• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.4
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• pp.1-20
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• 2017

Centered on Kathleen Kye, a designer who conveyed messages on social issues through her dresses, and established her own identity, this study aimed to examine what theme, method of expression and inner meaning her 'statement' had, as a way of expressing a critical awareness. After reviewing discussions by Duggan G. G. as well as dictionary definitions, statement fashion design can be defined as a work or fashion shows containing a message of a designer who is free from a particular trend or consumerism in various social issues. Statement fashion designers give opposing messages on social issues through their fashion collections. As a result, research shows that contemporary statement fashion designers are expressing themes of a fashion systems, fetishism, body image, collision, environment, as well as the socially disadvantaged by appropriation, reuse, slogan, metaphorical pattern and performance. Satire, awakening, challenge and support can be derived from the inner meaning of contemporary statement fashion design. In terms of the theme, method of expression and inner meaning, this study showed that KYE collection of the designer Kathleen Kye expresses critical awareness on the modern society. Research findings reveal that KYE collection include the following themes: long-term youth unemployment, conflict collision in war or on the Internet, fetishism by youth in a get-rich-quick fever, environmental issue causing destruction of an ecosystem by decrease in bee population, school violence and the socially disadvantaged related to alienated immigrants. Also, as a method of expression themes, such as metaphorical patterns, were used. The patterns used images including a skeleton, gun, heart, rope, plaster, homeless box, bee, honeycomb, chain and a slot machine. On the other hand, the inner meaning of statement in KYE collection showed satire on social issues, awakening on social issues unrecognized by the masses, and support for the socially disadvantaged.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.353-368
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• 2015

Walter Van Beirendonck expresses a fairy tale world of perverted sexual desire of sadism and masochism, violence, and aggressiveness that breaks from a transient one-time concept as is an essential element of fashion. This study classifies the aesthetic characteristic shown on the design of Walter Van Beirendonck and analyzes the intent of his symbolism and meaning. The attempt has a meaning in exploring a new directionality of fashion by conveying a critical message to this end, contemporary fashion breaks down boundaries with artistic genre and connects a problematic consciousness that exists in life with fashion. The results of study on the aesthetic characteristics of Walter Van Beirendonck are as follows. First, Beirendonck emphasized an interpersonal image about body by giving a question through the deconstruction of image on a perfect body into race, age, and body based on body modification. Second, fetishism appeared as a consciousness that human identity and character can be changed by connecting a fetish element of sexual identity, and sadism and masochism with fashion's imagination. Third, infantilism as an amusement expression of the form metaphorically satirized life of modern people. Fourth, makeup shown on performance or festival of an African tribe was used in the way of mixture or reuse for ethnography to obtain inspiration from ethnography. Fifth, pop art combined a popular culture code as amusement through mass production and mass media. Aesthetics of Beirendonck do not have norm and are bold in using form, color, pattern, print, and styling because Beirendonck reinterpreted critical attitudes about essential problems that human life entails into a motif of his symbolic meaning in amusement. In regards to his design aesthetics, Beirendonck expanded fashion to the scope of Gesamtkunstwerk in a consistent and continued theme combined with philosophical creativity and differentiated from other fashion designers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.163-174
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to review the features of eroticism expressed in men's fashion, to explain psychological and social contexts which engender eroticism and to analyze in what way eroticism is portrayed in men s fashion in this context. Eroticism as the metonymy of forbidden sexual desire, has been embodied mostly in visual forms such as picture and photo. From a psychoanalytic view, the context in which eroticism is formed can be explained by primary narcissism and fetishism. Primary narcissism is the feeling of satisfaction with the self in which the subject who is admiring and the object of admiration are one and the same. Accordingly, in order to give rise to eroticism, both subject and object have to exist. Fetishism, the metonymy of castrated penis, is also one of the factors to produce eroticism. Metaphorically seen as a woman who has a penis, a man who dresses in the same manner as a woman dresses can be a source of eroticism to gays. From a sociological view, the context in which eroticism is fostered depends on the dynamic relations among social powers. In these relations, who is a subject or who is an object has been continuously changing. In the Post-modern culture appearing in the late 20th century, power begins to take various forms, and gays and women who had never been subjects begin to make man an object of eroticism. The other point is that social morality, ignoring desire itself, objectifies sexual desire and seeks to remove It by exchanging it for objectified symbols. The design elements provoking eroticism in men s fashion are exposure and decoration. In particular, models in exposure and decorative fashion have been objectified through the methods of fragmentation rather than showing the whole figure or removing a person s individuality or will,.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.218-230
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is -under the post-modem situation- to emphasize the role of women which has various several logic on feminism, to look forward to division of men's consciousness of women, and to reflect a trend to accept the role of sex which is occurring in the system of sex, that is, 'The Third Gender and Homosexuality'. The category of biological and sociocultural on feminism discussed, meantime expressed the sexual logic under post-modern situation, and probed the sexual logic on feminism which was expressed in modem dress and its ornaments by redefining some characters as follows; Imitation-it was to attain masculinity by imitating the body of the opposite sex. Interaction such situations like...... masculinity in women, feminity in men was demonstrated as transvestism of cross-dressing and the symbolic meaning of homosexuality was demonstrated in the shoes of sociocultural on Feminism. Dispersion appeared as a moderation charm and a resistance against the men-ruling culture. Destruction-expressed the fetishism of punk of porny image and maternal affectional image of biological trend as playful satire. Therefore, It is conceived that Feminism would be created true human-phase come true in the men's world as long as the realization of women themselves make the phase of women higher; and further not only propose new image of women but the system of gender.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.16-26
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• 2001

