• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.778-792
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• 2003

This study is to review, in the social and cultural context, the main causes for the sportism that prevails in modern fashion, and to analyze the typical expressions in the domestic fashion. Many factors attribute to the advent of sportism such as rapid development and cultural changes toward sports, increase in leisure time and abundant opportunities, new fashion materials resulting from new technologies, emerging youth culture and increasing preference for such culture, and the postmodernism. With this background, sportism, which has been appearing in the domestic fashion, falls into 5 categories as follows based on the type of its expression. “Urban Street Sportism” is affected by the new sports culture of urban young people, which is characterized such that body line is disregarded with over-sized garment in layered style without considering T.P.O. concept. “Romantic Sportism” applies colors, fabrics and details of romantic images to sporty items, or culminates the feminine and elegant sportism by using the sporty fabrics and details along with romantic items. “Vintage Sportism” is characterized by its well-refined, high quality expression of naturally worn for long time, which is affected by the postmodernism. “Urban Utility Sportism,” which is developed with such design factors as fabrics, styles, details and colors with emphasis on their utility and functionality, explicitly accommodates the changed modern life styles particularly in urban areas. Lastly, the military image, which was developed during the Iraq War along with simultaneous anti-war activities, and the peace messages, which deliver the mankind's hope for the world peace and social wellness, formulate the “Military Sportism”.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.694-703
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• 2013

A variable dress design can be an alternative to satisfy a consumer need for diverse expression and self-realization at a lower cost factor. In the area of wedding dress, the change in the trend of wedding culture (which tends to demand more units of wedding dress) makes the cost factor more important in the purchase selection. A variable design has a clear advantage for wedding dresses and the wedding industry. This is the first research on a variable design that focuses on wedding dresses. This research develops a variable wedding design which respects consumer preferences independent of a variable wedding dress design that presents a new shape of silhouette or the development ofa new wedding dress materials. A survey on the supply side was conducted to examine market preferences by first browsing the Naver portal site and then checking the websites of major wedding dress suppliers. A questionnaire survey was conducted with a sample of 348 brides-to-be that inquired on wedding dress selection factors and purchase patterns. The survey shows that consumers prefer mermaid and A-line silhouettes, silk material, white-ivory color, and tube top necklines. The result conforms to the types commonly found in the designs of suppliers. We apply a detachable design to a basic mermaid silhouette and implemented change for 7 kinds of styles -based on the result of the survey. We suggest a variable wedding dress design as a new means to solve the cost concern and the customer need for diverse expression. The research represents a new life style for wedding culture and facilitates the development of the wedding industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.111-130
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to illuminate eroticism represented din modern fashion. Art based on sex is very important like all of the other cultural values. But we feel that erotic art, neglected, suppressed , and persecuted for centuries, has an important contribution to make to the understanding of art, the social history of mankind, and human happiness and progress. It is our deep personal conviction that erotic art serves important social and therapeutic functions. Erotic art expresses the demand for sexual freedom-a freedom vital to individual happiness and mental well-being, And sexual freedom, in turn, cannot exist without a high degree of political and economic freedom as well. In that sense , erotic art came a truly revolutionaly message ; it demands no less than extension of freedom , not only in the sexual are, but in every sphere of social life. What is eroticism \ulcorner Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction . Eroticism is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth, religion , customes and art. It also has a close relationship with psychological activities of our life. Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization. Eroticism is related to different kinds of art, which express internal spirit of human especially Surrealism. Surrealism is above all a movement of the conquest and deepening of the unconscious. The exploitation of Freud's discoveries opended a new, practically unlimited path for artistic studies to Surrealism . Especially all theory of mental psychoanalysis a affected artists greatly in western art, Freud was appraised highly on his achievements by art critics in art history on his achievements by art critics in art history. As far as erotic subject matter was concerned, Surrealism provided a means of presentig it. Pop Art is not actually a movement , born at a specific time and place, nor is it an easy concept to define. The term first appeared in Great Britain during the fifties, when it referred, particularly in the decorative arts, to an inclination to go back and imitate the stereotyped images of the mass media : film, advertising , cartoons, and other popular consumer products. The eroticism expressed in Pop Art calls the modern's attentions to their devastated minds, taking advantage of the commercialized sex. Fashion has developed constantly reflecting the spiritual aspiration and social and cultural phenomona of man , and artistic steam. Eroticism in fashion is the style which expresses the internal meanings of sexuality through the texture, color, pattern , silhouette etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.176-187
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• 2007

