• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.361-370
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• 2005

This study was intended to investigate intertextuality expressed in fashion; intertextuality within fashion as sex, T.P.O., texture, and coordination and intertextuality between fashion and other genre like animation, music, film and technology. Intertextuality obtained by mixing the masculine and feminine text, coordinating various element without regarding T.P.O., texture has contributed to expending aesthetic realm and redefining the aesthetic value of traditional fashion design. The influence of animation, music, film on fashion and the interaction between these genre and fashion integrated high-class fashion and street-fashion, created the multicultural hybrid. Moreover according to the change of lifestyle the fashionable technical clothing was needed and developed. The intertextual tendency in the 21st-century fashion has given the new possibility of fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.58-73
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of men's wear designs unveiled while Hedi Slimane worked for Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. The study will analyze and focusing on the modernistic characteristics in order to discover the postmodernism trends in his works. The results of the research are as follows. First, Hedi Slimane's fashion style can be cited as grunge and punk due to the trend of expressing the subculture of postmodernism. The design features shown in Dior Homme were straight lines, leather, metallic materials and dark colors used to reinterpret a grungy punk style, romantic patterns, glossy materials, elastic leather, and bright colors were the salient features of Yves Saint Laurent. Second, the feature of cultural pluralism of postmodernism appeared as a type ethnic style. He presented this through the Third World images in the Dior Homme but Spanish matador images, Marrakech's images and North African images in the Yves Saint Laurent. Third, he feature of his style is metrosexual feminizing men's fashion and breaking up gender stereotypes. I-type and X-type silhouettes that emphasize the human body and feminine design motifs such as a skirt are dominated in Dior Homme, and he completed the metrosexual style by using materials, colors and patterns such as bright feminine pink, red, laces, fur, floral and leopard prints, as well as flagrantly expressing body contour.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.36-50
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• 2011

The traditional masculinity has been gradually diversified towards the 21th century due to a new social environment. Men embrace his feminine side with heightened aesthetic sense using cosmetic products for better skin, hair, and nails. This diversification of male image and his beauty style proves the addition of feminity to masculinity. C. G. Jung felt that we are all really bisexual in nature. The anima is the female aspect present in the collective unconscious of men and it is the archetype through which we communicate with the collective unconscious generally, and it is important to get into touch with it for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desire based on the anima archetype in the collective unconscious of men through the diversity of the gender identity shown in men's cosmetic advertisements, and therefore it aim to help developing a marketing strategy of male beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, it conducted an empirical analysis of male beauty style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian anima theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was typified as Retrosexual, Ubersexual, Metrosexual, Cross sexual. Second, the anima archetype stimulates feminity in male beauty style. Cross sexual type has the highest feminine tendency. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. Cross sexual type is most similar to the female beauty style. This feminization of male beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.37-56
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• 1999

In clothing, a tendency of Bisexuality is in case of wearing clothing of the opposite sex, the mixing of modeling principle and characteristic of man and woman, the exclusion characteristic of sexuality that present sexlessness-the third sex. They-Designer Gabrielle Chanel, YSL, Giorgio Armani-give characteristic of man's fashion to women's fashion. However, the consciousness in design is different. Chanel apply principle of man's suit to woman's wear to express authority and power about gender image, hereby she express women liberation and equality of man and woman based on social ideology through fashion especially, she express women's sexual independency and self assurance to her clothing. YSL express liberal and bold women that pursuit reasonal and liberal life in 1970. As he apply tailoed suit's rigidity to women's wear, he made 'pants look' universal in women's wear through“Dress for success”in modern life. Armani apply successful modern image to women's wear, so he express women's image of confident intellegent as well as feminine image. He focus women's new image as man living liberal and indivisual life excluding social category rather than will of equality of man and women. Gernreich break sexual prejudice and release women freely, furthermore, as he express concern of sexuality pursuit liberty of mankind surpassing sex distinction with women liberty. Gianni Versace pursuit mix and extinguishment of sexual image many-sided, and break fixed idea of sex, and reprovide feminine and masculine image. So his design tend homosexuality because he regard women's glamor and ostensible sexuality as standard of beauty, he apply this to man's wear as well as women's wear. With this, he expresses sensitive and liberal man's that break characteristic of Gender that symbolize power and authority in man's wear through 'Without ties'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2073-2084
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• 2010

This study provides references that can be applied to future suit design by analyzing the formative characteristics of modern men's and women's suits. Research on related literature and case studies were carried out simultaneously. A criterion for analyzing formative characteristics of suits was drawn up through an examination of past research. A total of 1,410 suit photographs that appeared in the U.S. edition of Vogue Magazine from 1985 to 2008 were analyzed in order to observe the formative characteristics of men's and women's suits. Research results showed that in the 1980s suits pursued a more comfortable and natural fit based on the original properties of simplicity, modernity, and practicality; in addition, women's suits had a tendency to use excessive shoulder pads due to the power-look influence. In the early 1990s exaggerated shoulders and boxy straight silhouettes were in fashion but towards the later years suit designs gradually started to fit the body and established a skinny versus slouch conflict. Women's suits gradually began to show more curvy body lines, and men's suits became more feminine on the surface in terms of color and material. In the 2000s suits have become more feminine and sensual than the 1990s, design focuses of both men's and women's suits moved to the waistline. Skinny and long styles became the ideal silhouette and differences between formative characteristics of the two genders decreased. Fashion elements of men's and women's suits are seen to have changed with a mutual intimate connection under the influence of a similar societal environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.231-250
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• 2014

