• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.114-117
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• 2016

It is recognized that the global apparel market of the twenty-first century is largely profit driven, and that the majority of producers and retailers have sourced products from the lowest cost locations. Purchase tickets of fashion goods available from 'fast' fashion retailers (at least within the UK) refrain from providing the consumer with details of the full circumstances of production. It seems that the majority of major retailers and producers are not willing to engage in levels of self-regulation which could ensure that the products offered to consumers are ethically produced and offer acceptable levels of sustainability. Meanwhile many fashion consumers have the desire to purchase sustainable products, produced ethically by workers paid fair wages in safe working environments. Consumer demand could be a powerful tool to adjust the behaviour of manufacturers and buyers. This paper proposes the introduction of international legislation demanding greater degrees of transparency than exist currently and that the full sourcing and production details of fashion products are stated clearly on the product's purchase ticket within its retail setting. With the introduction of such legislation, consumers could thus be given the opportunity of purchasing goods which they feel accommodate their own views on ethical manufacture and sustainable products. In turn, consumer pressure could ensure indirectly that retail buyers consider all ethical and sustainable aspects of production when negotiating with garment producers/suppliers. Further to this, such a negotiating stance could ensure the improvement of the terms and conditions of employment of the numerous garment workers worldwide.

• Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.163-179
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• 2010

Recentlythe concept of fast fashion is drawing attention as customer needs are diversified and supply lead time is getting shorter in fashion industry. It is emphasized as one of the critical success factors in the fashion industry how quickly and efficiently to satisfy the customer needs as the competition has intensified. Because the fast fashion is inherently susceptible to trend, it is very important for fashion retailers to make quick decisions regarding items to launch, quantity based on demand prediction, and the time to respond. Also the planning decisions must be executed through the business processes of procurement, production, and logistics in real time. In order to adapt to this trend, the fashion industry urgently needs supports from intelligent quick response(QR) system. However, the traditional functions of QR systems have not been able to completely satisfy such demands of the fast fashion industry. This paper proposes an intelligent quick response system for the fast fashion(IQRS-FF). Presented are models for QR process, QR principles and execution, and QR quantity and timing computation. IQRS-FF models support the decision makers by providing useful information with automated and rule-based algorithms. If the predefined conditions of a rule are satisfied, the actions defined in the rule are automatically taken or informed to the decision makers. In IQRS-FF, QRdecisions are made in two stages: pre-season and in-season. In pre-season, firstly master demand prediction is performed based on the macro level analysis such as local and global economy, fashion trends and competitors. The prediction proceeds to the master production and procurement planning. Checking availability and delivery of materials for production, decision makers must make reservations or request procurements. For the outsourcing materials, they must check the availability and capacity of partners. By the master plans, the performance of the QR during the in-season is greatly enhanced and the decision to select the QR items is made fully considering the availability of materials in warehouse as well as partners' capacity. During in-season, the decision makers must find the right time to QR as the actual sales occur in stores. Then they are to decide items to QRbased not only on the qualitative criteria such as opinions from sales persons but also on the quantitative criteria such as sales volume, the recent sales trend, inventory level, the remaining period, the forecast for the remaining period, and competitors' performance. To calculate QR quantity in IQRS-FF, two calculation methods are designed: QR Index based calculation and attribute similarity based calculation using demographic cluster. In the early period of a new season, the attribute similarity based QR amount calculation is better used because there are not enough historical sales data. By analyzing sales trends of the categories or items that have similar attributes, QR quantity can be computed. On the other hand, in case of having enough information to analyze the sales trends or forecasting, the QR Index based calculation method can be used. Having defined the models for decision making for QR, we design KPIs(Key Performance Indicators) to test the reliability of the models in critical decision makings: the difference of sales volumebetween QR items and non-QR items; the accuracy rate of QR the lead-time spent on QR decision-making. To verify the effectiveness and practicality of the proposed models, a case study has been performed for a representative fashion company which recently developed and launched the IQRS-FF. The case study shows that the average sales rateof QR items increased by 15%, the differences in sales rate between QR items and non-QR items increased by 10%, the QR accuracy was 70%, the lead time for QR dramatically decreased from 120 hours to 8 hours.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.61-71
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was first, to examine the causes for the recent acceleration in the increase of textile/apparel waste and the current practices for reducing waste in the global textile and apparel industry; and second, to explore the influence of sustainability and social responsibility on fashion trends. Extensive literature on sustainable apparel and sustainable and socially responsible practices by global textile and apparel firms was reviewed in conducting this research. First, an accelerated fashion diffosion speed due to fast fashion was focused on as a cause for the increase in textile/apparel waste whereas mass customization was focused on as a potential solution for reducing waste. Then, the influence of the social trend toward sustainability and social responsibility on fashion trends was discussed, particularly the trends toward green products and recycled fashion, the trend against using real for or leather, and minimum-fabric-waste fashion in design and product development. This study furthers consumers' understanding of sustainability and social responsibility related to fashion trends and hopefully increases their consciousness in becoming socially responsible consumers. This study will also contribute to better decision-making in apparel and textile firms to produce sustainable fashion products.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.803-809
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• 2006

Korean traditional paper 'Hanji' made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree is a good handicraft material because of its high viscosity, durability, dyeability, toughness, flexibility, plasticity, and manipulability. Hanji has been used as a textile material such as cotton wool for protection and keeping us warm from cold weather. However, Hanji has many limitations, while other textile materials have many advantages of such as washability, being sunproof, and fast coloring. The purpose of this study is to review physical properties, formation ability, and dyeability of Hanji as a material of fashion accessary. The contents of this study are composed of 5 parts: 1. To introduce the necessities of this study, 2. To review a historical background of Hanji and to identify its physical characteristics as a fashion accessary material, 3. To review and to compare techniques such as bonding, quilting, knitting, creasing and holding, twisting, folding & braiding, paper pasting, coloring & cutting, and outwashing(?) in making Hanji fashion accessaries, 4. To review dyeing and finishing techniques to increase commercial value, 5. To identify the best fashion accessary materials made of Hanji. The most important characteristics of Hanji as a fashion accessary material are its toughness in a wet state, fast color fixing, and flexibility. Especially weaving and knitting are considered as the most desirable techniques to make fashion accessary products stronger and more practical.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.19-29
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• 2004

