This study suggests a new paradigm of fashion merchandising as an environmental change of the fashion industry. The study has the pattern of a literature study and it is analyzed through journals, professional books, fashion magazines, and newspapers. Examined are the environmental changes of the fashion industry, the condition, and problems of the merchandising process that is executed currently, as well as an examination of the concept of fashion merchandising, Concepts and changes for new fashion merchandising strategies are suggested that are helpful for academics and fashion companies. This paper defines the concept of new fashion merchandising as the integrated management activity of planning, development, and selling fashion products to create a profit for the company with the satisfaction of the target customers. This study proposes the pursuance of integrated merchandising, the change of product planning and product development, and the strengthening of store-centered retail merchandising in order to change the direction of fashion merchandising.
The purpose of this research is to identify the phases of the fashion merchandising process and the range of the fashion designer's work as well as performing degree at each stage according to the brand types of domestic women's apparel. The preliminary research was conducted with the chief designers of five woman's apparel manufactures located in Seoul and the questionnaires were collected from 192 fashion designers. They were measured by the five point Likert-type scales. For a data analysis, the Pearson's Correlation, ANOVA, Sheffe Test, MANOVA were used with SPSS V. 11.0. The results are as follows; 1. The steps which fashion designers of domestic apparel brand take in fashion merchandising process have been identified in 7 stages- Environment Information, Target Market Planning, Design Planning, Design Development, Price Settlement, Presentation & Line Release, Production. 2. The task achievement level of fashion designers in fashion merchandising process differs in brand types as well as in fashion merchandising stages. In NB, the designer's work was conducted in order of Design Planning(M=4.58)$\to$Presentation & Line release(M=4.31)$\to$ Environment Information(M=3.83)$\to$Target Market Planning(M=3.13). In DB, in order of Price Settlement (M=4.80)$\to$Production(M=4.33)$\to$Design Development(M=4.27)$\to$Design Planning(M=3.77)$\to$Presentation & Line release(M=3.20)$\to$Environment Information (M2.70). In GB, in order of Production(M=4.38)$\to$Design Planning(M=4.22)$\to$Price Settlement(M4.16)$\to$Environment Information(M=3.83)$\to$Merchandising Target Market (M=3.72)$\to$Design Development(M=3.65). 3. Considering the other factors such as sales, the amount of owning shops, item amounts that are related to the company size, this study shows that only the brand type affects designer's task achievement.
For comprehending the duties of fashion designer, Sharon(1989) has suggested to look at the procedure how the goods are being produced. The purpose of this research is to identify the task of domestic fashion designer by comparing and analyzing one's work range and performing level in the fashion merchandising process according to the brand types which one is involved in. The preliminary research for the questionnaire was conducted with 5 chief designers of woman's apparel manufactures in Seoul. They were asked to judge if designer's tasks fit to their carry-out operations in the pre-fixed questionnaire which had been done based on preliminary researches and literatures related with fashion merchandising process. The contents of research questionnaire are 11 questions to understand the general characteristics of companies and the participated subjects, and 42 questions to understand the designers' operations. For the selection of NB, among 503 domestic female apparel brands that were in 'Korean Textile Fashion yearbook (2002-2003), the companies that were located in Seoul and possible for cooperation by researcher's personal relationship were selected. For DB, cooperation was requested for brands that were located in Seoul among the 137 brands that participates on Domestic Collection. For GB, 50 stores were selected at random or by personal relationship among 32 GB shops such as Freya Town, Doosan Tower, New Zone, and so on. Total 300 questionnaire distributed to the designers, 192 copies were used for final data analysis. For data analysis, descriptive statistics and ANOVA, Sceffe test were used using SPSS V. 11 1. The participated fashion designers operated 41 categories of suggested 42 categories in the fashion merchandising process. 2. The ranges and contents of tasks in the fashion merchandising process that fashion designers mainly carry-out are very different according to the brand types and showed much different level of task carry-out. Only in the categories of 'fashion trend information' and 'design ideation', all three brand type showed the highest level of task performance. And the design related tasks presented common higher level of performance than the other tasks in all brand types. In order to comprehend the operation of fashion designer, various approaching methods are required according to various apparel manufactures' characteristics.
