• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1103-1113
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• 2009

Now in the 21st century, all the industries in our world are rapidly changing, including fashion trends and customers' needs as well. Fashion textile planning is also developing towards the direction where it could satisfy the merged sensitivity and incentive of the customers through an idea. The purpose of this study is to accentuate the importance of fashion material planning in fitting conventional patterns and eco-benign fabric materials. Accordingly, this study is mainly focused on the reflection of fabric planning characteristics to show tradition containing comfort and naturalness. As mixing with established fabrics and blending with natural/functional fabrics, and conforming to the trend of the seasonal fabric, it has developed a new structure and pattern by changing the basic source of traditional patterns to a computer aided design system. Therefore, four different types of items were basically up-graded by fitting it in with traditional patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.296-306
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• 1999

This study reflects the aim of analyzing the fashion design connection with ecology. Ecology has been linked to human life through its changing relations with environment. In order to recover eco-system ecology-nature oriented methodology and technology oriented approach will suffice. On the modern design field Green design Recycling and Green marketing resulted in increasing rates of environment-friendly production and an effort to deliver environment-friendly corporate image. Based on above research ecological image on fashion design during the year 1990 to 1995 represents the following conclusion. In the fashion design field natural image primitive image nature -harmonious image material-recyling image culture-recycling image are proposed. In the technology field clean image and high-tech image are proposed. In the marketing field happy image harmonious image serious image and realistic image are proposed.

• Journal of Intelligence and Information Systems
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.163-179
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• 2010

Recentlythe concept of fast fashion is drawing attention as customer needs are diversified and supply lead time is getting shorter in fashion industry. It is emphasized as one of the critical success factors in the fashion industry how quickly and efficiently to satisfy the customer needs as the competition has intensified. Because the fast fashion is inherently susceptible to trend, it is very important for fashion retailers to make quick decisions regarding items to launch, quantity based on demand prediction, and the time to respond. Also the planning decisions must be executed through the business processes of procurement, production, and logistics in real time. In order to adapt to this trend, the fashion industry urgently needs supports from intelligent quick response(QR) system. However, the traditional functions of QR systems have not been able to completely satisfy such demands of the fast fashion industry. This paper proposes an intelligent quick response system for the fast fashion(IQRS-FF). Presented are models for QR process, QR principles and execution, and QR quantity and timing computation. IQRS-FF models support the decision makers by providing useful information with automated and rule-based algorithms. If the predefined conditions of a rule are satisfied, the actions defined in the rule are automatically taken or informed to the decision makers. In IQRS-FF, QRdecisions are made in two stages: pre-season and in-season. In pre-season, firstly master demand prediction is performed based on the macro level analysis such as local and global economy, fashion trends and competitors. The prediction proceeds to the master production and procurement planning. Checking availability and delivery of materials for production, decision makers must make reservations or request procurements. For the outsourcing materials, they must check the availability and capacity of partners. By the master plans, the performance of the QR during the in-season is greatly enhanced and the decision to select the QR items is made fully considering the availability of materials in warehouse as well as partners' capacity. During in-season, the decision makers must find the right time to QR as the actual sales occur in stores. Then they are to decide items to QRbased not only on the qualitative criteria such as opinions from sales persons but also on the quantitative criteria such as sales volume, the recent sales trend, inventory level, the remaining period, the forecast for the remaining period, and competitors' performance. To calculate QR quantity in IQRS-FF, two calculation methods are designed: QR Index based calculation and attribute similarity based calculation using demographic cluster. In the early period of a new season, the attribute similarity based QR amount calculation is better used because there are not enough historical sales data. By analyzing sales trends of the categories or items that have similar attributes, QR quantity can be computed. On the other hand, in case of having enough information to analyze the sales trends or forecasting, the QR Index based calculation method can be used. Having defined the models for decision making for QR, we design KPIs(Key Performance Indicators) to test the reliability of the models in critical decision makings: the difference of sales volumebetween QR items and non-QR items; the accuracy rate of QR the lead-time spent on QR decision-making. To verify the effectiveness and practicality of the proposed models, a case study has been performed for a representative fashion company which recently developed and launched the IQRS-FF. The case study shows that the average sales rateof QR items increased by 15%, the differences in sales rate between QR items and non-QR items increased by 10%, the QR accuracy was 70%, the lead time for QR dramatically decreased from 120 hours to 8 hours.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.2
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• pp.32-44
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• 2016

