• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.71-82
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to correctly understand the costume of Qing dynasty in the court painting. The starting point of this study was that the painting typically reflects the cultural values, social significations, costume and aesthetic outlook of that period when the paintings were done. Based on this regard, this study analyzed the costume of figure paintings in the court painting of the Qing dynasty that complied and edited by the Palace Museum. The court dress of Qing dynasty represented not only the spiritual world of Manchu tribes but also the influences of Chinese traditional culture. The court dresses of Kangxi and Qianloug showed definitely the luxury of life of Qing court. The everyday dress of Qing dynasty reflected the nomadic environments and it was very simple. The hunting dress of Qing dynasty was very developed and also represented horse riding and hunting activities of their traditional life. The ladies of Qing dynasty enjoyed to dress the costume of old Chinese style. The appearance of noble women was fragile and slim.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.38
• /
• pp.51-72
• /
• 1998

Futurists objected the existent style, that is the conventional fashion, and took part in these disciplines of fashion to make clothes the instruments being able to represent the individuality. Giacomo Balla and fortunato Depero, pain-ters who in 1915 were to work with Diaghilev's company, were the first to see clothing as a dynamic interfaced between th body and the atmosphere, between physical gestures and the urban context, which could be translated into encounters between forms and colours, volumes and architecture. For them, clothing began to exist as an object and an event, something to be removed from a mainly static conception and made mobile, active. The interaction between movement and clothing was based on the relativity of perception : the appearance and disappearance of the body produced points without dimension or duration which served, as Balla wrote in the Futurist Mnaifesto of Men's Clothing to“renew incessantly the enjoyment and impetuous movement of the body”. The historical achievement in the effort for the reformation of Futurist, Art to Wear. First, for Futurist, clothing is removed from a static conception and focused on dynamics. Second, Balla used asymmetry in men's clothing. Moreover he supposed dynamic men's clothes by using optical intersection. Third, the after image of Chronophotograph represented rapidity. This rhythmic expression is the fore-runner in Optical and Kinetic Art of Visual Art. Fourth, Futurist emphasized flexibility in fashion. They aimed to create‘Clothing Machines’whose parts would interact to aceelerate the real and virtual, inner and outer movement of the human being. Fifth, the variety and short life of cutting skills and colors are focused and‘Fast Substance’in fashion is admitted by Futurists. Futurist concern with clothing was not lim-ited its appearance in terms of cut and colour. What important was also the way it appeared and disappeared according to fashion. It was a“fast substance”, able to reflect rapid, sudden changes of social and aesthetic taste. To reach to the aim of internationalization, Gesamtkunstwerk in our Art to Wear, it is extremely meaningful to examine art fashion which is created under the conception of Gesamtkunstwerk production of avang garde artist in the early 20th century and look at formative conscious of truth, goodess and beauty synthetically which they faced on their works of art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.33
• /
• pp.189-199
• /
• 1997

The following contents are the results from the examination of unisex fetishism minimal and active which are Mods look. Unisex-becasue of the changing in musician and the role of sex Mods girl adopted much from men's clothing. The unisex mods look expressed in the 1990s is not the expression confronting the estab-lished value and the confusion of sex as it did in the '60s but possibly the appearance of a fashion trend. Fetishism-in the '60s the Mods look changed mens clothing into more wonman-like clothing which expressed their internal and external values of thinking. this fetishism phenomenon is also strongly expressed among the in the 1990s. This gives a future-orientid feeling by expressing with a modern sense the 60's fetish dress which used woman-like silhouettes bright and stretch fabric colorful and vivid tone. Minimal-The 60's Mods put on mini skirts called the revolution of length as a mode of re-sistance and mininmal dress as a way of ex-pressing the liberation of body and the con-sciousness of beauty. Minimal is reflected well on slim and fit jackets and pants and short and fit pants etc. mods look in the '90s also consists of the general trend of slim and fit silhouette. Active-Mods that reject the value of estab-lished generation in the 60s showed a sporty and casual trend on fashion. Mods works around clubs wore polo shirts and cadigan and Mods enjoys scooter often wore anorak parkas This active style of Mods approched to the young' casual with freshness expressing newly in the '90s polo shirts took a seat as an item of street fashion especially in the beginning of 1996. Mods in the 1960s shows well a fashion flow of the age as a street fashion which expresses the mental world reflected in politics econo-mics society and culture within the people of the age. These Mods looks revived in the early 1990's awaken an importance of the culture of the young as the cultural qualities included in Mods of the past life and this fashion trend expected to take a part as a symbol of fashion culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.6
• /
• pp.98-115
• /
• 1999

As sports infiltrates each field of modern society and becomes familiar, sports wear was changed functionally and was introduced and enveloped into everyday dress. Modern sports wear has been the settled in everyday life deeply and become the clothes of life which are worn regardless of place, time and age. The aim of this paper was to clarify what kind of fashion of sports style would be given to the modern people. In this study, sports wear which has become everyday dress classified from a gender point of view. It was divided into masculine image, feminine image, and neutral image. Sports wear of masculine image generated a silhouette which emphasized the shoulder with the aspiration for youth and health. Wide shoulder was considered as the symbol of masculine beauty and the expression of healthy beauty. It was reflected well in body conscious look. And owing to the development of up-to-data materials, innovation of design, and the study of human body technology, the functional character was settled in the sports wear which showed masculine image. Sports wear of feminine image was represented fashion of body exposure, body feet with body conscious look, and romantic mode. This image was expressed fashion as comforts, pleasant, active design, materials, color, and romantic feminine beauty. Sports wear of neutral image was expressed into unisex clothes. This cloths have no difference in gender, age, and class. It was used as casual sports wear. In the 1960s, young generation participated in such street sports as street basketball and skate. They usually sore the sports wears of neutral image such as cycling, skating, and ski. In the materials of sports, the development of up-to-data material like lycra made the sayings lifelike, “up-to-data material is the second skin” It show that glamorous feminine image and strong masculine image coexisted. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for sports found in such places like tennis court or swimming pool. Now, the sports wear become more like casual activity wear all classes of people can enjoy in their life regardless of where they are, when they wear, and even how old they are.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.4 no.2
• /
• pp.181-196
• /
• 2002

