• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.11-28
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• 2007

Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.211-223
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.118-131
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to take a look at the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties to sort the actual fashion image and the ideal fashion image according to the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties, and also to find out the standards and features that divide such a classification. For this study, we used the Q method, which is valued as an effective way to assess subjectivity. This helps to objectively classify the perception the fashion images of and the response to them as well. The analyzed materials were divided into two actual fashion frames and two ideal fashion frames, and classified them into 12 fashion image types in total, that is, six actual fashion images and six ideal fashion images, and we named each type of the fashion images and analyzed the features of each fashion image type through the in-depth Q workshop in which 14 professionals participated. The results of this study are as follows: First, the actual fashion frames of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was largely divided into 'Fashion Gold Girl', the fashion frame of mainstream and 'Indi-idol', the fashion frame of subcultures, and this was further divided into six fashion image types: 'Basic Casual', 'Vintage Performer', 'Easy Chic', 'Ladies' Look', 'City Office Girl' and 'Club Mania'. Second, the ideal fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was divided into 'Urban Refinement', the fashion frame of the mainstream and 'Mismatched Style', the fashion frame of subcultures. It was also divided into six fashion image types: Power Fashion', 'Fashion Conservative', 'Semi-culture', 'Fashion Otaku', 'Sweet Darling' and 'Fashion Panic'. Third, The characteristics of the fashion images' colors are recognizable according to the type of fashion images.

• 대순사상논총
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• 제34집
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• pp.75-105
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• 2020

不同於以往教義和文獻為主的研究方法, 本文是首次結合問卷量化, 訪談調查, 從女性參與者觀點, 制度層面的研究。2019年10月23日至26日期間, 我到驪州本部道場進行田調, 共計回收有效問卷81份。期待落實大巡真理會的發展與理念, 更進一步比較分析東亞新興宗教的女性宗教生態(niche)。本文先回顧相關大巡真理會的婦女研究, 輔以其他大巡真理會的資料。透過早期的夫人會 (1980年成立) 到社會福祉部的婦女會, 國際志工團辦公室的青年會的女學生, 理解女性在宗教慈善活動扮演的角色以及教內的養成教育。然後以性別為比較主軸, 進行問卷分析。受訪者基本資料包含性別, 年齡, 籍貫, 教育程度 ; 其宗教參與則以修行經歷和教團分工為主, 包含入道年數, 家庭信教代別, 職業分布, 教內工作, 教內職級。上述研究變項與問卷問項顯示, 性別對大巡真理會信徒在弘法佈教中的自我預期, 教內分工, 皆存在影響效果。調查顯示, 大巡真理會的女信眾無論在教育機會, 工作分配和升遷上都符合社會期待的性別角色。這種和諧互補的兩性關係, 符合教義和現代韓國的新興宗教與家庭倫理。其各項男女差距以及分布情況並未產生性別分隔的情況, 驪州本部道場受雇用的女性仍然具優勢。

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.281-304
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• 2022

흥덕전은 경운궁의 확장 과정에서 궁역으로 편입된 수어청 부지에 최초로 지어진 전각이었다. 본 연구에서는 어진 모사처, 임시 봉안처, 빈전 등 다양한 용도로 사용되었던 흥덕전의 구체적인 조영 과정을 밝히는 한편, 흥덕전의 사용 연혁을 구체적으로 조사하고 설행된 의례를 분석하여 도출한 특징을 토대로 흥덕전의 역사적 가치를 확인하고자 하였다. 흥덕전은 1899년 하반기에 건립되기 시작되어, 1900년 2월 중순에서 3월 중순 사이에 완공된 것으로 추정된다. 흥덕전은 부속 전각으로 어재실과 내재실을 갖춘 의례시설이었다. 흥덕전의 이건은 1901년 4월에 계획되어 6월 이후에 본격적으로 진행되었는데, 이건 공사는 선원전 부속 전각의 공사 및 선원전 중건의 추가 공사와 밀접하게 연계되어 진행되었다. 또, 흥덕전의 영건 역비와 이건비의 기록, 선원전 중건 관련 비용 내역을 비교 검토한 결과, 흥덕전의 부속 전각인 어재실과 내재실이 선원전의 어재실과 이안청으로 이건되어 사용되었음을 확인할 수 있었다. 흥덕전은 1900년 초 영건되자마자 두 차례에 걸쳐 어진 모사처로 사용되었는데, 그 과정에서 확인되는 특징은 다음과 같다. 첫 번째는 짧은 시간 동안 두 차례의 어진 모사처로 사용되었다는 것이다. 두 번째는 조선 및 대한제국 시기의 어진 모사와 관련하여 선례가 없는 최초의 작업들이 진행된 장소였다는 점이다. 세 번째는 황실 의례를 위하여 별도로 건립된 전각을 어진 모사처로 사용하였다는 점이다. 이후 흥덕전은 빈전으로 사용되었는데, 이전 시기의 빈전과는 다른 특징이 확인된다. 흥덕전은 빈전으로 사용될 수 있도록 미리 준비된 의례용 전용 전각이었으며, 어진 모사처로도 사용된 다목적의 의례용 전각이었다. 즉, 흥덕전은 경복궁 태원전과 함께 조선 후기 빈전 운영의 변화를 잘 보여주는 전각인 것이다. 흥덕전에서 설행된 어진 관련 의례에서도 주목되는 특징이 확인된다. 첫 번째는 짧은 기간 동안 다수의 작헌례가 설행되었다는 점이다. 두 번째는 주로 지방의 진전에서 거행되는 속절제와 삭망일의 분향이 확인되었다는 점으로, 이는 궁궐 내 진전에서는 매우 드문 사례이다. 마지막은 전배 및 전알, 봉심이 다수 시행되었다는 점이다. 즉, 흥덕전은 황실 의례를 매우 중시하였던 고종의 의도와 경운궁 중건 과정의 특징을 대표적으로 보여주는 매우 상징적인 전각이라 할 수 있다.