Having set a trend for luxury fashion brand markets since the $17^{th}$ century, France has established the norms and the forms of the fashion business. In addition, it has maintained its status as a leading fashion power by discovering economic value from the intangible value of design and brand, and developing fashion into a high value-added industry. This paper aims to examine the socio-cultural factors that have exerted a positive influence on the formation of "fashion power" in France from a historical perspective. It will focus on four major external historical factors that made France the top fashion power: insights and innovation of French leaders as well as their constant concerns and efforts for the promotion of fashion, a tradition of experimental cultures and arts, open and the public-centered social environment and an atmosphere of cherishing the values of creation, and the establishment of a legitimate system that protects them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1275-1287
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• 2006

This was to confirm the Web-SFAS and street Fashion trend 2005. Korea women's street fashion in 2005 S/S was analyzed by using the Web-SFAS(Street Fashion Analysis System) that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total 270 women who were sensitive to the fashion were surveyed around in 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone is shown as follows: 1. The sequence of care with most interest in producing fashionable shape is in the order of clothes>accessory>hair style>make up>shoes, and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone is to meet with friends than shopping. 2. Most preferred item for tops were shirts and T-shirts, while for bottoms were blue jeans of denim material in various colors and designs. The color had the clear winner in white color with the pink or yellow line of colors preferred in all commercial zones. The blue jeans and skirt items were the most dominant with the preference on the blue color. The color and image were diversely favored with light, natural, modern, elegance and warm images. 3. The semi-formal image was preferred in women's street fashion, 2005 S/S in Apgujeong-dong, Hapseong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongik University area, Dongseong-ro, and the active comfort casual image was preferred by womens in Seo-myeon, Nampo-dong and Sangnam-dong. However the retro image were represented in Daehak-ro specially. The tendency of street fashion for women had the difference of their own trends for each commercial zone, rather then the regional differences for each city with the conspicuous preference of color for the items.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.29-45
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• 2010

In order to provide more systematic approach to analyze fabric trends and to develop fabrics accordingly, ecology fabric trend from 1986 to 2005 was analyzed related with fabric trend themes and fabric attributes. The result shows that in the 1980s, natural theme appeared, followed by primitive theme and imitated natural theme until the mid 1990s. From the late 1990s to the early 2000s, new natural theme appeared, followed by eco-friendly theme, and then recycling theme. In the natural theme, 'clean' was the most important fabric attribute and 'textured' and 'worn' were important fabric attributes in the primitive theme. In the imitated natural theme, 'wet' fabric attribute was preferred. In the new natural theme, 'lightweight' were preferred. The results of this study empirically demonstrated that abstract and ambiguous trend terms can be interpreted with a physical, substantial, and feasible attributes that fabric practitioners can easily understand.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.79-92
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• 2013

This article explores 1940's fashion. Much has been documented about the huge influence Dior's 1947 New Look had on fashionable clothing, as the industry conspired to reinvent itself as an economic and cultural power after World War II. The introduction of highly feminised and luxurious styles reinstated fashion as a viable concern globally and has arguably been recognised as the defining style of the 1940's. During World War II the fashion system of design, manufacture and export within the western world, virtually ceased. Many dress historians (Arnold, 2008; Breward, 1997; Guenther, 2004; McDowell, 1997; Robinson, 1976; Taylor, 1992; Steele, 1998; Veillon, 2002; Walford, 2008; Wilson & Taylor; 1989) have suggested that fashion ideas froze from 1939 to 1947. Deeper research identifies that during this period of style and trend starvation, many diverse and interesting design ideas arose from the restrictions imposed and Veillon (2002, p.145), has suggested that this period instigated what we now identify as Street Style (Polhemus, 2010). This research investigates the diversity of design ideas produced between 1939-1947 in order to establish whether pre or post 1947 can be upheld as the definitive 1940's look, one that influences contemporary fashion designers and one that we identify with as a conclusive style today.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.359-362
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• 2009