This study considers types of design expression and examines aesthetic characteristics by analyzing images shown on clothes worn by Korean First Ladies. This study is to accumulate a fundamental database for the effective style coordination for images of First Ladies and future directions of clothing design. The types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, in terms of silhouette, H line and A line is generally represented on the silhouette of clothes; in addition, the H line is highly expressed on the silhouette. The keyword of images by design types are generally feminine, elegant on the silhouette of First Ladies' clothing, and represented a progressively more modernized image on the silhouette. Second, in terms of color, it is expressed diverse images on the color of First Ladies' clothing, and exceptionally the tendency of elegant image is highly charged on the color of clothes. This sort of tendency is influenced by the preferences of First Ladies; subsequently, most First Ladies wear their clothes with a high brightness and chroma. Third, in terms of materials, the image of elegant and simple is highly expressed through First Ladies' clothes and it is caused by choosing the clothes of a plain texture rather than a visible and fancy one. The aesthetic characteristics based on an analysis of the types of design expression on the clothes of Korean First Ladies are as follows. First, 'femininity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed by A line silhouette of a feminine curve and decorative effects. Second, 'simplicity' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed on the H line silhouette of a straight figure or through the solid colors of high chroma. Third, 'elegance' on First Ladies' clothes is represented on the silhouette of a restrained curve, long skirt hemlines, and woolen fabric with a neat, warm and soft coordination of colors. Forth, 'traditionality' on First Ladies' clothes is expressed through the application of materials and colors that influence culture, traditions, and detailed decorativeness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.117-129
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• 2015

This study is to find out the changes and features of male consumers' life style and purchase tendency according to the change of Korean fashion market, and based on which to suggest the design for the 20s men as well as a proper distribution channel for it. Documentary research and investigation were done together for the study. By reviewing documents focused on previous studies and declaring the change of men's fashion shopping tendencies and the following changes and features of their fashion sense and styles a conceptional frame for a design suggestion was presented. Ways to investigate were men's wear collection research, Q-technique. First of all, they tend to boldly reduce unnecessary purchases and do not hesitate to focus on the wanted item, expanding the trend of 'value purchase.' Secondly, men's wear use various design elements with feminine images, while the materials, colors and design expressive techniques that have been exclusively used for women's wear, began to be applied to men's one, turning them into gentle styles with womanhood is stressed. Thirdly, Korean distribution channel is rapidly diversified from departments to new-concept ones such as multi-brand stores. Especially, displaying and selling various optional products, multi-brand stores lead such diversification of fashion distribution channel. Fourthly, features of the drapery types favored by the 20s men are that they like no-chromed dark or blackish colors with fixed structure and partially-applied drapery on the clothes. Fifthly, it turns out that men in their 20s set a premium on design and price while they buy clothes. In addition to that, they buy clothes mainly during discount period and displayed much bigger satisfaction for the purchase on discounted price that those on normal price.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.501-511
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• 2012

This study examines the effect of structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the preferences for textile designing through analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements, and preferences. The 'knit structure' was determined to be the most important parameter in rating preferences, apart from the 'preference for cardigans'. Consumers preferred washable wool to normal wool when comparing a normal wool knit with a washable wool knit on a 'knit structure' factor. Preferred structural properties showed a similar tendency 'preference for fabric' and the 'preference for cardigans', 'preference for sweaters' and 'preference for vests'. The 'sophisticated/feminine' factor showed a correlation with 'fabric preference' and the texture and sensible images had a similar effect on fabric preferences. In the relationship between objective hand measurements and fabric preferences, the KOSHI value had a negative coefficient and the THV value had a positive correlation with fabric preferences. In conclusion, we found a consumer preference for more flexible fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.72-83
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the history of 20th century fashion and make-up culture, analyze trend of the modern fashion and make-up, creat a cyber make-up model according to themes and also it will find out how to use make-up as a part of fashion genre. As a result of this study is 1. Looking over change-process in 20th century fashion and make-up history, we can find the popular make-up color and pattern reflecting the society and cultural environments. And also make-up culture reflecting their sense of values and way of thinkings. 2. Analyzing fashion and make up color trend of 2002 F/W, we can find a similarity between fashion and make-up color trend by comparing with hue&tone chart. All of theme have a tendency to be natural, veiled, feminine by neutral color and artifical highlighted, illuminate, transparant by clear-high saturation color. 3. Creating imagemaps, color palletes and cyber model of 4 trend themes by computer graphic, It can give more visual and interesting effect on the cyber space, and also it can help to expect make-up will be dizitalized, visualized and informationalized.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.470-480
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• 2003

This study looks upon the borderless phenomenon of genres and at the disintegration of boundaries in fashion, the current 'borderless trend', and analyze modern men's fashion having borderless phenomenon under social changes and disclose current men's fashion. The borderless phenomenon of men's fashion declines traditional image of gender and expresses modern men's images strongly in accordance with social changes: Thus, in modern days, men's images have changed from muscular men having show-off and superiority to women-like men having pearly skin and slender figure. Men's fashion also looked for feminization to let men like make-up, beauty salon, cosmetic surgery and women-like hair style, etc. Men have been also given women's sexy and sensual beauty to put on innerwear as an outerwearization. The Influx and mixing of mutually different cultures is expressed in Hippie, Ethnic, Oriental trends. Mutually opposing country's factors mix so that a new culture is established. Also, the sharing of fashions amongst younger and older generation has occurred for reasons that are similar to the reasons above.