Buddhist paintings in the late Joseon dynasty are characterized by diversification and subdivision of subject matters. Buddhist paintings rapidly declined since 19th century, being miniaturized and showing complicated composition. Figures that identified the shape of shoes in Buddhist paintings of late Joseon dynasty included sacheonwang that were placed in the left and right bottom of Buddhist paintings, sinjung, gwiwang and pan-gwan of siwangtaeng. Sacheonwang, an Indian folk god, was depicted as a noble person in "ahamgyeong", an early sutra, but was depicted as an armored warrior in Mahayana Buddhism world. The style of shoes sacheonwang in Korea were different depending on the times. The shoes of the sacheonwang sculpture in Seogguram of Shilla dynasty are sandal type. The sacheonwang that was drawn on Jijangbosaldo in Goryeo dynasty wears non-showy armor and red yi(履). The sacheonwang that was expressed on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty wears showy armor and decorated hwa. Comparing the yi of Goryeo Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang with the yi of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo, Jijangbosaldo sacheonwang's shoes are Korean style in which the sole is flat and the front part has no decoration, but in the shoes of Bodhisattva on the Dunhuang yeolbanbyeonsangdo the sole is not flat, the front part is lifted. The style of shoes of pan-gwan, who is depicted on Siwangtaeng, is hwa. However, unlike the decorative hwa of sacheonwang, its front is not lifted and it has no decoration. It is assumed that the shoes of sacheonwang or pan-gwan represented obangsaek based on the idea of eumyang-ohaeng. Depiction of shoes shown in Buddhist paintings reflected the phases of the social life. In addition, the sandals of Shilla sacheonwang implies that sourthern culture in addition to Buddhism was introduced. Having expressed the shoes of Goryeo sacheonwang with conventional yi implies that Buddhism governed the inner world of the people, and the shape and material of the shoes reveals aristocracy. It is assumed that that an armored warrior wore yi, not hwa implies that the then society was stable. Also, it is assumed that that the shoes of sacheonwang on Buddhist paintings in Joseon dynasty were hwa implies that the role of tutelary god was stressed in the disordered society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.192-205
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• 2017

Modern men are much more interested in their appearance than ever before, as well as showing an increased need for uniqueness in order to construct their own sphere and pursue differentiation from others. Besides, changes in life style and the aesthetic sense are causing men to pursue various kinds of clothing benefits so that they want a suit with characteristics beyond the stereotyped design and style. They have started to be actively engaged in clothing purchases, forming a driving force for the growth of the male suit market. Hence, this study has significance in that it offers data conducive to consumers' custom suit purchase by reviewing data on the present condition of the custom suit market and bespoke suits. In addition, it aims to give a summary on the theoretical bases of preceding studies, including the need for uniqueness, pursuit of clothing benefit and concern for the appearance of male consumers, as well as examining the factors that influence on their bespoke suit purchase intentions. Accordingly, this work intends to construct a basic environment for consumers to approach the custom suit market easily and pave the way for male suit markets through offering marketing data and information that is helpful for custom suit-related markets.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.10-21
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• 2018

Kushan dynasty was located in the middle of Silkroad, from the 1st century BC to the second century AD, where it negotiated with various races. Therefore, the culture of the Kushan has multi cultural elements. The purpose of this study is to understand the life of the ancient Silkroad by accessing this characteristic culture of the Kushan through costume analysis. And the results of this study will be used as a basic data for studying the relationship between Korean ancient costumes and Silkroad costume type. As a research method, literature survey and artifacts analysis were performed in parallel. The results of this study are as follows: The basic type of the Kushan costume was a typical nomadic ethnic type with a long tunic and trousers. Tunic was fastened with a belt and straps at the waist, and the lower part of the belt was wider like a skirt. The tunic was divided into two types: open front and closed front. Because Kushan was originally a nomadic people who lived in Central Asia, the nomadic elements of Central Asia remained unchanged in the early costumes of the Kushan, but over time the details of the costumes changed according to the surrounding political situation. When Kushan negotiated with Parthia, the parthian coat was worn by the influence of them. After occupying Greco Bactria, accepting the Greek culture of Bactria, Kushan's costume was supplemented by the external costume element of drapery, which changed the style of the nomadic costume into a elegant style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.400-410
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• 2017

Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world's top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the 'Phantom of the Opera' regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical 'Miss Saigon', which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, 'Les Miserables' shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people's costume and aristocrat's costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.5-22
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• 1996

the present thesis aims to contribute to the further development of the men's wear indus-try in Korea which now confronts the need to adjust itself more actively to the conditions of the coming age of internationalization and free trade. To achieve this this thesis suggests the trade should provide for the changing domestic needs on theone hand and refine its wares as high value-added products in compe-tition with those from the advanced countries in fashion industry on the other, The history of the 'suit' the standard men's attire dates back to 1850 when the 'Ditto suit' was introduced composed of coat waist coat vest and trousers to remain virtually unchanged till the end of the nineteenth cen-tury and the modern men's wear originated in Britain. In Korea since the introduction of western clothes from 1876 custom-made suits had been dominant until 1944 while western clothes earned popular currency between 1945 and 1964 and ready-made suits began to spread with their advantages recognized in terms of practicality convenience and functionality The next phase from 1965 to 1985 witnessed the establishment of a number of ready-made brands although custom-made suits stayed in their height of prosperity until 1975. The turn-ing point for the men's wear industry came in 1975 when high-calss ready-made brands be-gan to turn up with the arrival of large companies in the market matching the change in consumers' life style. The men's wear market went through further diversification and specialization dur-ing the years between 1985. and 1990. Around the year 1990 however the expansion of the business suit industry came to slow down ac-companied by an oversupplied market. The fashion of pragmatism in the 1990s called for the growth of the casual wear department and as consumers' life style became more and more individualized conscious dressing in accord ance with T.P.O established itself as an important branch of culture, Such casual boom is likely to aid in promoting Korea's men's wear indus-try to peer with that of advanced countries. Consumers' fashion sense is now ahead of the trade's as well as being shortcycled highly individualized stylized and diversified. To meet consumers' demands under such circum-stances each company is required to develop its unique soft Know How based on accurate information and strategically specialized plan-ning. The trade should convert its hithero producer-oriented strategy to a new consumer oriented one and actively lead the needs and purchasin g pattern of consumers by providing an efficient and reasonable price policy with optimum supply of merchandise and also by presenting 'our' trend suited to our circum-stances.