of low specialty and economic stagnation. However, the three big distribution channels, that is to say, Olive Young (CJ), Watsons (GS) and W Store (Kolon Well Care), etc, were established to produce new distribution system following large-scaled discount stores as well as convenience stores. The purpose of the study is to investigate ways making Korean style drugstore be new retail business in addition to traditional markets, department stores, E-Mart and other general super markets and to examine problems preventing the drugstore from being promoted and to find out solutions. The speciality retailers that is called a category killer attacking department stores as well as marts is expanding market quickly. New consumption trend that gives priority to wellbeing is being expanded in accordance with high level of standards of living life: The drugstore is thought to be new alternative of distribution because it keeps special products. Young ladies who are main customers of drugstores respond to the trend sensitively to have more buying power that is thought to be promising. And, consumers' desire has become concrete and special. This is because consumers want not only convenient shopping but also special shopping system that is current trend. These days, so called Multi-shop and Total shop and other special shops have been recently opened. Special multi-shop has been concentrated on fashion product and miscellaneous goods so far: Health total wellbeing shop shall be popular in accordance with wellbeing trends. Drugstores can play an important role. Drugstores were opened for the first time ten years ago. In particular, Olive Young succeeded in going into the black after making efforts for a long time by many persons. Drugstores could succeed in the business owing to many persons in the past as well as customers who liked drugstores. However, drugstores once lost ways and recorded poor business results. The three drugstores, that is to say, Olive Young, Watsons making efforts to go into the black and W-Store pursuing traditional drugstore shall compete each other and make effort to satisfy customers' desire. In that way, the three drugstores can be assured of present business as well as future business. The consumers' demand trend has become special at sub-division so that drugstores that can satisfy the demand can succeed in the business. Large businesses may be more interested in the 4th generation retail business to produce good income and to have bright future. Drugstore business and market are likely to expand and develop owing to large business' participation in drugstore business. Drugstores expanded shop at Seoul and Gyeonggi-do until middle of 2000. Drugstore business at station sphere in Seoul and Gyeonggi-do that have high ratio of temporary population has low customer loyalty to have limitation on continuous growth. Since 2009, drugstores have opened new shops at local towns: From the year of 2010, drugstores need to establish multiple shop strategy by accelerating business speed and to allow customers to drop in the shop anywhere in the nation and to enter consumers' life deeply, so that they can strengthen business base definitely. Drugstores need to have price competitiveness to have multiple shop opening strategy and to satisfy consumers and to supply high quality services that is future subject to solve. And, Olive Young and Watsons that are Korean style drugstore need to keep system in order and to strengthen substance as Korean style drugstore and to expand marketing, so that they can get business outcome within 5 years that was done 10 years before and they become the 4th generation retail business. The study had difficulties at collecting material from the three drugstore because of poor cooperation. And, the author had great difficulty at collecting statistical material that was made in disorder. Further effort is needed considering such problems.

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Existent, but Non-existent Spaces for Others Focusing on Discourse-spaces of a Korean Movie (2016) (존재하지만 존재 않는 타자들의 공간 영화 <죽여주는 여자>의 담론 공간을 중심으로)

  • Jang, Eun Mi;Han, Hee Jeong
    • Korean journal of communication and information
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    • v.84
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    • pp.99-123
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    • 2017
  • We analyzed the movie (2016/ directed by J-yong E), which is entangled in politics of gender, age, class, or sexuality, naming as "spaces of Others", using the concepts of heterotopia of Foucault. Foucault addressed three types of spaces: the realistic space where we currently live, the unrealistic and non-existent utopia, and heterotopia, which functions antithetically to reality. Thus, Foucault's heterotopia can be considered to indicate "heterogeneous spaces" in reality. The Bacchus Lady revolves a 65-year old prostitute So-Young, sells her body to old men at the parks in downtown of Seoul. Old prostitute on streets are often referred as "Bacchus Ladies", because suggest the popular energy drink a bottle of Bacchus while selling sex. The movie represents some minorities such as transgender, Tina and madam of the club, G-spot, migrant women like Camila and Aindu, and a amputee, Dohoon. Through these people's bodies, the problems such as imperials, nations, ethnics, gender, age, class are entangled in the movie. The politics of these points work and construct heterotopias in four spaces of Others. First, the spaces which ageing and death are intersected. Second, the spaces of So-Young for prostitutes, Third, the spaces of So-Young's mothering: she adopted her baby to American when he was a infant, so she have felt guilty. Fourth, the spaces for So-young's quasi-family with Minho, a Kopian boy who was abandoned by Korean father, Dohoon, who is a poor amputee, and Tina, who is a transgender singer. Fifth, the spaces of speech of So-Young as the subaltern: the subaltern does not have the language to express its own experiences. In order to listen to the words of subaltern, we must do the task of measuring the silence. This cinematic representation of So-young as the subaltern makes her speak about her situation. Finally, the spaces constructed by the movie can be connected 'heterotopia of crisis', 'heterotopia of deviation' and 'heterotopia of fantasy'. The spaces of the movie represents lives of Others, nevertheless, So-Young's Otherness through spaces of heterotopia was transformed to an absolute Other by patriarchal traits of cinematic narrative.

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The Direction of Job Policy Development for Korean Golf Professionals (한국 골프전문인력의 일자리 정책 발전방안)

  • Cho, Jung-Soon;Suh, Ah-Ram
    • Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.289-303
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study is to provide adequate datas on number of people who are in golf related field and also further expend that number for golf industry. The main stream of this study is to map out present golf related jobs and how this study can help golf industry in general. To make a greater improvements on golf industry with more job opportunity following ideas were presented. First, improving education on "hand on experiences on the field of golf industry" Better educating potential employees for golf industry for the right positions can enhance overall work environment. To do so, the society and the schools must come to agreement to provide adequate curriculum for people. Second, implementing "a golf club division program." The support from Ministry of Culture and Sports and Tourism Department, which are govern by Republic of Korea, are aggressively working to expend the golf business and also recruit elite personnel like former tour players to work on the field to better operate the whole system. Third, performing a thorough research on current golf related jobs and numbers and diversity on the field. Fourth, developing a specific and a differentiated golf job fields for better future for people and students who majored in golf industry. So that they cam feel secured and have a sense of dignity. Finally, strengthening the golf industry's competitiveness. The golf related companies have to step up to higher gear. With working in harmony between golf industry and government can assure of brighter future for our next generation.