This study investigates the behavior of water vapor permeability of a layered system to find out a comfortable combination of a layered system for outdoor activities and examines the water vapor permeability of various types of outdoor clothing fabrics. The layered system includes the base layer such as sportswool and polyester/cotton fabrics, the middle layer such as single and double sided fleece fabrics, and the shell layer such as polyurethane-coated, PTFE-laminated and microfiber fabrics in this experiment. Results show that the layered system was applied, it was working together as a whole having some influence on each other layer, though every layer offered varying degree of water vapor permeability. Water vapor permeability of layered system exactly followed the same trend as the shell layer, which is all vapor permeable water repellent fabrics as a single layer. The rate of water vapor transfer through a layered system is mainly related to the type of vapor permeable water repellent fabrics used for the shell layer.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.109-118
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• 2013

Fashion icons of 21st century are not only the fashion leaders that show fashion trend but also the typical fashion signs or symbols that show visually changes in sensibility trends. The purpose of this study was to analyze the framework of 21st century fashion by the public to recognize through these changes. In this study, the background of the occurrence of various 21st century fashion icons and their characteristics were investigated and the changes of revealed features and symbolic meanings were examined compared with them of 20th century. The 24 celebrities which have been called as the bests of fashion icons since year 2000 were selected by searching the most popular search engines such as daum, yahoo and google, and 13 of them were picked as the highest in preference and awareness by surveying 50 students majoring in fashion. And then their fashion styles, backgrounds, and influence on the public fashion were studied. As a result, the 21st century fashion icons reflecting the cultural characteristics such as convergence and exaggeration and the sensitivities of fusion, collaboration, hybrid sensibility in art were powerful enough to create innovative styles destroying the era and the standard. Their styles have constantly created new looks. The exposed new individual sensitivities on media-fusion of two or more sensibility and coordination techniques without being tied to the existing anchorage system-were as influential as high fashion and leaded the imitation and reproduction by dazzling the public. As the media become more powerful, the influence of fashion icons interacted more closely with the public and has been evolved through the sensitivity of the reversal, cultural, economic, visual, or temporal fusions. To sum up, it is shown that the outstanding fashion styles suggested by the leading fashion designers have approach to the public more closely by the fashion icons.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.11 s.158
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• pp.1519-1530
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• 2006

This study has surveyed and analyzed in 2005 S/S domestic men's street fashion by using the Web-SFAS system that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total of 270 men who were sensitive to fashion were surveyed around 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone was shown as follows. 1. The most interest in producing fashionable shape when they go out was in the order of clothes>hair style>shoes and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone was to meet with friends>watching movies>shopping etc. 2. T-shirts were most preferred as upper garments and as for bottoms, blue jeans were preferred. Black, gray, and white colors were most preferred and blue color was most preferred primarily due to the preference for blue jeans. The color image was proven mainly modem and light tone, comfortable and casual items were preferred. An active comfort casual image emphasized with activeness by coordinating comfortable T-shirts or shirts with blue jeans were most preferred in 9 areas. 3. A clear difference was confirmed in color by commercial area. Blackish color was most prevalent in Daehakro whereas simple color was mostly shown around Hongik University area. Bright and unique colors such as green and violate were dominant at Dae-Gu Dongseongro, and basic colors such as white and black were preferred in Masan Hapseong-dong and Changwon Sangnam-dong. Through the results of nationwide street fashion survey, the each commercial zone has unique characteristics in fashion trend even in the same city, rather than the regional difference in Seoul and local city.