• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to research the symbolistic values of western beards' style in the twentieth century. Namely, it is to consider the relationship between social-cultural factors and aesthetic meanings of western beards' style. The contents are, firstly, studying the conception and the types of beard. A beard is the hair that grows on a person's chin, cheeks, neck, and the area above the upper lip. At the World Beard & Moustache Championships, there are moustache category (natural, english, hungarian, dali, fu manchu, freestyle), beard category (natural, musketeer, goatee, sideburns, freestyle), and full beard category (natural, garibaldi, verdi, van dyck, freestyle), Secondly, this paper is continued by researching the history of beard from the ancient to the present day, and thirdly, analyzing political dictatorship, social resistance and expression of personality, religious dignity, related with the change of world situation, the formation of postmodern anti-culture and pop-culture, and the coexistence of traditional culture. There are long and bushy full beards in some religions like Hinduism, Judaism and Islam. The meanings of their beards are purity, life and holiness. The beards of some politicians symbolize dictatorship. Namely, the chaplin of Hitler, the moustache of Hussein and the musketeer of Castro express strong power and charisma. In 1950s'-70s' subcultures, Hipsters' goatee, Bikers' horseshoe, Beat generations' goatee and Hippies' natural represent the lack of adaptability and social resistance. Also, the celebrities and artists like Ronald Colman, Clark Gable, Don Johnson, George Clooney, and Salvador Dali express freedom, personality, and taste with beards. For that matter, the symbolistic values of beards' style in the twentieth century are the religious dignity, the political dictatorship, the social resistance and the expression of personality. Today the beards' style is one of fashion items as well as a symbol of masculinity, customs and classes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.68-77
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• 2012

Hair style takes a large part in emphasizing to the appearance and the effect of image transformation with fashion to the modern people whose competition is appearance in 21 century. According to the development of mass media and the exchange of the life style. Image creation which correspond to T.P.O is needed and style-up is also required in modern costume, as the coordination for special day is routinized. In this study, the expression of a fine and organic line shown as a motive in Art Nouveau style's works is applied to style-up design and a new view sight to the style-up design through the art history is suggested with developing style-up design to satisfy the upgraded customer's requirements. The feminine beauty is appeared as a various image by applying style-up design from Art Nouveau style through this study. and the infinite possibility to the design development can be found with activated motive of Art Nouveau. These Art Nouveau trend will be a foundation to the inspiration of high artistic design and will be helpful to the aesthetic satisfaction of the elegance modern people. Therefore, I hope this study will be a fundamental data for creative development of hair design through the art history which may be forgetting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.18-32
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.38-38
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• 2003

Costumes has changed according to its historical background, social conditions and life style for that particular age. The same is true of our clothing. Many changes are found in them based on our ancestral knowledge in an effort to apply better conveniences and more sophisticated clothing culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.634-645
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to develop cruise look design inspired by the ocean life motif using by computer CAD system. Domestic and international brands were selected for this study researching cruise line collection. A variety of literature and online site for concept of cruise look and sustainable design was studied. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for cruise look design through analysis of 07/08 S/S trend. The diffusion of cruise look reflects a societal trend to be changed life pattern. The results of this study are as below. First, as this society has become modernized with advancement of technology, people have been increasingly interested in the pursuit of happiness and the concept of 'quality of life', thereby creating a new trend of consumption culture. As a result, fashion market place changed targeting sensible and self-enrichment customers. Second, as combining rapid technological innovation and mass production, industrial design caused environmental pollution and the problems are being worsen. Fashion design has same problems and led to eco-friendly design by the large. Third, as the change of style influenced by economic and social condition, cruise look re-defined and became more common. The change of various fields led to fashion market place should be changed. The cruise look design using computer program will give more benefits to many designers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.777-792
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• 2018