• 산경연구논집
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.5-12
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• 2010

The retail business of drugstore was introduced to Korea for the first time 10 years ago. Since Olive Young introduced a retail store in the name of drugstore in 1999 for the first time in Korea, new distribution channel combining drugstore, cosmetic products and dairy products, etc has been made. At initial stage, the new distribution channel grew up slowly because of low specialty and economic stagnation. However, the three big distribution channels, that is to say, Olive Young (CJ), Watsons (GS) and W Store (Kolon Well Care), etc, were established to produce new distribution system following large-scaled discount stores as well as convenience stores. The purpose of the study is to investigate ways making Korean style drugstore be new retail business in addition to traditional markets, department stores, E-Mart and other general super markets and to examine problems preventing the drugstore from being promoted and to find out solutions. The speciality retailers that is called a category killer attacking department stores as well as marts is expanding market quickly. New consumption trend that gives priority to wellbeing is being expanded in accordance with high level of standards of living life: The drugstore is thought to be new alternative of distribution because it keeps special products. Young ladies who are main customers of drugstores respond to the trend sensitively to have more buying power that is thought to be promising. And, consumers' desire has become concrete and special. This is because consumers want not only convenient shopping but also special shopping system that is current trend. These days, so called Multi-shop and Total shop and other special shops have been recently opened. Special multi-shop has been concentrated on fashion product and miscellaneous goods so far: Health total wellbeing shop shall be popular in accordance with wellbeing trends. Drugstores can play an important role. Drugstores were opened for the first time ten years ago. In particular, Olive Young succeeded in going into the black after making efforts for a long time by many persons. Drugstores could succeed in the business owing to many persons in the past as well as customers who liked drugstores. However, drugstores once lost ways and recorded poor business results. The three drugstores, that is to say, Olive Young, Watsons making efforts to go into the black and W-Store pursuing traditional drugstore shall compete each other and make effort to satisfy customers' desire. In that way, the three drugstores can be assured of present business as well as future business. The consumers' demand trend has become special at sub-division so that drugstores that can satisfy the demand can succeed in the business. Large businesses may be more interested in the 4th generation retail business to produce good income and to have bright future. Drugstore business and market are likely to expand and develop owing to large business' participation in drugstore business. Drugstores expanded shop at Seoul and Gyeonggi-do until middle of 2000. Drugstore business at station sphere in Seoul and Gyeonggi-do that have high ratio of temporary population has low customer loyalty to have limitation on continuous growth. Since 2009, drugstores have opened new shops at local towns: From the year of 2010, drugstores need to establish multiple shop strategy by accelerating business speed and to allow customers to drop in the shop anywhere in the nation and to enter consumers' life deeply, so that they can strengthen business base definitely. Drugstores need to have price competitiveness to have multiple shop opening strategy and to satisfy consumers and to supply high quality services that is future subject to solve. And, Olive Young and Watsons that are Korean style drugstore need to keep system in order and to strengthen substance as Korean style drugstore and to expand marketing, so that they can get business outcome within 5 years that was done 10 years before and they become the 4th generation retail business. The study had difficulties at collecting material from the three drugstore because of poor cooperation. And, the author had great difficulty at collecting statistical material that was made in disorder. Further effort is needed considering such problems.