The current fashion market is experiencing a lot of difficulties in fashion forecasting due to consumers' fast-changing lifestyle on fashion, changes in consumer behavior, and the segmentation of the fashion market. To cope with this harsh reality, many fashion enterprises have paid much attention to the SPA (Specialty Retailer's Store of Private Label Apparel) brand as a promising fashion marketing strategy in terms of which they can survive in the extremely competing fashion market. The SPA brand is in the stage of inception in Korea, but the SPA brands such as MUJI and UNIQLO are already dominating the fashion business in Japan. Korea has just started developing the SPA brand, but its technological development, which was triggered by the success of 'BASIC HOUSE', is rapidly evolving. Under these circumstances, the SPA brand is getting vital for the fashion market in efficiently realizing consumers' requirements, revolutionizing the method for providing product information and the process of Marketing Mix Program, and expressing the value of shop. This paper studies the nature of the SPA brand and fashion merchandising system, and in turn examine the differences between the visual merchandising of the existing fashion brands and the Japanese SPA brands that are used as the fashion marketing strategy which is driven by the up-to-date technological system. Centering around these issues, we propose a visual merchandising system for fashion enterprises which serves to develop Korean-style SPA brands.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 2017

Fashion professionals these days agree that changes in the fashion business are essential and highly value creativity as a genuine source for generating new ideas in fashion products as well as fashion business practices. As fashion professionals deal with problems of which solutions do not exist or that need innovative solutions for brand or product differentiation in the fast-paced environments, interest in creativity and creative problem solving in the field has increased; therefore, fashion educators have realized that there has been an increasing need for incorporating creativity or creative problem solving into the fashion curriculum. In this study, the researcher intended to review previous research on the use of creative problem solving in classrooms in various disciplines including the field of fashion education to provide insights and suggestions for fashion educators to integrate creative problem solving into the fashion education curriculum. Previous attempts to apply creative problem solving to solve issues in fashion classrooms have mostly limited to promoting divergent thinking techniques. It is suggested for fashion educators as well as fashion students to consider creative problem solving as a process consisting of the four distinct stages in which both divergent and convergent thinking techniques should be properly utilized stimulating various thinking strategies.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.40-51
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• 2018

Sustainability is an important topic within a variety of design areas, including fashion. The 'fast fashion' behavior of consumers is one of the big challenges that sustainable living faces. For the fashion industry, sustainability can be seen as a regulating ethos for higher quality and longer-lasting products, which I argue as embodying an intersection between sustainability and luxury. This study establishes a conceptual model for 'sustainable luxury' that can be implemented as a guide in the fashion design industry and education field. This paper will focus particularly on craft-based fashion within the industry. Through conceptual analysis and case studies, I analyze sustainable luxury through the scope of Soper's (2007) 'alternative hedonism', linking hedonic and selfidentity values as a foundation for the acceptance of and continued drive toward more sustainable luxury products. Unlike other studies which only emphasize the ecological and environmental aspects of sustainability, viz. green/eco design, this study explores sustainability as balanced with its four dimensions: environmental, economic, social, and cultural. Case studies will exemplify this redefined notion of sustainable luxury.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.708-725
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• 2018

The advancement of digital technology has made changes in the fashion system and trend development process inevitable. This article clarifies changes in the modern fashion industry system and the causes of comprehensive changes that result from the development of digital technology. The methodology of this study is based on literature and case studies based on the information magazine most used by fashion industry workers. This study classifies fashion systems into 5 types and 14 types in detail. The study results indicate the way to change the fashion style trend schedule per year, fast/ultrafast fashion system, fashion rental system, DTC system and change of fashion system by consumer participation. The causes of the changes in fashion system are indicated that an increase of trend sensitivity due to an increase in the diffusion rate of information, expansion of expression of personality through digital network, increase of possibility of grouping of small number of tastes and change of prosumer possible changes in the environment. This study provides basic data on fashion system research and the construction of an appropriate response strategy for a changing environment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.65-75
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• 2013

As a typical subculture, Goth exercises influence on our culture in broad areas. Features of Gothic style, such as dark aesthetics, images of death and fear, and erotic horrification, emerged as attractive themes to contemporary fashion designs. Based on the dark attraction of black color, Goth fashion creates mysterious and fantastic atmosphere as well as grotesque and horrifying mood. 'Hallyu' or Korean wave is a term to describe the phenomenon of fervently loving Korean popular culture. As the fast spreading Hallyu is strongly engraved through the visually conspicuous fashion, we can say that fashion plays important role in diffusing Hallyu. In addition, a number of analyses and researches on the Hallyu, including K-pop, have been conducted, while concentrating keen interest in fashion of Hallyu K-pop stars. Accordingly, this study is designed to examine relations between fashion of K-pop stars and Goth fashion after analyzing features of Hallyu and K-pop and contemplating Goth fashion. Namely, this study will analyze various Goth images shown in K-pop fashion, which is the core of Hallyu, and identify aesthetic features of Goth shown in the fashion of K-pop stars. An investigation and analysis of the Goth images shown in the fashion of K-pop stars identifies the following features : a black aesthetic, eroticism, defiance, reversal of gender identity, and mystery.