As social media has become a part of daily life, new types of online opinion leaders are emerging, and in turn, changes in traditional fashion leaders and leadership are expected. Considering such changes, this study attempted to reexamine fashion leader types and influence characteristics from the perspective of college students as fashion followers. Students were asked to write an essay identifying their fashion leader and how and why they were influenced by him or her. Sixty essays entitled "My Fashion Leader" were collected and content-analyzed. A total of 78 fashion leaders were identified and categorized into four types including celebrities, social media influencers, friends/family/acquaintances, and people seen on the street in order of frequency. Influence characteristics of the identified fashion leaders included superiority, role model, similarity, and familiarity. Similarity was observed across all types of fashion leaders, while superiority and familiarity were identified for celebrities and friends/family/acquaintances, respectively. The results imply that celebrities, mostly those from the TV, movie, and music industries, are still important as fashion leaders in society regardless of their communication style, while friends/family/acquaintances as opinion leaders within a consumer group are important to provide information, advice, and help. However, social media influencers between the two groups are expanding the influence.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.20-30
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• 2006

Aprons are popularly used among women for domestic work. They also protect clothes from filth and at the same time become an ornamentation for fashion. Despite their important use at homes and restaurants, beauty parlors, and hotels, little study has been done on aprons. Commercialized aprons do not come in various forms, rather they use the same simple shape with different patterns. There has been no independent study done on aprons, however aprons have been studied as a part of uniform studies in the dining industry by Park and Na(2003) and uniform studies in the airline industry by Lee(2001) and Chung(2001). In this study, the author looked into aprons in accordance to the change of housing space and life style. Not only to be worn in the kitchen, but also to greet guests or for a walk in the neighborhood, the apron needs to have various functions and a trendy fashion. Designs to persue personality and high quality along with functionality and esthetical beauty were developed to present various functions of the apron.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.143-152
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• 2005

Stepping in the 1990s, we has lived under the time of co-existence of diverse culture as well as faced the diffusion of pop-culture. The border between subculture style and hi-fashion has been blurred since beginning of 1990s. By this reason, recognizing the power of influence and importance of subculture style, we will try to provide the comprehensive vision reflecting the cultural background to analyze the subculture style. We will conclude this article with discussing the club-culture which is settle as one type of culture. Enjoying the club-culture, clubber tries to escape from the structural estrangement putting by the magical and symbolic meaning through creating their own style, and endowing their life the meaning. They make liquid club wear targeting at general young culture, pop culture, and subculture as well as hippies, Mods, funk. The Club wear around University sort out Hiphop Style, Casual Style, Mix and Match style. As at the club the hiphop music was played, the hiphop style dress becomes the club ware. Especially, training style clothes which is easy to dance has become the everyday dress, not just restricted in the indoor dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 2003

The primary goal of this study is to define the future image of modern fashion. By review of many references, this study has examined predictable future in common, various researches on future, and futurism that appeared from art history. This study has also identified the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion as well. The purpose of this study is defined as future image of modern fashion. First of all. through a large literature, this study is to examine general future and the study of future, to investigate futurism appears from art history. and to identify the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion. The main results of this study include : 1) General future means forthcoming sometime or a state of life at that time, and future is not drawing near naturally in accordance with the passage of time. The future is developed according as which the owners of time have independent meaning and what they select. 2) The futurism had started with the background based on Darwins and Einsteins scientific theories and Bergsons and Nietzsches philosophical thoughts, which was then established by Marinettis Futurism Statement and Dynamism Theory of Umberto Boccionio, Giaomo Balla, Luigi Russolo and Gino Severini. As the purpose of futurism is to represent the dynamism of machinery and the beauty of speed, it has been developed toward op art and kinetic art including video art, laser art, and holography. 3) Fashion style and trend of futurism from the beginning of 20th century up to now can be defined as follows : Firstly futurism fashion represented by loud colors and geometric pattern appeared from 1910s to 1930s in the first place. Secondly, or art fashion and kinetic fashion appeared in 1960s due to the influence of op art and kinetic art which were developmental arts of futurism paintings. Space Look and Cosmo Corps Look that were designed by Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin, Rudi Gernreich and Paco Rabanne, were also the trend of future image fashion. Thirdly, various materials and techniques developed this future image fashion in 1980s, and Glitter Look and Collage Look were its representative style. Fourthly, in 1990s, human beings dreamed the freedom of mind by human-oriented thought. and created the ecology of new concept mixed with technology due to anxiety on environmental destruction. which influenced on the advent of Zen style.