• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.204-216
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• 2015

Fashion is changing and evolving everyday with an influence from and over contemporary socio-cultural factors. Cartoons expressing the phenomena of times through exchanges of mutual effects with socio-cultural factors that result from functionality and media characteristics. This study examines how fashion provides a great correlation with society-culture expressed in cartoons. The research segment of this study was conducted with literature and case studies; in addition, the UK cartoon magazine "Punch" was selected for the case study. The research findings of the fashion satire expression in cartoon were divided into 2 cases. The first case is that fashion was used as an instrument to satirize socio-cultural phenomena in cartoons. Various fashion elements (hats, dresses, words on T-shirts) were used for satiric expressions and to express periodic images related to politics, economics, society and culture. It communicated factually or criticized noteworthy phenomenon or age changes through the symbolism of fashion. The second case is that fashion itself is the object of satire in a cartoon. It satirically described the blind following and destruction of stereotype as direct objects. Fashion satire appeared in cartoons regardless of a correlation with age. Each cartoon fashion satire had meaning in both humor and criticism for satirizing the age. This study shows that fashion symbolism for satire of the reality has been used as the instrument of expression and simultaneously expressed as the object of the critique as an image and phenomenon that reflects reality. This study has significance in that it examined expressive modes of fashion satire in cartoons that escape from separating fashion from cartoon as a different area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.111-127
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• 2016

The study aims to examine the forms of 'image expression' and utilization of model poses in fashion photos, and to delve into the characteristics and the intents that make certain model poses effective in expressing an image. The study used the fashion photos in the fashion magazine, Vogue, to analyze the different model poses used to express different images. The results are as follows. First, image expression forms in fashion photos were categorized into 'direct product suggestion expression form', 'sensual image expression form', 'sexual image expression form', 'story telling expression form', 'everyday situation expression form', and 'fantastic image expression form'. The different utilization types of model poses were categorized into 'type utilizing intangible elements', 'type utilizing complicated elements', 'type utilizing living organisms', 'type utilizing props', 'type utilizing clothes', 'type utilizing location', 'type utilizing accessories', and 'type utilizing products'. Second, the most common expression form for fashion photos used in advertisements was the 'direct product suggestion expression form', which was followed by the sensual image expression form. The most popular form used in the editorial fashion photos was the direct suggestion product expression form, which was followed by the story telling expression form. Third, the most common model pose type for direct product suggestion form was the 'type utilizing product'. Fourth, 'direct product suggestion expression form' was mostly used in editorial fashion photos. The most common utilization types of model poses were 'type utilizing clothes', 'type utilizing props', and 'type utilizing place'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.79-92
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• 2015

Covers of fashion magazines are part of the media that reflects the zeitgeist. Thus an analysis of the covers is a tool to probe the social and cultural changes of a period. This study attempts to shed light on the changes of the image of women on the cover of men's fashion magazines; this study intends to investigate the changes of status and role of women, from the past up to the present, through analyzing the meaning of the image of female models. For this purpose, this study conducts both literature and corroborative research. The period for the analysis is limited to post-1960s when female models began to appear alone on the cover of men's fashion magazine. The three decades from the 1960s through today have been analyzed according to its characteristics. The result is as follows: female models in the 1960s were shown as subjugated and ancillary to men as a commodity for the affluent materialistic civilization after World War II. In the 1970s, thanks to feminism movement, the image of resistance dominated. As a result of women's right movement, the 1980s came to witness the female image of subjective characteristics. Finally, starting in the 1990s, a mixture of subjugated, resistant, and subjective image of female models has appeared. In the contemporary culture, where the communication through images is being increased, the image of the female models in fashion magazines could work as a criterion to measure the social change.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.233-242
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• 1992

This study primarily concentrates on the Fashion Style of the New Generation which has come into being in 1980 with reference to the contents of the newspaper and magazine in 1950's. . The New Generation has undergone the social and cultural change under the effect of mass communication, mass consumption brought by the economic development, sports boom promoted during the period of Asian Games and Seoul Olympic Games and the adoption of the policy for the autonomous school uniform. In the process of the social and cultural change, they have the common peculiarity such as sensitivity, anthoritarianism and polarity and they have taken an important part in the development of the 'Young Fashion' The characteristics of their fashion styles are divided into three periods as follows; 1. The rising period (1980-1982): The most important pecuriality of the first step can be sum up to the following point. The free fashion style replaced the formal one such as T-shirt or casual wear comes into as a everyday dress. Moreover, many people become interested in the New Fashion which is gradually diversified and high-qualified. As a natural consequence, the lively interest of the people has brought into the appearance and competition of the New Brand in fashion industry 2. The growing period (1983-1986): Mannish Look, so-called 'New Fashion' gained the summit of the fashion and change over conservatively. However, 'Mannish Look' have great effect on the Fashion Style until now on. Specially in Korea, 'Punk Style'and 'Androgynous Look' can be an example among many. 3. The diversifying period (1987-1989): The Fashion Style has developed variously even though the Reactionism takes the lead as the main current of the Korean Fashion. Moreover, it is noticeable that man comes into the stage as a new fashion group and the fashion market begins to dear in various lines of goods with moderate and low prices. These various aspects can be regarded as diversification in the Fashion Style as the needs in the times and society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.599-614
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• 2017