The functions of the clothing have been changed rapidly in modern society. That means people want to show oneself strongly by the clothing. In other words, the social aspect of the clothing's function which is the expression of own's personality and satisfaction one's desire is emphasized. This study is aimed at taking a look at the functions of modern clothing. The modern clothing has the various functions which are related to the changing of the social system. The result of the study are as follows: With the differentiation of society and institutionalization, the clothing is recognized as the medium which shows one's status and is restricted by people. In modern society as mass society, the system of the social position collapsed. People has the inclination to express own's consciousness, personality and existence intensely. Also, the functions of clothing became diverse. That means the clothing is influenced by the human's consciousness, a sense of values and became the medium which reflects the people's life. This change of the costume means the clothing focus on the functional factor of the free-style clothing getting out of rational value. Therefore, the change of clothing is not the change of the design but the change of value of the clothing, one's way of thinking about the clothing, the change of human life in whole society and the culture. With the changing way of life, the change of the clothing has the system in which the design changes. Therefore, I found that the we have to take a look not the change of the factors which influence the fashion but the functions of the clothing itself.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.24-34
• /
• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.487-497
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was performed 1) to study the differences in advertisement expression and brand preference according to the lifestyle groups of high school girl students(Sports Uninterest Group, Friend Preference/Fashion Uninterest Group, Sports Preference/Horne Oriented Group. fashion Interest Group, and Confidence Group) and 2) to investigate the effects on the brand preference of adolescents of lifestyle, brand and advertisement image and advertisement expression forms. The subjects selected for the final analysis were high school girl students living in Pusan, Seoul and Taejeon, Korea. The statistics used for data analysis were factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, stepwise multiple regression, frequency distribution and percentage by the SPSS program. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The preferences of advertising expression forms were significantly different among lifestyle groups: the Friend Preference/Fashion Uninterest Group preferred to sex appealing advertising expression form less than other groups. 2. The brand preferences were significantly different among lifestyle groups: the Confidence Group preferred brand less than other groups in general. 3. The brand preferences were affected by life style, brand and advertising image and preferences of advertising expression forms. And brand image influenced most significantly on the brand preferences.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.65-71
• /
• 2007

This research is to explore relationship between the underwear shopping value and purchasing behaviors, as well as to figure out how the underwear store VM information has influence on consumers' purchase behaviors. Focus is placed on subdividing consumers into different groups according to underwear shopping value, and then verify whether VM information influences the consumer groups differently or not. This study, based on systematic understanding of an underwear consumption, will provide strategic suggestion to establish effective VM information of the underwear brand. The results of this study show that VM information is being utilized by the important clue when the consumers go shopping underwear. That's why the underwear brands should concentrate on developing VM by causing an interest and purchasing of consumers through corresponding with store's individuality and image. Also, the manner of performance should be related to brand image and theme reflected consumer's life style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.159-175
• /
• 1999

In literature, a description of costume represents an individual's characteristics when the object is an individual. If the literary object is a certain group in a certain region, it would play an important role in representing the culture of time. It clearly shows that aesthetic consciousness of Hyo-Suk Lee who had accepted the western dandyism was well expressed in his literary works. Hyo-Suk has been unique in describing life-styles such as beauty of costume, art-for-art's sake, and leisure activities, and color imagery in his works. The color and the style of the costume show us the mental state of the wearer. They also affect the emotional states of other people. Hyo-Suk's "Pollen(화분)" and "Byukongmuhan(벽공무한)" confirm the fact that the mentality of the people can be hinted through the description of costume. They also ascertain that the color imagery retained by a special color can be altered by different circumstances and settings. Hyo-Suk applies in his works the effect of vivid color contrast, which newly appeared in Fauvism, to the description of costume. In consequence, he reflects the color aesthetics of Modern Art in which the fine art has an effect on the applied art.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.149-163
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate and analyze the actual conditions of consumer damage occuring in the use of clothing products. The data used for analysis included 470 cases, which were deliberated by requesting consumer disputes deliberation at the consumer consultation room of Masan YWCA at the Kyeongsangnamdo Consumer Life Center belonging to the Kyeongnam provincial office. The disputes regarding the clothing products insisted that consumers suffered damage for the period from March, 2011 to June, 2013. The data processing was carried out by SPSS 14 and the statistics techniques used went through a cross tabulation analysis and ${\chi}^2$-test. The results are as follows. The difference in the analysis result of purchase path and material as to kinds of clothing products showed a significant difference. The damage types of clothing products were classified into five types: change of color, change of style, change of surface and touch, breakage of subsidiary materials, and others. The damaged clothing products showed a difference for damage frequency according to the items of clothing products; in particular, damage frequency for change of color appeared high. The damage contents of change of color were identified as metachromatism, discoloration and yellowing, stain occurrence, and decolorization. The damage responsibility for these clothing products appeared to be various as to clothing items, but was higher at dry cleaners and manufacturers.