The purpose of this study was to analyze fashion merchandising process, to apply customer information in merchandising process and to examine customer management strategies of fashion industry in on-line and off-line channel. In depth, face to face interviews with structured questionnaires were conducted with MD and customer managers from selected 4 brands, one from each categories of men's, women's, casual and sports wear. Key findings of the study were as follows: First, they followed fashion merchandising process of 18 steps and collected trend information and sales data were applied to planning, selling/promoting process to plan season concept, design, and promotion activity. Second, commonly applied customer information types in fashion merchandising process were all from indirect information collected from sales data and forecasting companies. However, casual and sports wear conducted consumer monitoring activity f3r collecting customer data directly from customer participation. Third, in off-line channel, customers are segmented by amount of purchase they make in a specific time period and all the categories show high interest in valuable customers. However, only men's and woman's wear conducted promotion activities for valuable customers as a differentiated marketing strategy. In on-line channel, companies were interacting with the customers through internet web site to determine their demands. In conclusion, this study has significance in that it propose the necessity and strategy of differentiated customer management approaching by analyzing and comparing fashion merchandising activity process cases.
Yang, Eui Young;Lee, Hoe Ryung;Park, Su Jin;Jeong, Ji Woon;Park, Hye In;Ha, Jisoo
한국의류산업학회지
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제23권1호
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pp.13-30
/
2021
The research expects that textual sources such as reading texts with additional information in the form of texts can be effective inspiration sources for fashion design ideation and development process. This research analyzes how efficiently textual sources work along with individual internal sources, such as sociocultural influence, design fixation, and during the design process. Six fashion design graduate students shared 2 inspirational experiences under 2 different studies (4 experiences in total); in addition, in-depth interviews were conducted based on individual design sketches. The result shows that textual sources provided a positive effect on all 6 participants with different intensities based on various backgrounds and individual tastes. This result demonstrates individual 'influence' (their sociocultural capital such as personal preferences, likings, habits, and past experiences) and 'inspiration' mutually work together to make an effect on fashion designers' ideation and development process for the design, sometimes one working more than the other (or vice versa), respectively. This paper makes important practical contributions by identifying and discussing the design behavior performed (especially in fashion design) by fashion design students during the design process with new sources of inspiration provided such as textual sources. The research revealed how textual sources can be an effective inspiration for fashion design students and provide insight to fashion design educators and professional fashion designers.
Following the PART I, which explored the concept of 'Fashion Goods' and 'Basic Goods' in terms of design elements and operational differences, this study, PART II, examined the differences in merchandising process of the two different types of goods. Merchandising process was divided into three stages; planning, production, and presentation. The study adopted a qualitative approach by use of eighteen in-depth interviews with merchandisers and designers with a minimum of six years and a maximum of 15 years of career experience in apparel industry. According to the type of goods, different merchandising practices were found. Especially material and production order/reorder practices were noteworthy. Fashion goods had high possibility of using high-quality materials sourced abroad and few of them were reordered. In other words, reorder practices were established for basic goods only; replenishment was actively implemented for higher inventory turn of basic goods; usually materials and production for basic goods were sourced domestically. In conclusion, based on the differences, more refined merchandising strategies of apparel companies and consistent theory building in this field are required for fashion and basic goods respectively.