The object of this study is to reach a semiotics access in a specialized magazine advertisement, by emphasizing the advertisement, which uses eroticism. The main components of eroticism are voyeurism, narcissism, fetishism, masochism, and sadism. From the results of analyzing their impact on fashion magazine advertisements, which is limited in erotic expression, 'the women's gender role ideology' is mainstream. Especially, this is joined with a 'patriarch ideology' and the 'women's role ideology' on the view of feminism. It can be expressed erotic with 'traditional women's roles', 'rebelling against tradition', and a 'leading women role on sexuality'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.43-54
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to clarify the meanings of the images of the body-in-pieces in fashion design. This study focusing on the body-in-pieces based theoretically in that, and started to figure out the meanings in western art history. Body-in-pieces images were brought in art to express symbolic meanings to destroy the past, sexual fetish, unconsciousness, desire, fantasy, and to disorganize male-subjective idealistic female image. While in fashion design, body-in-pieces images categorized in three, erotic image, cyborg image, abjection image. First, erotic images in fashion design are fragmented body image, such like lip, hair, eye and etc. Second, cyborg image was represented by 3-dimentional molding image made of metallic materials, and last, abjection image representing death image used skeleton and bone image induced uncanny and sadistic feelings. Body-in-pieces images in fashion design are related to fetishism, uncanny, disorganizing traditional femininity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.200-209
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• 2009

Mirrors often appear in fashion advertisements. This study aimed to analyze meanings of the images represented in fashion advertisements using mirrors. This study analyzed the meanings of mirror image in Western art history, and also studied meanings of female representations in the paintings. Based on previous studies, this study classified mirrors' expressions in three types and analyzed their meanings. To analyze the meanings of the three types, this study researched the symbolic meanings of the mirrors in visual arts chronologically, first. And then, this study interpreted that in the context of consumption cultures and consuming ideologies in view of feminism, consumption ideology, desire theory, and fetishism. The results of this study were as follows; 1. Narcistic body expressions associated with strong and independent women, while associated submissive being overwhelmed by consumption cultures. 2. The method of revealing the female body throughout mirrors was meant to attract the attention of consumer. 3. Multiplied body images meaning was like a commodity in fashion advertisements.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.531-550
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• 2018

This paper contemplates egalitarian ethics and ecumenical consumerism suggesting expansive possibilities of Northern Ireland's sectarian limits towards unlimited spatialities in Robert McLiam Wilson's Belfast novel, Eureka Street. This paper argues that Northern Ireland's (Belfast's) (post)modernity and a social ethics promoting outwardly mediated relationships are a vision for nonidentity Eureka Street espouses against the identity politics of Protestant-Catholic schism. Eureka Street remarkably challenges Northern Irish sectarian politics propelling inwardly unmediated relationships by ethical possibilities of infinitively mediated relationships. In the argument for a postmodern view of the novel, commodity fetishism and consumerism are considered as key to a prospect of emancipation of Northern Ireland from the political fetters of total identity the partisan communities impose on themselves. This paper also demonstrates that a post-national cosmopolitanism Eureka Street envisages embraces a new social solidarity predicated upon socio-political pluralisms against Northern Irish sectarian identities.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2014

Entering the twentieth century, corsets began to disappear with the tendency of concentrating on slim bodies and youth. As corsets proceeded to be discarded, they began to be internalized as a means of controlling the body; 'muscular corset' takes hold. However, the internalized corset increasingly appears to be externalized again in contemporary fashion. This study investigates how natural body is reconstructed as socio-cultural image drawing on the relationship between the signifier and signified of corset. As for the research methodology this study conducts literature survey to investigate the internalization of corset. This study proceeds to examine the subjects of fashion collections from 1980 to 2010 and samples the outfits which represent the externalization of corset through case analysis. Through the discussion of the study, the relationship of signifier and signified in the externalization of corset is argued as follows: first, by maintaining signifier and signified of the traditional corset as underwear, aggressive eroticism of corset has been observed, second, by perceiving corset as the agency of the body, fetishism of corset dissociates the function of sexual object from corset while distorting the relationship of signifier and signified, third, through embodying the notion of muscular corset literally, the ironical representation of corset as a torturing device of female body deconstructs the traditional relation of signifier and signified of corset.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.72-92
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review relationship between various expression method in modern make-up and the tendency of Neo-Avantgarde. In this paper, the author classified the distinctive characters in Neo-Avantagarde with Historicism, Decadence, Humor, and Inhumanism and explained innovation and creatio which is manifested in the late 1990\`s make-up by studying Neo-Avantgarde tendency expressed in modern make-up. The results are as follows. 1. The Historicism in modern make-up is expressed in Japanese Kabuki Make-up, Chinese Pecking Opera make-up, and Primitive mask Make-up in Africa. 2. The Decadence is manifested in Tattoo make-up which is expressing fetishism and fin-de-냗칟 image, and Snobism Make-up which is expressing selg-ostentation and eroticism with artificial nail and eyelash. 3. The humor appears to the Character Make-up copying the characters in doll plays, animation and juvenile story. In addition it is showed in Kitsch Make-up, which has vulagr, rustic and childish image by wearing so diffusive and cheap ornaments. 4. The Inhumanism is appeared in Graphic Make-up which is in the pursuit of the visual happiness. It includes simple geometrical type, drawing and coloring. It is also showed in Vampire Make-up, which means the make-up style mading horro, hizarrerie, and mistery by primary color(black and red) make-up. As the above, Neo-Avantgarde can account for the diversity and pluralism of contemporary make-up.