• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.67-81
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• 2004

This research demonstrates clothing consumption values, fashion preferences of career women from the early 1920s to late 1930s. And having thorough understanding of values and preferences, allows us to establish marketing strategies for clothing companies. The main purpose of this study is (1) to formalize consumer group based upon the clothing consumption values, (2) to find for characteristics of consumer depending on classification of consumption value in clothing, (3) to understand the preferences of career women about fashion trends. Analyzing data was performed 292 copies, resulting factor analysis, Cluster analysis, X-test, Anova, Tukey test, t-test, frequency analysis, and reliability analysis. This paper showed 7 distinctive characteristics of career women about clothing consumption value. These characteristics can be listed as 1) value of brand image, 2) value of self-expression, 3) functional values, 4) epistemic values, 5) coordination values, 6) social values 7) psychological values. Importantly, brand image value became most significant aspects among 7 factors. Analyzing consumers based upon stated 7 factors, it was found that they are segregated into 4 groups; Self-expressive Group, Psychological Stability Group, Functional Group, Social Group. Secondly, for fashion trend preferences, self-expressive group, psychological stability group, and functional group favored Romantic Feminine Style respectively. Social Group showed preference in Nu-Basic'. The reason for such trend dealt with fabric materials and colors. Finally examining population statistics, younger generations showed more preferences in Nu-Basic', and consumers from ages of 26 to 28, 32 to 34 showed preferences in Romantic Feminine' regardless of their household income, clothing related expenditures, jobs, and education level. On the other hand, 'Modem Classic' was popular among college graduates and 'Paradise' was somewhat less popular among all ages except from ages of 32 to 34, consumers consumption 300,000Won to 400,000Won on clothing related expenditures. And 'Energy' seemed to attract more highly educated females, who had more than masters in degrees with over 300,000 to 400,000Won for clothing related expenditures.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.21-35
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the preference of image for modern application of Korean traditional patterns. A survey was conducted using the randomly selected 292 undergraduate women students of Taegu city. The degree of interest and preference in Korean traditional style or something like that had measured by 5 scale method. And then they had two groups which are interest/non-interest group, and preference/non-preference group in Korean traditional style. Also, preference of Korean traditional patterns was measured by 5 scale method. The image of Korean traditional patterns consisted of semantic differential scales. Analysis was by frequency, percentage, and mean. For difference of groups analysis was by t-test. The results were as follows:1. For the survey, 53.8% showed the interest and 40.4% did the preference for the traditional patterns. There was the positive correlation(0.782) between the degree of the interest and preference. 2. Among twenty traditional patterns, the patterns of plants and nature were very preferred, but the patterns of geometrical things was not preferred. 3. For the nature pattern, the image seemed to be elegant and feminine(womanly). For the plant pattern, the image seemed to be feminine, neat, weak, light and mild. For the animal pattern, the image seemed to be heavy, gorgeous, deluxe, virile(manly), strong and active. Last, for the geometrical pattern, the image seemed to be elegant, deluxe, rigid and strong. 4. Between the interest／non­interest groups, there was the significant difference in pattern of cloud, mountain, lotus flower, plum blossoms, orchid, dragon, chinese phoenix and bogy. Especially, for the orchid pattern, the preference difference between these groups was large. 5. For the plant pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the elegant-rustic image. Especially, the interest group evaluated as the elegant image. 6. Between the preference／non­preference groups, there was the strongly significant difference in the preference for the orchid pattern. 7. For the geometrical pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the mild­cold image. Especially, the preference groups evaluated as the cold image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.36-50
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• 2011

The traditional masculinity has been gradually diversified towards the 21th century due to a new social environment. Men embrace his feminine side with heightened aesthetic sense using cosmetic products for better skin, hair, and nails. This diversification of male image and his beauty style proves the addition of feminity to masculinity. C. G. Jung felt that we are all really bisexual in nature. The anima is the female aspect present in the collective unconscious of men and it is the archetype through which we communicate with the collective unconscious generally, and it is important to get into touch with it for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desire based on the anima archetype in the collective unconscious of men through the diversity of the gender identity shown in men's cosmetic advertisements, and therefore it aim to help developing a marketing strategy of male beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, it conducted an empirical analysis of male beauty style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian anima theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was typified as Retrosexual, Ubersexual, Metrosexual, Cross sexual. Second, the anima archetype stimulates feminity in male beauty style. Cross sexual type has the highest feminine tendency. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. Cross sexual type is most similar to the female beauty style. This feminization of male beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.37-56
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• 1999