• 한국언론정보학보
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• 제84권
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• pp.99-123
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• 2017

본 연구는 여성주의적 시각으로 영화 <죽여주는 여자>가 구성하는 공간을 헤테로토피아의 개념으로 분석하였다. 분석 결과, 젠더, 계급, 연령, 국가, 섹슈얼리티, 민족, 직업의 정치학이 상호 교차하면서 다음과 같은 공간을 구성하였다. 첫째, 나이 듦과 죽음이 교차하는 공간이다. 요양 병원, 달동네 쪽방촌, 북한산 바위, 호텔, 교도소 등을 통해 구성되는 이 공간은 죽음에 대한 역설과 모순을 불러일으키면서 죽음에 작동하는 가부장적 시선에 이의를 제기한다. 둘째, 밥벌이로서의 성매매 노동 공간으로 싸구려 여관과 녹음 짙은 야외 공원으로 대비되는 장소들이다. 낡은 여관방은 가부장적 성규범 사회에서 보호받지 못하는 '성매매 여성' 소영이 늙은 몸이 되면서 비체화되고 타자화되는 순간을 드러낸다. 셋째, 끊임없이 소환되는 모성 공간은 자식을 버린 죄책감에서 벗어나지 못한 소영의 일상을 통해 구성된다. 민호에 대한 과한 돌봄과 남성노인들에 대한 과도한 연민은 모성 결핍과 연결되면서, 모성 집착의 서사는 영화 내 다른 시선들과 충돌한다. 넷째, '다문화 소수자 유사가족 공간'은 이태원을 중심으로 경계 바깥의 구성원들이 모여 사는 공간이다. 이곳은 이성애 기반의 혈연 중심 '정상 가족'의 동질성에 균열을 내고 정상성 바깥의 섹슈얼리티를 가시화시키는 이질적 공간이다. 다섯째, 하위주체로서의 소영의 말하기 공간이다. 하위주체인 소영의 영화적 재현이 '말 걸기'라면 영화 텍스트 내에서 소영은 '말하기'의 주체로서 적극적으로 응대한다.

• 한국엔터테인먼트산업학회논문지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.289-303
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• 2020

본 연구는 골프분야의 전문인력 현주소를 파악하여 골프산업에서의 일자리를 확대할 수 있는 방안을 강구하기 위한 기초자료를 제시하는데 목적을 두었다. 이를 위한 연구의 주요내용은 한국의 골프직업 및 전문인력 현주소, 한국 골프전문인력의 직업적 발전 방향을 다각적으로 분석하여 제시하였고 전문적, 직업적인 골프 일자리 창출을 위한 정책들의 발전방안들을 다음과 같이 제안하였다. 첫째, 대학과 사회가 연계될 수 있는 실용적인 교육과정 개편 확대를 제안하였다. 이를 위해 골프교육 분야에서도 국가직무능력표준(NCS)의 적극적인 도입 및 활용뿐만 아니라 골프현장에서 적용할 수 있는 마케팅 능력을 겸비한 다양한 골프전문가 등을 양성해야 할 것이다. 둘째, 골프클럽디비전 프로그램의 적극적인 도입과 추진을 제안하였다. 문화체육관광부와 대한체육회에서 정부지원 사업으로 적극적으로 추진하고 있는 상황이며, 골프클럽디비전 사업 추진을 통해 우수인재 확보, 은퇴선수 효율적 관리, 다양한 연령층의 생활체육 골프 참여 문화 조성 등 운영 체질이 개선될 것이다. 셋째, 골프 취업자 전수조사를 제안하였다. 골프분야 취업자 현황도 체육지도자 범주 속에서 별도의 현황 파악이 필요하며, 이는 고용안정과 함께 제도적인 접근을 모색하기 위해 반드시 골프종사자에 대한 취업 전수조사가 체계적으로 이루어져야 할 것으로 판단된다. 넷째, 전문적이고 특화된 골프직업군의 개발과 전개를 제안하였다. 국가 발전의 동력을 위해 골프전공자들의 사회 진출 선택권이 넓어지고 학생선두들이 은퇴 후에도 안정적인 직장을 갖고 골프인들이 자긍심을 가질 수 있도록 해야만 한다. 특히, 생활체육분야에서의 골프복지사, 장애인 및 노인 등 대상을 위한 골프여가치료사, 그리고 해양스포츠와 골프관광의 융합상품의 개발도 새로운 일자리 창출 영역으로 판단된다. 다섯째, 골프산업 경쟁력의 강화를 제안하였다. 이를 위한 기업 차원에서는 가격의 거품을 빼고 낮추며, 품질 및 기술력에 대한 적극적인 투자, 아울러 홍보 부분 강화가 필요하다고 본다. 또한 정부 차원에서는 다양한 정부지원의 제공과 분위기 조성, 전문 인력의 양성과 기술개발 투자와 함께 적극적인 홍보가 필요할 것으로 판단된다.