With the increasing media representation of aging as negative and abnormal, anti-aging products and discourses are spreading to younger generations. This paper analyzes the anti-aging discourse in a fashion magazine targeted towards women in their 20s. It quantitatively analyzes the historical development of the antiaging industry and discourses from 1994 to 2014 in the magazine "$C{\acute{e}}ci$". It also analyzes the patterns of signification associated with aging in the magazine through the use of critical discourse analysis. This paper identifies five major discourses -"segmentation of the definitions of youthful appearance", "scientific and medical discourse", "self-care discourse", "prevention of aging", and "social values of youthful appearances". The paper finds that the construction of anti-aging discourses towards women in their 20s is heavily influenced by the close link between the anti-aging industry and the fashion media. It also confirms the ideology of self-development though a rigorous appearance-management that is strongly imposed on Korean women and subsequently reproduced in an anti-aging discourse towards women in their 20s.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.113-128
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to comparatively analyze advertisements of prestigious products and domestic fashion brands through fashion magazines. Especially, a comparative analysis of creative advertising strategies of prestigious products and fashion brands will be vital in establishing advertising strategies and marketing planning of domestic fashion brands. This study targeted and analyzed all the advertisements of prestigious fashion products and domestic career women's high-end casual brands printed in VOGUE KOREA and ELLE KOREA in 2005 and 2006. Descriptive statistics and x2-test were used. As a result of the analysis, prestigious product advertisements accounted for 197 (57.9%), and domestic fashion 143 (42.1%) out of a total of 764. Except for duplicates, the 340 advertisements analyzed, were selected for this study. Luxury fashion brand advertising accounted for more than domestic fashion brands in the magazines studied. That is luxury fashion brands have greater exposure to consumers. Based on the results drawn in this study for fashion products, various and unique advertising strategies utilizing visual factors that most effectively delivered to consumers are imminently needed as creative strategy measures in domestic fashion advertising.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.313-322
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• 2001

This study was designed to investigate actual conditions(the types and the personal physical job related factors) of fashion model in Korea. Survey was done through questionnaire data, 194 fashion models were involved survey. The data were analyzed by using frequency, cluster analysis. The results of this study were as follows : 1) The largest sample were as follows (about personal physical related factors) : unmarried, college graduate and undergraduate, resident in the Seoul, 2-24 yrs female with 175-177 cm, 52-54 kg, B-W-H (33-24-35 inch). 2) The largest sample (about job related factors) were as follows: getting private educational institution, 1-2 yrs job experience, B grade, less than 600,000 won for salaries, 100,000-190,000 won at a stage, 5-6 yrs duration of model work, inexperience in the international fashion stage, take up a foreign language, fashion magazine for fashion source, image and look of individuality for a necessary condition. The motive for job was the concern in the job. Problems with a guarantee were pointed out for the betterment working conditions. 3) The types of fashion model were classified into 4 types : the type of lack of professionalism, the type of show off one's talents, the type of dissatisfaction with working condition, the type of maturity of professionalism.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.1-12
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• 2011

As fashion magazines are important socialization influences, our purpose was to examine the content of articles in two teen magazines: one with a long publication history (Seventeen) and one relatively new market entry (Teen Vogue). We addressed the following questions: (1) What are the patterns of content of the feature articles? (2) How frequently is this content related to appearance management or fashion consumption? and (3) What, if any, differences exist in contents between the traditional teen magazine and the new market entry? A content analysis of 1,191 articles published during 2008 and 2009 revealed the largest percentage of content in both magazines was fashion. Other than the topic of fashion, Seventeen concentrated on teen life issues whereas Teen Vogue focused on celebrities. Understanding these are fashion publications, we suggest there are opportunities for both magazines to allocate further attention to other issues in the lives of teens in addition to beauty and consumption.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.1-21
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to typify femininity and masculinity represented in mainstream women's and men's fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and infer sexual ideology appearing in contemporary Korean society by content analysis with the view of plural sexuality. For the content analysis total 259 editorial fashion photography was analyzed. As the result, 5 femininities and 5 masculinities were typified, and then sexual discourse was inferred out of the frequency of each type and texts with the images. On the basis of previous studies and historical considerations of this topic, the types of sexuality represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 were classified as follow.: in women's fashion magazines Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity were almost similarily dominant sexuality, and Glamor Femininity, Babydoll Femininity, and Genderless sexuality were alternative. Meanwhile, in men's fashion magazines Traditional Masculinity formed clear dominant sexuality, and Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity, and Genderless sexuality were alternatives. In addition, Androgynous Masculinity in women's fashion magazines occupied the highest frequency, while Glamor Femininity in men's fashion magazines did so. From this sexual discourses represented in mainstream fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 are as follow.: First, mainstream fashion in Korea sticks to the modern values preserving traditional sexual ideology even in this postmodern period of the former 21C. Second, Androgynous Femininity as another dominant femininity with Traditional Femininity connotes the change of conception of femininity in Korean society. Third, Androgynous Masculinity to females is preferred, while femininity to males is still regarded as fetish or adorned object. Fourth, the appearance of various alternative sexualities leads to pluralization of sexuality, and then fashion gradually codifies youthfulness and feminine values, such as body and sexual desire more than before.