In clothing, a tendency of Bisexuality is in case of wearing clothing of the opposite sex, the mixing of modeling principle and characteristic of man and woman, the exclusion characteristic of sexuality that present sexlessness-the third sex. They-Designer Gabrielle Chanel, YSL, Giorgio Armani-give characteristic of man's fashion to women's fashion. However, the consciousness in design is different. Chanel apply principle of man's suit to woman's wear to express authority and power about gender image, hereby she express women liberation and equality of man and woman based on social ideology through fashion especially, she express women's sexual independency and self assurance to her clothing. YSL express liberal and bold women that pursuit reasonal and liberal life in 1970. As he apply tailoed suit's rigidity to women's wear, he made 'pants look' universal in women's wear through“Dress for success”in modern life. Armani apply successful modern image to women's wear, so he express women's image of confident intellegent as well as feminine image. He focus women's new image as man living liberal and indivisual life excluding social category rather than will of equality of man and women. Gernreich break sexual prejudice and release women freely, furthermore, as he express concern of sexuality pursuit liberty of mankind surpassing sex distinction with women liberty. Gianni Versace pursuit mix and extinguishment of sexual image many-sided, and break fixed idea of sex, and reprovide feminine and masculine image. So his design tend homosexuality because he regard women's glamor and ostensible sexuality as standard of beauty, he apply this to man's wear as well as women's wear. With this, he expresses sensitive and liberal man's that break characteristic of Gender that symbolize power and authority in man's wear through 'Without ties'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2073-2084
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• 2010

This study provides references that can be applied to future suit design by analyzing the formative characteristics of modern men's and women's suits. Research on related literature and case studies were carried out simultaneously. A criterion for analyzing formative characteristics of suits was drawn up through an examination of past research. A total of 1,410 suit photographs that appeared in the U.S. edition of Vogue Magazine from 1985 to 2008 were analyzed in order to observe the formative characteristics of men's and women's suits. Research results showed that in the 1980s suits pursued a more comfortable and natural fit based on the original properties of simplicity, modernity, and practicality; in addition, women's suits had a tendency to use excessive shoulder pads due to the power-look influence. In the early 1990s exaggerated shoulders and boxy straight silhouettes were in fashion but towards the later years suit designs gradually started to fit the body and established a skinny versus slouch conflict. Women's suits gradually began to show more curvy body lines, and men's suits became more feminine on the surface in terms of color and material. In the 2000s suits have become more feminine and sensual than the 1990s, design focuses of both men's and women's suits moved to the waistline. Skinny and long styles became the ideal silhouette and differences between formative characteristics of the two genders decreased. Fashion elements of men's and women's suits are seen to have changed with a mutual intimate connection under the influence of a similar societal environment.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.799-807
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• 2009

When analyzing make-up trends of figures shown in portraits of different eras in Chinese painting history, you can see that red color was used much. This can be because the red color is the most outstanding among all the colors and was most preferred by ancient people, as the color of the sun, the blood, and the sacredness. The women in the Tang Dynasty was especially using the red color much. Though Seongrihak (Neo-Confucianism) in Song Dynasty was the governing ideology, it had an influence even upon its aesthetics. Thus, during Song Dynasty, the beauty of logos appeared too. This phenomenon showed a conservative tendency even in make-up as well as in costume, thereby the concept of clear and elegant beauty was emphasized. The real figure in the Ming and Ching Dynasty, was so young and weak as a sample of a delicate woman that a woman who had feminine beauty was regarded as an ideal type. The feminine image had been gradually generalized from the literary works in the latter half of Ming Dynasty. However, the painters in the era still preferred the beauty of a healthy woman. That tendency probably had an influence even upon make-up culture that was shown in portrait. As an analysis result of make-up culture in Chinese portrait paintings, it reveals that ancient make-up trends much reflected the social and cultural phenomena of the periods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.947-959
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• 2009

This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.49-61
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• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.382-396
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.11-25
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• 2008

John William Waterhouse (1849-1917) is a painter renown for his romantic beautiful femme fatale images in the late 19th century in England. The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion in Waterhouse's femme fatale images. Waterhouse displays the devilism of femme fatale by the symbols of a wicked woman. He emphasized how wicked she is by means of water such as lake, river, and sea as well as symbols associated with demons such as forest, cave, naked woman, long hair, a monster-headed woman looking like an animal, water lily, and garden. On the other hand, he illustrates the woman's style as an image of a typical feminine beauty. Expressing naturally a fine-curved, immature girl's body with marvel-like white and clear skin in a kneeling down or crouching passive rose and depicting it as an innocent and fragile feminine image, he created a passive and lovely image of a young girl. With her eminent beauty and sex appeals, she lured men into danger. Words such as evil, women, and death had been used in describing her as femme fatale to emphasize her wickedness as well as to deliver the meaning across from the inside and to the outside. They also described her as a type of woman with body posture and fashion corresponding to the sexual ideology during the Victorian Age. His description of this fashion image was to show that femme fatale's fashion, which represents attraction and fatality, does not necessarily translate to an active fashion style that emphasizes sensuality. It also tends to minimize resistance and feelings of being threatened. Therefore, it allons us to acknowledge that even girlish body with innocent and frail-looking fashion can be a form of femme fatale, and that fashion styles is essential in forming the image of femininity.