Merchandiser continue to play an important role in the exchange process by providing products for consumption. Merchandisers must still understand customer demands, analyze sale trends, select and present salable products. However, due to the competitive pressures in the apparel industry and the innovations required under QR business systems, the demands placed on merchandisers are changing. The purpose of this study is to present of the direction for fashion merchandising education. The direction for fashion merchandising are education summarized as follows; 1) Merchandising technology is the systematic application of information technology and Telecomunications to planning, developing, and presenting product lines in ways that reflect social and cultural value. Statistic Methods are developed and used to analyze data arising from a wide variety of applications. 2) Merchandising technology is to practise the technical and economic aspects of apparel production. Analysis of specific apparel manufacturing and management issues such as efficient manufacturing methods. 3) Merchandising technology is to forecast fashion trend according to consumer preference. Culture influences what people purchase and how those items are used forecasting fashion trend. 4) Merchandising technology is to practise communication skills used in formal and informal organization including interviews in particular language suited to their own business and professionnal careers. 5) Merchandising technology is to planning merchandise budgets and merchandise assortments based on more diverse forms of information. 6) Merchandising technology is to use techniques related hardware and software. 7) Merchandising technology is to learn participate in internship programs.
In today's fashion industry, directions for new products and high value added of fashion goods, product changes according to cycles, the shortening of life cycles, added value, planned obsolescence, and presentation is focused on fashion trends that will be selected by many consumers at the point of selling time. Therefore fashion information poses great importance and its weight is growing bigger everyday. Fashion information recognized to be important is reflected practically in the prediction of fashion changes in the fashion industry; especially, it is the first stage of the merchandising process that is the course of new product development. Presently, with some differences according to the size and specialized area of a firm, domestic fashion menufacturers obtain information from sales data of competing brands and their own, market information, consumer information based on primary data, shared fashion trend information given by domestic fashion information providing companies. Firms can not produce differentiated images and product concepts using such shared information. Although the types, importance and reflection of used information vary according to merchandising processes, all experts engaging in the merchandising of fashion products use the same shared information.
The current fashion market is experiencing a lot of difficulties in fashion forecasting due to consumers' fast-changing lifestyle on fashion, changes in consumer behavior, and the segmentation of the fashion market. To cope with this harsh reality, many fashion enterprises have paid much attention to the SPA (Specialty Retailer's Store of Private Label Apparel) brand as a promising fashion marketing strategy in terms of which they can survive in the extremely competing fashion market. The SPA brand is in the stage of inception in Korea, but the SPA brands such as MUJI and UNIQLO are already dominating the fashion business in Japan. Korea has just started developing the SPA brand, but its technological development, which was triggered by the success of 'BASIC HOUSE', is rapidly evolving. Under these circumstances, the SPA brand is getting vital for the fashion market in efficiently realizing consumers' requirements, revolutionizing the method for providing product information and the process of Marketing Mix Program, and expressing the value of shop. This paper studies the nature of the SPA brand and fashion merchandising system, and in turn examine the differences between the visual merchandising of the existing fashion brands and the Japanese SPA brands that are used as the fashion marketing strategy which is driven by the up-to-date technological system. Centering around these issues, we propose a visual merchandising system for fashion enterprises which serves to develop Korean-style SPA brands.
An eco-CMF design process is vital to the sustainable development of fashion products concerning both emotional and physical quality factors, thus extending the use phase of the product life cycle. Life cycle assessment (LCA) is widely used in other fields to evaluate environmental impact; However, the method is rarely adopted in fashion. While cooperating with design, technology, and the users, reflecting the CMF design process is an excellent approach to the sustainable development of fashion products. Moreover, it is likely to evoke favorable reactions in users toward products. Therefore, this study aimed to review the sustainable design strategies associated with CMF in the fashion industry. Using a systematic review, 135 papers that met the inclusion criteria were examined from peer-reviewed journal articles published between 1990 and 2022. They contained specific design processes or tools relevant to eco-CMF design. The search used the Web of Science database. After a rigorous search, the final six peer-reviewed journal articles were selected and underwent thorough content reviews. Then, the CMF design tools and frameworks for eco-design featured in the articles were carefully reviewed and analyzed. Finally, we proposed practical guidelines for the sustainable development of eco-CMF design in the fashion industry. The study outcomes revealed the need for concrete eco-CMF design processes, particularly for fashion products. Furthermore, more active research involving eco-CMF design processes for the sustainable environmental impact of fashion products is required.
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